Deep Etching

[alcadude]

What kind of etching solution would I use to make deep etching on aluminum and chrome sink tube?

[Greenie]

I've only etched aluminium with saltwater, but I've found time is the main factor. The longer its 'submerged' the deeper the etching. :)

[darth_chasm]

ARKM has a good tutorial on saltwater etching, give it a look. My gut tells me you won't be able to etch chrome. You'll probably have to remove that and etch the metal under it which is most likely brass.

[ARKM]

Thanks darth_chasm.

Saltwater with electricity will work. Like Greenie stated, you just have to leave the part being etched, in the saltwater (with electricity running through it) for a longer period of time. There are chemicals that etch without using electricity but I have no experience with them. Perhaps others will chime in on that.

If you're going for a deep etch, like over .014" then you might need a waterproof substance for your resist. Paint and toner are not the best resists for really deep etching/bas relief designs though that does depend on the metal being etched. For example, brass etches way better/cleaner than aluminum when using toner as resist. Instead you might consider clear packaging tape that is cut while on the part (this will create cut lines in the metal and of course, severely limits the design shapes being used) or much better yet, use vinyl stickers cut from a die cutting machine or made for you by a sign making shop.

[alcadude]

Thanks for the help:p

[Darkmatter73]

My advice is: use ARKM's tutorial for saltwater. There are other ways to etch as stated,
But these are some nasty and dangerous chemicals. Not for the faint hearted for sure.

The saltwater is easy, and cheap! A box is about $1.50.
Also you could do what I did, buy yourself a vinyl cutter. I got a Silhouette Portrait from amazon for $160, which included the
vinyl starter pack. Best $$$ I've spent in a long time.

[jbkuma]

The saltwater is easy, and cheap! A box is about $1.50.
Also you could do what I did, buy yourself a vinyl cutter. I got a Silhouette Portraite.

Check out Darkmatter73's Husk (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?20435-an-MHS-saber-Husk) if you want to enjoy some of his fine work in relation to this!

[Darkmatter73]

Hey thanks very much for that =)
Wait and see what I've got cooking hehehe.

[Greenie]

Hey thanks very much for that =)
Wait and see what I've got cooking hehehe.

Tease!

[Darkmatter73]

Never! :)
If I could find a PLI i could finish this one up.
I've got a wanted thread over at FX, i wonder if they would allow that here if it was only parts offered at TCSS.

[jbkuma]

Never! :)
If I could find a PLI i could finish this one up.
I've got a wanted thread over at FX, i wonder if they would allow that here if it was only parts offered at TCSS.
Selling and trading are strictly forbidden.

[rlobrecht]

i wonder if they would allow that here if it was only parts offered at TCSS.

No buying or selling of any kind.

[Darkmatter73]

I know. Just saying it wouldn't hurt to buy/trade only TCSS parts on their own forums.
But I understand that we can't, and no worries. I love this place, much knowledge to be had.

[DarthSkummelavsky]

One thing I like about the saltwater method (using a 12v car battery charger) is that is you accidently short out the leads is leaves a nice little burn that could second as a blaster deflection damage. The contact has to be brief though or you run the risk of blowing up battery charger or arc welding your lead to the piece your etching. Have not tried this method on TCSS shroud material, yet; only sink tube brass.
Also trying out a gas, copper paint, silver paint and black paint mix for a weathering effect after laying down multi-methods of adding "battle dings and scratches". Using scotch guard pad, 300 grit, 600 grit wet and mill file to add to the "battle damage".

[Avidgrant]

When etching, is there any concern about the innards part of the saber..... I understand you want to protect the non etching portions of the outside, but what about the innards?

[Thalan the Exiled]

Yea anything you don't want etched(inside and out) will need to be protected with a resist of some type.

[Avidgrant]

is there a danger in the innards getting mass etched? If so- what do people normally do with the innards to protect them?

[ARKM]

First to be clear, the part being etched must NOT have anything inside of it. No electronics or anything else for that matter.

If the part being etched is of a tubular shape, is vertical, is touching the bottom of the container it is in and the top of that part is sticking out of the water, the innards won't get etched all that much. In fact in that situation, they won't get etched enough to alter the tolerances. However it is still a good idea to cover the inside with a resist and cover the ends. Not counting the resist being used for the design being etched, I use black vinyl tape tape to cover and protect the part. Since most parts are submerged, I tape a wire to the inside of the part (though I suppose taping the wire to the outside would work as long as it does not cover the area being etched). I then tape up the complete inside of a hilt by cutting long pieces of tape, dropping it through the hilt so that there is tape sticking out of both ends and then stick it to the inside of the tube. Once it's all taped up, I dab some hot glue where the wire exits the tape and hilt. I hope that helps.

[rlobrecht]

I tried just taping the end that was submerged, and got leakage inside the part. You can barely tell that it was etched, but it is slightly different. My other mistake was getting the spot where I had attached the lead to the part wet. It burned a small dent, which doesn't look so great.

[Avidgrant]

wait, you mean the disks and battery and soundboard should NOT be in while etching........ :) just kidding.

[ARKM]

Hey, there used to be a member here who rinsed his fully installed saber under his kitchen faucet to clean it so...

I wish I was making that up, lol.

[Avidgrant]

ohhhhh....... well then.