"inner" core question

[darth.maledous]

Hi everyone. I've seen a few saber builds where people have designed what appears to be aluminum "inner" cores; I've included a pic of what I'm trying to describe. My question is; is there something in the TCSS store that could be used to create something like that?

15345

Thanks in advance

[Greenie]

I may be wrong but I don't think they do. I had very little luck finding tube with the perfect 1.25" OD but I have a lathe so I am able to turn thick walled tube to the ideal OD. Goodman made build logs for the saber you pictured but I believe a lot of his builds are turned from solid stock.

Greenie

[Silver Serpent]

You can build a normal MHS saber with removable sleeve material. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-Sleeve-material-12-P468.aspx

The tricky part is figuring out how to handle switches and other items that protrude from the core.

[Jenny]

That sort of crystal chamber / core is generally done by the more advanced practitioners of our craft. There are chassis parts in the store, but they're functional, not as artistic as what you've referenced. You could, as Silver Serpent suggests, build a core from MHS parts and overlay that with shroud material, but I think you're still going to run into the difficulty that you're not getting the artistic core you wish.

My suggestion? Either start learning metalworking (the mini-lathe site (http://www.mini-lathe.com/) is a decent primer on what's involved in that) or seek out one of the custom sabersmiths who are willing to do such work. Otherwise, perhaps starting with a walk instead of a sprint might be in order?

[Ty_Bomber]

Goodman's stuff is created using layers of material inside mhs. I suggest starting with 1.25 OD tube (the sinktube he sells here may work) and then making the cuts you need with a dremel.

[jbkuma]

1.25" sink tube should fit. It's not always a held to great precision, but it's cheap and available at your local hardware store, so you can always simply test fit pieces. There are also 1.25" pvc "sink tubes"

[darth_chasm]

1.25" sink tube should fit. It's not always a held to great precision, but it's cheap and available at your local hardware store, so you can always simply test fit pieces. There are also 1.25" pvc "sink tubes"

I can vouch for that. Although, a word of warning. Because of the thin walls, the pipe will go out of round when you cut parts out. You'll have to "massage" back into shape so that it will fit into the hilt.

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t649/DarthChasm/DCLS-005/IMG_6908_zpsppkubhyt.jpg (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/DarthChasm/media/DCLS-005/IMG_6908_zpsppkubhyt.jpg.html)

[darth.maledous]

I can vouch for that. Although, a word of warning. Because of the thin walls, the pipe will go out of round when you cut parts out. You'll have to "massage" back into shape so that it will fit into the hilt.

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t649/DarthChasm/DCLS-005/IMG_6908_zpsppkubhyt.jpg (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/DarthChasm/media/DCLS-005/IMG_6908_zpsppkubhyt.jpg.html)

Thanks guys. This was an idea I had for my second build :cool:

@Darth Chasm, that pic you posted is exactly what I wanted to do . Do you mind if I hit you up on PM with a few questions about some of the basics?

[darth_chasm]

Don't mind at all.

[Greenie]

If you can source tube with the appropriate OD you're half way there already. Sink tube is great but can be a little bit thin which may be a problem if any kind of threading is required. The switch function is the main challenge then it's all down to artistic and skill level, which we cannont presume based on your time here or the number of Sabers you've built.
'Revelation' was my third saber (I still consider myself a noob) but
I wanted the challenge of building a fully removable working chassis.

[darth.maledous]

If you can source tube with the appropriate OD you're half way there already. Sink tube is great but can be a little bit thin which may be a problem if any kind of threading is required. The switch function is the main challenge then it's all down to artistic and skill level, which we cannont presume based on your time here or the number of Sabers you've built.
'Revelation' was my third saber (I still consider myself a noob) but
I wanted the challenge of building a fully removable working chassis.

Greens to the rescue!!! I'm thinking I might give it a shot using a PVC sink tube for starters. I'll do a Visio drawing of what I have in my mind; that way everyone can give additional suggestions/advice etc.

Thanks again Greenie

[Greenie]

Greens to the rescue!!! I'm thinking I might give it a shot using a PVC sink tube for starters. I'll do a Visio drawing of what I have in my mind; that way everyone can give additional suggestions/advice etc.

Thanks again Greenie

No problem. Go for it. The good thing with PVC is the various sizes, fittings and couplers generally fit inside each other. Easily adaptable for securing all the electronics. Also, keeps the weight down unless, like me, you like a heavy saber
I'll be watching this thread. Good luck dude.

:mrgreen:

[hapki]

I use lots of layers in my sabers, though I haven't really made anything nearly as awesome as the picture you posted. I get various sizes of aluminum tube from onlinemetals.com (https://www.onlinemetals.com). I can't remember what size it is, but I get aluminum tubes that fit perfectly within the MHS hilts. I also get tubes that fit inside that one to make various layers. The hard part is working around switches.

[hapki]

.... I have to remind myself to calculate wall thickness, inner diameter, and outer diameter. I like using thicker wall tubes, because it leaves a clean edge. Thicker wall tubes just feel better.

[rlobrecht]

Great question. I'll be watching with interest.

[ls-event]

If you go to arklightarsenal site there are build logs showing how he developed each core, like the one you posted. Lot of it could be done without a lathe, just depends on how adept you are at workarounds and how much you're willing to grunt and sweat.

[darth.maledous]

Thanks for all of the input guys. It'll be a while before I start working on this, as I still have my first build, Shadow Hand, to complete. Then in May, I have my Starkiller build to work on. Hopefully by the end middle of June I can begin on this. I'm thinking, however, that I might grab a 5" extension from the shop and some PVC to play around with in the meantime. BTW, did I say how much I love this forum?? You guys are GREAT!!!

[darth.maledous]

I use lots of layers in my sabers, though I haven't really made anything nearly as awesome as the picture you posted. I get various sizes of aluminum tube from onlinemetals.com (https://www.onlinemetals.com). I can't remember what size it is, but I get aluminum tubes that fit perfectly within the MHS hilts. I also get tubes that fit inside that one to make various layers. The hard part is working around switches.

Thanks hapki. I checked out onlinemetals.com and they have a huge selection of materials. Now as for wall thickness, what should I be looking for?

[hapki]

I like to use the 0.058" wall 6061 T6 tube. I've used a thinner wall, but I think I get better results with the 0.058".

[darth.maledous]

I like to use the 0.058" wall 6061 T6 tube. I've used a thinner wall, but I think I get better results with the 0.058".

Thanks again hapki. :D

[rlobrecht]

I like to use the 0.058" wall 6061 T6 tube.

Is that thick enough to support a threaded hole?

[hapki]

It depends on how coarse the threads are. I've used 4-40 screws with them, but only in very low stress applications. I am skeptical that it would hold a switch. I could be wrong.

[jbkuma]

OK for 8-32 and 10-32.. anything coarser probably won't have much left to grab.

[darth.maledous]

Quick question guys; what's the smallest MHS extension that can be used to hold either a pair of "short" 16MM AV switches, or pair of Switch 21's ? I'm not going to incorporate switches into my first inner core design to keep it simple, but I'd like to use the .75" male/female extension, along with a set screw, to hold the core in place. I still need a spot to put the switches though.

Thanks

[Silver Serpent]

The Switch 21's? http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Red-momentary-switch-P559.aspx

They're pretty small. You should be able to fit those into the 2" DF section. Maybe even the 1.2" DF section, though you'll probably cut into the threads.

The short AV switches I don't think you can put them opposite each other without a switch box or Bezel. You'd need a longer section for those. They'll fit side by side on a 3" DF no problem.

[rlobrecht]

What about using the tactile switches? They are less than 3/8". The 0.75" extension is all threads through, so you can't get a switch through them without cutting the threads through two parts.

[darth.maledous]

What about using the tactile switches? They are less than 3/8". The 0.75" extension is all threads through, so you can't get a switch through them without cutting the threads through two parts.

You know, I keep forgetting about those tactile switches. A set of those would do just fine for what I had in mind. Thanks rlobrecht.

[Mike1114]

bringing up a dying thread but I have input. I found a plastic J tube at home depot sink tube section that is the perfect OD to fit inside MHS parts. I'll post pic and part number later.

I have a "core" built using this pvc tube and a TCSS #6 battery speaker holder. Grafted them together, 8-32 set screws lock them together. I am using a switch box 20, or 21, whichever is the one that you have to drill your own holes. Using a 12MM AV switch and a recharge port (bought a lot of 10 on amazon for less than sabers shops have them) It also has a crystal chamber in the same area as switch and recharge port. This was not easy cram fu. Ended up having to basically create a crystal chamber that is a half circle so when it slides in it clears the pins/wire for the switch and recharge port on the inside.

My questions is how do you incorporate switches and recharge ports using a completely removable core? Pics would help.

[jdubzw]

bringing up a dying thread but I have input. I found a plastic J tube at home depot sink tube section that is the perfect OD to fit inside MHS parts. I'll post pic and part number later.

I have a "core" built using this pvc tube and a TCSS #6 battery speaker holder. Grafted them together, 8-32 set screws lock them together. I am using a switch box 20, or 21, whichever is the one that you have to drill your own holes. Using a 12MM AV switch and a recharge port (bought a lot of 10 on amazon for less than sabers shops have them) It also has a crystal chamber in the same area as switch and recharge port. This was not easy cram fu. Ended up having to basically create a crystal chamber that is a half circle so when it slides in it clears the pins/wire for the switch and recharge port on the inside.

My questions is how do you incorporate switches and recharge ports using a completely removable core? Pics would help.

I'm curious about this also - I just built my first saber, but after removing the battery a couple of times I'm really thinking I want to change it to a rechargable setup and change around my wiring completely. I'd imagine if you wanted the entire core to be removable and make up the interior of the saber as one complete piece, you'd end up cutting a groove in the sink tube chassis that the switch would slide between. That would also make it really snug in place I would imagine. I'm not sure how you'd handle the recharge port though. I've seen people talk about how you can measure it so that the holes line up perfectly once it's totally threaded on but I have no experience on how to do that.

I'm personally after just making a nice internal chassis that would hold things in place as one single unit versus assembling a bunch of chassis discs. Also, since I'm using a Pico Crumble, there isn't a chassis disk specifically for that board, so the fit would be pretty lose. Specifically, I'd like to find a way to wire the recharge port into the pommel and thread it through the MHS grill that contains the large center hole. The 28mm speaker holder pretty much takes up the entire space though, which is making this a bit challenging. Could you perhaps have two small grooves on the sides of the speaker holder that could run those wires around the speaker holder and into the pommel?

[rlobrecht]

I've seen people talk about how you can measure it so that the holes line up perfectly once it's totally threaded on but I have no experience on how to do that.

Check out this video. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?17236-Video-Line-up-Threaded-parts


Could you perhaps have two small grooves on the sides of the speaker holder that could run those wires around the speaker holder and into the pommel?

There are plenty of people who have cut channels in the speaker holder.

[jdubzw]

Check out this video. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?17236-Video-Line-up-Threaded-parts

There are plenty of people who have cut channels in the speaker holder.

Awesome thanks!

When it comes to lining up internal parts though, are you using a similar method, where two holes line up with each other? Or would you do it with say like a set screw instead that kept them together in the right spot?

[Avidgrant]

Is that thick enough to support a threaded hole?

well- we shall see...... i ordered some of this today. Im assuming this fits in the "regular" MHS pieces..... I wonder if anyone knows what sizes fit in the smaller pieces like the ribbed pieces... anyone..... Bueller....

[Mike1114]

Here are some pics of my internal "sled" setup. you can see how I cleared the switch and stuff inside also.

Not the prettiest internal sled but Im going for function not fashion.

1558215583155841558515586

[Avidgrant]

eh.... it comes a little rough cut..... and does not seem to fit (out of the box) into standard MHS sections. I will do some sanding over the weekend and see if that gets me there.

[darth.maledous]

This is becoming a very informative thread. Glad to to others taking this on. I also have a question; how do you go about turning a PVC into a sled for electronics? Mainly the sound board.