3D printed chassis

[bunger]

I know there are a handful of 3D printed chassis available through shapeways, but was tossing around the idea of designing and printing my own.

Has anyone else tried this yet? Just curious how it went and whether you used PLA or ABS?

[FenixFire]

Never used it for a chassis, but as a professional product designer I have a decade and a half of experience with rapid prototyping. If you have questions hit me up. Either PLA or ABS would work fine. If FDM Printing I would make sure the printer is processing in in 100 micron or better resolution if you have significant detail in the parts. Personally I prefer the ABS just because PLA is a bio-polymer and I have done several products based on the plastic that use the oils and bacteria in the users hands to start the composting process.

The SLS used by most of the ones on the sight you mention appear to be fairly good resolution as well.

I would stay away from anything PolyJet/Connex printed in general. If SLA I would stick with Somos Next or Accura Xtreame materials with a .04 minimum wall on anything remotely structural.

[BartElroy]

There's a lot of trial and error involved. You design a part, print it, see what doesn't work. Change your design, reprint, and go again. Waiting for the prints is tedious, but otherwise it's fun. I've got pretty much an entire chassis system modeled, including a switch pack, sound board holder and expandable crystal chamber. I just need to finish the speaker holder. The whole process has been a blast.

[darth_chasm]

I've been working on one and just got the components yesterday. Went with a mix of SLS nylon and stainless steel. Pretty pleased with the results.

[FenixFire]

I've been working on one and just got the components yesterday. Went with a mix of SLS nylon and stainless steel. Pretty pleased with the results.

I'd say it is pretty awesome looking both in styling and functionality.

[War Machine]

ordered a GOTH chassis for my graflex 2.0 off shapeways and received in the mail the other day. Unfortunately it was shipped with a part of it broken off :| . Probably happened during the polishing process.

So my only advice would be to make sure your part is well reinforced and not modeled too thin depending on your material you choose. They might be replacing it, but as stated above, the printing and shipping time took about half a month.

[bunger]

Great comments and suggestions!!

If I try it, I will post the progress.

[CET]

There are so many great printed chassis designs (many of which are modular), which I have used. I'm partial to GOTH.

Personally I'd rather not re-invent the wheel. Especially since each iteration of printing will take 3-6 weeks to get to you. So you'd be looking at possibly a year long process to make a chassis you like. The closest I've gotten to making a custom chassis is taking a dremel wheel to a piece of electrical conduit. The pic below isn't my work, but you get the idea.

http://genesiscustomsabers.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/IMG_8532-wmark.jpg

[bunger]

I have my own 3D printer, so turn-around time would be minimal. :-)

[CET]

I have my own 3D printer, so turn-around time would be minimal. :-)

In that case, completely disregard my post ... show off. :p

[FenixFire]

3-6 weeks...that's rediculous time frame rapid prototyped parts. You guys really need to start using actual prototype houses not 3rd party sourcing like shape ways. Most have 2-3 day turn on sls and sla. 3-4 days on fdm. Even the Moller quality presentation models of a 12 piece set of cookware I did only took 10 days. And that consisted of 6 metal plated and painted sla pots, 3 sla chrome plated and then soft touch over molded handles, and 3 clear sla lids with sandblasted etching of the distinctive Branding texture. It was only 10 days from uploading the stl files to me opening the box of the finished models at the 2012 Housewares Show.

[FenixFire]

What type of printer and is it a resolution you would be happy with. That would be another question. If not mock it up on yours and then do the final resolution print on a higher end machine at a service bureau.

[darth_chasm]

Yeah I think the 3-6 weeks is a bit of an exaggeration. At least from my experience it is.

[CET]

That's been my experience with shape ways. My last order was a NB chassis and a charge port modular chassis and it took 6 weeks. Most of my stuff has been close to 3 weeks, but sometimes it takes longer.

[darth_chasm]

That's been my experience with shape ways. My last order was a NB chassis and a charge port modular chassis and it took 6 weeks. Most of my stuff has been close to 3 weeks, but sometimes it takes longer.

Thats unfortunate. I've always gotten 1 week from order date to ship date except for one order with a metal print. That took 2 weeks.

[CET]

I've never gotten anything in less than 3 weeks. I'm jealous.

[darth_chasm]

I don't know if it makes a difference, but I've only ordered my own models.

[BartElroy]

I have my own 3D printer, so turn-around time would be minimal. :-)

What printer are you using bunger?

I'm using a Monoprice MakerSelect myself, which is based on the RepRap Prusa i3 reference design.

[bunger]

What printer are you using bunger?

I'm using a Monoprice MakerSelect myself, which is based on the RepRap Prusa i3 reference design.

Printrbot Simple Metal with x and z axis upgrades to increase the build area.

[BartElroy]

Printrbot Simple Metal with x and z axis upgrades to increase the build area.

I'm jealous. The problem with having a $350 printer is, you have a $350 printer. I want a nicer one, but I'm not buying anything else until the Carbon3D Clip printers hit the market.

[FenixFire]

I'm jealous. The problem with having a $350 printer is, you have a $350 printer. I want a nicer one, but I'm not buying anything else until the Carbon3D Clip printers hit the market.

$350 for a 3d printer is nothing, personally I have seen few printers sub $2000 that are worth the time and money. But then I am used to seeing parts run on professional $200k+ machines.

[bunger]

That's what drew me to the Printrbot- very good print quality and reasonably priced.

I can't do professional level prints with it, but it definitely serves its purpose.

[darth_chasm]

This just popped up in my Facebook feed.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xNUQ8EpHC-g

[NanoRex]

The thought of 3D printed aircraft parts scares me haha

[BartElroy]

$350 for a 3d printer is nothing, personally I have seen few printers sub $2000 that are worth the time and money. But then I am used to seeing parts run on professional $200k+ machines.

My printer isn't terrible, but even though it's supposed to do ABS, I've never gotten any usable ABS parts out of it. It does reasonably well with PLA. I want a Lolzbot Taz5 or three, but I have neither the space, nor the money. However, when the CLIP printers from Carbon3D come out, I will be all over those, if I have to sell a kidney.

[FenixFire]

The thought of 3D printed aircraft parts scares me haha

Yeah but the almost $1mil fully. Kitted out Fortus machines Boeing and Lockheed use are sweet machines to use and play with.

[FenixFire]

My printer isn't terrible, but even though it's supposed to do ABS, I've never gotten any usable ABS parts out of it. It does reasonably well with PLA. I want a Lolzbot Taz5 or three, but I have neither the space, nor the money. However, when the CLIP printers from Carbon3D come out, I will be all over those, if I have to sell a kidney.

That's because even at the 16 micron layer you only get 70-80% sheer strength as compared to injection molded, I've tested it my self on most professional systems so any sales rep can not change my mind.

[BartElroy]

That's because even at the 16 micron layer you only get 70-80% sheer strength as compared to injection molded, I've tested it my self on most professional systems so any sales rep can not change my mind.

Oh, it's not that. For the uses I've intended, the printed parts would be fine. The problem I'm having is getting layer adhesion with the ABS at all. I get good parts with PLA (though I've had some "stringy" prints) but with ABS even with my print nozzle maxed out on heat, I can't get decent parts. From what I've heard, getting prints larger than 10mm off the bed of a printer is close to impossible without a fully enclosed and heated print chamber, and I'm running an open air printer and trying to print 4 inch tall parts.

I've tried PETG filament, but the oozing issue I occasionally have with PLA is a complete nightmare with PETG, and cleaning that stuff out of your extruder is a pain. I might try ABS again if Carbon3D comes out with an ABS resin for their CLIP printers, purely because being able to acetone weld parts is incredibly convenient, but for now, I'm sticking with PLA for my saber builds. (I'd love to try HIPS, but I have a feeling I'd run into the same issues as with ABS)

[bunger]

but for now, I'm sticking with PLA for my saber builds. (I'd love to try HIPS, but I have a feeling I'd run into the same issues as with ABS)

What saber parts have you fabricated so far on your printer?

[FenixFire]

I know, that is why the higher end machines have heated build chambers and finer layers, it drastically improves adhesion. Also despite what most sales materials says, most Home/Hobby FDM machines are based off of 5-10 year old versions of the technology and are optimized for the lower melt temperature of PLA. That's why it works better.

[jsummit]

I would go with ABS plastic. I'm in the process of designing my own as well. I'm using a combination of Autodesk 123D Design and Autodesk Fusion 360. Fusion 360 is great for designing screw threads! I'll let you know how it turns out if I can find this thread again. If you ever want to download these, they're free!:

123D Design:

http://www.123dapp.com/design

Fusion 360:

http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/try-buy

[BartElroy]

What saber parts have you fabricated so far on your printer?

So far, I haven't gotten any production level parts. Mostly because I've been unhappy with either the design, or the quality of the print for one reason or other, but after my latest test run, I have a finalized design for a crystal chamber. It will be printed in Bronzefill, which is 90% bronze, 10% PLA. I have a switch pack which will hold 2 12 mm AV switches and a recharge port. I think the design on that is done, I just need to print one off because I adjusted the depth of my counter bores for the switches, and I need to make sure it will still slide through the hilt cleanly. I've got an LED holder for the two crystal chamber LED's I'll be running, one at each end, but I changed from a standard 5MM LED to a Piranha 5MM, so I need to test the new design. I just designed a speaker mount this weekend, and haven't had a chance to run off a test print yet, but it should work fine. The biggest struggle has been the sound board and battery holder. I've been trying to make the design work so I can mount the sound board bottom up. That way the surface mount components are protected and it's easier to access the SD card. Sadly, I had to give that idea up, because there isn't enough room, so I had to redesign the chassis to mount the board right side up. I'll be doing a full parts run this weekend, but the end result should be a fully 3D printed Chassis that will allow me the slide all my guts out of the saber in one piece, except for the LED module (I can't figure out a way to attach the LED module to the chassis without a custom housing)

[TheSilverDark]

Quick question, but using PLA what wall thickness do you guys prefer? I'm currently at an 1/8 in because I have the room to do it, but if I can go thinner, I might need to in certain places.

[FenixFire]

I would go with ABS plastic. I'm in the process of designing my own as well. I'm using a combination of Autodesk 123D Design and Autodesk Fusion 360. Fusion 360 is great for designing screw threads! I'll let you know how it turns out if I can find this thread again. If you ever want to download these, they're free!:

123D Design:

http://www.123dapp.com/design

Fusion 360:

http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/try-buy

As a professional designer of 15 years, do not model the threads, FDM printing and even SLA printing do not have the resolution or tolerance control to create the #4 or even #6 threads. The are easy enough to tap once printed. Just size the hole to the drill size of the specific thread requirement.

Fusion is only $350 or so a year, every once and a while they run a special for $25. Considering it is almost as powerful as software costing $1200 - $2500 a year it is a steal.

[FenixFire]

Quick question, but using PLA what wall thickness do you guys prefer? I'm currently at an 1/8 in because I have the room to do it, but if I can go thinner, I might need to in certain places.

From prototyping experience not sabersmithing; if it will be even remotely structural in terms of holding the internal components in place, I would keep it above 0.060" if just cosmetic 0.03" to 0.040". Though these are heavily dependent on the quality of the printer and its resolution, and if it has a heated build chamber or not. Heated chambers with 16 micron or better layers can get 70-80% shear strength. Most DIY printers get 40-50% shear strength.

If trying to build actual hilt or blade holder components that are intended for more than a display piece....don't unless you are using a Fortus or other machine that can run glass or mineral filled ABS. Even then you are going to want a 0.125" - 0.250" wall or better.

[FenixFire]

Sadly, I had to give that idea up, because there isn't enough room, so I had to redesign the chassis to mount the board right side up. I'll be doing a full parts run this weekend, but the end result should be a fully 3D printed Chassis that will allow me the slide all my guts out of the saber in one piece, except for the LED module (I can't figure out a way to attach the LED module to the chassis without a custom housing)

What about using one of the 1" led holders in the end of the chassis, and an aluminum(metal) ring inserted and set screw fastened into the blade holder as the blade stop to prevent any blade impact force from being transmitted into the chassis.

[TheSilverDark]

From prototyping experience not sabersmithing; if it will be even remotely structural in terms of holding the internal components in place, I would keep it above 0.060" if just cosmetic 0.03" to 0.040". Though these are heavily dependent on the quality of the printer and its resolution, and if it has a heated build chamber or not. Heated chambers with 16 micron or better layers can get 70-80% shear strength. Most DIY printers get 40-50% shear strength.

If trying to build actual hilt or blade holder components that are intended for more than a display piece....don't unless you are using a Fortus or other machine that can run glass or mineral filled ABS. Even then you are going to want a 0.125" - 0.250" wall or better.
Its part of the chassis, literally just holding switches/battery/board, routing wires etc