can some on help me make heads or tails of this ?

[redpaw70]

i bought this latching switch, http://www.amazon.com/Latching-Button-Switch-Stainless-Waterproof/dp/B00LLV4DA0/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1456790991&sr=8-15&keywords=latching+push+button

an the instructions are a bit confusing to me they read " LED only on when the accessory is on, grounding switch.
This configuration can be used if the accessory to be operated by the switch only has a ground line going to the switch (the switch completes the grounding side of the circuit for the accessory). For this configuration the negative (-) terminal is attached to power, C1 is grounded, NO1 and positive (+) are both joined to the accessory ground and NC1 is attached to nothing.13492

i have my resistor ran off the neg from the battery , but im unclear as to what post the wire from batt goes to an what post the neg from batt goes too an so on an so forth ,i've tried going by the diagram but i think im still missing something , cause i can get the light on the switch to always be on ,but i cant get it to only come on when the saber is on , or get it to even get the blade led to light up not sure what im doing wrong

[NanoRex]

It would be a lot more helpful if you posted a wiring schematic so we can see how you are wiring things up.

[redpaw70]

im not running sound or anything just the battery box the switch an the cree star led an resistor , but i haven't been able to figure out the switch .with the switch what i posted is all the instruction it came with , i may just have to go with a different switch.

[NanoRex]

Try using a multimeter to test which leads are which.

[FenixFire]

Try using a multimeter to test which leads are which.

I second the multimeter. It is a first step with all switches and decent ones are available for under $50. That being said the C is usually the switch common. The NO- would be connected for normally open (off). The NC- would be wired for normally closed (on). The + and - are usually for the led. Though these China direct Amazon buys are notorious for not being labeled correctly...thus the need of the multimeter.

I think this is what you are trying. It will wire the system NO with the led either on only with the main led (top) or as long as there is power (bottom). You should not need to resistor the led, as it is already set up for direct connection to a 12v system such as a car or boat.

13497http://http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=69634 (http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=69634)

[redpaw70]

thanks guys