Aryk Ky'Ratsu
03-14-2007, 12:51 AM
Hi all,
I've been lurking/reading for awhile to get up to speed. But since I have *ZERO* electronics/wiring knowledge, I joined tonight so I could post. I'd be grateful if some of the Jedi Masters here could confirm I've got this plan down OK from the wiring & power angles:
4-AAA batt pack (no room for inline AA),
2 switches (SPST & SPDT),
royal blue Luxeon III star LED,
Corbin board for LED,
Hasbro sound board from Obi-Wan saber with motor/FOC (no motion),
Corbin-style blade with MHS hilt.
I'm using the wiring diagram from xwing's post at the bottom of this page:
http://thecustomsa.web133.discountasp.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=187
Now the questions:
1) Just confirming: the red wire switch is a SPST momentary for the C/L-shimmer feature, and the blue wire switch is a SPDT momentary for on/off. So you have to hold the C/L switch, then press the on/off switch to get the saber to light or turn off, b/c otherwise it's an open circuit, right?
2) I don't understand why the boards "get out of sync" like GFORCE13 says. Is this problem really that noticeable/frequent? I haven't heard of it happening with the CB in combo with an MR FX board (yet...still reading). I sure don't want a 3rd switch as a master reset...I think I'd just turn it off then on again to re-sync them if it isn't frequent.
3) Xwing said the motor output on the Obi-Wan s/b would be good to use for Corbin's C&L feature. So can I manually trigger the C/L by connecting the 2nd switch in place of the motor *without* connecting directly to the CB like in the diagram? For some reason I thought C/L wouldn't work if not connected directly to the board, but I guess it shouldn't matter since it's already in the circuit?
4) To resist or not to resist...some say you do NOT need a resistor when using a CB/Hasbro combo, yet others generally say their Hasbros get fried easily. I don't want to take the chance and fry my board. I also read in 1 place that you need a 2.2ohm 5w resistor to keep it from frying, another post said 2.2 ohm, 4.3w. If it's needed, which is correct (TCSS store only has the 5w), and where would it go in the circuit...between the + battery end and the Hasbro board in the above diagram? The LED will still have enough power?
All help is very appreciated.
OK...flame-throwers...on!...ready!...A-I-M-at-the-nooooob....
Eric
I've been lurking/reading for awhile to get up to speed. But since I have *ZERO* electronics/wiring knowledge, I joined tonight so I could post. I'd be grateful if some of the Jedi Masters here could confirm I've got this plan down OK from the wiring & power angles:
4-AAA batt pack (no room for inline AA),
2 switches (SPST & SPDT),
royal blue Luxeon III star LED,
Corbin board for LED,
Hasbro sound board from Obi-Wan saber with motor/FOC (no motion),
Corbin-style blade with MHS hilt.
I'm using the wiring diagram from xwing's post at the bottom of this page:
http://thecustomsa.web133.discountasp.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=187
Now the questions:
1) Just confirming: the red wire switch is a SPST momentary for the C/L-shimmer feature, and the blue wire switch is a SPDT momentary for on/off. So you have to hold the C/L switch, then press the on/off switch to get the saber to light or turn off, b/c otherwise it's an open circuit, right?
2) I don't understand why the boards "get out of sync" like GFORCE13 says. Is this problem really that noticeable/frequent? I haven't heard of it happening with the CB in combo with an MR FX board (yet...still reading). I sure don't want a 3rd switch as a master reset...I think I'd just turn it off then on again to re-sync them if it isn't frequent.
3) Xwing said the motor output on the Obi-Wan s/b would be good to use for Corbin's C&L feature. So can I manually trigger the C/L by connecting the 2nd switch in place of the motor *without* connecting directly to the CB like in the diagram? For some reason I thought C/L wouldn't work if not connected directly to the board, but I guess it shouldn't matter since it's already in the circuit?
4) To resist or not to resist...some say you do NOT need a resistor when using a CB/Hasbro combo, yet others generally say their Hasbros get fried easily. I don't want to take the chance and fry my board. I also read in 1 place that you need a 2.2ohm 5w resistor to keep it from frying, another post said 2.2 ohm, 4.3w. If it's needed, which is correct (TCSS store only has the 5w), and where would it go in the circuit...between the + battery end and the Hasbro board in the above diagram? The LED will still have enough power?
All help is very appreciated.
OK...flame-throwers...on!...ready!...A-I-M-at-the-nooooob....
Eric