Another Noob LED and Resistor Question

[MdWolfen]

Hello everyone. First let me say that this is my first post, but, I've been lurking on this forum for a while and have found a lot answers and help from here. This is great forum. Now however, I need to ask for some help. I have a saber that I want to change the led on. After searching on here I have decided to go with a Tri-Cree in RO/A/W. I want a nice Blood Orange with White as the FoC. My saber has a 1000mA BuckPuck and is running 7.4v Li-Ion battery setup that I'm going to keep in there and use. From reading I see that the BuckPuck will run the Cree's but what I need to know is do I need to add a resistor to either or both of the RO & A dies to achieve a nice Blood Orange, or will they mix right straight off the BuckPuck? If needed, what resistors? As for the FoC, I'm aware that you need a board for it. There is one in there. This saber was a gift and bought from the 'Other Company'. I've re-done the wiring and added a chassis disk for support. Once I get the LED the way I want it, it'll be great until I can make my first build from here. ;) Thanks in advance for the help.

[NanoRex]

You're not going to be able to resistor the LEDs separately if they are in series. Even so, if you added a resistor the BuckPuck would just supply more voltage to compensate for it and you'd still be driving the LEDs at 1000mA.

What shade is "blood orange" exactly? To me it sounds like you just want two red-orange dice.

[rlobrecht]

Your buckpuck also won't give you flash on clash. You're going to have to step up to a soundboard and toss the buckpuck. The higher end boards support color mixing, but are all out of stock. There is a tutorial video on color mixing using resistors, which you could do. The only in-stock sound card is the NBv3, and it takes a 3.7V battery.

[MdWolfen]

Wow. I missed that somehow. I didn't know the BuckPuck would just supply more voltage. I've seen a few people use RO/A for their Orange and I love the way it looks. As far as going straight with two RO die, I have not seen what just the RO looks like. So far I've only found pics where people used RO/A, RO/G & R/G or their Orange. I have to see what just RO looks like. Also, there is a sound board in the saber for the FoC.

[NanoRex]

If you like the look of RO/A, then I would just go for it. Wire em up to the BuckPuck in series.

[MdWolfen]

If you like the look of RO/A, then I would just go for it. Wire em up to the BuckPuck in series.

Ok, I have my custom Tri-Cree in Red/Orange, Amber, Green. The R/O & A for the main and the G for FoC. For now, let's say I keep the 1000ma BuckPuck in there. To keep the blade as bright as possible, I would wire in series, correct? So the R/O & A go in series. So, I have a 7.4v Li-Ion source. The led die have a 2.65 and 2.57 forward voltage. The Puck needs 2v. that's 7.22v total. So with that, I'm good, right? Now as far as the G for FoC, I can't put that into series too or the total voltage needed would be 10.8v. So can the FoC led get wired in parallel with the other two that are in series? Would that work and did I explain that right?

[FenixFire]

Ok, I have my custom Tri-Cree in Red/Orange, Amber, Green. The R/O & A for the main and the G for FoC. For now, let's say I keep the 1000ma BuckPuck in there. To keep the blade as bright as possible, I would wire in series, correct? So the R/O & A go in series. So, I have a 7.4v Li-Ion source. The led die have a 2.65 and 2.57 forward voltage. The Puck needs 2v. that's 7.22v total. So with that, I'm good, right? Now as far as the G for FoC, I can't put that into series too or the total voltage needed would be 10.8v. So can the FoC led get wired in parallel with the other two that are in series? Would that work and did I explain that right?

If you put it in series the green will be lit with the other 2 die. How are you controlling the FoC? With a second switch and puck? The pucks are only current regulators and have no programming to control blade effects.

[MdWolfen]

If you put it in series the green will be lit with the other 2 die. How are you controlling the FoC? With a second switch and puck? The pucks are only current regulators and have no programming to control blade effects.

The FoC is controlled by 'another companies' sound board. For the FoC, the Pos. lead comes from the power source and the Neg. lead comes from the sound board. The current setup is a 1000ma Puck with two led die in parallel and no FoC. I bought a new Tri-Cree so I could have a different blade color and FoC. I have a lead soldered on to the board for FoC, I'm just trying to figure out the best way to wire the leds.

[NanoRex]

I think you're supposed to just wire the FoC die to the FoC lead on the board and the board positive. However I would first test with a multimeter to see what voltage comes across those leads when a clash is triggered so you can calculate the right resistor to use.