Help with Tree-cree RGB

[darth_dave]

Hi guys,

sorry if i do the same question, but i can't find the answer.

I bought Tri-Cree XP-E RGB

I bought resistors for this configuration

Blue 3.1 volt 350mA - 1.8 ohm 1/2 W
Green 3.3 volt @350 mA - 1.2 ohm 1/4 W
Red 2.1 volt @350 mA - 4.7 ohm 1 W

and for

Blue 3.5 volt @1000 mA - 1 ohm 2 W
Red 2.3 volt 700 mA - 2.2 ohm 2 W


I used one battery 18650 with 3,7 volts

I tried to use a multimeter in series after the led, to check mA, but i get lower values. For example: Red with 4,7 ohm i had only 220 mA.

Can you check if it's All correct?

Thanks

[Greenie]

You should be running those LEDs at 1000mA. Re-calculate your resistor values. Blues and greens will be closer to 0.5ohms and reds 1.2ohms with a single 3.7v battery set up. :)

[darth_dave]

Hi Greenie, thanks for your reply!


I can't use red led with 1000mA, but only at 700mA right? (3.7-2.3)/0.700= 2 ohm or i'm doing something wrong?

This is from manual.
Forward voltage (@ 350 mA) - royal blue, blue V 3.1 -
Forward voltage (@ 350 mA) - green V 3.3
Forward voltage (@ 350 mA) - amber, red-orange, red, photo red V 2.1
Forward voltage (@ 700 mA) - red-orange, red, photo red V 2.3
Forward voltage (@ 1000 mA) - white, royal blue, blue V 3.5
Forward voltage (@ 1000 mA) - green V 3.8

Thanks a lot man

[Greenie]

That is not the same as the specification for a tri Cree RGB as shown at TCSS


Green Cree Part# XPEBGR-L1-0000-00G01
130 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 350mA
Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.58v

Red Cree Part# XPEBRD-L1-0000-00901
80.6 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 350mA
Forward Voltage @1000mA = 2.59v

Royal Blue Cree Part# XPEBRY-L1-0000-00R01
625mW Minimum Radiant Flux @ 350mA
Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.41v

:mrgreen:

[darth_dave]

YEah, this is another version.

I bought the led here (https://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-LEDs-Cree/CREE-XP-Series/CREE-XP-E-RGB-Star-LT-1589_120_138.html)

My problem now is with optics, i ordered the same of TCSS but it not fit leds layout

[FenixFire]

http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED-Components-and-Modules/XLamp/XLamp-Application-Notes/LM80_Results.pdf

Cree XLamps can be driven to 1000mA per CREE test documentation. (edit: See page 68 for the reference to red max current testing)

Optics look like they will be an issue regardless with that specific layout as the LED placements looks different than most stars. You will most likely need to find an optic from the same supplier that built the board. Looks like there is only one option for a tri-color mixing set-up but its for the rebel leds, board is probably the same but LEDs might be off slightly due to design differences of the dice. Also with the tighter spacing of the dice, cooling properties on the board might not be as good as the synk or synk II so might not want to run them at max.

[darth_dave]

Hi FenixFire, thanks for your reply.

Very good news, thanks. I had read another document.

Unfortunately the manufacturer told me that an adequate lens does not exist. My mistake when i ordered leds and lens.

I decided to return the two rgb led and buying new ones here (https://www.ledsupply.com/rgb-high-power-leds). In this case there will be no problems.

For use at 3.7, 3000 mAh, which of these models could be better? I will use at maximum 2 simultaneous led

In the case in which the battery, fully charged, provides 4.5 v, it can create problems?
Should I calculate the value of the resistance at 4.5V?

Thanks a lor for your support, i readed all forum but i have many doubts.

[FenixFire]

This one. Then you can order the thermal tape, lense, and the heatsink module from one place saving on shipping.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/RedGreenRoyal-Blue-Cree-XP-E2-CopperNova-P1016.aspx
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Cree-Tri-XP-E2-C138.aspx
If building your own hilt: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Blade-Holders-non-MHS-C15.aspx
If building an mhs hilt: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-Heat-Sink-V3-P782.aspx

[darth_dave]

Thanks a lot man. Very gentle

the new LED is to replace a little powerful LED in a Ultrasaber.

About the question of 4.5 volt, what can i do?

At ledsupply site i saving a lot of money to deliver in Italy, it's only for this reason

[FenixFire]

Figuring for the 4.5 would be safe, but I think the general rule is to calculate at 3.7.

I figured that was the case, but if you end up also needing the LED holder/Heatsink it might be worth not paying two shipping costs.

Have you tried to remove the LED from the US holder yet? I do not have experience but from the reviews and conversion threads I have seen, they hot glue everything in place and it is fairly difficult to re-use the LED holder and Heat Sink. Several people most in 2012-2014 discovered that instead aluminum or copper as a heatsink they used a steal hex nut attached to the LED star by surrounding it with hot glue. That is something you will want to replace with a proper heat sink attached to the LED with either thermal tape, thermal glue, or thermal past.

Also while you have the saber open, check all electrical connections, that are accessible, for other common wiring shortcuts and possible bare wiring on connections.

[darth_dave]

The Lightsaber is already disassembled. About the LED holder, i can use what's already there. Fortunately I should be okay for the assembly.
I bought the thermal paste and adhesive on the site where I took the RGB LED. I just have to change the LED model.

The plan would be to use the microswitches as in the picture and mix the 3 colors in a different way, each color with two different value for resistors, and the ability to change color using internal microswitch. Then I will use those "molex" type cables for connection.

Not having to buy the holder, I could save money on the other website

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