The Qui-Gon Jinn custom saber

[jjshumpert]

so i've hit a bit of a snag here and would like some input and ideas on how i might be able to get around it. ive got everything wired up on the qui gon electronics, the 5w and the sound all work well, but im having a hard time fitting it back into the hilt. this saber has the 5w basic electronics kit from tim with a 6AA bat pack and using tims 1.25 blade holder. the pommel construction uses the mhs to 1.5 adapter and pommel 1. sound module is an 05 mr luke. shock sensor has been adapted to fit into the pommel section with the bat pack directly above it and the speaker will be fitted to the bottom of the heatsink. the problem im running into is the mr board is too tall to allow stacking the resistor and switch on top of it inside the 1.25 tube, but the saber isnt long enough to set them end to end and allow room for the speaker. another snag i found with this setup is i have to keep the stock mr switch on board in order to maintain the powerdown sound font, otherwise i powerdown the led with tim's switch and the sound shuts off immediately with it. here are pics of what im working with at the moment...

http://a269.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/7/l_9c28403fcb348f42c6a171d3bf16f704.jpg
http://a200.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/49/l_bfb565e0e725e30bc510df9da6672daf.jpg
http://a821.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/10/l_07b04f03693e34c02447625e56cd8754.jpg

ive got to get this figured out and fitted into the hilt before i can finish up the fiberglass work on the inner hilt to get the final look of the saber. i had considered resizing the mr module to make room by sanding it down and removing the led header, but i havent done that type of modification to the mr boards yet and would really appreciate some input from anyone who has before atempting it. i also am working out placement of the mr switch along with tims so that i can control the led and sound power supply independently. once done this one should be pretty darn loud considering the dead space in the hilt that will be used by the speaker for resonance. please comment on this one guys, i can use all the help i can get! :lol:

[Ryma Mara]

On my hilt wha tI did was take a discarded pice of a stock MR blad eholder(the black piece), I cut a notch in it for the switch to slide into it, Wha tI did was I took the MY board and slid it inside with the wires wrapted around the board, then set the switch carefully just inside but angle it forward so when I slide it in the hilt the switch hits the hole.

Then I take my figer and push the switch into the hole and hold it up with my fingers or something. then take a flathead screw driver and puts the casing forward so essentualy the switch is on top of the board but is all encased into the black plastic pice.

Now you mightnot be abel to using the plastic parts but It might give you an idea about how you can stack the switch above the board.

If I can remember I will put some pics up later so shoe you what I did.

[jjshumpert]

im working with a 1.25 inner hilt unfortunately ryma, if i had the id of a 1.5 then this would be no problem at all. the id im working with is also smaller than the space you have inside your mhs sabers, considering my entire tube will fit into darn near any of the mhs parts. there is simply not enough room for the sound module and the swich to occupy the same space, and there is only so far out i can mount the blade holder and lux assembly, so my only option i can see at this moment is modifying the luke module. i think also the maul/vader module is smaller, but dont quote me on that.

[Firebird21]

I don't know if this will work but it's an idea...


Have Tim make up a custom battery pack and inside the pack have him install a couple of smaller resistors with 3 leads off the battery pack. The smaller resistors should fin snugly inside the grove of the batteries and would be held secure by the shrink wrap.

1-Ground
2-Positive
3-Positive resisted

This assembly should be smaller than the battery pack you currently have, and you'd be eliminating the room taken up by the larger resistor.


I'll get some more info on this in a sec for clarification.

[jjshumpert]

would this be possible with my energy requirements with the 5w green lux running in this hilt? i still need to check in with the local rc shop to see what options they have as well. after all i want this to go rechargeable, its running standard batteries for the moment, but thats just for testing. let me know what you come up with...

[Jonitus]

Maybe ditch the AA battery route and get a couple LiIon cells. 2 LiIons would be the same voltage as 6 AA NiMH, but would take up less space.

[jjshumpert]

that was another idea for space saving, gotta find time to get by the local rc hobby shop to see what options we can come up with for this setup. i am using the 6AA at this time simply because its what came with the kit and im used it to test my connections after setting my connections. i will eventually set this hilt up with a pli and recharge port, but i have to finalize my setup before adding everything in.

[Madcow]

I've started my own Qui-God Jinn custom. When fully finished it will have a green K2, Erv's V2, and a rechargeable battery. AND be very screen accurate.

This is gonna take awhile so I thought I'd post pics as I go.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb98/rpetkau/Qui%20gon/qg1.jpg
Taped off and all the cuts measured precisely.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb98/rpetkau/Qui%20gon/IMG_1301.jpg
Finished aluminum exterior.

More pics of the process at:
http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb98/rpetkau/Qui%20gon/

MC

[jjshumpert]

mc, where did you find that spec sheet? i want one!!!! :twisted:

[Madcow]

Spec sheet was from here:
http://www.sitharchives.com/

I've had bad experiences in the past with spec sheets that turned out to be less than accurate. So I've been cross referencing this one with everything I can find, and so far it's pretty good.

MC

[jjshumpert]

thanks for the link mc, maybe ill be able to pick this one back up now... its been a dead hilt for a couple months

[DACOTA]

Oh man thanks mc that could come in handy.
I'll probably post a topic but how do they make the ridges on the emitter of the maul?

[987654321a]

mc is the shell of that saber an alluminum tube? or a sink tube? kinda looks to me like an aluminum tube. and did you use a dremel to cut it or a milling machine?

[Madcow]

It's made from the same aluminum tube you can see in the background of the first pic. I'm going all authentic if possible. Go see the link above to more pics and you can see how I used my drill press and dremmel to cut it out. Some of the larger straight cuts were carefully done on my mitre saw, with a metal cutting blade.

MC

[987654321a]

you are lucky you have all those tools, but for those that dont i guess it would suck and cant make it look exact. like if you have a milling machine you can easily make the main body for it, first get a regular tube then perfect it on the lathe, and go to the milling machine for the grooves, but idk if you have one or not.

[Ravage179]

very nice rob! Its gonna be a masterpiece!

[Novastar]

Great stuff Rob... if you've any Li-Ion questions, feel free to ask. I've got a good amount of experience with them thus far.

I *CAN* tell you that a latching switch MIGHT allow you to escape that "missing power down sound" problem. I'm 100% positive that I've NEVER used any MR stock switch... and wired up many MR conversions... and never lost the off sound.

Another thing--you could use two Li-Ion 18650 cells end to end... but they will NOT fit side-by-side in a 1.25" tube. They *can* in a 1.5" section though.

7.2v should be enough to run a Lux V since the fwd v is 6.85v... and the board should do fine as long as you don't give it the full 7.2 (as you know).

[Madcow]

Novastar,
Thanks... but I think you got the wrong thread since I don't have any of those problems.

I may ask you about the Li Ions for another project though. My plan is to stay with a constructed 4.8v NIMH.

MC

[Novastar]

Madcow...

the thread was started by jjhumpert. I do not have the wrong thread.

You're more than welcome to ask me whatever you like, although I didn't think THIS thread... was about you. :)

[Madcow]

My bad,
My name is also Rob.

MC

[Madcow]

My first try at using Acetal plastic (Delryn).
This stuff is nice to work with. Wasn't sure if I could drill holes for AA batteries, but I managaed it on my lathe.
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb98/rpetkau/Qui%20gon/IMG_1307.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb98/rpetkau/Qui%20gon/IMG_1311.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb98/rpetkau/Qui%20gon/IMG_1302.jpg

Gonna machine out the grip grooves this weekend with my router. I hope I don't screw it up

MC

[Lord Maul]

lookin good there MC 8)
i can't wait for the grooves to be done. that's when it'll really start looking like a qui gon

[jjshumpert]

great job so far rob, looking forward to the finished hilt. i might even have to commision your services on building this hilt for me as well, i certainly dont have tools on hand to produce a hilt on that scale. do have an estimate on materials for the finished hilt before electronics?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

That looks great, so far! Delrin is very easy to work with, not only does it cut well, but it can and also can be drilled and tapped. I have a hilt that is almost entirely made of Delrin.

[Madcow]

do have an estimate on materials for the finished hilt before electronics?

The parts are pobably in the ballpark of $30 not including any elecronics. Once I'm finished - I plan to keep it as one of a kind. I won't be doing any more of them. But I appreciate the compliment.

MC

[Lord Maul]

i might even have to commision your services on building this hilt for me as well, i certainly dont have tools on hand to produce a hilt on that scale.

are you kidding me? talk about a perfect excuse to get a lather.

"honey, i need a lathe for my lightsaber" :lol:

[Jay-gon Jinn]

are you kidding me? talk about a perfect excuse to get a lather.

"honey, i need a lathe for my lightsaber" :lol:
I've tried that....doesn't wok too well... :(

[Robb Mecaral]

Nice work, It's really coming together.

[WeirdoTransvestite]

The parts are pobably in the ballpark of $30 not including any elecronics. Once I'm finished - I plan to keep it as one of a kind. I won't be doing any more of them. But I appreciate the compliment.

MC

Wow. For $30 I can afford to build one, screw it up, and try again with another no problem.

[Madcow]

I got a little farther this weekend.
Routered the flat surface on the grip.
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb98/rpetkau/Qui%20gon/IMG_1316.jpg

Made the heat sink and fastened the green K2
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb98/rpetkau/Qui%20gon/led.jpg

MC

[Novastar]

How is the K2 going to stay in place? I always have trouble with that.

Unless you're just planning to hold it all in by pressure against the optics, against the heatsink, against the blade mount, etc. :)

[Madcow]

I used a thermal adhesive called Arctic Alumina. It fixes the LED emitter to the heatsink AND transfers heat. I did all my K2 sabers the same way.
For my 1" ID setup - it's way cleaner than workig with the star config.

MC

[Madcow]

Boy were these a headache to do!
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb98/rpetkau/Qui%20gon/IMG_1346.jpg

MC

[Lord Maul]

http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_jawdrop.gif

that looks AWESOME dude!

i can't wait to see the hilt completed

[xwingband]

I hate you for having the ability to do this.

I will have to settle for a Parks someday. :?

[vortextwist]

looks pretty frickin cool man. You should make 2 while your doin it :wink:

[jjshumpert]

AND SELL ME THE SECOND ONE!!!!! :twisted:

[Madcow]

Thanks guys,
I did the grooves with a wooden jig setup and my router. Took weeks to plan, and all day to execute.
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb98/rpetkau/Qui%20gon/IMG_1342.jpg

MC

[vortextwist]

AND SELL ME THE SECOND ONE!!!!! :twisted:

Ok maybe you needed to make 3 :wink:

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Very nice! I wondered how you were going to cut the grooves in the grip!

[Ravage179]

WOW!!!

Hope mine turns out that nice :wink:

[Jedi Ranger]

That is looking frakin' amazing, Rob!!!!!

Remember, take your time and measure at least twice, on everything!

[acerocket]

Madcow, I am amazed at the work you have accomplished given the tools you have (judging from the pics, they all look homemade or kit built), but you are scaring the crap out of me with your workholding methods. Please, be careful - you are heading towards a major injury by just holding stuff down with a leather strap. I mean no ill will to you, but I would like to ask you to be a little more careful. I have done plenty of stupid things in my 24 years in steel construction. I have gotten away with a lot of crap I shouldn't have and have been hurt pretty bad a few times being careless. Proper attention and respect must be given to power tools. This is good advice for everyone here. I am reminded of a poster I say in high school shop class (the younger generation probably has no idea what shop class is but I bet you oldtimers remember) that said "It's not IF an accident will happen, but WHEN - Follow all safety guidelines to reduce your risk of injury".

Sorry for the little rant, but I don't want to see anyone get hurt enjoying their hobby.

[Luke-SkyMarcher]

Nice! so you managed to get a more realistic grip section that mine! Looks great.

[Madcow]

Madcow, I am amazed at the work you have accomplished given the tools you have (judging from the pics, they all look homemade or kit built), but you are scaring the crap out of me with your workholding methods. Please, be careful - you are heading towards a major injury by just holding stuff down with a leather strap. I mean no ill will to you, but I would like to ask you to be a little more careful. I have done plenty of stupid things in my 24 years in steel construction. I have gotten away with a lot of crap I shouldn't have and have been hurt pretty bad a few times being careless. Proper attention and respect must be given to power tools. This is good advice for everyone here. I am reminded of a poster I say in high school shop class (the younger generation probably has no idea what shop class is but I bet you oldtimers remember) that said "It's not IF an accident will happen, but WHEN - Follow all safety guidelines to reduce your risk of injury".

Sorry for the little rant, but I don't want to see anyone get hurt enjoying their hobby.

Thanks ace, I appreciate the concern and respect your experience.
The pic of my router jig is deceiving - I actually didn't ese the leather strip for routering on this jig. I made an aluminum clamp that was screwed into the delrin and onto the wood. The wood has a channel that helps lock the delrin and keep it straight. Kinda like this...
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb98/rpetkau/Qui%20gon/IMG_1312.jpg

I'm enough of an old timer that I rememebr the saying.
MC

[Madcow]

I did the pommel today, and cut out the compartment for Erv's CF.
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb98/rpetkau/Qui%20gon/IMG_1369.jpg

I still have to drill sound holes in it.

MC

[Novastar]

Niiiiiice... :)

[Jonitus]

Madcow, I mean this with nothing but respect...but damn, I hate you.

I am totally sticking my tongue out at you and mumbling under my breath.

Totally

[vortextwist]

oh man! VVVEEERRRYYY nice!!

[Madcow]

Thanks guys,
I was going to look into powder coating, but I'd like the option to make it look weathered and scratched - so I'll go with a good black paint. I won't use my regular flat black because I want a satin finish like on the Larabel version.
Any ideas for a quality spray paint?

MC

[Jacen_Aurion]

MC you're amazing, that looks awesome.

[Ravage179]

use bbq paint then buff the heck out of it with a cloth, looks like a nice satin black when youre done.

[Proximal]

that is absolutely awesome. great job.
You have balls working with acetal. It is absolutely the most volatile of all the polymers (at least in my experience working as QC in plastics). If it catches on fire you won't see it. the flame is blue and looks alot like a welding torch. It is also very very easily ignited. And omg, the smell is horrendous. It can make you cry if you smoke too much of that :?

Just be careful. I can't wait to see the final product.

[vortextwist]

I thought he said it was delrin?

[xwingband]

I thought he said it was delrin?

Same thing.

[vortextwist]

DOH 8)

[Madcow]

I just completed the rest of the machining work on the last 2 aluminum parts for the emitter/blade holder.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb98/rpetkau/Qui%20gon/IMG_1381.jpg

I'm getting really excited. I'l start the wiring next weekend.

MC

[vortextwist]

Man I can't blame ya. looks awsome!!

[james3]

WOAH!!!!!! Amazing work there MC! Rock on!

[987654321a]

nice job on the saber MC. but just a question, i couldnt help but notice that grey stain, what is that? are you planning on removing it?

[Madcow]

Good eye,
The grey is actually modellers putty. Because the grip section is Acetal plastic - I've used the putty to cover scratches and nicks - then I sand over it - once it's painted you'll never know it was there - like body work on a car.

MC

[987654321a]

oh wow nice. i thought paint or something dripped on it.