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View Full Version : Eager beginner in need of help with first saber



Muggle
01-31-2016, 12:56 PM
I've been lurking through these forums and watching Madcow's videos, trying to learn as much as I can about building a custom saber, and I think I've finally come up with a design that suits me:

http://i.imgur.com/VZh2jja.png

This is my first build, and it may be an ambitious one. There are things that I want, but I'm not sure what I can reasonably add beyond the most basic things (electronic wise). I want the electronics and chassis to be as basic and simple to put together as possible. I have watched through Madcow's video Basic Saber with Sound Part 2, and that's what I'm shooting for. However, I would for sure like to have flash-on-clash, and if possible I'd also like lock-up & sound effects. I would love some advice and help before I make any purchases. My biggest question is how I can set up the chassis for the design I've come up with, including features I'd like to have.

Here are my parts:
MPS Style 5
MPS Insert Style 6
Hilt Style 2
Choke Style 2
BH Style 3
Machined Covertech Button & 8-23 x 3/8" Socket Head
Bezel for illuminated Switch
Kill Plug
Sleeve Material
Different 8-32 thread knobs for securing sleeves and blade

These are the parts that I'm confident I need. However, I'm not sure what holes I'll need where. I watched the video on drilling and tapping for the blade screw, so I can figure out how to do the same for the screws that secure the sleeve material. However, I don't know where the kill key hole needs to go.

The following are chassis and electronics that I'm uncertain about. I would like to know if the modular wiring system is a good option for the Tri Cree LEDs needed for flash on clash.

Bass speaker
MHS Speaker Mount V4
4-40 all thread (x2)
Brass OD tube (x2)
Brass 4-40 hexnut (x2)
Black Acrylic Chassis for - NB & 18650 battery; Disc for recharge port
Chassis Disk Style 4
2.1mm Power Jack
16mm antivandal Green Latching Switch
Li-Ion 18650 3.7W battery
Nano Biscotte Chip
Power Extender Chip
G/G/W TriCree LED, TriCree lens, and thermal tape
(I don't know where I get the LED Chassis or Heat sink, but I know I need them.)
.5ohm 3w resistor
3.7v smart charger
Whatever wires I need if I can't use MWS

I think that is everything. Again, I'd love some feedback, help and advice with anything I might be neglecting. I plan on buying all the chassis parts before any of the MHS Body, but if it's better to have everything and then begin building, I'll do that.

Thanks for checking this out!

NanoRex
01-31-2016, 01:58 PM
I really like the design. If you want lockup and auxiliary effects, then you will need a second momentary switch, and you will have to step up to the next level of sound board, either PRIZM or Petit Crouton. Otherwise you can stick with the NB. The new version of the NB doesn't require a Power Extender for Flash on Clash.

As for the kill key hole, you'll need to measure out where the kill key will end up once you've built your chassis, and drill a hole there that is large enough to accommodate the kill key.

I would recommend not using the modular wiring system. Doing your own soldering will help you save space and make neater wiring.

Greenie
01-31-2016, 02:20 PM
Welcome to the forum. Agreed, that is a nice design. I look forward to seeing it built. I'm sure Madcow tells you so, but get more than one thermal tape pad ;-)

MTFBWY :mrgreen:

darth_chasm
01-31-2016, 02:52 PM
Welcome aboard. Nice design.


get more than one thermal tape pad ;-)

MTFBWY :mrgreen:

This should be in your signature :)

Muggle
02-01-2016, 04:12 PM
I really like the design. If you want lockup and auxiliary effects, then you will need a second momentary switch, and you will have to step up to the next level of sound board, either PRIZM or Petit Crouton. Otherwise you can stick with the NB. The new version of the NB doesn't require a Power Extender for Flash on Clash.

As for the kill key hole, you'll need to measure out where the kill key will end up once you've built your chassis, and drill a hole there that is large enough to accommodate the kill key.

I would recommend not using the modular wiring system. Doing your own soldering will help you save space and make neater wiring.

Sounds good, thanks! Would you reccomend, then, that I have all my parts before I assemble the chassis?

NanoRex
02-01-2016, 04:32 PM
Not necessarily. You can build as you go if you'd like. Just make sure you do things in a way that you don't accidentally do something permanent, then find out it won't work that way.

girot
02-15-2016, 08:21 PM
Not necessarily. You can build as you go if you'd like. Just make sure you do things in a way that you don't accidentally do something permanent, then find out it won't work that way.

What he said. My first build is waiting for its fifth rewire, lol.