Where do you store your kill key?

[jbkuma]

I've searched and I've found some interesting and less interesting ideas in build threads, but there doesn't seem to be a thread discussing this topic specifically.

The biggest challenges are maintaining the aesthetic of the saber, while not losing the key. Ideally the storage option would be available whether or not the user is in costume, so I would tend to favor on-hilt solutions.

Ideas I have seen or come up with include:
- Second "charge port" that isn't connected to anything
- internal space in pommel (perhaps with dead charge port)
- pocket, pouch, or socket either in garment, belt, or other accessory
- hole or socket in Covertec belt clip, in a place that won't interfere with mechanism
- hole or socket in blade plug (to be stored where ever you are keeping your plug)
- the Covertec kill key available in the store which could be used in a dead port during on time.

For my current build, I am currently leaning toward storing it in a socket inside my blade plug. This is simply because it will then be large enough to not get lost when removed, and the plug would be with the hilt more often then not. My hilt does not really allow for another type of accessible on-hilt storage option, and this seems the next best thing.

I'm interested in seeing what other approaches people may have attempted or contemplated, even if they didn't work out. Knowing what doesn't work can be just as important for those exploring the potentials of hilt design!

[Cire Yeldarb]

I usually just keep mine in my house/car/pocket (wherever I took the saber from) as I don't often find the need to kill my saber in a moments notice. If I had that need however, I would personally go with the 2nd (decorative) charge plug method... if I wasn't wearing pockets most of the time anyways

[sgcdialler]

I've always made a hole in the bottom of my blade plugs to store kill keys in. That way, I can put the key in the blade plug, cover that with the blade cap, and drop it in my pocket as a self-contained object when I go out to take care of some Sith. I can also put the key in the plug and leave it hidden there if I want to put the saber in display mode.

[snilam]

I have a magic killkey goblin that takes them back to his secret lair after I set them down, and if i'm good he will put it in an odd place for me to find. That's my theory anyway.

[Greenie]

I have a magic killkey goblin that takes them back to his secret lair after I set them down, and if i'm good he will put it in an odd place for me to find. That's my theory anyway.

Ha ha! That pesky goblin! ;)

[.: SparrowHawk :.]

The biggest challenges are maintaining the aesthetic of the saber, while not losing the key. Ideally the storage option would be available whether or not the user is in costume, so I would tend to favor on-hilt solutions.

An interesting topic! And a fun design challenge. Like you, I like to maintain the "realism" of the saber, and the last thing I wanted was a plastic kill key throwing things off.

In my latest build, I made a custom kill key with the Kill Plug style 4 (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Kill-plug-style-4-P783.aspx) and a knurled nut and Allen drive cap screw I found at the hardware store (Lowes). Also some old bronze guitar string, the small brass beads at the ends of guitar strings, and a small triangle-ring from an old flashlight.


http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g67/BinarySunsetDesign/c7058726-c7af-47e6-b038-de2ebe4af8cf_zpsirfqg3x8.jpg (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/BinarySunsetDesign/media/c7058726-c7af-47e6-b038-de2ebe4af8cf_zpsirfqg3x8.jpg.html)

I had to sand down the inside of the knurled nut a bit to get the kill plug in, and then epoxy holds it in solidly. The cap screw holds the wire in place, which is threaded with the brass beads, and the triangle-ring (which has a split like a D-ring) pinches into the beads. It can clip to a small keychain or carabiner on your Jedi/Sith belt so it doesn't get lost. And the triangle-ring can swivel, so it's low profile when in the recharge port.

jbkuma, I really like your idea of some kind of socket or hole in the hilt body to store the kill key securely! It's something I've been thinking about too. Here are a few quick models I made of a kill plug that's mounted into a knurled thumbscrew, which could then be screwed into an empty place in the hilt body (or pommel) when the saber is in use (images are clicky):


1416114159141561415514158

What do you think?

[jbkuma]

Here's a shot of my kill key in the pommel and in my prototype blade plug. The screw will be replaced when I find something I like better, for now it's fairly innocuous.
1416314164


I have a magic killkey goblin that takes them back to his secret lair after I set them down, and if i'm good he will put it in an odd place for me to find. That's my theory anyway.
My life seems to be infested with particularly greedy goblins! This was more or less the impetus for my creation of the post.



jbkuma, I really like your idea of some kind of socket or hole in the hilt body to store the kill key securely! It's something I've been thinking about too. Here are a few quick models I made of a kill plug that's mounted into a knurled thumbscrew, which could then be screwed into an empty place in the hilt body (or pommel) when the saber is in use (images are clicky):
...
What do you think?

Nice concept. This can clear pretty much all of the requirements. If you sink the charge port a bit, the charger should be able to clear the threads while charging. You could have two caps, one with the kill key, and one just a cap and swap their positions as necessary. I like it.

[NanoRex]

I am crazy scared that I will lose mine. I think on all future sabers I will have a kill switch instead of a kill key. Pololu has some nice latching switch PCBs similar to the momentary to latching coverters in the store that will allow the use of a small low-profile latching switch as a kill switch.

[Silver Serpent]

Well, the converters in the store ARE the Pololu boards, so I'd imagine they're pretty similar. :)

I don't know how much power they draw when idle, so the battery may drain over time.

Edit: store page says they draw less than 0.01 μA, so it's negligible.

[hapki]

I don't remember. So I always have to order more.

[.: SparrowHawk :.]

Here's a shot of my kill key in the pommel and in my prototype blade plug. The screw will be replaced when I find something I like better, for now it's fairly innocuous.

Ah, I see, that's a great place to store it! I also really like that blade plug design, nice details there. Can't wait to see more from your build process.


Nice concept. This can clear pretty much all of the requirements. If you sink the charge port a bit, the charger should be able to clear the threads while charging. You could have two caps, one with the kill key, and one just a cap and swap their positions as necessary. I like it.

That's a good idea, having the recharge port recessed for charging clearance. And the two caps that could be swapped would be great too, then the recharge port could be protected from dust/accidental moisture and the like. I'll try to update this design and see if a prototype can be made. Thanks for the feedback! :)

[NanoRex]

Well, the converters in the store ARE the Pololu boards, so I'd imagine they're pretty similar. :)

I don't know how much power they draw when idle, so the battery may drain over time.

Edit: store page says they draw less than 0.01 μA, so it's negligible.

I was aware of that; the ones I'm referring to are the latching-to-latching companion variants ;)

[NaasadTal]

While I was researching my Starkiller build, I found this pic:

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p244/R1-Alchemist/Screenshot_2016-06-25-19-44-24.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/R1-Alchemist/media/Screenshot_2016-06-25-19-44-24.jpg.html)

I assumed that the piece I circled in red was a kill key of sorts. It looks like it was made out of an old charging cable so I doubt that would really work as a kill key, but it gave me an idea for how to keep track of my kill key when I need it. You just clip it to your belt & have it when you need it.

[CET]

While I was researching my Starkiller build, I found this pic:

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p244/R1-Alchemist/Screenshot_2016-06-25-19-44-24.jpg (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/R1-Alchemist/media/Screenshot_2016-06-25-19-44-24.jpg.html)

I assumed that the piece I circled in red was a kill key of sorts. It looks like it was made out of an old charging cable so I doubt that would really work as a kill key, but it gave me an idea for how to keep track of my kill key when I need it. You just clip it to your belt & have it when you need it.

One of my sabers has an old charge plug as a kill key.

Personally I leave my kill keys at home or in the car. The button light only draws 20mA, which is negligible and it goes onto deep sleep mode after being off for a few minutes.

[KnightRevan]

Has anyone tried making a tcss kill key work similar to the kill keys that come with the goth 3D chassis? I was planning on making one but haven't gotten around to it yet.

[rlobrecht]

I suspect you could dremel out a channel. The tricky part would be figuring out exactly where.

[jbkuma]

I figured I'd sum up some posts from other threads and put this here in case someone looks for this later.

Here is a photo of a prototype blade plug with kill key storage. In later versions I essentially potted in the charge port with hot glue to both help diffuse the LED and better secure the charge port. You'll want to either tape around or shrink tube the port in order to ensure hot glue does not seep in through the holes in the port. I'm sure a clear epoxy or casting plastic will work for this as well. You could even tint the epoxy or plastic if you wanted.
http://i.imgur.com/lEb19NZl.jpg


It is possible to make the kill key an integral part of your saber that only needs to be removed for charging. The key can be rotated to activate the saber. You may still want to figure out a place to store the key during charging or heavy dueling, but this can at least keep it safe during display and light use.

The switch for the switch craft style charge ports is approximately in the middle. If you use a depth gauge (there should be one on the back end of your caliper if you have one), you can easily find the exact depth of the top of the switch. If not, you can also insert your key until you feel it touch, that you can measure off how much was inside for your depth. Once you have the location you can use a file to cut a wedge out of your key. The wedge shape will allow the switch to help retain your key. I recommend taking it slowly and testing it as you go to get it down to the point where it just allows the saber to activate. This will make it easier to rotate the key in the charge port. There will be a subtle tactile response when the key is in the "on" position.

You should be able to modify any of the TCSS keys in a similar way. With the Covertec style kill key you will probably want to pay attention to the orientation of the switch in the port, and the curve of the knob. You can pull it out and reinsert it 180degrees in order to switch between on and off. Below are some shots of my key and my pommel. The key is made from a 6-32 thumb screw and a tube from a mechanical pencil. If you are making your own key, you will want to make sure your key doesn't short the port by contacting the pin to the sleeve.
http://i.imgur.com/VVThk3nl.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/U9ocyWYl.jpg

[Thorvindr]

Yup. I keep my kill key right in the charging port wjere it belongs. I don't call it a "kill key" anymore. It's an ignition switch.