Soundcard Previously Asked Questions

[Just A Jedi]

Hi all,
I hope I'm posting this in the right section of the forum.

I'll probably go with a Nano 4 for my saber. I'm almost positive these questions have been asked and answered somewhere before, but I'm having trouble finding the right posts. If anyone can answer or even link to right post I'd appreciate it.

- I've seen posts were builders talk about needing a PEX for a Nano 4, but the Nano page on the TCSS site says there's a built in PEX. Is a PEX only required if I want to with a R/G/B or R/G/Rb LED? What if I just want to go B/B/W?
- Since I'm not electronically proficient, I'm strongly considering going with the MWS (pre-wired) Nano 4. Again, if I go with a B/B/W is there any feature the board can't use based on the MWS wiring? The only thing I see right off is no LED switch...
- The Prizm is first/cheapest card to offer blaster block, correct? It reads very similar to the Petit Crouton (and is called a variant Petit). Is there a significant difference between the two other than the single battery?
- Does the Prizm drain a battery "too quickly"?

Thank you!

[Tom Tilmon]

You don't need a power extender for B/B/W. Blues go to L Pad, white goes to FOC Pad. No power extender needed. My Graflex with NBIV was wired this way, and I used a B/B/W LED on main blade. I also had a crystal chamber LED wired in parallel with main blade. All is well on my saber, and it works killer.

don't know anything about MWS wiring, I solder. Consider learning soldering, its easy.

prism is the cheapest of the Plecter Boards to offer blaster block, I believe that is correct.

Prism doesn't drain battery any quicker than any other board, its the Main LED that eats power, that and the speaker. Accent LED's and the board eat almost no power comparatively.

Tom

[Just A Jedi]

You don't need a power extender for B/B/W. Blues go to L Pad, white goes to FOC Pad. No power extender needed. My Graflex with NBIV was wired this way, and I used a B/B/W LED on main blade. I also had a crystal chamber LED wired in parallel with main blade. All is well on my saber, and it works killer.

don't know anything about MWS wiring, I solder. Consider learning soldering, its easy.

prism is the cheapest of the Plecter Boards to offer blaster block, I believe that is correct.

Prism doesn't drain battery any quicker than any other board, its the Main LED that eats power, that and the speaker. Accent LED's and the board eat almost no power comparatively.

Tom

Thank you for the info and the tips. I guess I'm just concerned that I'll wreck a "fairly" expensive part of my saber. I have a friend with a soldering gun, but it's not a smaller ESB style.

[Tom Tilmon]

You will need to combine the blue LED wires, after you resistor them before putting them on L pad. Not sure how to do that without soldering. That is where that pre-wired stuff can be harder than soldering. Its definitely an easy skill to learn with some practice on wires. A good iron is fairly cheap, as well as solder and shrink.

Blue LED-L
Blue LED-L
White LED-FOC