Korbanth Graflex 2.0 1st Saber Build list

[erlomd]

Thanks to the contribution of members here and their advices, I have been able to come up with a pretty good parts list for my Korbanth Graflex.

Here is a list of parts Ive purchased and you tube videos that I have found helpful.

-Graflex 2.0 Lightsaber

-Nano Biscotte v3 or v2 (whatever becomes available first...hopefully the v3)...if anyone knows where and how I can get my hands on either it will be most appreciated!

-2w 28mm Bass speaker

-3D printed Chassis for the NBv2 or v3

-18650 Lithium Ion Battery

-3.7 Volt Charger

-2.1mm Recharging Port

-BLUE/BLUE/WHITE Tri Cree Xpe2 LED & Heatsink (sold separately from the same place):

-Various assortment of colored wire 28awg and 30awg

-7/8 Blade

I haven't decided on weather I want a clamp activation switch or the standard switch on the top.

[erlomd]

Update:

I just ordered 7/8 Blade plugs

13145
13151

[erlomd]

And here are some pictures of my LED's & Heat sink that cam in the mail the other day...Very Excited as you can tell :)

1314613147131481314913150

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Posting links to competitors products is prohibited on the forum...please edit your post to remove them, per the Forum Guidelines: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?7360-Forum-Guidelines-All-members-please-read

[erlomd]

whoops...:) got carried away

[erlomd]

learning as I go guys, but apparently (as if everyone knows this except for me) you need a thermal sticker under your LED board to be held in place to the heat sink.
here is a link to TCSS part I am referring to: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Star-thermal-tape-pad-P483.aspx


not breaking the bank or anything but just some FYI.

as for updates...graflex is on hold as well as the NBv3 until more inventory is made available...Ive learned to be patient and mindful of my my thoughts.:)

[Silver Serpent]

They're cheap. Grab a couple or three. Just in case you need to remove the LED for soldering work.

[x-4creator135]

Posting links to competitors products is prohibited on the forum...please edit your post to remove them, per the Forum Guidelines: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?7360-Forum-Guidelines-All-members-please-read


We are all one with the Force, we all love star wars, and we all are doing this hard complicated process for one purpose...to be the Jedi or Sith we were destined to be. Competitors for business sure but truly everyone is one with the force with each other. Everyone coming together and spending hours and hours of either actual working on a saber or just making forum posts and videos explaining in depth of how to create this lifetime dream in front of your eyes with your own hands.
MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU :lol:

[erlomd]

Just ordered my NBv3!!! finally can't wait:o

[DeathlyTaco]

Just ordered my NBv3!!! finally can't wait:o

I think I'm almost at the same place as with you in build progress, just got word my NBV3 shipped.

Mind if I ask what you decided on a chassis?

[erlomd]

I think I'm almost at the same place as with you in build progress, just got word my NBV3 shipped.

Mind if I ask what you decided on a chassis?

I just received notification that it shipped as well!

Im using a GOTH 3D Printed Padawan Chassis

13231

[FenixFire]

I just received notification that it shipped as well!

Im using a GOTH 3D Printed Padawan Chassis

13231

Nice looking chassis but a rough looking surface even for an sls prototype. When you get it is it a model you send for printing or is it a fully printed part?

[erlomd]

Nice looking chassis but a rough looking surface even for an sls prototype. When you get it is it a model you send for printing or is it a fully printed part?

thanks...fully printed
It is a bit textured but I like it that way...feels sturdy as well...keeps everything nice and neat in there, TCSS has th standard discs and rods to hold everything in place, and it works well but I like the originality of this chassis and comes with a kill key that you just turn as an on/off switch...not necessarily having to pull out the switch entirely.
you still have to do some mods like drilling holes into the grenade section so secure the chassis onto the saber itself.
check out this link for more info and a crystal chamber chassis version which looks like a lot more work: http://imperialroyalarms.com/post/72458

1323413235

[erlomd]

I was looking around to find a real graflex glass Eye plug so that the light shines though it...but wow!!! is it $$$:

13241

and the replicas don't shine all the way through...so I think I came up with a good alternative by using an oil level sight glass instead!
I know I would have to drill the hole large enough and thread it to accept whichever size but it seems like a cool idea

13240

Thoughts?

[CET]

Clever! Are you going to keep it hexagonal out are you going to round off the corners?

[erlomd]

Clever! Are you going to keep it hexagonal out are you going to round off the corners?

rounded off knurled corners...hopefully...either that or a miniature porthole from a model submarine...lol...

http://www.harbormodels.com/site08/portholes_4.htm

[erlomd]

NBv3 has been delivered! awesome!!! can't wait to start wiring this here "el saber" up!

[maggard08@gmail.com]

Where did you find the heat sink?

[erlomd]

Where did you find the heat sink?

Etsy...guy by the name of saberbay

[ATDI]

And here are some pictures of my LED's & Heat sink that cam in the mail the other day...Very Excited as you can tell :)

1314613147131481314913150

You have the exact same parts as me. What resistor did you use? I am getting conflicting info.

[erlomd]

looks like if your running the Tri Cree in parallel, then all you need is one resistor...makes sense...heres a bad ass video from TCSS: BTW if you scroll down to the comments, one person asked this for his 3.7v battery and tri cree. The response was to just wire them in parallel and only one resistor is needed for the 2 blues...the white (FoC) will not need one



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CWIKMi-63c

[erlomd]

You have the exact same parts as me. What resistor did you use? I am getting conflicting info.

Thats great! you chose wisely...lol

Well, basically each LED will require its own resistor (if wired in series...wired in parallel only requires one resistor)...it took me a while to find the right mA for them because the forward currant in the LED description was too low at 350mA...baisically each LED has a forward currant of 1000mA and if your running a 3.7v rechargeable battery...each LED will require its own 1ohm 2w resistor ( (if wired in series...wired in parallel only requires one resistor)...found here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1ohm-2w-resistor-P21.aspx?ItemId=5230230

and be sure to get a star thermal pad to place the LEDs in the heatsink...I got mine here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Star-thermal-tape-pad-P483.aspx

I also have another thread on this forum regarding the same build which has pretty good responses from people here: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?19346-Building-my-first-Graflex-now-what


BTW: interestingly enough (if your running a NBv3 sound board) in the instruction manual, theres a section on page 9 i think, that says that the board itself has its own forward amp level adjustment setting and can actually be adjusted to fit the need of most LED's...so essentially it has its own built in resistor...but, given the fact that resistors are so damn cheap, and amperages tend to fluctuate when battery levels drop...in order to just play it safe...its better just to cough up the extra $1 on resistors for added protection.

[darth_chasm]

each LED will require its own 1ohm 2w resistor ( (if wired in series...wired in parallel only requires one resistor)

LEDs in series only need one resistor. But with an NB it doesn't really matter anyway because you can't run 2 LEDs in series anyway. The power supply is too low.

As for parallel, you can technically use one resistor for 2 LEDs in parallel; however, it is typically recommended to use a resistor on each LED. Their characteristics will most likely differ, which could lead to undesirable outcomes.

This may be of interest: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/22291/why-exactly-cant-a-single-resistor-be-used-for-many-parallel-leds

I'd rather resistor all my leds than have to possibly buy a new tri cree.

[erlomd]

LEDs in series only need one resistor. But with an NB it doesn't really matter anyway because you can't run 2 LEDs in series anyway. The power supply is too low.

As for parallel, you can technically use one resistor for 2 LEDs in parallel; however, it is typically recommended to use a resistor on each LED. Their characteristics will most likely differ, which could lead to undesirable outcomes.

This may be of interest: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/22291/why-exactly-cant-a-single-resistor-be-used-for-many-parallel-leds

I'd rather resistor all my leds than have to possibly buy a new tri cree.

Agreed...I have 5 resistors anyway that I ordered so, why not! :) Thanks Darth_Chasm

[ATDI]

Thats great! you chose wisely...lol

Well, basically each LED will require its own resistor (if wired in series...wired in parallel only requires one resistor)...it took me a while to find the right mA for them because the forward currant in the LED description was too low at 350mA...baisically each LED has a forward currant of 1000mA and if your running a 3.7v rechargeable battery...each LED will require its own 1ohm 2w resistor ( (if wired in series...wired in parallel only requires one resistor)...found here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1ohm-2w-resistor-P21.aspx?ItemId=5230230

and be sure to get a star thermal pad to place the LEDs in the heatsink...I got mine here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Star-thermal-tape-pad-P483.aspx

I also have another thread on this forum regarding the same build which has pretty good responses from people here: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?19346-Building-my-first-Graflex-now-what


BTW: interestingly enough (if your running a NBv3 sound board) in the instruction manual, theres a section on page 9 i think, that says that the board itself has its own forward amp level adjustment setting and can actually be adjusted to fit the need of most LED's...so essentially it has its own built in resistor...but, given the fact that resistors are so damn cheap, and amperages tend to fluctuate when battery levels drop...in order to just play it safe...its better just to cough up the extra $1 on resistors for added protection.

So you are saying i can basically twist the 2 blues together into 1 positive and 1 negative and add only one 1ohm 2w resistor total?

[NanoRex]

So you are saying i can basically twist the 2 blues together into 1 positive and 1 negative and add only one 1ohm 2w resistor total?

It is recommended to have two separate resistors (one for each LED) if you wire the LEDs in parallel. You may get undesired results if you choose to use only one resistor.

[ATDI]

It is recommended to have two separate resistors (one for each LED) if you wire the LEDs in parallel. You may get undesired results if you choose to use only one resistor.

OK, so If i add a resistor to each of the positive lines for each blue, can I the twist the 2 positives and 2 negatives into a single separate line for each?

[erlomd]

OK, so If i add a resistor to each of the positive lines for each blue, can I the twist the 2 positives and 2 negatives into a single separate line for each?

yeah, as long as each (+) line has its own individual resistor

Stole this from count voodoo...very nice diagram btw

http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l575/jessdog81/Saber%20Schematic.jpg

[Mrtoad883]

Wow that diagram is exactly the thing I need as a beginner. Thanks for posting that!

[erlomd]

Wow that diagram is exactly the thing I need as a beginner. Thanks for posting that!

no problem! whatever I find useful in building my saber I'll throw it in here :)

[Ben-cut-first]

As a beginner I agree, awesome diagram! I have a question. What are you using for your blade retention? I thought for sure the glass eye that came in the kit or the other screw would work as one but it sits flush inside the hilt. Thanks for everything you have posted so far!

[erlomd]

As a beginner I agree, awesome diagram! I have a question. What are you using for your blade retention? I thought for sure the glass eye that came in the kit or the other screw would work as one but it sits flush inside the hilt. Thanks for everything you have posted so far!

Thats a good question...the "glass eye" it came with should be long enough as the blade retention screw...if not, you might have gotten a short glass eye for some reason...
Ill be using the glass eye as a retention screw for now...but eventually I want a real/replica or functional glass eye/window in its place so that the light of the LED shines through when lit...I haven't really thought of where I would then place a new blade retention screw, but I was thinking of just drill and tapping a 4-40 retention screw plug here:

http://goth-customsabers.ftl-network.com/log/wp-content/uploads/IMG_4705.jpg

and using something like this as the retention screw...I would have to tackle that aspect as I get there...obviously not film correct, but inspired by Anakins AOTC saber...;)

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41VLRoPX5JL._SX342_.jpg 13280

that picture was taken from another blog but I just thought I'd use it for reference to give you a better Idea...by the way, check out page 2 of this forum and see what I mean about a "functional" glass eye

here is what ARKM (another board member with the same idea) had in mind...however, going this route will require drilling a large enough hole and tapping the appropriate thread for it to work and hopefully be thick enough to go through the thickness of the blade retention area on the Graflex 2.0...since the picture is taken from an original graflex...

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y237/Evil-Henchman/ARKM%20Saber%20Hilts/Graflex%20Replica%20-%20TFA%20Version/Graflex_eye_as_blade_retention_screw.jpg~original

[Ben-cut-first]

That glass eye idea is pretty sweet haha. I'm glad someone finally told me that the eye it came with is supposed to function as the blade retention screw because i just figured out the problem I was having. I was screwing in down to the metal but the screw never caught the plastic piece inside enough to kind of pull it to the inside of the wall which was making the screw sit flush. I just tightened it up as much as possible and it finally popped through, I think the thread on the end of the screw is a little wonky, but now that it popped through it seems to be fine. Thanks for the reply.

[erlomd]

That glass eye idea is pretty sweet haha. I'm glad someone finally told me that the eye it came with is supposed to function as the blade retention screw because i just figured out the problem I was having. I was screwing in down to the metal but the screw never caught the plastic piece inside enough to kind of pull it to the inside of the wall which was making the screw sit flush. I just tightened it up as much as possible and it finally popped through, I think the thread on the end of the screw is a little wonky, but now that it popped through it seems to be fine. Thanks for the reply.

no problem! glad it worked out!

heres a video of the "alternate blade retention screw location" I mentioned earlier...fast forward to 4:44 on the video:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFG4vFf-fPk

I think the reason he did that was because the glass eye didn't sit flush on the hilt when the blade was installed...so he cut a bit off the thread portion and used that other alternative screw for the blade retention in his case.

BTW...

That sound font for TFA he did sounds awesome!

[Mrtoad883]

Just waiting on Yoda to finish his crystal chassis so I can start my build!

[erlomd]

Just waiting on Yoda to finish his crystal chassis so I can start my build!

man thats gonna look great! keep us posted!

[SPACEMONKEY1]

erlomd, all I need to do is get my wires and resistors to start my build. I've been keeping up with your build thread as well as roninbjj's. Have a question about the resistor values. I have the BBW Tri Cree XP2. Calculating for the resistors using the values off the site I purchased it from I get this:

Blue

lf - 350mA
Vf - 3.1
source 3.7

Resistor: .5 watt 1.8 ohm

White

lf - 1050mA
Vf - 3.5
source 3.7

Resistor: 2w 1 ohm

Now I've been reading that the 350mA is a conservative value and that the blues and reds can be run with the same resistor that a white LED would use ( 2W 1 ohm) is this correct? Thanks for any info you have.

[erlomd]

yes thats correct...350mA is a conservative value.
If you've seen the earlier posts here, I was asking that same question as I too am new to the saber/LED scene...but after a while of asking around, I got the definitive answer.

...the tri crees can actually go a little over 1000mA, but really anything over 990mA is barely noticeable in brightness...the standard for resistor values for the tri crees (blue) thats powered by 3.7v is 1ohm 2w, so thats correct.

I also posted a wiring diagram on page 3 if you like :)

[darth_chasm]

...the standard for resistor values for the tri crees then are 1ohm 2w

Just to help clarify for anyone in the future that may be doing a blind search and come upon this statement. This statement lacks details and can be misleading. Suppose someone is using a different color or power supply of different voltage? The statement should read something along the lines of "1ohm 2w is an acceptable choice for a Blue Cree led that is being powered by a 3.7v power supply."

That said, you can actually get away with using the .47ohm .5w for a Blue Cree powered by 3.7v.

(3.7-3.47)/1 = 0.23 ohms
0.23*1^2 = 0.23 watts

Edit: Sorry one last thought. One can also say that a 1 ohm resistor for a Red Cree running off 3.7v could be considered a little dangerous for the led. 1.2 ohm would be the sounder, safer choice. Bottom line is, you may read several comments, statements or what ever, but the math is the only guaranteed accurate answer you'll get.

[erlomd]

Yes...what he said...statement edited:cool:

[Ben-cut-first]

What are you thinking in terms of keeping the heat sink in place? I thought about using the glass eye as a holder and getting a longer allen screw to replace the one above the glass eye as a blade retention. I'm looking for better ideas if you have any.

[erlomd]

What are you thinking in terms of keeping the heat sink in place? I thought about using the glass eye as a holder and getting a longer allen screw to replace the one above the glass eye as a blade retention. I'm looking for better ideas if you have any.

I'm just going to drill and tap a 4-40 thread on the grenade section below the glass eye...heres a similar idea taken from darth_ryo

http://goth-customsabers.ftl-network.com/log/wp-content/uploads/_d_improd_/IMG_4546_f_improf_300x407.jpg

http://goth-customsabers.ftl-network.com/log/wp-content/uploads/_d_improd_/IMG_4551_f_improf_300x313.jpg

http://goth-customsabers.ftl-network.com/log/wp-content/uploads/_d_improd_/IMG_4552_f_improf_150x183.jpg

http://goth-customsabers.ftl-network.com/log/wp-content/uploads/_d_improd_/IMG_4553_f_improf_167x180.jpg

http://goth-customsabers.ftl-network.com/log/wp-content/uploads/_d_improd_/IMG_4555_f_improf_318x331.jpg

[Ben-cut-first]

I have got my heat sink ready to roll, where are you all (anyone building a graflex) planning on putting an activation switch?

[erlomd]

I have got my heat sink ready to roll, where are you all (anyone building a graflex) planning on putting an activation switch?

Nice! my activation switch will be the red button on top. I haven't seen it, but I hear that the activation switch may need a spacer in between the button and the actual switch on the saber..I haven't tackled that yet, but it shouldn't be a problem.

...but, if your using the circuit board (instead of the bubbles) I hear theres a really cool touch activated switch but cant really remember for the life of me where to find it...and theres even someone who made one of the bubbles on the clamp a hidden switch (saw that on an anakin AOTC saber)...theres also a way to place a hidden switch on the ends of the clamp box...but I think the standard red switch will work just fine for me.

I had to go out of town for work and won't be back for a few weeks so no building for me...just fun researching and brainstorming ideas and planning for the saber.

but so far I have all the parts needed...except for the damn 28mm bass speaker...seems like TCSS never has it in stock so I went ahead and got a similar 8ohm 2w model train speaker in 27mm for the meantime. (however, I did see that the 27mm speaker has 3mm extra of cone travel so maybe theres more frequency response curves that will favor the 27mm over the 28mm but who knows since I really have no experience with either of them.

I also ordered another saber from korbanth (an obi wan kenobi from episode 4) that should be making its production run soon...so thats in the works for the future...most likely ill use a crystal focus on that one and a royal blue/royal blue/red FOC setup

13420

13421

also, can't wait until there is a good TFA sound font for the graflex...

I have a similar build thread on fxsabers.com look for me there for a more detailed build list... the thread is named similarly.

[Ben-cut-first]

I want to make the switch the red button at the top as well. I'm building TFA saber. You will need some sort of buffer, i was thinking like a bb or something. I have seen the touch activation switch from a link myself but also do not remember where. Are you using RB/RB/W in your graflex as well? I am using RB/B/W. Just wondering what resistor you got for the RB if you did.

I have always loved Kenobi's saber! I still have the toy from my childhood, along with both of anakin's and Darth Mauls of course haha. The next saber I would eventually like to get is Luke's from Return of the Jedi.

Also, i think Shameem made a custom TFA sound font, but I am sure you saw that. I assume you are wanting a real ripped version from the movie when it comes out, I can't blame you there.

Safe travels while you are away for work!

[NanoRex]

Parks does the touch-activated switch plates. Also you can find the little 3D printed tactile switch holders for the graflex clamp somewhere on the IRA forums I believe.

[erlomd]

I want to make the switch the red button at the top as well. I'm building TFA saber. You will need some sort of buffer, i was thinking like a bb or something. I have seen the touch activation switch from a link myself but also do not remember where. Are you using RB/RB/W in your graflex as well? I am using RB/B/W. Just wondering what resistor you got for the RB if you did.

I have always loved Kenobi's saber! I still have the toy from my childhood, along with both of anakin's and Darth Mauls of course haha. The next saber I would eventually like to get is Luke's from Return of the Jedi.

Also, i think Shameem made a custom TFA sound font, but I am sure you saw that. I assume you are wanting a real ripped version from the movie when it comes out, I can't blame you there.

Safe travels while you are away for work!

thanks bud!
look out for korbanths new run of sabers then...he has a luke ROTJ version coming up as well as other bad to the bone sabers...my bank account is going to love me

13422

13435

[Ben-cut-first]

https://youtu.be/FKjL7de2k6U

It only took 3 hours, but here is my progress! So happy it all worked on the first try!

[erlomd]

delete...

[erlomd]

https://youtu.be/FKjL7de2k6U

It only took 3 hours, but here is my progress! So happy it all worked on the first try!


Great Job!!! just like a pro!

[erlomd]

Finally fetched a 28mm 2w Bass Speaker which are finally back in stock! (...and justification to spend $8 on shipping for $0.66 resistors) :rolleyes:

I had already took the plunge on a 27mm Railmaster counterpart...but hey, look on the bright side...no I can make a comparison video with both speakers in a Graflex 2.0!

the 28mm speaker has an 11mm cone vs the 27mm which has 14mm...same wattage and ohms on both...the next trick is to find a damn good recording speaker for the youtube video

[brthegreat117]

I just want to say thank you for this. I took a half page of notes for my build next month. It will be my first. Doing ANH configuration. The wiring diagram is a bit confusing to me, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
I was really worried about the resistors and the holes I needed to drill and tap, but now thanks to this and a lot of help I received yesterday I am ready!

[erlomd]

Just got back home and look what came in the mail...EVERYTHING! ...don't you love it when it works out that way...

Just Kidding...I was away on work for a while and when I got back today all these shipments came in!

awesome stuff!!! Still need a saber however...just waiting on that to arrive apparently.

I'll post more later, but xxx! are these parts tiny or what?!?!?!

http://s18.postimg.org/qn5cmge3t/Full_Size_Render_4.jpg

[erlomd]

I just want to say thank you for this. I took a half page of notes for my build next month. It will be my first. Doing ANH configuration. The wiring diagram is a bit confusing to me, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
I was really worried about the resistors and the holes I needed to drill and tap, but now thanks to this and a lot of help I received yesterday I am ready!

awesome! you'll do great...post pics of the progress!

[erlomd]

so, I've wired up the recharge port for now...i still haven't received my saber, so chassis work is all about I can do right now...which is fine, because all the meticulous dremel work and soldering is very time consuming but a lot of fun!

heres what I got so far...

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/FullSizeRender%204_1.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_9.jpeg?1458224463115&1458224463956&1458224466296

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_9.jpeg?1458224463115&1458224463956&1458224466296

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_6.jpeg?1458224463115&1458224463957&1458224466296

[erlomd]

more updates...

been wiring...

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/FullSizeRender%204_2.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/FullSizeRender%206_2.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/FullSizeRender%208_1.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/FullSizeRender%2011.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/FullSizeRender%2013.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/FullSizeRender%209_1.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/FullSizeRender%2010.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/FullSizeRender_1.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/FullSizeRender-2-1.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/FullSizeRender-1_1.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/FullSizeRender-3_1.jpg

So far...So good!

[Streent]

erlomd, Dude! your work is awesome!

[erlomd]

erlomd, Dude! your work is awesome!

Thanks!

[erlomd]

some blade action...

13670

13671

[erlomd]

if anyone can clarify weather this will be safe or not...but I rewired my LED's to be this way...will this be fine?

This...

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/Screen%20Shot%202016-04-02%20at%2010.41.26%20PM.png

or This...

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/Screen%20Shot%202016-04-02%20at%2011.08.55%20PM.png

[CET]

What colors are you driving? If you're driving white, blue, or green you should be fine. If there's a red in there you're going to want something stronger than a 1ohm resistor.

[erlomd]

No red, its a B/B/W

Thanks for the reply!

[erlomd]

wired it up the other day! it was so great hearing that little boot up sound for the first time...
never really soldered anything that small before...it was a bit nerve wrecking but whatever...had to be done. Thanks again for all your help guys...I really couldn't have done it without all your knowledge!

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/306C89F2-29E7-4D9E-95A7-EBD55A993A8D.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/4F712D17-0C5F-4A85-A8DF-B82FED95CED6.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/IMG_6730.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/IMG_6731.jpg


http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh287/erlomd1/IMG_6734.jpg


https://youtu.be/42k938kLUrE




https://youtu.be/0yyLT44BR8E

now, off to making a speaker comparison video with the 28mm bass speaker (8ohm 2w) vs. the 27mm bass speaker I have thats 4ohm 2w and a little more speaker travel...:cool:

[CET]

4ohm 2w bass speaker? Can't wait to her it!

[erlomd]

Made a little modifications to the chassis today using 2 5mm LED's and 1/4" polycarbonate tubing that basically acts like a blade diffuser...lol...looks very cool!

138701387113872