How Does This Look?

[Trow]

I am planning my first saber and will order the electronics first while waiting for hilt pieces to comeback in stock. How does this list look? I am wanting sound and flash on clash.

Prizm v4

8mm bass speaker

4 AA battery holder

1000mA 4 wire Buckpuck

Cree XP-E2 r/r/w

MHS heat sink V3

18 degree Cree lense

16mm AV switch

20 mA variable resistor

Am I missing anything? Will it all work? Thanks for the help!

[jbkuma]

You don't need or want a buck puck with the Prizm v4.

[Ty_Bomber]

If you get a Prizm, you will also need a secondary momentary switch so you can trigger blaster blocks, lockups, and force effects. If you don't need them, you can save some money by getting a Nano instead.

[Trow]

Jbkuma, thanks! That's good to know.

Ty-Bomber, I was looking at the NB but I didn't want to only have a momentary switch so that I don't have to constantly hold it down. Unless there's a way to make a latching switch work with it.

[NaasadTal]

Jbkuma, thanks! That's good to know.

Ty-Bomber, I was looking at the NB but I didn't want to only have a momentary switch so that I don't have to constantly hold it down. Unless there's a way to make a latching switch work with it.

I made this mistake at first too...Momentary switches don't require you to hold them down. it just means that the switch momentarily makes contact to complete the circuit, & then it pops back up, but the lightsaber stays on, then you press & hold the switch to turn it off. Latching switches stay down when you push them, kind of like a toggle switch.

[PhoenixHawk]

You don't have to hold it down...all the boards are set to activate by pushing the switch just once...then holding for a beat to turn it off.

[bunger]

Do you want to change blade colors, or will you always keep a red blade?

The reason I ask is because the Prizm will do color changes on the fly and added effects (lock up, blaster, etc). If you don't need either of those, then def get a Nano. You'll save money and complexity.

Also....
- get a rechargeable battery and not AA and a recharge port
- you will need resistors for each die of your LED

[Trow]

Do you want to change blade colors, or will you always keep a red blade?

The reason I ask is because the Prizm will do color changes on the fly and added effects (lock up, blaster, etc). If you don't need either of those, then def get a Nano. You'll save money and complexity.

Also....
- get a rechargeable battery and not AA and a recharge port
- you will need resistors for each die of your LED

I'm just looking for a single color so I won't need a Prizm.

What resistors do I put on the leds?

Is the battery life pretty good on the rechargeable batteries? I'm using this for performances and I like the ability to change batteries between shows if I need to.

[NaasadTal]

Most of the standard rechargeable batteries will give you at least an hour or 2 of solid "on" use, which should be more than enough for a performance.

As for the resistors, check out madcow's videos...there's a TON of great info in them, you'll find the videos here:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/forumdisplay.php?51-Informational-and-Tutorial-Videos

[Ty_Bomber]

Yeah, I would also suggest the 18650. It will give you much better run times (hours vs minutes), and while it is more expensive than a little pack of AAs, the fact that you can run for 2 hours and that they are rechargeable, saves you hundreds over the course of a couple years.

Here is the battery holder you will need: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/18650-Single-Cell-Holder-P886.aspx

And the high capacity rechargeable batteries: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/TrustFire-Protected-37V-2400mAh-18650-Li-Ion-Battery-2-pack-P517.aspx

[bunger]

Read the NB manual. It will literally answer nearly all of your questions (including how to select the appropriate resistors)

http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/Nano%20Biscotte%20v3-GB.pdf

[Trow]

Read the NB manual. It will literally answer nearly all of your questions (including how to select the appropriate resistors)

http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/Nano%20Biscotte%20v3-GB.pdf

That is super helpful. Thanks! I'm working in a modified list right now.

[Trow]

Ok let's try this.

Body:
Hilt 2
Choke 3
Pommel 4
Emitter 12


Electronics
NB3
Bass speaker
18500 battery
Recharge port
Cree XP-E2 r/r/w
MHS heat sink V3
18 degree Cree lens
16mm momentary AV switch short (gold plated)
I'll need to calculate the resistor values for the LEDs but I'll get the values later.

I put the hilt parts too to make sure it's all compatible.

[Silver Serpent]

Those parts will work fine together. I would advise getting at least one of these: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Star-thermal-tape-pad-Single-LED-P483.aspx

A second wouldn't be a bad idea, in case you ever need to resolder any of the LED star connections. It's virtually impossible to do while mounted on the heat sink, and those thermal pads are not reusable. Good thing they're inexpensive. :)