MPP 3.0 Vader ANH Parts List

[DarthVTX]

I am excited to start my journey to build my first saber. I have been reading and watching YouTube videos and have a good idea on what I like to build. I have sourced several sites and put this list together. I will be adding questions here once I receive the parts and begin.

I cosplay as both ANH & ROTS Vader. I plan to have my ANH Vader confirmed for registration for the 501st, so I decided to build the ANH Vader saber (I understand there was two types/looks used in ANH).

EDITED - 7/5/2017

Looking for confirmation....

HILT
TCSS MPP 2.0 Saber Kit

Sound
Nano Biscotte Sound Module V4
28mm Base speaker
MHS speaker mount V6 28MM - Speaker mount to house the 18650, NBv4, and the 28mm bass speaker

Light
Tri Cree XPE-2 LED DR/R/W
MHS Heat Sink V4 (Flat Style)
Star thermal tape pad - Tri LED
ANYTHING ELSE NEEDED? Resistors?

Blade
7/8” Blade - thin walled trans white poly carbonate blade - LENGTH? I am doing a ANH vader build
Blade plug 7/8”

Power
18650 3.7v 3400mah lithium ion battery
18650 Single Cell Holder
Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack - recharge port
9" Electronics shield for 1.25" ID tubes
ANYTHING ELSE NEEDED?

I was hoping to find a wiring diagram for the battery + recharge port + NBv4 + Tri Cree LED including resistors (?) placement.

Thanks and I will continue this in my future build thread which is here:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?21738-Darth-Vader-ANH-MPP-2-0-Kit-NBv4-Tri-Cree-DR-R-W-First-Build!

[jbkuma]

Unless you plan on having different mixes for your DR and R LEDs, you don't need that extender.

I'm assuming the 2 batteries are to swap.. the chassis says it's intended to use with pre-wired batteries. I'm not sure if you'll have room for a connector or not. It doesn't look like you will from the photo.

[Tom Tilmon]

I just built a Graflex with NBIV. I have no power exender. I am running a blue, blue, white tri cree with white flash on clash. The only reason you would need that power extender is if you are planning on mixing the Deep Red and Red tri diodes in some fashion.

Jake Sloan over on SLD runs straight Deep Red. I have done a Kylo saber (I'm 501st as well DS-74759), and I used all deep red in one, and all red in the other. I like the deep red better. If you ran the deep red only and forgo any mixing you can get rid of the power extender. Heck, even if you want to mix the deep red and red di, you can mix them evenly and wire them parallel to the L1 Pad. Then wire your white di to L2 (FOC).

I'm not sure if that chassis system will work for removeable batteries. I don't know if the Speaker Holder VI (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-mount-V6-For-28mm-Speakers-P892.aspx)with the 18650 battery carrier (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/18650-Single-Cell-Holder-P886.aspx)will work in the MPP hilt, but some people have adapted it to the Graflex chassis. Come to think of it, I'm pretty sure I saw a MPP install by shameem on youtube where he used Speakder Holder VI in a MPP Install. If that is possible, that is a fairly cheap chassis solution for you that allows interchangeable batteries, but would also make it possible to wire a recharge port for normal usage. I have removeable batteries in one of my Kylo Sabers, and on the other one, I went straight recharge port. the one problem with shuttling the chassis in and out to change batteries often is that you end up eventually damaging wires/solder joints.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtOFMr_O06E
He did manage to use the Speaker Holder VI in the MPP. That will work. I linked to the parts on TCSS above in the paragraph. If you go that route, either get some T8 protective tubing at the crepot or lowes, or you can also buy it here to insulate your board/wiring from the hilt. The T8 tubing is a plastic tube that will fit perfectly over the Speaker Holder VI! Its a very simple solution to your chassis woes.

So, what I have done is put a recharge port onto my replaceable battery saber, so that I can recharge the batteries without shuttling out the chassis. Mostly I recharge the battery in the hilt, and only rarely open the pommel. to change batteries at troops. I have 2 sabers. I use one til it dies, then switch to the other while the first one charges.

By the way, I love the NBIV board. Simplicity, size, sound, and sensitivity are hard to beat for that price. Its a cool little board for a single color saber. My next build is a MPP with Darth Ryo Chassis/Crystal Chamber reveal, so I'd be interested in watching your progress. My first parts are already on their way, but will take a bit to save up for the hilt kit and other various and sundry electronics that I need to finish it.

Tom

pps: even though in the NBIV instructions where you can adjust the drive voltage to potentially forego the usage of resistors.......use the resistors, because I think you'd have to turn the drive down below the suggested 80% of max to avoid overdriving the red/deep red diodes. So, I'd just configure the NBIV to drive them fully "1023" and resistor the red/deep red diodes of your main LED.

[rlobrecht]

You do not need the clash sensor. One is built into the board.

[DarthVTX]

Thanks for the great feedback specifically about the power extender and NBv4! I have adjusted my parts list and reduced expense!

I have EDITED my parts list above.

I read above the there are tow basic methods to power the saber - removable batteries or recharge port. I would love to hear pros and cons as there does not seem to be much difference cost wise - just the knowledge to wire each method up.

I am ordering the hilt and will slowly purchase the parts.

[Tom Tilmon]

Thanks for the great feedback specifically about the power extender and NBv4! I have adjusted my parts list and reduced expense!

I have EDITED my parts list above.

I read above the there are tow basic methods to power the saber - removable batteries or recharge port. I would love to hear pros and cons as there does not seem to be much difference cost wise - just the knowledge to wire each method up.

I am ordering the hilt and will slowly purchase the parts.

The nice thing about replaceable batteries is that when your saber dies, you shuttle out the chassis and insert a fresh soldier, boom saber back on. If all you have is a recharge port, it'll be a few hours until you can play again. IF you use the MHS Speaker Holder VI, it is possible to have both. You can have replaceable batteries and a recharge port. I wired one of my sabers like that. Wire the recharge port to the battery terminals. Red coming off positive on port to board. I wire white as hot negative lead (when kill key is out) off the recharge port to the board. Battery connections on 18650 holder go straight to the recharge port. This way, you can mainly recharge in hilt without shuttling chassis in and out all the time; however, at a con, you can pull the quick switch to avoid the wait. To me, this gives you some options. Plus, the speaker holder VI is a great chassis option. Shameem used it right? Anything Shameem can do, I'll follow. He's crazy, weird, and I like that. Star Wars 'n!!!!!

[Tom Tilmon]

PS, Dr to R comparisons.


https://youtu.be/EcX-gs8T6Tg

[Tom Tilmon]

...and with enhanced red blades from tcss:


https://youtu.be/Sk3d7lauHjA?list=PLos66FQtR0lustsn8fFZxJ3C9lvBaVpp 6

[DarthVTX]

PS, Dr to R comparisons.


https://youtu.be/EcX-gs8T6Tg

Thank you for the comparison of the DR vs R. It definitely confirms my Tri Cree combo I am looking to do - DR/R/W - W for FOC. BTW - I am using my iPhone for videos (I can use a bluetooth to turn on/off vid) - How do you like working with the GoPro for tutorial videos?

Cheers!

[Tom Tilmon]

Its Ok, the audio stinks, and there is no viewfinder. But it works.

So, here is my NBIV Graflex (youngling killer) in action. Go to last few minutes of below linked video. I think you'll like the NBIV performance. I was very impressed with the power of the little board!


https://youtu.be/_2NcCUqZoVs

[Tom Tilmon]

Internals
MPP 2.0 Chassis Black - IS this needed if I have the V6 speaker mount above? Also - It is used with the Wired battery but not the Wired NBv4 - is there a chassis that will accommodate both?


You don't need the MPP 2.0 Chassis Black if you use V6 Speaker Holder and 18650 Battery Holder. The V6 speaker holder IS your chassis. It will house the battery, soundboard, and speaker. You can run your wires to your recharge port from your battery contacts in the battery carrier. You then run contacts from your recharge port to your NBIV mounted on the V6. This way you can charge/replace batteries...you have the choice. The V6 holder carries everything. Its the solution you're looking for that is simplest for a new builder. You can always improve upon this later by custom building a chassis. I'm getting ready to build my MPP, but using a 3D printed chassis, and a more complex board, not sure which one yet.

Link to the V6 holder, look at all the pix in the link. V6 Battery Holder, click HERE
(http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-mount-V6-For-28mm-Speakers-P892.aspx)
The hollow side of the V6 holder is where the battery carrier housing goes. Click HERE (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/18650-Single-Cell-Holder-P886.aspx) for battery housing.

The opposite side of the holder, the flat side is where your NBIV will be mounted, so you can have SD card access. Your wires come in the front of holder and solder onto your NBIV. Your SD card should eject towards the speaker. The speaker mounts in the back of the V6 holder. You really need to watch Madcow's V6 holder video, my words are elusive to explain all this, but the V6 can do it all. Madcow's Video:


https://youtu.be/MLhCloMy_JI

...more in a bit.

[Tom Tilmon]

This is Madcow's video about the 18650 battery holder that fits into the V6 Speaker Holder:


https://youtu.be/oGdwJqifXqE

I have linked to both of the parts demonstrated in these 2 videos by Madcow. I also linked to a video previously where Shameem used the V6 holder as a chassis in a MPP he build for Korbanth. So, this V6 is your solution, that in fact, should save you some money on your build.

Tom

[Tom Tilmon]

BTW, I have seen some guys put a recharge port in the clamp. I don't have my MPP 2.0 kit yet, so I'm not familiar enough to give you firm advice on that. My recharge port in my build will be in the 3d chassis at the back, and accessible through the pommel. The speaker is mounted a little further forward in that 3D chassis than it is in the V6 you're going to use. Just another idea to throw at you. You would just need to figure out a way to run your 4 wires from recharge port to your chassis through the clamp/hilt.

On the recharge port, I run 2 red lines off the positive feed. One to the battery, one to the board.

Black wire from battery direct to recharge pin on port. I then run a white wire off the Kill pin (the one the kill key knocks out). The white wire goes to my board. When kill key is in, no return to board. When kill key is out, board has juice. So, you would have 4 wires running from clamp to board, unless you want to drill a hole in the hilt for a recharge port. I'd think there is somewhere to put it, where it would be more subdued/hidden. Particularly if you are going for approval with 501st. With that being said, I don't think my GML was well-versed enough in sabers to even know what he was looking at. Some of them are though. Get to know your GML.

Also, little bit about the pre-wired stuff....you can do that, but I think your life would be a lot easier if you could solder. Soldering isn't rocket science, maybe a bit of art, but not science. With some fairly simple practice, it can be done.

My NBIV solders: 15634

[DarthVTX]

Thank you for the videos and the tips. I placed my order today and its being shipped today - so fast service!

Some items I did not order...

1. Tri Cree Lens - is that needed and should I order? - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/18deg-Tri-RebelCree-Star-Lens-P778.aspx

2. Is there a holder for the heat sink + Tri Cree LED?

3. Resistors - from what I read - a setup of Tri Cree DR/R/W + NBv4 + 18650 3.7 V battery ->

Deep Red Cree Part# XPEEPRD-L1-0000-00C01
425 Radiant Flux @ 350mA
Forward Voltage @1000mA = 2.5v

R <Ohms> = (3.7 - (2.5)) / 1A
R = 1.2
P <Watts> = 1.2 * 1A
P = 1.2
1.2 ohm, 3W watt resistor


Red Cree Part# XPEBRD-L1-0000-00901
80.6 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 350mA
Forward Voltage @1000mA = 2.59v

R <Ohms> = (3.7 - (2.59)) / 1A
R = 1.11
P <Watts> = 1.11 * 1A
P = 1.11
1.2 ohm, 3W watt resistor

White Cree Part# XPEBWT-L1-0000-00F51
266 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 1000mA
Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.15v

R <Ohms> = (3.7 - (3.15)) / 1A
R = 0.55
P <Watts> = 0.55 * 1A
P = 0.55
0.5 ohm, 3W watt resistor

Thanks!

[Tom Tilmon]

Your resistor plan: I think you now understand Ohm's law, and your resistor plan is solid on 3.7 volt battery! The only thing I'd add is that you can resistor your white, as you might be driving it a bit hard....but FOC doesn't stay on long. I didn't resistor my white on my Graflex install. Your reds definitely need that 1.2 Ohm 3 watt resistor though, or you'll fry them quick.

You need the lens on the tri-cree. Let me shoot you a video and timepiece to watch on how to assemble the LED, Lens, and LED module. Basically, the LED star attaches to the copper heat sink with thermally conductive tape. They sell the tape for the stars at TCSS, order a couple in case you have issues peeling backing and mess it up. So, solder your wires to your LED, tape the LED star to the copper heat sink, place the lens on the LED (legs go in the holes on the star), then screw the heat sink into the module. The module you need for the 7/8 adapter in the MPP should be THIS ONE------>CLICK HERE (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/875-OD-Heatsink-module-with-center-hole-P1138.aspx). Its currently out of stock at TCSS, which is tough. They are currently playing catchup on machining parts to get MHSV2 line back up and running, so this module may take awhile to restock.

Note: when using the .875" OD Heatsink Module from The Custom Saber Shop, you either need to order a tri-cree with a modified base, or be willing to modify it yourself. Basically, the copper base that the LEDs are mounted upon is too wide for the .875" heatsink/LED module. If you have a dremel and sanding disks you can just sand the outside of the star down so that it fits into the .875" module. I modified my own base. If you modify your tri cree base with a dremel, be careful not to use pliers or vice where they pinch or touch the actual LEDs. The three LEDs of your Tri_Cree are soldered on a PCB, which is all mounted on the base and forms the whole tri-cree LED. You don't want to hold onto the base at the actual LED's. Also, when soldering, be very cautious not to let the soldering iron touch the LEDs!!!!! You'll melt the little lenses on the diodes. You don't want to do that.

Video, watch from: 7:42 (I had already attached the LED Star to the heat sink with the star tape, but this shows you how to assemble the module and lens.

https://youtu.be/_2NcCUqZoVs

Tom

[Tom Tilmon]

This video shows the entire deal: installing the star on the heat sink, putting the lens on the LED, and then assembling the heat sink/star/lens into the module. The TCSS Custom Saber Shop Adapter for Kylo Ren acts as the LED Module in this saber. So think of that longer piece as an actual shorter module for the MPP. This particular piece of TCSS engineering also acts as the blade holder when modifying a Black Series Kylo Ren Saber. Start watching at 1:15.


https://youtu.be/NX_-JPs03bU

Tom

[Tom Tilmon]

Why the lens is important! Here is Madcow (from Genesis Custom Sabers) video about how to get a bright evenly lit blade on your saber. This is one of the best videos he ever made, and in my opinion, you really need to watch all of his videos on TCSS youtube channel before you begin your build. He will save you time, heartache, and money!


https://youtu.be/5pKYeFxqENU

Tom

[DarthVTX]

Thanks for the video. I am excited to start as I have one week until I am a guest at a local comic book convention in North Texas. In the meantime I am working on my helmet's fans and padding.

I will order the resistors for the reds & white (better be safe than sorry) plus the lens cover and extra pads.

Will this 7/8" module work? - https://www.etsy.com/listing/251392488/78-copper-heat-sinks-for-tri-led - It's sold in the US.

Thanks again!

[Tom Tilmon]

That will work. You will need to find some way to secure the lens to the LED star base. The TCSS modules have a lip near the end that captures the lens to hold it tight on the star. With this copper module, you'll need to hot glue or superglue the lens to the LED Star, and then drop it in. You will still have the issue of probably needing to sand the perimeter of the LED star to reduce its diameter.

I'm not sure what the "core" looks like on the MPP, but you'll need to drill and tap some sort of retention screw for the LED module in the core.

Good luck, I'm Kylo Ren this weekend for a Lucasfilm Limited approved baseball game appearance. Like I said before, the MPP is my next build, so I'm very interested to see how your project turns out. My Darth Ryo chassis is on the way, and I'm about to order the rest of the parts I need next week!

Tom

[DarthVTX]

I found one more source that seem to have the module I need. All other sources are sold out for now.

7/8″ OD Heatsink Module
https://thesaberarmory.com/product/78-od-heatsink-module/

Thanks

[Tom Tilmon]

that works too! Khal's video on that page is an awesome show of how to modify the tri-cree LED base to fit in the smaller led modules too! Great find.


https://youtu.be/HPhW8nVGCCY