Sticky subject: Glue for blade tips

[Zhi-don]

At our saber class we are constantly losing the tips off our 1 inch poly blades. Does anyone know of a glue that will keep this from happening?

We need something really STRONG!

[JediHilt]

Have you tried a clear apoxie yet?

[Zhi-don]

No....how well does it hold?

[Lord Maul]

use Weld on 3!!!!! it is the ONLY thing that will work. tim uses it
http://www.rplastics.com/weldon3.html

[Zhi-don]

Thanks, but it's Tim's tips that are flying off.

[Lord Maul]

dang, what the heck are you doing with those things. i've heard that with weld on you will shatter the tip of the blade before the tip comes off :shock:

[Zhi-don]

Nothing but normal dueling....not even at full power. It appears that Tim has 2 types of tips, the ones without the shoulder are the ones that are coming off.

[james3]

I think we have had this topic come up before. There is no way to keep them from popping off. I use 3M plastic adhesive and that to me is much better then the Weld-On3 as I have have had less tips fly off with using it but it can still happen.

Bottom line is you can't beat some good scotch tape up there.

[Zhi-don]

What we need is a material that will weld polycarb to polycarb.

[vortextwist]

My brother found some stuff called, stix-on contact an all purpose adhesive. seems to work fairly well. this web site was on it. www.powerpoxy.com

[supertrogdor]

even with weld on, or epoxy, if you wrap some clear scotch tape in a couple layers and different directions around your seam, it holds better. I have still popped off a few tips that way, but if you re-tape it often enough they will stay. Another plus is that it is not terribly noticable, especially in the dim light or dark, with the saber on

[james3]

Do they have something that is not colored? Most of the plastic welds are nice but they have some tint to them.
That is the main reason I am still using the 3M stuff. It is clear, bonds very well and has a little of that gummy factor that helps keep the pieces together.

That guy that melted down the end of the blade in to a tip really had the one sure way to "Get er done" :wink:

[Ryma Mara]

use Weld on 3!!!!! it is the ONLY thing that will work. tim uses it
http://www.rplastics.com/weldon3.html

to bad its not the "ONLY" thing that works. I sed this stuff called stix-on contact, Its a glue thats used for metals, plastics and soemthing else. its in a purple package and says its 4 times stronger than super glue but its not instant. and it drys clear.

I though tit worked quite well myself.

[vortextwist]

Do they have something that is not colored? Most of the plastic welds are nice but they have some tint to them.
That is the main reason I am still using the 3M stuff. It is clear, bonds very well and has a little of that gummy factor that helps keep the pieces together.

That guy that melted down the end of the blade in to a tip really had the one sure way to "Get er done" :wink:
that's "git r done"

[xwingband]

Yeah, in that case you may be out of luck. The first step would be shouldered tips. That'll help immediately. All it takes is one decent swing and the non-shouldered ones are off.

According to Novastar under constant use the shouldered tips ones still come off after a few weeks. bummer... I'm glad I don't duel that often.

[Zhi-don]

Funny we have never had an MR FX tip come off. I wonder what they use on thiers. The LED's bust, but the blades stay intact.....go figure.

[vortextwist]

maybe becouse the mr blades give a little more. Not being so ridgid.

[Zhi-don]

Very true. They are 1/16 inch walled and not 1/8 inch. They are more rigid because of the foam inserts that hold the LEDs.

[xwingband]

Funny we have never had an MR FX tip come off. I wonder what they use on thiers. The LED's bust, but the blades stay intact.....go figure.

The FX tips go in way deep. Maybe 1/2". They're also glued to the diffuser and end of the blade.

Odd fact... I found bouncing the MR blade on the tip gets the tip off pretty cleanly. :lol:

[Yoiaholic]

When I got my Windu Fx the tip wasn't glued on. For me that was great since I wanted to use a thin walled blade and corbin's film. I really think though that the best thing to use is a thin clear piece of tape on the seam. I have that on my Windu right now and unless you really really look for it you can't see it if you put it on correctly.

Probably not what you want to hear but it works very well, no glue mess to clean up, just make sure you cut a thin piece.

[jjshumpert]

just bouncing the mr blade on its tip will free it x? now thats a worthwhile tip!

[xwingband]

Yeah, I was doing mostly out of boredom and the "whoo, look at how high it goes!" idiocy. Next thing I know the diffuser stayed on the ground and the PolyC tube jumped. :shock: The repeated impacts straight down jarred it off cleanly.

[Zhi-don]

Well I am going to order a poly tube, diffuser and shouldered tip from Tim and try some different things. Then I will take it to class and have them beat the crap out of it. I will keep you posted on what happens.

[Mi Gin Gonn]

Just a question out of curiosity...has anybody tried using acetone like Ultra reccomended? he claimed it seamlessly bonded polyc to polyc. I haven't tried it personally, just wondering if anybody else had.