TCSS Sleeve Material anodized?

[vieiv]

Does the TCSS Sleeve Material come with the outside already anodized? What is the best way of removing the anodized coating so that I can salt water etch it?

[NaasadTal]

Pretty sure it is a raw piece of aluminum, not anodized

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

It does not come anodized.

[vieiv]

Interesting, the piece that I got from TCSS is non-conductive on the outside. Maybe its just oxidation build up? I tried to sand it away but it's a pretty thick layer. I had to scratch it with my multimeter probes to get any kind of conductivity. See pictures below of multimeter on the sleeve material and a main body.

1417014171

[FenixFire]

Oxidation most likely. Raw aluminum forms a thin film of aluminum oxidide quite rapidly and efficiently.

[vieiv]

What is the best way to remove it?

[.: SparrowHawk :.]

What is the best way to remove it?

Yep, that's strange. I just tested my sleeve/shroud material with a multimeter too, and got the same results you have. But oddly, when I check for continuity on the inner diameter, it conducts fine. So, yeah likely a coating of oxidation, and maybe it forms more rapidly on the outside, being exposed to more airflow.

As to how to remove it, I would try sanding it off with #00 grade steel wool, or possibly 320 grit sandpaper and then the steel wool. And if you want to really polish it up to a near-mirror finish, experiment with #000 and #0000 grades.

If you want a consistent surface finish between your MHS parts and your sleeve/shoud, be sure to sand in a direction around the tube, rather than up and down. Also, here's a great video tutorial with tips and tricks by Madcow for TCSS on scratch repair for MHS parts: https://youtu.be/VV3_6DANSdM?list=PL_45XUyymAuXCl9WlTzljTNVLGq4F3FK T
:)

[sks1138]

I ran into this problem last weekend. My shroud piece wouldn't etch. I just sanded it 300, 400 grit sandpaper. After a little work it was etching just fine.

[darth_chasm]

Put in water immediately after you sand it. This will keep it from oxygen, thus preventing the very quick process of forming aluminum oxide.

[Strydur]

We had this last batch bright dipped and I assume during this process a protective layer is built up or added after.

[FenixFire]

If sourced from China sources I have run into instances where their "Bright Dipped" aluminum and ""Clear" anodized stainless was actually coated with a very, very thin coating of some form of polymer clear coat. Only realized it after parts made it into UL testing. Caught same plant surface bead-blasting parts to fool the inspectors hardness tests just to avoid heat treating the components!

[vieiv]

I was able to remove the non-conductive layer by sanding it and refinishing it using the method that SparrowHawk suggested. It wasn't easy, since I cut out my shroud design already and it wasn't a solid tube. I suggest that you sand it to remove the non-conductive layer before cutting out your designs. It'll be much easier as a solid tube.

[.: SparrowHawk :.]

We had this last batch bright dipped and I assume during this process a protective layer is built up or added after.

Ah, thanks for the feedback Tim! That makes sense, it's a beautiful finish, just a bit of extra work for etching, but no worries :)


I was able to remove the non-conductive layer by sanding it and refinishing it using the method that SparrowHawk suggested. It wasn't easy, since I cut out my shroud design already and it wasn't a solid tube. I suggest that you sand it to remove the non-conductive layer before cutting out your designs. It'll be much easier as a solid tube.

Glad to hear that sanding/polishing method worked out for you vieiv! A lot of elbow grease, by the sound of it. I'll be doing the same treatment soon, and I'll keep your advice on sanding before cutting out the shroud design in mind. Thanks for the tip! :D

[unclescary]

Sanded and polished the heck out of the sleeve material only to achieve crappy results for Acid etching . this is not Cool. Any word on MHS Sleeve 1 , the 4" Deep fluted double female threaded connector or the 4" Double Female Grooved with or without holes.

[hapki]

I know it's bad etiquette to necro post, but I was wondering if anyone has figured out a better solution to the shroud etching problem. I have tried both acid etching and electro etching on shroud material, but with poor results.

When I used muriatic acid, I got weird results. There was a tiny spot the size of a needle point that etched very deeply. The area around it didn't etch at all. Also, I didn't do such a great job masking the inside of the tube, and it bubbled like alka-seltzer in water. So, based on this, I decided that the outside has a coating, but it has tiny gaps.

When I used electro etching, I got nothing. I wonder if there's a chemical solution to this? Has anyone tried a stripper? (The chemical kind)

[Jediseth]

Just received some of the shroud material this last Saturday from TCSS, does anyone know if this is still an issue? Looking to do some etching. Thanks!

[jbkuma]

Best to clean and sand it anyway.

[gerrylum]

Never had any problem etching sleeve material using the salt-water etching technique. Can I ask what your set-up was like when you tried that?

[Jediseth]

Never had any problem etching sleeve material using the salt-water etching technique. Can I ask what your set-up was like when you tried that?

I'm not sure who your asking. I'm thinking of doing a muriatic acid etch.

[hapki]

I tried a muriatic acid etch, but the etch was very spotty. The finish on the shroud material is very shiny and smooth, but if there is etching to be done, that finished has to go. = sanding ... muriatic acid works great on brass though.

[Jediseth]

Good to know, thanks!