2015 Hasbro Bladebuilders diagram

[soundwave809]

This diagram is for the 2015 Hasbro Bladebuilder soundboards. I quickly drew this up for myself when I started using the soundboards a few months back, and I figured it might help others if there was any confusion. It is pretty much drawn out the way the board looks, so it should be pretty easy to follow. I have built 7 sabers off this diagram so its pretty solid.

I have used it with the Luxeon Rebel's and a 4 AAA battery pack.

I've wired it with and without the flicker effect which is easy to do. For the flicker effect, just solder a wire connection between the LED neg and Speaker neg. If you don't like it, just desolder the wire and everything else stays the same, easy! I, personally, prefer the flicker though.

I would also recommend desoldering all the old wires from the board because they are very thin, cheap and easily break.

Can't beat a decent soundboard for $15-$20 bucks!

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[CET]

I've been struggling with a similar build. I looked up the tip42 pnp transistor, but there are many different types of them. Which one specifically for you use?

[soundwave809]

If you have a Radio Shack near by they carry them.https://www.radioshack.com/products/tip42g-pnp-trans?variant=5717611781

[CET]

I got the transistor (TIP42g), but I'm not getting blade lights. Facing forward the pins are Base (board LED negative), Collector (LED positive), Emitter. (board power positive). I've even swapped the wires around positions, just in case.

[utlonghorns416]

I have a new board bc I burnt the first board :mad:, going to get some thinner solder per your advice soundwave805. What switch are you running do you have a diagram for that? I have a 6 pin momentarty led switch. I have the listed pnp along also have a spare buckpuck 1000ma I could use. What size resistor if I dont use the buckpuck?

[FenixFire]

CET when I did mine I went straight from the battery+ to the transistor, don't think it makes a difference but could try. Used the 42c.

[CET]

CET when I did mine I went straight from the battery+ to the transistor, don't think it makes a difference but could try. Used the 42c.

I did it both ways and it seemed to make no difference.

Your link went to the 42g, so that's what I went out and got. Guess I'll have to go find a 42c.

[FenixFire]

Wasn't my link, but the other thread listed both the c and g version.

[CET]

Sorry, you're right. I'll STFU now.

[soundwave809]

I have a new board bc I burnt the first board :mad:, going to get some thinner solder per your advice soundwave805. What switch are you running do you have a diagram for that? I have a 6 pin momentarty led switch. I have the listed pnp along also have a spare buckpuck 1000ma I could use. What size resistor if I dont use the buckpuck?

Depends which color led you use.

[soundwave809]

I got the transistor (TIP42g), but I'm not getting blade lights. Facing forward the pins are Base (board LED negative), Collector (LED positive), Emitter. (board power positive). I've even swapped the wires around positions, just in case.

That's the correct positions on the tip42g transistor. Can you post a pic of your wiring?

[utlonghorns416]

I have a cree xpe2 blue only using 2 of the three dices

[kmcc505]

This diagram helped me. Thx for posting.

[soundwave809]

I have a cree xpe2 blue only using 2 of the three dices

I try to stay with a single die with these econo boards. Not to say that the multi die leds won't work but the less strain I can put on them the better. You should probably be good with 1ohm resistor on each positive with a 3.7v source or a 2.7ohm with a 6v source.

[Bossman]

Hey thanks for the diagram! Really helped me figure most of this out.
I do have a couple of questions though. I'm modding two Ultrasabers stunt sabers with these 2015 Hasbro boards. The sabers both have 4 aaa battery boxes and latching type switches, not momentary.
Can I run 4 aaa's with your diagram? Also can I run the latching type switches or should I find momentary switches for it?

Thanks,
-Bossman

[soundwave809]

Hey thanks for the diagram! Really helped me figure most of this out.
I do have a couple of questions though. I'm modding two Ultrasabers stunt sabers with these 2015 Hasbro boards. The sabers both have 4 aaa battery boxes and latching type switches, not momentary.
Can I run 4 aaa's with your diagram? Also can I run the latching type switches or should I find momentary switches for it?

Thanks,
-Bossman

No problem, I run mine on 4AAA batteries, just make sure you resistor the led. As far as I know the hasbro boards are only compatible with momentary switches.

[Bossman]

1326313262Ok, so I just wired it all up. Have sound, motion and clash...but no led. Double checked the diagram vs what I have. I'm using the resistor that was already on the negative lead from US, but I put it onto the positive leg as the diagram shows. Still nothing. I'll post a few pics for giggles. What specific resistor is recommended or did I miss that in the thread? Any advice is appreciated.
1326013261

-Bossman

[soundwave809]

1326313262Ok, so I just wired it all up. Have sound, motion and clash...but no led. Double checked the diagram vs what I have. I'm using the resistor that was already on the negative lead from US, but I put it onto the positive leg as the diagram shows. Still nothing. I'll post a few pics for giggles. What specific resistor is recommended or did I miss that in the thread? Any advice is appreciated.
1326013261

-Bossman

What LED are you using, how many volts is your power source, and what resistor are you using? Hard to tell from the pics.

[Bossman]

I'm using the quad AAA battery holder that came with the saber from Ultrasabers and running rechargable NiMH batteries. Just took the bulb assembly apart and saw that the LED is a Luxdrive A007 Indus red single diode. The resistor that came mounted on the LED from US is stamped 2.0 ohm 5% 3W. It was mounted on the negative lead but switched it over to the positive per your diagram. I added the TIP 42g transistor to the back side and wired it as the diagram stated.
I ran new 20 ga. solid wire up from the original Hasboro speaker, and also new 20 ga. to all of the board connections, with the exception of the Hasbro momentary switch. The pictures also show the liquid electrical tape I used in the connections after I soldered them, (its not melted insulation)

13265132661326713268

-Bossman

[soundwave809]

I'm using the quad AAA battery holder that came with the saber from Ultrasabers and running rechargable NiMH batteries. Just took the bulb assembly apart and saw that the LED is a Luxdrive A007 Indus red single diode. The resistor that came mounted on the LED from US is stamped 2.0 ohm 5% 3W. It was mounted on the negative lead but switched it over to the positive per your diagram. I added the TIP 42g transistor to the back side and wired it as the diagram stated.
I ran new 20 ga. solid wire up from the original Hasboro speaker, and also new 20 ga. to all of the board connections, with the exception of the Hasbro momentary switch. The pictures also show the liquid electrical tape I used in the connections after I soldered them, (its not melted insulation)

13265132661326713268

-Bossman

Do you have the LED negative wire soldered from the tip 42 to the LED negative on the bottom of the board, and than another soldered wire to the actual LED neg from the same spot?

[Bossman]

The neg wire from the LED is attached to the LED - on the board, in through the top. The one leg from the tip42 is bent around and soldered to the same location.

[soundwave809]

The neg wire from the LED is attached to the LED - on the board, in through the top. The one leg from the tip42 is bent around and soldered to the same location.

If you have it wired correctly than I'm not sure. Maybe, you have a short some place or a bridge.

[Bossman]

Im going to go through the entire board again and check for a bridge, but im wondering if i need a different resistor for it given the change from stand alone led to now going through the board circuit.

Any advice on that?

[soundwave809]

Im going to go through the entire board again and check for a bridge, but im wondering if i need a different resistor for it given the change from stand alone led to now going through the board circuit.

Any advice on that?

No, your resistor should be fine because your power source and led are still the same. If you're going to redo your wiring I would use 28 gauge. Less chance of bridges, easier to cram in and work with.

[Bossman]

Good ideas, thanks for all of the help! Hopefully I'll be able to figure it out.

Cheers,
-Bossman

[Bossman]

Update:
I bought another new Bladebuilder saber and only clipped the LED prongs, so that there was no soldering issues for testing. I used a set of test leads to hook up to the existing wires, a brand new transistor and wired it up per the diagram. Still getting just sound and motion only. No light.

I saw someones post above about using a C versus G transistor. Anyone know what the difference would be or have a better solution?

Thanks
-Bossman

[grumblehound]

sorry not trying to hijack this post but got 4 blade builder lightsabers to use the sound boards . they all behave strange .... on them you get random clash sounds and light sometimes even when they are stationary.... you get the clash sound and light instead of the motion sound again random then they move and it seems the only way to get the motion sound is to bang it then you get the motion sound but no clash sound or light flash ......it all seemed very strange thought it might be loose wire /short so took one apart the sound board is unlike any I have seen before or on this forum check out the pictures I need some help with this.... the back of the board is blank apart from one component guessing a motion sensor
any advice please 1330813309

[soundwave809]

Update:
I bought another new Bladebuilder saber and only clipped the LED prongs, so that there was no soldering issues for testing. I used a set of test leads to hook up to the existing wires, a brand new transistor and wired it up per the diagram. Still getting just sound and motion only. No light.

I saw someones post above about using a C versus G transistor. Anyone know what the difference would be or have a better solution?

Thanks
-Bossman

Here are some pics of a board I wired up a while back. Maybe, it will help with double checking everything.
133141331513316

[Pequod00]

sorry not trying to hijack this post but got 4 blade builder lightsabers to use the sound boards . they all behave strange .... on them you get random clash sounds and light sometimes even when they are stationary.... you get the clash sound and light instead of the motion sound again random then they move and it seems the only way to get the motion sound is to bang it then you get the motion sound but no clash sound or light flash ......it all seemed very strange thought it might be loose wire /short so took one apart the sound board is unlike any I have seen before or on this forum check out the pictures I need some help with this.... the back of the board is blank apart from one component guessing a motion sensor
any advice please 1330813309

Hi i have the same problem. The solution its easy, you need to wire a swing sensor on the holes touching the " S " on the SW in the center of the sound card ( under C2 ), you also can rewire the negative on the V- hole and replace or leave the clash sensor i replaced it. I hope that help you, and sorry about my english. heheheheh

The components gone to made more cheaper the cards. Horrible!!!

[Twiz]

Hi all! New to this whole saber building thing, and I purchased the Obi Wan bladebuilders saber to use as the sound card in my first saber. So what do you all think about the sound it produces? Pretty good?

[Silver Serpent]

It's better than no sound, but not as good as a Plecter board (Nano Biscotte, Petit Crouton, etc.).

[Twiz]

I figured as much. being new to this whole process, I figure I would start off cheap. I was looking into doing a pico crumble for my next venture. We shall see how this build goes....

[cheddarcat2]

Hey I'm new, but i figured out Bossman's problem. Solder according to the pictures on page three. In other words, have the 2 black wires coming from the neg port, and connect them to the neg on the LED and black on the battery. The single wire on the - LED should be connected to the TIP42. I had the same problem and had to troubleshoot.

[theillest]

I was able to pull the soundcard out of a cheapy and tape the black and red to my existing Ultrasaber battery. EITHER the sound OR the light work but not both. Questions: 1) How do I get both to work at the same time? Do i need a resister or some sort? 2) is there a way to combine the switches so I don't have to power on the light and the sound individually?

[thetang22]

So I'm trying this for the first time using the Obi-Wan 2015 Bladebuilders soundboard (though it looks slightly different). I have run into what I'm guessing is a critical problem:

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As shown in the pic, the spot for the LED- looks like the metallic base on the soundboard no longer exists (shown by the red arrow, compared to the green examples that still have the metallic base). I was trying to remove the LED that was attached to it and it was being a major pain in the butt. When I finally was able to get it to come off, it seems like it may have ripped the metallic base of that spot in the process. If that is the case, is this soundboard basically unusable now?

What do people do about the attached LED? Do you just clip it off instead of removing it at the solder joint?

Also, in the diagram, it appears as though the Tip42 transistor has been connected to the soundboard directly. How is this done? Is it just a crude attachment with super glue or hot glue, or something more sophisticated?

Thanks for any help.

[Darkwolf]

I used hot glue to attach the tip 42

[Darkwolf]

I need some help as well maybe i am wiring wrong tip 42g i have pin 1 black wire to board led neg. Pin 2 led module postive wire. Pin 3 i have board positve and battery positve wired.. led module negative and battery negative to board negative.. for av luminated switch i have a positibe wire connectedd to led module parallel and negative led module parallel to positve amd negative switch..but my green led module still dim..��

[Darkwolf]

The board is still good just use a knife tip and scrap off the trail not hard just enough to get exposed the metallic trail than go to radio shack and get a conductor pen and retrace it.. board back to normal. I had this issue and it fixed it

[Darkwolf]

Try this trick with out the transistor worked for me on the 2015 wire the led + to post one on the speaker pin and led negative to the speajer pin2 ..looks like the speaker pins privide enough power to handle both and give full brightness

[Whosle]

I got mine to work accorsing to first page diagram.

Thanks for this! Nice flicker with the speaker.