Blade Tip Adhesion

[CET]

I duel with my sabers at least twice a week with a local group. I've been having issues of my blade tips flying off. I've tried super glue and epoxy, and they stay put for a little while, but by the end of the night I'm often on the hunt for my lost little blade tip. I have the same issues with the corbin blades. I'm seriously thinking about melting the things on there! Any advice for better tip adhesion?

[Silver Serpent]

Weld-On #16 is the correct plastic solvent for the job. It will permanently fuse the two pieces together if used properly.

[CET]

Thank you sir!

[FenixFire]

If the 16 still fails if you have a regal plastics or another shop that specilizes in polycarbonate sheet they will have the pure solvent that is diluted for the 16. Just can't think of the chemical name at the moment.

[Silver Serpent]

Methylene chloride is the primary solvent in Weld-On #16. It works just fine in pure form.

Chloroform is an acceptable substitute, if you have access to it. That's what I use.

[DemonBunnyman]

Transparent duct tape.

[FenixFire]

Thanks Silver I was having a bit of mental block!

[Don Se Wion]

After many years at the academy, I came to the conclusion that sooner or later the tip will fly off.

I have seen several attempts to solve the problem, from increasingly stronger glue to metal pins passing through blade an tip.
Some solutions may last more than others, but eventually the tip will take off like a rocket.

I also observed that increasing the strongness of the binding between blade and tip is considerably increasing the risk to actually break the blade itself.
So, I came to the conclusion that it's better to glue back a tip than replacing a whole blade.

I normally use Pattex 100% glue, but I don't know if it can be found in the US, at least the Pattex website don't have an US section.
The glue is strong and flexible, without solvants that may harm the policarbonate of the blade.
Being flexible it can absorbe a lot of hits, but as I said eventually the tip will fly anyway.

At our academy we have 9 classes per week and this is the best solution we found to avoid being constantly fixing blades.

[CET]

What about threading the tip and blade?

[Quixotic Jedi]

Threading has been attempted at that place we can't talk about here. I have no idea how well it works apart from maybe making tip replacement faster.

[Darth Nater]

You want to make sure you have a nice flush cut on the end of the blade as well. I'll tape mine off with masking tape and then make the cut with a miter saw. Stuff some paper towel down in there before hand to keep the little dust bits from flying down the tube though and poke out out the short side along with all of the debris. The Weld on #16 has worked great for me as well.

[Silver Serpent]

I use a tubing cutter. It avoids the bits of plastic dust, though it can cause a little flaring around the cut.

[FenixFire]

What about threading the tip and blade?

Have not seen it but I would suspect it would create a hot spot in the lighting as the threads would provide a lot of interrupted surface for the light to diffuse and refract out.

[Strydur]

Use the correct glue and the blade will break in order for the tip to come off.

[CET]

Use the correct glue and the blade will break in order for the tip to come off.

But what's the correct glue?

[Quixotic Jedi]

Most of us use Weldon 16 from IPS. Amazon carries it, or you could search local industrial supply houses. My $10 tube will last me forever.

[FenixFire]

Most of us use Weldon 16 from IPS. Amazon carries it, or you could search local industrial supply houses. My $10 tube will last me forever.

Most hardware stores should have it. Ive picked it up at Ace, True Value and HD.

[Strydur]

We use weld-on 3 also available through Amazon

[FenixFire]

But what's the correct glue?

Lexan recomennds in this order for their Poly Carb Sheets.

Weld-on #3

Weld-on #16

Weld-on #40

#3 in nice because you can use a needle bottle and capillary action (as long as the cuts are clean) for a clean glue-up. Assuming Tube/Tip works like sheet/sheet you fit the parts and then touch the needle to the joint and apply a small amount of solvent that will instantly wick into the joint. Hold it for a few seconds and its basically one piece. This is where I mentioned I use the straight Methylene Chloride to do the same process. #40 would be structurally the best because it is meant for Aquarium and Architectural applications where strength is a large factor. Though it is a 2-part mix and can be trickier to apply.

[Quixotic Jedi]

Weldon 3 is best, but I worry about how thin and runny it can be, so I opted for 16 which is thicker.

[CET]

I've got a bottle of SCIGRIP 16 on the way. Should be here tomorrow. Hopefully it'll be cured by the time I want to use it later that evening.

Someone I know from a dueling group suggested some heatshrink over the top for a wee extra bit of strength, and also so it doesn't launch like a missile if/when it breaks off. Thoughts?