View Full Version : Is my wiring good to go?

04-06-2016, 04:58 PM
? on: Today at 12:21:23 PM ?
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Here is a picture of what I have for wiring, It's all laid out an ready to go and a few things are already wired. I would like to use my 6mm illuminated green AV switch an the Buckpuck says it requires latching (not sure if it really does). My goal is to be able to switch my LED's or combine two whenever I want. I was also going to make some resistor links with female /male jst connectors so I can do sunriders or orange If I choose by just adding them in as a link between my LED's an Buckpuck.

1. Can I split the output for the main LED on the Buckpuck to run two separate main LEDs or would I do that In reverse an wire the Led's together instead of making the Buckpuck input have two female connectors?

2. On my switch converter I followed a diagram to wire what I did but I'm confused as to what makes the switch work through the buckpuck an I have not wired them together??
all that is left unwired is a VIN, ON, OFF, CTRL, an what appears to be a second GND. I have no clue but my guess was a positive wire on the ON and a negative on GND or OFF but I truly have no clue.

3. If I figure out how to use the momentary latching switch converter then I don't need to use the Buckpucks accent LED port for my lit AV switch right? Cause their is one on the switch converter.

5. Is a 20 ma LuxDrive 4006 DynaOhm variable resistor a waste on my AV accent LED? Does anyone have a recommended resistor size or should I just use my last DynaOhm?

4. The lines that are broken with white dots are for an alternate wiring with a non Illuminated latching switch, so you would remove the momentary/latching switch convertor from the picture, that said is my wiring right?

5. My battery is a 7.4 2 cell li ion 2400 18650. I was using a 1000 ma Buckpuck with a luxeon tri rebel r/b/g star the red says good to 700ma and the others say good to 1000ma. I was gonna do a .5 to 1. ohm resistor on the negative of all leds and a 20 ma LuxDrive 4006 DynaOhm variable resistor on the Red LED. Are all my LED's safe with this battery setup? The green an blue say up to 1000 ma does that mean my Buckpuck is gonna run them at max? Is that safe? Does my .05 to 1.0 resistor on negative help them?

6. Silly question can I use 3, 5, 10 watt resistors Or do they all need to be a certain watt? I believe my .05-1 ohm resistors are either 3 or 5 watt then all my other resistors are random watts.

Please answer what you can even if it's only one question I know I can't rush anyone here but I am very excited to wire my first saber and I am dying to put it together an turn some lights on. I will be patient though an wait for answers as I'm sure you are all beyond aware these products were pretty expensive an if I mess up I would have to wait to get money to replace them. Thanks a million everyones been a big help so far.

P.S. the orange squares in Pic are quick connects. Also sorry if this is messy It was the second time I have ever done something like this, the first being a very ugly version of it lol
Also if this was the wrong spot to post I'm super sorry I'm brand new to Forums in general

Sincerely Pete


04-06-2016, 07:31 PM
I think you meant to post this in the LED saber section. Also I do not believe your wiring for the main led is correct. First of all the main LEDs red runs at 700 mA not 20, the 20mA dynaohm is for accent LEDs that run at 20mA such as the one in your AV switch. So no the dynaohm is not overkill for the AV switch it's ideal for it. Also from what I have read and been told, you will need a 1000mA buck puck for each the blue and green led dice and a 700 mA buck puck for the red.

If you are using the buck pucks you don't need the resistors as the puck puts out the constant amperage. The resitor method restrict the voltage in an attempted to replicate an led driver like the pucks and dynaohm. If using resistors use the ohms law formula to calculate the resistance and wattage needed for each led based on the input voltage, led voltage drop, and desired amperage value.

You really need to search the forums and watch the YouTube videos they will answer almost all your questions. Look up Madcow or Genesis Sabers on YouTube. Even have a video specifically on wiring the latching converter...so check it out.

04-06-2016, 09:45 PM
I Thank you very much for your reply I'm much closer now. As for reading an watching youtube I have read over 50 hours of stuff between 3 forums an watched at least 20 youtube videos. I have scene a lot of setups but I haven't found any videos or post with a momentary av switch and a momentary an latching converter with the other items I have, just separately.

The main thing I'm not really seeing is the actual setups for a led where you can just quick connect all three colors ends an then use any one/two at any time by simply connecting them. I have scene plenty of single color quick connect videos an believe I am capable of that. I have heard people say it is possible or they have the two led setup but have no clue how they set it up. I believe I messaged Genesis under his other name on youtube (I think he did halo theme saber but not sure would have to go sign in to see) an he told me to come here an read, over 3 weeks ago lol. I just finally bought my stuff about a week ago an it came really fast. But yeah, I'm still very confused all the color swap videos he has seem to be done with crystal focus. Thiers one related to TcSS or one of its sponsored peoples videos, I believe same guy, but it doesn't have him finish an just suggest you mess with resistors an I have a good idea how to do that after that video but I wanted to just use a buckpuck with resistors on Red LED.

As for needing two buckpucks I have not read anything that mentions one saber with two in it. I have a custom coming with two colors on same buckpuck I think?, but it isn't quick connect compatible to buy. Anyway I will be able to see how it's wired but didn't wanna wait, it could be awhile lol. I am under the impression you would wire the green an blue together into one set of positive an negative an connect it to the buckpuck like that but I'm truly not sure. My finale confussion for now is how do I tell what the led voltage drop is? I believe I'm familiar with the rest to calculate. I will say this whoever is doing these sabers themselves on here mad props, this stuff is no joke. Truly the journey of 1,000 steps If anyone has any idea let me know. I am starting to think that with what items I have maybe my goals are impossible.

Thanks a bunch though for what was answered already again FenixFire. You definitely cleared up the switch resistor an red led resistor questions and I'm now two steps closer my friend. Anyone with the next step would be amazing. Thanks in advance guys I truly wouldn't be able to build a saber without all the help I've got from everybody's post everywhere.

04-07-2016, 05:48 AM
Go to the single color rebel star in the store it lists the voltage drop for each color, but that is only needed if not using the puck. The reason you do not see it from what I was told when I asked the same question a year ago was because most people only use a single die when using a puck. I will try and track down the thread. You will not find video for exactly what you are looking for as pucks are used primarily for stunt sabers and you are building a very complicated one. The CF or Prizim board would actually be the ideal solution for what you want to do, then you could change color on the fly without opening and switching connectors. I am a 15 yr veteran of product development and I see multiple areas of failure built into the idea of multiple leads and connectors for each setup...lots of short out potential.

04-07-2016, 08:13 AM
Here are a couple of the links referencing that you cannot run both a puck and resistors on the same die because the puck will simply push more voltage to compensate for the resistance.


Here are a few on the single puck multiple different color dice question. (keep in mind to safely wire in series they have to be the same color and bin, i.e. all blue)



BTW a port labled VIN should be the battery(+) or Voltage In and the GND or GRDon any board

04-07-2016, 11:11 AM
I thank you sincerely sir you have given me a good deal to look into I'm going to read through those links immediately.

As for the VIN thing I am positive my switch converter is wired properly my confusion is that it only plugs the battery into the buckpuck from the converter an that leaves my buckpucks latching switch receiver opened. both are wired together but I just can't seem to find anywhere that shows what runs to that open connection. I probably overlooked something.

You are the best though I'm truly excited everyday I am one step closer, you are now a big part of that so THANK YOU VERY MUCH SIR. As for complicated I think I might be headed toward a mad scientist award lol, joking.

Someone suggested the 3 male double female setup for a FoC switchable setup on another site. They said make all three colors male and then split the LED input to two female and the FoC input to 2 female and gave an example. Like; connect red on led blue on FOC, or do blue and red in Led no flash for magenta, or do blue main an green/red FoC for an almost orange flash. then they just said make sure you provide proper resistance or something like that, that's where I got the idea. I wish they had elaborated cause I had the idea before but had no clue what you could do an then when I read that I fell in love and I'm now dying to do this without the FoC

That resistor thing had crossed my mind I vaguely thought I heard someone mention a way to do buckpuck resistor combo but it's been lost to the pages of time. That also doesn't mean it was done in the manner I'm trying, I think their setup was a blue with a puck an a green resisted, which based on your reply would make a lot of sense. Probably not double pucked just to save space.

Anymore advice anywhere from anyone I'd gladly take it.
Thanks again, Pete

Links won't open :(

04-07-2016, 01:26 PM
Are you trying to get FOC? Are you going to have a second momentary switch to control the FOC die?

Without a sound card you will have to manually do the FOC, a buck puck is simply a constant current regulator and has no programmed effects. Just wanted to point that out because I have seen several people assume the puck would allow FOC.

04-07-2016, 06:43 PM
No, no FoC for me in this setup I have another setup coming and the idea was suggested in regards to that. I Had no clue you could even do FoC manually without a soundcard. I was aware of the purpose for the buckpuck just didn't realize that if you place a resistor on either side of your input it would be overridden by the buckpuck.

I have 2 new diagrams I made I would love for you to take a look at them an let me know if their any good. I have the stuff wired but haven't connected battery and don't wanna till I confirm if they are good setups or not. I have company now but will post pictures soon.

Keep an eye out Thanks again


04-07-2016, 06:48 PM
I actually backed away from the pucks and did an econo build using and Ezra saber board and just finished a NB3 build. I was just passing on what I learned from during the planning phase. I would post your diagrams in. The LED saber section as the ELmsection is fairly dead.

04-07-2016, 07:56 PM
Will do, Thanks again. Those sabers sound awesome once I get some extra cash to spend I'm going to try and do a crystal focus soundcard. I also have a saber coming with FoC and I'm gonna try the multiple connectors and buckpuck resistor setups with it.

04-16-2016, 12:11 AM
got FOC manuel an a ton of color swaps all in sets of 3 with just one quick connect to switch to a different set of three with 3 sets total.