Lux Brightness vs. MR

[mikeclem]

Hi,

I've been reading the forum for a while now - but this is my first post.

I'm based in the UK and have built a couple of LUX sabers (one for a friend, one for me :) ) I've also got a Darth Maul MR (double).

My query is that of birghtness of the Lux. I certainly understand that the quality of the light is different between a stock MR and a Lux - but I have a query about the brightness. I first built a 3W Royal Blue followed by a 5W Green. The Royal Blue was OK but not great and I had high hopes for the 5W Green. I've read several posts which talk about Lux's knocking MR's in to a ****ed hat - but this is just not my experience.

Certainly the Lux 5 is good - but it is still not brighter than my Darth Maul MR - only where the blade flares at the bottom is it equal in intensity.

I'm confident that I'm getting the best of out the Lux (I have a good electronics background). However, because I'm based in the UK I'm mostly sourcing parts from various suppliers over here (I wish someone would open a UK saber shop). I've got a 25mm (1") PC tube using a Lee 450 diffuser for the blade.

Please don't think I'm not happy with my Lux sabers - it's just from the posts I've read I get the impression they should be a lot brighter than my MR - which they aren't.

Oh, and many thanks to all who have posted and have helped me with my saber construction.

Mike

[xwingband]

Depends on the color and what you are using.

I don't know what that diffuser is, but a good one makes all the difference. There has to be something off because a 5W Green (that color specifically too) should kick the pants off an MR. The Red MR's in particular suck pretty badly next to the a red luxeon.

I wouldn't say they'd be "a lot" brighter but they should be noticable brighter.

[mikeclem]

Thanks for the prompt reply Xwing.

Yes, I was aware of the difference in perceived colour - which was why I specifically ordered the 5W Green.

The diffuser was the train of thought I was working on. The Lee filters have been discussed on the forum before - but mostly in terms of adding a coloured filter to a white Lux. FYI the link to Lee filters is:

http://www.leefilters.com/LP1.asp?PageID=44

I'd be happy to buy one (or more) of Tim's diffusers, but the postage to the UK makes this prohibitively expensive. Any suggestions on an alternative I could try?

Mike

[xwingband]

I didn't mention it before because it escaped me to add it in, but would shipping from France be better?

Erv of www.plecterlabs.com has lightsaber supplies and carries Corbin's film.

Or... I'd look for something similar to Tim's. Where ever you got the PolyC would probably be able to get you nylon tubes. That's essentially what Tim's is, a 1/32" thick nylon tube.

I also noticed Lee there has ones with higher light transmission. Did you try those?

[mikeclem]

I'm assuming the nylon tube is the semi-opaque flexible tubing often used for fish tanks and the like?

I did have a look at Erv's film but didn't realise that it was the same as Corbin's. I may contact him to find out how much to post to the UK. I wouldn't be surprised if it is one of the Lee filters (there are over 800!).

Would you recommend one over the other (nylon vs. corbin's film).

The Lee diffuser I'm currently using is lighter than the one I tried originally. The issue seems to be containing the light in the tube. With the current diffuser, it lights up a room well, but the blade itself appears weak (similar to turning on with no diffuser - but not as marked of course).

Obviously I'd like to source something from the UK if possible to keep postage costs down (especially for such a low cost component).

Mike

[xwingband]

Nylon is actually a opaque and rigid tubing. It's one of the more rigid plastic out there. What you're thinking of is more like the HDPE that EL sabes use. That would work okay if you could find some really thin stuff.

Yup, Erv's "magic diffuser paper" is Corbin's stuff. To make the extension/retraction of his board work he needs it.

It's probably not a leefilter. Corbin once used the phrasing "polycarbonate substrate" and bodi recently posted this:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2068
That same description leads me to think that product may be it... I still don't need a whole roll of the stuff. :lol: Corbin scratches it too for the cored looked.

As for which I prefer. Without a doubt I prefer the look of Corbin's film. That core down the blade just does it for me. I'd have to same though it depends on the person. Some don't care for it and like the solid look. Nylon would give that and so would other clear films wrapped.

Clear films might be an option depending on how much work you want to do. I personally can't stand it, but it's definately something you'll have more luck finding locally. First I'd look for clear mylar or acetate. Those are usually heftier and will be less likely to get wrinkles when put in. Lastly I'd look for PolyP. This is thinner and likes to cling, but it's the same stuff florists use. Very easy to find.

[mikeclem]

I've just tried some acetate - and no, I don't like it either. Yes, the blade is brighter, but doesn't have any solidity to it (it looks like a plastic tube with a light at the bottom!).

So, I've e-mailed Erv and hopefully he'll come back to me on shipping costs about Corbin's film. I see that some people 'double wrap' - just a matter of preference?

Oh, I followed the post to the POC plastics website and I see they also do it in sheets as well as rolls.

http://www.poc.com/lsd/default.asp?page=overview&sub=lsdsheets

Thanks for all your suggestions - I'll let you know how I get on.

Mike

[mikeclem]

Right, Erv got back to me in double quick time and I've ordered a sheet of the 'magic film'.

Just out of interest I came across the following article which is interesting and adds weight to the theory that this is Corbin's film.

http://ledsmagazine.com/articles/features/1/10/2/1

Mike

[SilentBob501]

I just want to know, are you using a reflective disk in the tip of the blade, that could greatly affect brightness?

[mikeclem]

Yes, I should have mentioned this before.

I'm using a disk of Lee filters 271 (cut from the swatch book) which is essentially a mirror.

Mike

[xwingband]

I've just tried some acetate - and no, I don't like it either. Yes, the blade is brighter, but doesn't have any solidity to it (it looks like a plastic tube with a light at the bottom!).

Mike

How much acetate? That's what Ultra uses and it works really well. I believe he uses between 3 and 5 feet of the stuff.

Either way if you have some coming from Erv you should do fine then. Double wrap does make a difference. It depends on how defined you want the core. Since you have acetate I'd keep it around and play with it once you get Erv's.

Corbin's kind plays up that it comes from the bottom. If you add about two wraps of that acetate it should look a lot like the completed blades Erv sells.

[mikeclem]

It was just an A4 sheet that was double wrapped (just to get the idea).

I'll let you know how I get on once the film arrives from Erv - he's going to post it on Tuesday. Now that's service - on a Sunday as well.

Mike

[LAN-ED-TUL]

i have both a single and dbl wrap of corbins diffuser sheeting and tims tube in another blade. tims tube makes it mor uniform and look like a MR FX, the single wrap gives a difined core effect, and the dbl wrap is lesser of a core effect, but more evenly lit.

i like all 3 types myself, it just depends on the mood im in, if i want a mr type look to show off how much brighter the lux is over a dealer pushin his stock MR's, i use the tim tube blade.

i can see a big difference in brightness myself, and im only running the 3 watters running off hasbro sound boards.

been wantin to try a 5 watt with no sound in a mhs build. just havent done it yet.

[mikeclem]

The diffuser arrived on Friday morning and seems to have done just the trick. I'm very happy with the blade now!

So happy in fact, that while playing, sorry, training with a friend on Friday evening I managed to split my eye open with the hilt of my Maul MR requiring a trip to the emergency clinic to get it closed. And yes, I did feel rather silly having to explain the mechanism of injury.

Thanks for all your help.

Mike

[Lord Maul]

well, that one had to hurt :D
what part of the maul hit your eye??
must of been doing some extreme dueling :shock:

[mikeclem]

I had left the threaded joining piece on the end of the hilt but was using it as a single sabre. It was this threaded piece (which is not an inconsiderable piece of metal) that caught the supra-orbit of my left eye. I think it then must have grazed across laterally striking my temple (the zygomatic process) which is where it split my head open.

So don't go thinking this is a nice clean duelling scar - it's a corker of a black eye with a ragged cut to go along with it.

I think I was on the upswing and it just caught under the orbit. Yes, it did hurt. Didn't Qui Gon go out by being hit in a similar manner?

As we say in Scotland: 'it was a right smack in the gub'.

Mike

[Lord Maul]

qui gon was smacked in the face with mauls saber and then stabbed. no gashed eye in that case :P

[vortextwist]

he was a "jedi"