Green 3up Tri Cree in series power

[Hazard]

Lurking noob in need of help... I've searched and seem similar questions, but don't think I've seen a specific answer to this.

Recently received a 3up Cree XPE2 Green LED, in hopes of replacing a Tri-Blazing Red LED. What I didn't know was that I inadvertently selected this LED to be wired IN SERIES. It's done in a way that I don't think I can separate them to run parallel (without ruining the LED).

Forward voltage for Green:

@350mA: 3.2 to 3.8 max
@1000mA: 3.7 volts

At first, I tried powering this with just 4AAA alkalines. Of course it barely gave off a glow.

From what I *think I understand*, since its "in series" it requires in the neighborhood of 11volts to light up?

What battery/batteries (and resistor?) would provide the power needed - or is there even such a thing that would fit in saber hilt?

[darth_chasm]

Welcome.

11.1 volts minimum for yor battery if you want to run them at 1 amp. 4AA is only 6, hence the dimness. Your resistor depends on your battery voltage so you really can't calculate that until you find a battery.

On that note, TCSS's highest voltage batteries are 7.4 volts. So unfortunately you're on your own finding a suitable one.

[Hazard]

I vaguely figured that, lol. Thank you for the confirmation, appreciated. Guess finding an 11 volt battery will be quite a trick.

[Don Se Wion]

Post a close-up picture of your led, perhaps there is a chance for any easy fix.
Sometimes the tri-LED PCB have some jumpers to connect in series the LEDs, removing could possibly solve your problem.

[Silver Serpent]

You can build your own 3-cell li-ion pack, though you'll want to find a PCB for your pack. They're available if you Google a bit.

[NanoRex]

Post a close-up picture of your led, perhaps there is a chance for any easy fix.
Sometimes the tri-LED PCB have some jumpers to connect in series the LEDs, removing could possibly solve your problem.

This is probably the case. I have an LED that I ordered that has a jumper I need to remove because there was a mistake with the order (not from TCSS). It's a simple matter of un-bridging two pads on the PCB.

[Hazard]

Will post when I get home. Meanwhile, I found a LiPo 11.1v, but have never really seen mention of such batteries for saber use. It has some funky connectors on it, but seems like it may have the juice. Anyone have experience with such things?

Still, will take a look at the LED when I get home... Thanks!

[Hazard]

Here it is... I see the jumpers you mention. Possible to break them?14030

[darth_chasm]

Ah, I see. Sorry, I've never had those led's so I wasn't aware. Looks like you can just desolder them. It may be tough to do that though. It looks like the star is attached to a heat sink. If so remove the star first then desolder.

[Richei Blasto]

As Silver Serpent suggested, 3 x 3.7v li-ions in series such as the 18650 would be a good choice if they're smaller and/or cheaper than the 11.1v liPo, but I understand the 18650s pump out about 4.2v when fully charged so you may want to add a resistor for insurance. Check the specs on the LiPo (if you go with that) for the same potential issue. Ha - my best pun of the day!

[Don Se Wion]

Here it is... I see the jumpers you mention. Possible to break them?14030

Yes, those are the jumpers, if you remove them you can wire all three dies directly.
I see the PCB already has +/- signs for proper wiring, the correct +/- pairs are the pads on left and right of each LED.
This should solve your problem.

[Hazard]

Good one! Thanks for the info, appreciated!!