iheartoptimusprime
05-02-2017, 12:43 PM
Just came here to show off my Luke ROTJ conversion. This was my first saber conversion, and definitely had some learning moments, but I didn't screw anything up too badly!
First, pictures!
http://i.imgur.com/ei30AqL.jpg
Taking apart the hilt
http://i.imgur.com/j38ykae.jpg
Completed hilt side view
http://i.imgur.com/NUtMZSX.jpg
Completed hilt vertical view
http://i.imgur.com/X9BBVsL.jpg
Lights off
http://i.imgur.com/5MIMPsv.jpg
Dim lighting
Parts used:
TCSS Luke ROTJ Conversion Kit
Cree XP-E2 Green LED
TCSS 8.7 Degree Lens
TCSS Lens Holder
TCSS Thermal Tape
TCSS Brass 8/32 Thumbscrew
TCCSS Drill and Tap Set (8/32)
Heatshrink
Wire
Ultrasabers 36" Heavy Grade Blade (had a spare laying around)
Tools Used:
Cordless Drill (For drilling the retention screw hole and tapping the hole)
Hacksaw (For cutting the stock MR blade holder)
Needlenose Pliers (Stripping wire and removing pins)
Soldering Iron (for the LED)
I followed the stickied thread about the Luke ROTJ saber, and it's pretty on-point. The one thing I would mention is that if you're using TCSS LED, the sink pads are awesome, but I'd recommend cleaning the sink pad with a small bit of rubbing alcohol prior to soldering leads onto the LED. At first, I could not get the solder to stick to the sinkpad, but after cleaning the sinkpad it worked like a charm.
TCSS's kit is wonderful, and I'd highly recommend picking one up if you are at all interested in converting your MR Luke ROTJ saber. Mine originally had the top third of the blade LEDs dead due to a rather intense duel, and now you can't even tell there's not a string blade in the saber, in regards to brightness. You do lose the "phase effect" for power on/off, but it's a small price to pay for a more durable saber with an intensely brighter blade.
Also, my blade is a HG blade from Ultrasabers, so the blade is thicker, thus reducing brightness. I'll try to get some pictures with a MG blade and Ultraedge blade later today for comparison, as well as some daylight pictures.
SIDE NOTE: for 1-inch blades, the TCSS blade holder is an *INCREDIBLY* snug fit, so unless you're dueling, you might not even need to drill the retention screw hole, if that's something you're worried about (I don't have a drill press, but I just eye-balled it with the cordless and did fine). If you're just using the saber for display, you can get away with no retention screw. Mine stays in place with no wobble whatsoever. YRMV.
First, pictures!
http://i.imgur.com/ei30AqL.jpg
Taking apart the hilt
http://i.imgur.com/j38ykae.jpg
Completed hilt side view
http://i.imgur.com/NUtMZSX.jpg
Completed hilt vertical view
http://i.imgur.com/X9BBVsL.jpg
Lights off
http://i.imgur.com/5MIMPsv.jpg
Dim lighting
Parts used:
TCSS Luke ROTJ Conversion Kit
Cree XP-E2 Green LED
TCSS 8.7 Degree Lens
TCSS Lens Holder
TCSS Thermal Tape
TCSS Brass 8/32 Thumbscrew
TCCSS Drill and Tap Set (8/32)
Heatshrink
Wire
Ultrasabers 36" Heavy Grade Blade (had a spare laying around)
Tools Used:
Cordless Drill (For drilling the retention screw hole and tapping the hole)
Hacksaw (For cutting the stock MR blade holder)
Needlenose Pliers (Stripping wire and removing pins)
Soldering Iron (for the LED)
I followed the stickied thread about the Luke ROTJ saber, and it's pretty on-point. The one thing I would mention is that if you're using TCSS LED, the sink pads are awesome, but I'd recommend cleaning the sink pad with a small bit of rubbing alcohol prior to soldering leads onto the LED. At first, I could not get the solder to stick to the sinkpad, but after cleaning the sinkpad it worked like a charm.
TCSS's kit is wonderful, and I'd highly recommend picking one up if you are at all interested in converting your MR Luke ROTJ saber. Mine originally had the top third of the blade LEDs dead due to a rather intense duel, and now you can't even tell there's not a string blade in the saber, in regards to brightness. You do lose the "phase effect" for power on/off, but it's a small price to pay for a more durable saber with an intensely brighter blade.
Also, my blade is a HG blade from Ultrasabers, so the blade is thicker, thus reducing brightness. I'll try to get some pictures with a MG blade and Ultraedge blade later today for comparison, as well as some daylight pictures.
SIDE NOTE: for 1-inch blades, the TCSS blade holder is an *INCREDIBLY* snug fit, so unless you're dueling, you might not even need to drill the retention screw hole, if that's something you're worried about (I don't have a drill press, but I just eye-balled it with the cordless and did fine). If you're just using the saber for display, you can get away with no retention screw. Mine stays in place with no wobble whatsoever. YRMV.