darth maul and obi-wan fx saber convertions

[LAN-ED-TUL]

ok, whos done the obi-wan and maul fx convertions?

i know we have a pic tut. on the maul, but we need to get a blow by blow for those shots, cuz i aint got a clue whether to pry, or what here and there,

and the obi needs a blow by blow soon too.

i want to get my wife either a maul, or a mace, and i think the mace is pretty well shown, but if i do a maul, a double, i need to know more on the rip down and reassembly, and if tim has a blade holder for the maul or obi-wans yet.

[james3]

The Maul is actually really easy to break down Lan. The ONLY funky thing to me was popping the pin and prying off the red cap on the on/off switch. The cap is just that, a thin cap so push the pin just in enough to clear and work slowly around the cap prying it off. It is globbed with that MR gooey snot that they love so much. really other then that it is unscrew and pop exactly like what we discussed when JTsteph did his way back.

I still have not picked up an Obi-Wan. Hope this at least helped a little.

[Lord Maul]

someone did an obiwan conversion a while back.... it's in the gallery. he's the only one other than ultra that i know of who's done that conversion

[xwingband]

I hear it disassembles like the Luke. Take off the box and that's probably half the battle.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

The Maul is actually really easy to break down Lan. The ONLY funky thing to me was popping the pin and prying off the red cap on the on/off switch. The cap is just that, a thin cap so push the pin just in enough to clear and work slowly around the cap prying it off. It is globbed with that MR gooey snot that they love so much. really other then that it is unscrew and pop exactly like what we discussed when JTsteph did his way back.

I still have not picked up an Obi-Wan. Hope this at least helped a little.


ok, that helps along with the tut. pics, but what are we using for the blade holders, and mounts for luxeons on both the obi and maul sabers?

i think i have her convinced to grab a mace off ebay, so im probably looking to convert a mace for her to a royal blue, thats the color she wants.

but myself, if i come across a good deal on a obi, i want one, and want to do the convert on it, just wondered what was used for the holder/lux mounts on obi and mauls?

[xwingband]

Just the stock stuff on both, no one has any kits. It's not that bad on the Obi and Maul. Both are all metal up to the end so it's decent support.

You could just mount the custom heatsink and be done with it. It's small enough to throw in there and use a couple setscrews to prevent it from moving.

[Strydur]

Obi kits are designed and will feature the new heatsink. Its actually a pretty easy saber to take apart.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

the obi kits are good news, and now with corbin coming in to the shop, he might get a maul holder and heatsink designed.

so for right now, im lookin on ebay right now for a mace for the wife to convert.

i can bide my time a bit longer for the obi kit to be sold, and maybe a maul as well, then grab 1 of each.

oh, yeah, corbin told bout his coming in here over on theforce.net

[LAN-ED-TUL]

well i just got her a mace off ebay for 92 bucks. thats the cheapest i seen right now. might could of got one cheaper a lil ways back, but i wasnt lookin for one then, lol


edit:

i just ordered and paid for the parts i need for the mace convert. she wanted a royal blue so i got a L 3 royal blue. i hope its bright enough.

now its waitin time for all of it to come in and then start in. i have a lil question on it tho, the 3 new setscrews that are in the kits, do you have to loosen/tighten those screws to take the blade in and out?

that mean, shes gonna have to carry a allen wrench around with her? or can one of those screws be a thumbscrew instead? thats the only part of the convert im not sure on. and if those are the blade screws, she gonna have to do all three or just one to get it in and out?

she said for her it wouldnt be a big deal to carry a allen around in her pocket. just need to know how to work it to show and tell her.

[Strydur]

Just because I dont stock them I can get all MR products at wholesale. Drop me a email before you buy one someplace else and I might be able to get you a decent price. Hopefully I will start stocking them all soon.

[DACOTA]

Well no matter what im going to convert my maul so im gonn a order my leds and stuff today,then I will get a conversion kit from you Tim when you have them,if cd dosen't make mine by then.I cant wait!

[vortextwist]

Just because I dont stock them I can get all MR products at wholesale. Drop me a email before you buy one someplace else and I might be able to get you a decent price. Hopefully I will start stocking them all soon.

really, so how about the Yoda?

and lan, yes those hold the blade in. they are also metric so you will need a metric alen wrench. hey also will she do alot of twirling with it? If so you may want to reverse the switch so it won't shut off as easy. I seen someone did that but I already had mine done and I wasn't takin it apart again. good luck.

[Strydur]

I will get some yodas as soon as they are available to me.

[Lord Maul]

it was hajime who first did the obi wan with a aluminum blade holder. his pics are like 4 posts from the bottom. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=702&start=0

[Hajime]

Like Tim said its easy to take apart.I would wait on his kit to make it an easy convert.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

well crud, i wished i knew that before hand. i paid 92 total for a mace, shippin and all, how much would you of gotten a mace for, tim?

ive seen a few obi's on ebay goin for just under the 105 mark.

and the mauls, i seen a couple go for 150 to 170 there too.

and those parts arrived today from tim, dang man, that was super fast. 2 days, a speed record.

thanks for the metric allen tip on the collar screws, do you have to use all 3 to tighten down and loosen the blade? or just one of them?

[vortextwist]

you might be able to only use one. I would atleast have the othe 2 right close though.
edit: oh make sure you tap the holes for those, I tried to just push through and recut the threads and ended up messin it up so the blade is real hard to get in and out.

[Yoiaholic]

you might be able to only use one. I would atleast have the othe 2 right close though.
edit: oh make sure you tap the holes for those, I tried to just push through and recut the threads and ended up messin it up so the blade is real hard to get in and out.

Just sand the inside of the holder where the hole has burrs.

[Ryma Mara]

No the blade holder for his mace bent when he went to cut the threads in the blade holder with a set screw like the faq suggests you do.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

thanks for the tips, i think i will have to get a tap, im not sure if i have one that size, but i will see.

i might try running 2 of them flush on inside, and use one for blade hold, and see if its gonna stay, im thinking tho, with them that small, i may have to have her use 2 to hold it good.

[Strydur]

I would think the reason it bent is that the holes where not lined up correctly. When you use the screw to cut the threads you are cutting threads in the hilt section before you get to the blade holder so if outer and inner holes are drilled to the same size and lined up correctly I dont see how it could bend the holder. But stranger things have happened.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

i'll just have to be real careful when i get to that point of drilling and tapping the holes.

[vortextwist]

it proly would not have bent it but I put the gold ring on and then tried to cut them, I should have just left the ring off and then cut the threads with the set screw. Little things you learn and hopefully don't do it again.

[Strydur]

No!! dont try and do it without the gold ring on otherwise when you go to screw it all together the threads wont match up.

The best way is to just get the tap :D

[vortextwist]

well I don't know how things could have gotten off? I put in the blade holder and drilled right where the marks from the other set screws were. oh well, mine is done and i'm happy.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

sabers in and i will start in on it in the morning after work tonight.

[vortextwist]

May the Dark side of the force be with you 8)

[LAN-ED-TUL]

thanks, im hopin it all goes well.

[DACOTA]

The best way is to just get the tap :D

I agree with Tim the best way is to tap it,it was not a set screw but ive tried to make a screw fit in a non tapped hole, it dosnt work all tht well.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

well its done. had a couple small things happen. somehow i lost one of the pins that hold the end coupler part. so i made one from a graflex spare pin i had, worked almost like it was made for it when i was done.

the switch plate isnt sittin down on there like it was before, raised just a tiny lil bit, not flush with surface, but it should be just fine.

the covertech knob wont tighten up snug, its still a lil bit loose, other than that, the wifes pleased as can be with her new royal blue mace saber, and also i just got her a full jedi upper costume off ebay. custom made just sent in the measurements.

get her some new boots make a run to tandy and dye a new belt and whip one out of it, and shes set, maybe make a robe too.



well, vistas on the shelves now, definately need to grab another 512 mem, and get a new graphics card, and i think i will be set. found out some info on the upgrade version, you can do a clean install without xp. theres a trick you do, install once, then do another, and it recognizes the vista from the 1st time, and clean installs it.

upgrades at wally worlkd for 160. gonna take a look at newegg and see if they have one there, i got this xp for 100 OEM full version.

later, all.

[vortextwist]

Great to hear. I think all the covertech knobs are loose, atleast mine are. not that it helps now but the hilt unscrews in the middle where the brass is.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

when i took mine off the knob was in 3 parts. the outer ring, inner ring(other half of knob), the brass cone shape thingy, and of course the screw.

i thought it was tighter when i started, but after i was done, i forgot if it was or not. its good enough to work ok, and if needbe, i could get a lil shorter screw and replace it, so it'll be tight.

the hard trick was scratch makin a new tiny pin, i lost somehow.
one minute it was there, and upon reassembly, bammm, one was gone.

i used a old graflex pin, i dremeled down to fit, ans when done, looked just like the original pin.

its been a looooong day for me, ive been up and awake now since 300 pm yesterday, no sleep yet.

[vortextwist]

oh wow. i would be one cranky bastard if i didn't sleep for that long. when ya gettin pics up :D

[LAN-ED-TUL]

i'll get some soon , and i will post them in my brotherhood vader thread.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

posted saber pics in gallery and my vader thread.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

ok gang, i just scored me a darth maul saber from borders. theyre running a 50% off sale on MR FX's. so total cost wass 108 bucks.

now i just need the conversion blade holder kits, and a blow by blow of disassembly and reassembly to go with the tutorial pics.

[vortextwist]

Taking apart is easy as pie. I have taken apart 3 and put back together 2. I just got my Maul's converted with metal blade holders (couldn't wait for Tim :cry: ) I'm sure tim's will be awsome. I found that a center punch works awsome for taking out those pesky pins (the kind like for shattering windsheilds :oops: )

[LAN-ED-TUL]

from what i read above, it seems pretty easy with the only tough part being the red knob pin and removal.


and assuming tims holders are similar to all the other ones he has, i guess i take the holder and place alongside the end like in a DV saber, and mark and cut off the end, notch the spots for the allen bolt heads, like a DV convert, and the wire hookup, is same as a DV saber.


which leaves me with another question, the long pin you drive out near the emitter end, does that go back in, or will the new holder be in the road so you cant? and if you cant replace that pin again, then what holds everything inside the hilt like before?

just tryin to understand everything so i wil be prepared when the holder kits are ready to sell.

[vortextwist]

from what i read above, it seems pretty easy with the only tough part being the red knob pin and removal.


and assuming tims holders are similar to all the other ones he has, i guess i take the holder and place alongside the end like in a DV saber, and mark and cut off the end, notch the spots for the allen bolt heads, like a DV convert, and the wire hookup, is same as a DV saber.


which leaves me with another question, the long pin you drive out near the emitter end, does that go back in, or will the new holder be in the road so you cant? and if you cant replace that pin again, then what holds everything inside the hilt like before?

just tryin to understand everything so i wil be prepared when the holder kits are ready to sell.

I'm doubting the long pin will go back in (depending on how long tim makes his holders) mine sit right at the hole. I also had to relocate the clash sensor and move the board back half inch inside the caseing. I'm thinking just he blade screw will hold them in good enough. I put the hole inline with the other switches and used the short thumbscrew tim sells.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

i kinda like the idea someone had bout just usin a allen screw drilled and tapped in the black area on the emitter.

true, ya gotta mess with a allen wrench to take blade off and on, but it would look better not having another thumbscrew stickin up, and be more accurate lookin since you wouldnt notice the allen screw as much as a thumbscrew.


guess we'll see when the kits come out.

[vortextwist]

well here is how mine turned out.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i259/vortextwist/newlightsabers054.jpg
I also got o-rings around the emitter and the other 4 grooves.

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i259/vortextwist/newlightsabers061.jpg

[Lord Maul]

very nice vortex 8)

what blades are you using?

[vortextwist]

34" tcss blades with diffusers.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

out of curiosity, why is that one knob lookin orange instead of red?

nice touch with the added o-rings. i might look into that myself.

[vortextwist]

ah it might just be how the light shined on it. I really had to push the o-rings on for the emitter but looks cool. I can't wait for the obi kits. I just got one yesterday. :lol:

[LAN-ED-TUL]

yeah, im waiting anxiously for the maul kits since i finally scored one cheap.

[DACOTA]

Well I sent Tim half of my maul so he could design the kits so I'll get the first two and man I cant wait! :D

[LAN-ED-TUL]

cool, and once he does, maybe then he can do the tutorial wording to go along with the pics he already has, and update it with the reinstallation pics and procedures as well.

i would myself rather have a set of pics and instructions to follow, just as i did with the vader and mace tutorials he has, as im doing the conversion.

so hopefully soon after the kits are ready, he will have time to complete that tutorial.

[Lord Maul]

speaking of tutorials, when will you get the ani one up tim?
i've done my conversion already, but what about new people?

[Strydur]

Well..why didnt you finish it for me?? sheesh. Really..If anyone with some skills wants to work on tutorials feel free. I might even reward you. Just dont be mad if you send me something I am not happy with and dont use it.

[Lord Maul]

i meant no disrespect, if that's how ya took it tim :wink:
i might do a tutorial. i need to decide if i'm gonna polish the blade holder or not. if i do, then i'll probably make one :D

[Ryma Mara]

If I was into conversions then I would post one up snappy quick.

[Strydur]

I was just joking with you. I know I need to get them done, I just have a very full plate lately.

[vortextwist]

I was just joking with you. I know I need to get them done, I just have a very full plate lately.

And I can't wait for all the little goodies we are going to feed upon. :D

[LAN-ED-TUL]

shew, thats a relief, i thought tim was mad bout something.

tim, any news update on the maul kits?

[Strydur]

Maul kit is in stock.

Can it be used for a Luke conversion? Yes and no.

It can be used to convert one of the empty Luke hilts yes. It can also be used to do a full Luke conversion but it would need to be cut down about half an inch. I will look into this further when I have time.

[vortextwist]

yeaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[DACOTA]

Oh yeah baybe here we go Im so excited, thanks Tim.
The second I convert mine Im posting it! :D :D :!:

Im nervous though Tim it says for a 3 watt conversion,as you know I bought k2's already,I can use those right? :(

[Jonitus]

Oh yeah baybe here we go Im so excited, thanks Tim.
The second I convert mine Im posting it! :D :D :!:

Im nervous though Tim it says for a 3 watt conversion,as you know I bought k2's already,I can use those right? :(

No you can't. If you do, you'll rip a hole in the fabric of the universe and creation will be unmade. Shame on you for using an LED that produces more lumen than a 3W at less current draw and therefore less heat.

:lol:

[vortextwist]

Oh yeah baybe here we go Im so excited, thanks Tim.
The second I convert mine Im posting it! :D :D :!:

Im nervous though Tim it says for a 3 watt conversion,as you know I bought k2's already,I can use those right? :(

No you can't. If you do, you'll rip a hole in the fabric of the universe and creation will be unmade. Shame on you for using an LED that produces more lumen than a 3W at less current draw and therefore less heat.

:lol:

YEA!!! :lol: Na, go ahead. 8)

[DACOTA]

He had me worried for the first part of the sentance, then it was wierd, then I was ashamed.Then you said go ahead and now Im like having withdraws from intense confusion from the hilarious joke.
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Thanks.

[Jonitus]

Sorry. Had to rib you a little bit.

Now, to be serious. What color LEDs are you going for? Hopefully you're not going for red K2's. Red K2's are actually DIMMER than 3W reds. If you want red, ask Ultra what bin number he uses for the red/orange LED to get the color he does. 190 lumen per LED. That's friggin' bright.

[DACOTA]

Im doing white with lee filters. :)

[Ryma Mara]

Ya knwo I would actually like to see the red/ambers of k2s just cause they have less lumins it could be a more fuller color.

[987654321a]

THE MAUL KITS ARE IN!!!!!!!!

[Strydur]

You can use a k2..its just going to be under powered more than likely.

[Novastar]

Yeah, unfortunately as the LED technology grows, MR boards are going to be able to take full advantage of the LEDs we like less and less.

My understanding from Ultra is that MOST MR sabers have 64 low-powered LEDs rated at 20ma. They probably don't run at their max, but he mentioned the nice binary 64 x 20ma = 1280ma.

If that is true and you could somehow regulate power to an MR board as 1.3A (such as Erv's, but then what would be the point of an MR board)... you could get close to the full capability of a K2.

Even 1.3A is not the full "top out" of a K2 Green/Blue/Cyan/etc. --- I think it's 1.5A.

I have a K2 Green powered by MR giving it 5v via regulator from a 7.2 li-ion pack...

And now my new Flange v3 powered by 7.4 li-ion via Erv's board. The 1.3A is distinctly better.

[DACOTA]

Wohoo!I just got the first two tcss Darth Maul conversion kits.I'll convert and post pics tomorrow. :D

[LAN-ED-TUL]

take step by step pics of the install, tim might could use them in the tutorial.

[DACOTA]

Ok I will.

[Strydur]

Just got a update on the Obi kits. They will be here the middle of next week.

[vortextwist]

yyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa !!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lol:

[DACOTA]

Ok I'v been working on half of my maul and I couldnt get the wire to work so I checked and sure enough the blade plug is the same as the 05 vader so just follow those steps.I'll post pics of my wire setup even though its the same. :D Im off to finish it.

[vortextwist]

yup, hence they are the same boards.

[DACOTA]

Thge pitch is different in the sound though.


http://s63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/?action=view&current=soundtest02.flv

[ti-el_terall]

Hows the conversion workingout so far? Cant wait for the pics!

[jjshumpert]

so far mr only uses 2 types of sound modules, jedi and sith. the yoda is a smaller pcb but still the same module as the standard jedi. the differences your hearing is simply because of the different hilts and battery packs, there is absolutely no difference in the vader and maul sound modules.

[vortextwist]

only becouse of the pommel. otherwise they are identicle.

[Lord Maul]

JJ, also, the luke esb sounds were the sith ones :wink:
even ultra has confirmed, that there are only two boards dacota

[jjshumpert]

i had forgot the original luke, i havent had it out of the box since i bought it... one of 2 sabers i own that have not and will never be converted

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I have a Vader/Sith board in my custom saber:
http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/?action=view&current=000_0039.flv

[DACOTA]

Ok.And yes I got it done.Sorry but I forgot to take pics of how I fitted the clash sensor but I did take pics of the led and wiring setup I'll post pics onceI get home.

[ti-el_terall]

Looking forward to pics.

[DACOTA]

Ok I'll get the pics up on this post in a minute,but I wanted to say Tim said that the k2 would most likely be underpowered,now im not disagreeing with him but I tested my maul batt pack with a voltage meter on the 9v reading and it has 3 1/2 almost 4v's exactly,so minus how many volts the sound uses and there you go your exact answer.Luxeons charts say the k2 typically uses 3.42 volts.
Does anyone know how many volts the maul board itself uses?

The maul has a white k2 and lee filters running off of stock electronics and tims led blade.Ok here we go,obviously the blades dont actually look rotoscoped in person,its just the camera.Im sorry if some of the colors look the same but all of the lee filters are different in each pic.

I forgot pics of how I fitted the clash sensor but I got a couple others.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/P1010041.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/P1010044.jpg

Blade pics:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/P1010046-1.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/P1010064-1.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/P1010066.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/P1010067.jpg

Ok this is a lime lee filter the camera just makes it look yellow.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/P1010068.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/P1010069.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/P1010071.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/P1010073-1.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/P1010076.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/P1010077.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/P1010078.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/P1010079.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/P1010080.jpg

Ok this is two filters,light blue and light green to make a cyan or green blue.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/P1010081.jpg

This is also a mix,a light blue and a light purple.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/P1010082.jpg

[Ryma Mara]

I like that orange but not enought for me to go with filters

[Lord Maul]

wow...i love the purple color you made dacota!
looks sweet.

great job on the conversion man :D

[DACOTA]

Thanks I'll try and get some more hilt pics and when I do the other half I'll take more pics of the electronics setup and how I fitted the clash sensor. BTW there are 3 orange blade pics.

[Ryma Mara]

I see that but on this end they all look the same just slightly closer to the camera

[DACOTA]

Oh well,I guess I need better pics.

[Strydur]

Obi kits are on the site

[ti-el_terall]

Sweet, will they work with a Luke (I thinkk this has been asked before but I couldnt remember.)?

[DACOTA]

Ok I got my second maul apart and Its all wired up,all I got to do is cut off 2/16's of the holder and slide it in.But I have an idea I need approved or shot down.Right now its running off of the stock electronics and fresh batteries and its getting 3 volts.Since the k2 is underpowered how about taking the sound module off of the batt pack and leave it connected and solder one of tims 4 AAA batt packs.That would give me an extra1+1/2 volts.Would this work or not?Can the mr board regulate the power so its not too much for the led?

[DACOTA]

Oh hey i got one more question,maybe the masters here can answer this, why do you need to hook up the maul this way?
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/18.jpg

As I'm finishing up my conversion one of the orange wire broke and it still lit up full brightness,I unhooked all the other wires except for the brown,gray, and purple and it lights up,so whats the point of the red through blue wires?

[vortextwist]

they are all the neg wires from the several sets of leds. you won't get full brightness from the led if you don't have the other ground wire. I could be wrong but sounds good to me.

[DACOTA]

I dont think so, I turned it back on with those wires disconected and it was just as bright and when I tested the voltage of the led with it turned on it was the same voltage amount as with the other wires.

[vortextwist]

hmm, i'm not sure. I'll look at my ani board since they are basically the same except the sound.

Edit: All I see is that all the pins on the board goes to something, don't know what they are but, does all the sounds and clashes work?

[xwingband]

You shouldn't be getting full brightness that way. Unless it's pushing all the brightness through the remaining wires... not sure on that.

Things I'm sure of though... voltage tells you nothing about the brightness, so that reasoning is flawed. Also hook them up that way because even if it still pushes all the power it has through it still triggers the six steps.

I don't like the instant on/off so much and the six steps help a bit. On an RGB I was playing with it was fun. Instead of bundling the negs I set it up so the colors lighted in sequence. :lol:

[Jay-gon Jinn]

If you hook all of those negatives up, you should be able to see a slight power-up/power-down fade to the led, especially with a red one.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

exactly, hooking up all the neg. wires like shown will give you more of a ramp up and down effect. your way, will just be more like, the on and off as described above.


trust in the word of the experts, they know theyre stuff.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I just wired up a vader board to a royal blue star/o with a micropuck, and can see the ramp up/down with that led, as well.

[DACOTA]

To answer votextwist,yes all the sound and clash work.Ok I just turned it on and it has a slight fade when you turn it off without the other wires but its mostly on/off normal and the led stays on still until the retract sound is fully played,so I would like to cut the other wires and just use the one to the neg instead of all of them but im unsure.Do you think it would cuase any problems?

[Hasid Lafre]

I wouldent cut them compleatly off ya never know when you might have to use it for something else later down the road.

[DACOTA]

Well I cut them too short unlike the first maul I did I left them full lungth but I have the same wires from my anakin led strip so I'll just use those.And I definetely saw a difference in no wires and with wires on the whole retract thing,big difference.Thanks everyone. :D

[DACOTA]

:!: ALERT :!: Urgent message.I just figured out a new way to convert the maul,the only mod this way needs is a sinlge hole drilled in the plastic where the sound board is.As Vortextwist predicted I believe I figured out somthing that no one else thought of.I'll try and draw somthing up in paint then post it.I already did both my conversions so to see a tutorial on this someone else would have to do it.

[vortextwist]

well hurry up 8)

[DACOTA]

Ok Im on it. :D

[DACOTA]

Here we go the new way to convert the maul:one simple mod for this entire conversion,a single drilled hole in the sound module.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/Dmconversion.png

[Strydur]

Isnt this basically what JJ showed in his tutorial?

[vortextwist]

ya beat me

[DACOTA]

No he put the clash sensor in the sound module,this way glues it upright to the copper slug and only a sinlge drilled hole in the front of the plastic.
So its less work than cuting out all the plastic of the module like JJ did.Does this make sense,am I explaining it well?

[vortextwist]

ok I see it. jj put the whole C/S on top of the board with a hole, dacota is putting the board under the heatsink and just a little of the C/S in the caseing

[jjshumpert]

so what happens if you dont line up the activation mount perfectly and have to twist the sound module in the hilt?

[DACOTA]

Yeah that would be the only problem but I didnt have that happen to me even though I didnt set my conversuon up this way I still was able to slide everything in without having to twist it around.Its not hard you just line it up on the outside and guide it in straight.I just use the yellow arrow for the batt pack and line it up with the silver screw at the end of the hilt.

[xwingband]

Is anyone working on the Obi?

I got mine today and upgraded to the kit. It's a lot deeper than the others and it makes it feel very solid. Even with a thick walled 36" blade it's balanced exactly at the emitter.

[vortextwist]

I finally got a strap wrench to get mine apart. I don't have a very good camera.

[xwingband]

I just don't want to step on any toes. I would like to reshoot my pics from the non-kit one also and add the kit ones.

[vortextwist]

be my guest, lol

[Strydur]

JJ..wheres my pics so I can finish up your tutorial?

X..please do. I know there are people waiting to see it.

[Er Dan Gill]

Just got my Obi kit in today. Not wanting to mess anything up and not being very familiar with these boards. Will the pic that Dacota posted of the wiring on the previous page work for the Obi as well?

[vortextwist]

look a thread up, x did one mostly already.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

i noticed on JJ's pics, that he cuts a section out of the side it looks like, where the clash sensor goes in the MR body, and through the hole he drilled.


how close is the printed circutry to the edges of that half circle shaped board?

it would seem to me, if the circut wasnt close to the edges. you could simply dremel off a lil on the curve, and not cut out the side, and it would just slide inside it.

that would be easier than hackin out a section on the MR body. wouldnt it?


any thoughts?

[vortextwist]

I think it just makes it easier. when I did my first set it was easy to just cut that out.

[Strydur]

Xwing..any ETA on the Obi?

[jjshumpert]

where i cut out the sound module for the cs to fit is all boxed out, meaning you cant see the board thru the plastic, and when you insert the cs its protected by the module casing, so no worries of it coming loose and getting broken

[xwingband]

Xwing..any ETA on the Obi?

I need to take the pictures still. I got delayed because we had our kitchen arrive. :) I've been spending the last few days just me and my mom putting it all together. Should be done today.

[DACOTA]

Ya know I thought my idea was good at first but I say lets just do it JJ's way,kay?