Vader Black Series Conversion (In-Progress)

[brthegreat117]

Hey all. So I decided to also convert my Black Series Vader
For right now this is just the disassembly and primary wiring
So first of all, remove the screws on the shroud
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w436/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/IMG_0259_zpsa25tmdyw.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/media/IMG_0259_zpsa25tmdyw.jpg.html)
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w436/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/IMG_0263_zpsgjg599ji.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/media/IMG_0263_zpsgjg599ji.jpg.html)
And then this screw, and another on the opposite side (same as this one)
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w436/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/IMG_0258_zpsmbpbwu21.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/media/IMG_0258_zpsmbpbwu21.jpg.html)
Then remove this screw and disassemble the switch area
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w436/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/IMG_0260_zpss2s9baol.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/media/IMG_0260_zpss2s9baol.jpg.html)
Like I did with my Luke, I marked with a sharpie a wire to differentiate
I took this a step further and instead of desoldering the leads, I clipped them, and extended the wires
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w436/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/IMG_0266_zpsgldsoi5g.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/media/IMG_0266_zpsgldsoi5g.jpg.html)
Now tuck it in
You will then be able to remove the innards. Just lside them out
Now to remove these two pins
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w436/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/IMG_0267_zps8ymzykq6.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/media/IMG_0267_zps8ymzykq6.jpg.html)
One of these pins is covered by the tape that adds detail to the saber
I just peeled it back a bit and proceeded to tap out the pins with a punch
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w436/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/IMG_0268_zpsnlenrssg.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/media/IMG_0268_zpsnlenrssg.jpg.html)
Now the blade should come out.
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w436/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/IMG_0268_zpsnlenrssg.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/media/IMG_0268_zpsnlenrssg.jpg.html)
Disassemble the housing and you should be here
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w436/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/IMG_0270_zpsaaquvkin.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/media/IMG_0270_zpsaaquvkin.jpg.html)
Exactly like the Luke, bridge what you see and add a wire to each lead
This one was a bit messier for me than the Luke. I tried to clean up the solder a bit, but I had no desoldering braid
Hopefully it still works well
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w436/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/IMG_0275_zpsp62ce94z.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/media/IMG_0275_zpsp62ce94z.jpg.html)

Next update will be the LED
Using a XPE-2 Deep Red Cree with a 2ohm 1 watt resistor
A 1" heatsink module from TCSS with an 8.7 degree lens

[brthegreat117]

Finished!
Little things to note
No need for a resistor, had an issue that was solved when I clipped the resistor off

The most annoying thing was that my 1" heatsink didn't fit anywhere, so I had to sand the blade holder to 1" so I could snuggly fit the LED module inside. No instead of being 7/8s, it's 1".
I prefer 7/8s so I'll be making a 1" to 7/8s sleeve
I should have just used the conversion kit, but this was pretty excruciatingly fun in a way
The Deep Red is so cooooool. Feels so Rogue One-ish especially down my hallway
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w436/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/IMG_0283_zpsvrhhxowd.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/media/IMG_0283_zpsvrhhxowd.jpg.html)
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w436/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/IMG_0284_zpsm3bn78sw.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/media/IMG_0284_zpsm3bn78sw.jpg.html)
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w436/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/IMG_0285_zps37sziqxh.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/media/IMG_0285_zps37sziqxh.jpg.html)
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w436/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/IMG_0286_zpsdbuajtiu.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/media/IMG_0286_zpsdbuajtiu.jpg.html)
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w436/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/IMG_0279_zpslq8estkz.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/media/IMG_0279_zpslq8estkz.jpg.html)
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w436/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/IMG_0278_zps3rzkbclo.jpg (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/media/IMG_0278_zps3rzkbclo.jpg.html)

[Daku7511]

So would the conversion kit be easier with the black series. And if I use a tri cree deep red for all 3 and use the third as a standard instead of flash on clash would that work. I just got my vader black series and want to convert it. Just brainstorming at this point to figure out how to get the brightest deep red, but keeping the same sound system

[brthegreat117]

So would the conversion kit be easier with the black series. And if I use a tri cree deep red for all 3 and use the third as a standard instead of flash on clash would that work. I just got my vader black series and want to convert it. Just brainstorming at this point to figure out how to get the brightest deep red, but keeping the same sound system

The kit would make it a lot easier.
Their is someone on FB who offers conversions and he uses tri-cree for his clients. Not sure about the F.O.C though. I don't think these boards support that.

[rlobrecht]

Most battery solutions don't have the juice to support 3 LEDs concurrently.

[brthegreat117]

Which is what confuses me when people use tri-crees. They are going to run fully lit.
But is their a difference between a tri-cree running at %50 percent and a single cree running at %100?

[BONES22]

this looks great man! great job. Question, do you re-use the original blade for your conversions or do you buy new ones?? I just did My 2005 MR Vader and kept the the blade, looks pretty good but just curious.

[brthegreat117]

this looks great man! great job. Question, do you re-use the original blade for your conversions or do you buy new ones?? I just did My 2005 MR Vader and kept the the blade, looks pretty good but just curious.

Hey Bones, sorry for the late reply.

For this, I reused the original blade holder. It was such a hassle, but luckily I'm getting the conversion kit tomorrow and dropping that in.
Already have everything disassembled...again lol

[chuck805]

So the orange wire is connected to all 3 on the top and the black is conected to all 3 on bottom, with an extra wire connecting them down the middle?

[BONES22]

So the orange wire is connected to all 3 on the top and the black is conected to all 3 on bottom, with an extra wire connecting them down the middle?

Hey Chuck, basically there's one positive lead and the rest are negative. you could either bridge all of the negative pads together or you could run individual wires from each pad and and solder them together on the led negative (personally i like the bridge). The positive pad is singular and should never touch any of the the others if you catch my meaning. Wire color means nothing but preference really. I have photoshoped brthegreat117's photo to explain. hope it helps...
http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff473/bmariano222/HBSFXWIRE.png (http://s1237.photobucket.com/user/bmariano222/media/HBSFXWIRE.png.html)

[Colinh5481]

Why did you take the resistor off curious what was the problem. I'm having an issue with mine where it runs great for 25sec. Then the sound cuts out but the led is still on but gone dim. I'm gonna 're check my wires and solder.

[brthegreat117]

Thanks Bones again for the save. I used the image you made for someone who needed help on Facebook. Thanks for that as well!!

Colin, I didn't remove the resistor. Nothing was removed, except for the old blade holder now.
Check if you got a bridge

[Colinh5481]

Well checked my wiring and it's all good. I have a feeling it's an led issue. Cause I did a test and after 45 sec same issue but I noticed the led was very warm. It's all wired the same as my BS luke only difference in the two is the led used.
Ps.. I don't have that issue with the luke.

[chuck805]

When you put everything together, did u just stick the sound board in bottom part of the old hilt(where it connects to battery) and dispose of the entire top half? How did u get the bottom part to not move around?

[Strydur]

If you use our conversion kit the back half is a smaller diameter so you can use tape to hold the bottom half to the conversion kit. The sound module should tuck into the back half nicely. I cannot recall if you had to do a little trimming to get it to fit or not and I think I had to put it at a angle but I might be thinking of the Kylo on that.

[chuck805]

What do u mean bank half? This is what I have so far 1508115082

[chuck805]

I guess my question is how do I make it so the thing where the on/off swtich is and the sound board stays in place

[Strydur]

I said back half not bank half. You hold the plastic section to the metal section with tape.

[chuck805]

I said back half not bank half. You hold the plastic section to the metal section with tape.

The plastic section isnt long enough to reach the metal section, the hole for the switch wouldnt be at the right place if i were to tape it together. I am only using the plastic section where the battery connector and no the top part of the plastic.

[Strydur]

You need the other piece. The kit is designed so you only remove the length of plastic equal to the length of the kit.

[chuck805]

You need the other piece. The kit is designed so you only remove the length of plastic equal to the length of the kit.

idk why i am having so much trouble with this...the pic is what i have so far. I cut the top half of plastic to the length of which it was before when i tape it with the kit. Is this what I am suppose to do? And what do you recommend to get the on off switch wires through the hole after i put the entire assembly in?

[chuck805]

You need the other piece. The kit is designed so you only remove the length of plastic equal to the length of the kit.

Never mind I finished it!! I figured it out, thank you for the quick replies i really appreciate it!!

[chuck805]

What size is the thumb screw on the top of the saber? I damaged the hole and it won't go it anymore so Im going to use a tap to re-make the hole.

[Strydur]

Should be 8-32

[Ptrbutter]

Hello. I just converted my Vader BS as well and everything worked great at first. But recently, the saber stays on for only about 10-30 seconds and then shuts off. I wired everything correctly and am using new batteries. Before it shuts off, it sounds as though the volume is being turned down. Any ideas? Thanks

[johnpojo]

Wanted to thank you for this thread. Really helped me with my Vader conversion.

[johnpojo]

when it shuts off does it do the "saber shutting off" sound?

[Hobbiestoheroes]

Is it possible to get a link to the images for the disassembly? I am about to start my own and could really benefit from the reference material. Thank you.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Is it possible to get a link to the images for the disassembly? I am about to start my own and could really benefit from the reference material. Thank you.
Looking at Br's photobucket, i'd say the disassembly pictures are here: http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/Brandon_Fabian_Ramos/library/?sort=3&page=4

[Davemik239]

So I have the 2015 Vader Black Series. Attempting a basic conversion. I followed the diagram in this thread exactly and bridged the pads on the sound board the same way, only when I wired everything up and tested it, the LED flickers for a second and both the LED and sound shuts off. I tested the bridge in a different position, the same way the 2015 Rey Jedi Training saber is set up, and I got nothing. Pads aren’t labeled. Is there a different possible place for the VDD pad to be located? I’m completely befuddled as to why it’s not working correctly. Any help would be appreciated.