Luxeon Tri rebel question

[Terin]

I ordered up a 07007-PE000-K Luxeon - Endor Star tri Cyan LED and was looking for some help as to wiring it up, I would like to just run all 3 LEDs at the same time, to increase brightness, but I didn't have any luck in tracking down a wiring diagram for it. I would like to use a 3 AAA battery supply and a 2015 econo board, but saw a post stating that they couldn't handle running the 3? any help would be appreciated as how to wire, and run the LEDs from the board.
image of the board with battery pack.
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[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

That setup will only run one of the three Tri-Rebel Die.

[Terin]

What is needed in order to run all 3 simultaneously? Can it be done with the sound? I couldn't find a diagram to run all 3 without sound. Could that be done with a puck?

[Silver Serpent]

You will need a stronger power source. 3 AAA batteries will not provide the 3A of current you'd need to run all three LED dice.

A single 18650 li-ion cell could power all three dice if they were wired in parallel.

[FenixFire]

That setup will only run one of the three Tri-Rebel Die.

FJK, That is not entirely true, but from experimenting is the best method. I as well as the several smiths who helped work through the wiring and experimentation have 2 of the dies being successfully driven to achive a mixed color and even a pseudo FoC effect. The schematics are listed on the econo build thread and my Ezra saber build. The LED issues I was having have been resolved with the change to the 3.7 rechargeable, because of the second part of what you said.

You will need to use the PNP-MOSFET method to direct drive the Dice from the battery and use the board to power the gates on the MOSFETS. This is because the boards are designed to provide the current to either a single LED in the collapsible bladed saber or a series of 5mm LEDs in the string blades. Neither of which are close to the 700 mA - 1000 mA of Rebels. You will need a PNP style MOSFET model number TIP42 C (or G) for each die. Also you will need to heat shrink the entire MOSFET so it does not short against the hilt or the other MOSFET. 3 AAA will give a relatively short battery life. I highly recommend the 3.7 rechargeable from the shop, it will resolve future headaches trust me, it will also require smaller resistors. With the AAA once the voltage drops to bellow 4v the amperage output also drops and the saber will shut down due to insufficient current flow. If you add a switch that allows power to one of the Dice to be cut you can extend the use time, though only with single die. For instance you will have 15-25 minutes (depending on battery brand) of purple run time, and an additional 40 minutes or so of Blue run time.

To get the blade-on/blade-off and FoC effect as well as a slight blade flicker wire one MOSFET to the LED- on the board and the other to the speaker- on the board. Best practice would be to completely de-solder all factory wires and replace with 28 guage stranded wire. On the the newer sabers, at least the 2014 Ezra Bridger, the factory wire is very cheap and only has 8 almost microscopic strands of very brittle copper in it. Also the solder pads for the factory speaker are also very delicate and can be pulled off the speaker ridiculously easy. After ruining the factory one I hot glued the leads to the back of the magnet once they were soldered in place.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You're basically assuming that everyone knows about the use of PNP MOSFETs, etc and can or would be willing to do fairly heavy modifications to boards. You also made my point about the power constraints of AAA batteries.

[FenixFire]

If they use a collapsible model they could do it with 0 board modification if they opt not to rewire. Its as simple as (1.) tear the donor saber in half (2.) cut the wires (3.) layout the components next to the new hilt (4.) Splice in 28 ga wire where needed (5.) test it (6.) Install it in the Hilt (7.) Re wire anything you disconnected to install into hilt (8.) Ignite it. With the exception of salvaging the board it is fairly straight forward, and for a beginner messing up a $15 or less scavenged board is easier to stomach than a $65 NB.

The PNP method if very easy to find if you look in the Economy section of any saber building forum. Its linked in the 2nd post to the Stickied tear down guide on this forum.

The LI-Ion is the best power source, I was just pointing out there are many ways to skin the cat depending on what sacrifices and compromises you are willing to make. I mean that's product development 101, balancing the performance, cost, usability, manufacturing constraints and compromises. You never know what the builders motivations, restrictions, or acceptable compromises are, so the best practice may not be the best fit for a specific individual or situation.

[Terin]

So essentially I treat this as if I were wiring the single Luxeon rebel to the econo board via a PNP. Like this wiring diagram http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a233/Matthew_D_G/PicsArt_1446776017018_zpsfy975ot1.jpg
I just need to do it 3 times, once for each LED. I don't need the 5v regulator as its redundant though?

[FenixFire]

Basically yes from what i was told when I started building my first saber for my son. You can try 1 PNP for all three, as I do not recall if that was confirmed to work or not. Most of what I have seen, because it was what I was going for was to do 1 from the board and 1 from the speaker. The MOSFETS are not that expensive around $.50 just pick up three, wire everything up except the Board --> MOSFET --> LED connection. Be sure to wire the resistors to the LEDs before testing.

Here (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?10288-2010-Electronic-Lightsaber-w-DVD-Tutorial) is a link to the full evolution of the process

[Terin]

Yeah the local electronics store had them i believe. your link did not come through unfortunately.

[FenixFire]

If you don't want to rewire the board, or remove the existing led you can just solder the wire to the (-) leg of the LED

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?10288-2010-Electronic-Lightsaber-w-DVD-Tutorial