View Full Version : PC 2.0 No main LED power

05-02-2017, 10:18 AM
Currently getting .24Vdc on my +LED and -LED pads.

Current Setup:
PC 2.0
CREE TRI-XP-E2, GGW wired in Parallel *see power source
power extender for White FoC
5mm Green accent LED going to crystal chamber
2.1mm Recharge Port
Premium Speaker(TCSS)
5 Vdc Li-ion protected cell

To the point i'm not getting any light out of the Main LEDs. Im using a Cree TRI-XP-E2 GGW with a power extender on the white. the White FOC works fine but no power of the main LEDs. My power supply is only a 5VDC LI-ION so the GG are wired in parallel, thank you ERV for having the insight to allow for driving up to 2A from the LED pads. I have changed the config file to 1800 so I know the current should be right but after putting a multimeter on it the pads are only putting out .24VDC...
Is there a place on the board I can check the voltage coming from the LED driver aside from the main pads... I didn't test the board prior to instillation so now I have it built into the chassis and a crystal chamber above it and it would be a pain to replace to board itself I can try de-soldering with some braid and re-soldering but I'd like to isolate WHY its doing this.

Everything else on the saber works. the sound is perfect, the FoC lights up for clashes and blaster block/ lockup, the accent LED pulses once the kill key is removed... just no main LED light at all.
** I have used a 2AAA pack with alligator clips to test the green LEDs individually and they light up with the battery pack. I have also swapped the config file back to 900 and isolated the wiring to 1 green die but still no joy.
I cant figure out why the board is only driving .24 volts on the main LED pads any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jay-gon Jinn
05-02-2017, 01:36 PM
From the manual:
"Power supply: 5.5 to 11 V / 2.5A (with the High-power LED). 2 li-ion cells
(18650 or 14500) batteries recommended"

You are very likely under driving the board with the 5 volt battery pack. The current regulator on the board will need that minimum 5v in order to properly drive the sound and the led. A 7.4v set up will work best, and will allow you to wire your led's in series instead.

05-03-2017, 03:39 PM
I forgot to mention that i utilized the single cell hack for the petit crouton advertised on Erv's website.

Jay-gon Jinn
05-03-2017, 04:25 PM
In that case, pictures of your board and wiring may help.

05-03-2017, 06:18 PM
Jay-gon Jinn thank you for taking an interest in my post. I was afraid that due to the age/model of the board i am using that no one would bother replying. I cannot send photos due to the fact that i have desoldered the board and am going to start over with the wiring. All i have left currently are connecting the power extender wires or rather the negative lead to the negative terminal on the board, and both output wires coming off the power extender. If i am still having the same issue after finishing all of my wiring i will add pictures to my post. Im hoping, that i dont have to replace this board, i have 2x more of the 2.0s, but because i already loctite'd the threaded chassis disk in place and i would have to cut my 4/40 rods and start the actual build process over again...
Thank you again for you asistance and input.

05-04-2017, 06:58 PM
Stii having the same issue. After contacting the Einstein of sound cards, Erv Plecter, he asked me to check the value of the SMD resistor right next to the LED output pads. Citing that it should have read < 1 ohm. In actuality the resistance fluctuated from 28 ohms to as low was 6.7 ohms. Im not sure if there is some coating that i should have removed or not. He also told me to read the voltage, with the saber on, from the +LED pad to the - terminal on the board where the battery/FoC negative lead attached. The result was 4.37Vdc. Im assuming then that the resistor is affecting the voltage causing the voltage drop accros thge resistor to bring the voltage drop across the LED to below its forward voltage... hopefully some o e here will know what to do or Erv will get back to me when he can. Just wanted to give anyone reading this an update.
Thank you all.

Jay-gon Jinn
05-05-2017, 01:20 PM
If you bought the board second hand, it may have been damaged by a previous owner. Erv will take care of you, I'm sure, he's always been great at helping people out with his products, even when they're older ones.

05-09-2017, 10:22 AM
Received this reply from ERV, on May 4th of all days LOL:
"Check the big rectangular resistor with R150 on it, it should be < 1 ohm with the board fired up and playing sound (activated) measure the voltage between the Luxeon L+ pad and the main neg of the board
Erv' "
Upon applying the multi-meter to the resistor, the ohms read 27.65 and slowly decreased to 6.7ohms, at this point I was sure something was wrong with that component sure enough when I desoldered it from the board it came off in two pieces.

after replacing the SMD resistor the board and LEDs work perfectly. thank you all, and THANKS ERV.

Darth Scorn
06-06-2017, 07:00 AM
I am having somewhat of the same issue on my pc 4.0, setup is 7.4v cells, tri cree amber, deep red and white for the flash on clash and the red+amber bridged, when I pull the kill key the red and amber turn on but not bright at all, the only way you would know its on is by looking down the blade holder, when I turn the saber on the white led comes on and functions as the main led when I have it wired to the on board pex with a resistor, I have wired this thing three times now thinking its something I did wrong but everything is correct and I am at a loss, is there something I need to change in the configuration or the overide? I forgot to mention when the kill key is out and the saber is off but the red and amber on slightly on I can scroll through the menu and the leds will react to the beeps, dont know if that info helps but any advice I can get on this matter will be greatly appreciated