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CET
05-31-2016, 06:21 PM
I've been pondering the concept for a little while now of how an RGB string blade could work. I'm a fan of the consistency of string blades, but have been pondering how I could get the full use out of more advanced boards, like the CF.

Basic LED blades usually require a ladder of LEDs, but how could that work with 4 legs? I'm still pretty new to string blades in general, so this is definitely going to be a work in progress, and not a build log.

The legs are not trimmed or reinforced at all at this point, they are simply bent and crimped together.

I've become fond of crimping as far away from the joint as possible to create a hinge, which allows the LED to move around. I then weave a very high gauge wire to keep consistent contact up and down the string while keeping that flexibility. I've had very good success with this process and made blades that can go into the heaviest duels with no issues. I'm not sure how well this "hinge" concept will work with 4 legs, because they're going in 4 different directions, creating more of a cage than a ladder. Just playing with it I can feel a little big of flex. Hopefully this will give my blades the kind of resiliency I've been able to develop in the past.

RGB String Blade - Google Photos (https://goo.gl/photos/TaRAPVS6Z3mecehEA)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gsdc_zQk2gal2upf0ZSbP1E3qgqAd8ukz69I08hF6TiguNBcOF Jk300e9dar5w5i6RRBMWz6qsuCh4jfgNyOgxlfRx0wtgL6s48w ghDvj1n6zgPEU9J52fsTmIj-hcXoPsdgSiecN8qOokpAo1OH7vgwUfV0bng3Z6UUZfXEb7yqMR Qfn5t_QL9LprwdZdOLygO0K9WexAZdPYpEMXKX-2ZpU6n9i0DVeuWCMsv4RamTqrbl9TN322BWByCyU1EmsyM-2cL0fGsesx-JEVsS7J_A0SUwuBXfj7s80b45YBPyfaRynZ66GaOf6tvNUS7qb-EcqiIxlmx1Muydzggsftic81r6n3YegaaJ8K3DQPV3ZzvipCXi p9zC07sjEeko_dKYK6--w21-Zf4L-7TPFa5TT106bcm85gUxEjld4Z2jIe5rCjUh7DwxMlAcsVLrChn kdPOg1FfI6GTrOElHvzmUKSLpitCDNaWj-cz05nhtJP86DyIhRDX81K-e8bKPgFK0zn6-LnQ84dsnIBjeqJQVAePOMl3aKuONT4CSXqr0VgK1z4Ne_i0-GaCFyNbtXwG0-oC2nwyUYlhnlrsl2_UZMf33mgzL=w1366-h417-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e8Qv8kUuIA2OgDy8DxPMVVSVY285rOTAhRZnrc42IPY99i7VgT agDgHsD8CmSnzCl_kFl0AG4TIFnJMHTBkq1WQiNQ1log7foVsK 88HJU_790yYgAKqLHbeenOmqA4XtM5f9ih-4yKAXCUsSCevmlcKDveDzKzKC1wKTtZANgQ66qmh-F2S7R4YNNCkAmUoR2iqtRdcNx3Q9JQDUlhCz_-j4qdHIznlS9-j9tYhRdZLA0RPf_7ulrqBQInobe6KCPiHdPhczW2yM0n01JHsl IVBTLIYlb90_Di4f1Eu8IjWHgCNrFqyRdDY2MSs2laPMIB0X3L lvxtw36a2v3OtnGBMOFHn3zyktdWCWPZUprKSC150rpN1rLvjO B39nLogKKiNsndBqrvz_oK0ecZFQ88SIuUQYKDuBtT96SChGnk i-YcNCC3Fr6K3taKElQt0x0Egd_kY6FVtXFtkBer0per1wqqii1z XAPevAVjAPEmCM05903XlcJjc2ySjQsxu6UqGO0MkbrMJyPc_a 9BfndonasYre8jBZqgPQmsDdR8S__0JNpAFtfG1JB_fSIvzjZV t0zTDTLdwQF6Xx9AUG2gFmllAjlyv5=w1089-h367-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fwh2J_7JkHb67oWXS2EiuaCjfQYPHomxyzY-eF3bRH13Lr96MuzaAPIjous9lPz29dnXPlL86MtVFx8UfA7Tuu-JBYRsQSgfN4_OqXxGjENhUIs7t4GDI5HNqDJTJNAISm77YTu19 ynTGnIH1LfiBB7ig53thWx9mhaUA0cNn4PXQspTx0PoqY4yh1w XiQGvZ93efgz9nue8BErxAUUZPreiC2b4h9m2ff-bcd4_KXPflqt4beqoIwVHwu4G3qRen_MR0bMhfGQ-taVUX-ZBeRACC8moeFVmDxKhmMx4Ro7Am7Fpn0GhS-yvR6iBGqY9_kFDeLkEGJl-hLk124cYofaZC9MWt7o1RPtaDLxKRvy6JShN8bu2beTuD1mHa2 22m-BFdSXFzcxad5aXlF9jHuDBX3RHli6oJtYcZ7Z6y2tU6eeVYAR8 nOtpGyTdXwTsy6cebJ6aqG8nrLiVzX1CVTMyzKvvSrZr22KIob 0JJSCNrf2ddd7T3dATAmdLMGFjXAHMyWDIbD6lLjPuDGjeIpPe S6JYQ_Tf6cacW5mcREoMERIrd6Qbl_I0q2V7J9WeqMlaDmtLKb KQXCVWJNsDrCcHDhmXg5k8=w994-h382-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/l5evVlNkvtB53R8Yfrius0RgvxsqQmMmxoafHRRvhKx79Uiyga JEHU6kg_2FE1tGZYuSMs9kxTtGxO_ohD2v12upOqneb5A5fv3d Z9PWTG3btnKDoD4lg539-4KQdb6RqErVDK4GgjbSTjB2BrBCA8PgzvO8AcZv--2mg3oOez2PkCWBUasYycfW_g4FiyOYc-dnhOtTQp0GgSC0TMcDhiLfgkQjUBQX--0MJqIgdNgRmzB9d-9CLUbsTATtSmDwtYkFIPZpQkoAOt_jD4Eyve1hGsGjtW0hPGSA t1D9z96HvjEYdLksxmkdqnyomF9sKZjH9yZzWIp9QGRgMyf0wj fgrdpXZSSnsgcimmNdSEpA2mSR1xs-SfKuJtg6FP1SEiu3JzoxwAGm67Q061SKguEzSKuXvmh058EeZw P_O8fNVqLbJGSdMiex37I7ViVqM8cz0_e7utHH5OVcLl2Dcfnl TM47fPKbYduPEv5Zvp4LN9ZWwIN3OClOBedfUc3CCJFkJxMGBr uS_l7U4z2d96d-GWVoM_jWi3cZluu2-PJ705WJu5X7HaGlH6gHgU5W4G56DIa3frADL03Zif737rSGGDV VjB7S=w1353-h463-no

FenixFire
05-31-2016, 09:32 PM
Images did not come through. I wonder if there would be a way to make a Thin polypropylene ladder structure that would "lock" the LEDs in place, then solder thin gauge wire between the connectors. Then still clear or translucent white heat shrink over them. I know I saw a product that did this several years ago, but can't think of what it was in. Or if one could build their own smd led based string on a flexible board like the 12v strips...obviously this would require 2 strips back to back.

CET
05-31-2016, 09:49 PM
Images did not come through.

Thank you, the album wasn't set to public. Should be visible now.

Richei Blasto
06-02-2016, 03:35 AM
Still not visible :(

CET
06-02-2016, 09:08 PM
I just added a link to the album. If the images aren't visible, the album is public.

FenixFire
06-02-2016, 09:19 PM
Great work. Are those top hat or flat LEDs?

CET
06-02-2016, 10:37 PM
Thanks. They're flat LEDs. I've been using them exclusively for string blades recently because I can stack multiple strings easily, and I can get more wrapping on them for better protection and diffusion.

I still haven't come up with a good solution for plugging them into the emitter. That's where they're the weakest for me. Otherwise, they're surprisingly robust. I've done plenty of dueling and had no problems with the LED ladders themselves.

Richei Blasto
06-03-2016, 03:42 AM
Great to see your photos - thanks!

I'm pondering a string blade or single LED conversion for my 2004 MR Luke ESB, including a removable blade. I think the usual approach at least for for a sequentially lit string blade is using an 8-pin DIN plug and socket, with the usually metal cased female end bushed into the blade, and the (often plastic) male plug bolted or bonded into the base of the blade holder (but I could be wrong about which way round they are usually used). The push fit between the blade and the holder keeps things tight and reduces the stresses in the connection if you want to duel.

Would something like that work for you? Even if you're not using sequential ignition, I imagine it would be more reliable than something like a 6.5mm headphone plug.

Richei Blasto
06-03-2016, 03:54 AM
D'oh - just saw your posts on the other thread about plug options.

FenixFire
06-03-2016, 05:15 AM
How many connection pins do yo need? I'll keep an eye out.

CET
06-03-2016, 07:16 AM
How many connection pins do yo need? I'll keep an eye out.

I assume I'll need 4, one for each post. Ultimately I'd like to use a PC or CF.

FenixFire
06-03-2016, 11:18 AM
I assume I'll need 4, one for each post. Ultimately I'd like to use a PC or CF.

So straight ignition no sequencing. I'll keep an eye out. Would you want a simple push/pull or do you want a push/twist bayonet style?

CET
06-04-2016, 11:41 AM
Just a simple push/pull, thank you.

jbkuma
06-04-2016, 02:03 PM
So straight ignition no sequencing. I'll keep an eye out. Would you want a simple push/pull or do you want a push/twist bayonet style?
An 8 pin bayonet style would solve multiple design challenges for me, but I've never seen such a thing in my searches. Does such a thing exist?

FenixFire
06-04-2016, 08:39 PM
They do exist, though price is usually the issue. Medical sub-miniature connectors. Either press-snap or 1/4 turn bayonet, 1/2" diameter and 2 - 8 pins.