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chrisharrisonakk@yahoo.co
01-23-2016, 04:43 PM
Hey, I'm building my first lightsaber and have hit the issue of the blade. Any ideas on what would be the best choice? I know I will be using a 1" OD thick-walled blade.

Jay-mo
01-25-2016, 11:42 AM
Welcome! I made my first two (still in "beta", working on carving and shaping the aluminum more) with 1"OD thick-walled blades. From what I have gathered, they aren't warranted unless its for full-contact all-out sparring.. I hear a 1" thin walled blade will take a beating just fine.

But I love mine, they're tough and a little heavy. If you spar with thick-walled blades, I'd advise you to be careful and probably use safety gear. Gloves, facial/eye protection are nice. A lot of people (*Cough* certain family members *cough*) cannot "Hold back" during a fight and instinctively go all out. Just remember- thick walled blades are tough as nails. I don't think I've ever heard/seen one break.

Main difference is just durability (Good luck breaking the thick walled) and illumination- a think walled blade will light up more. However, if your running your LED at max, diffuse using lots of cellophane film, you will be quite satisfied with what you have.

Whats do you plan to do? Full-contact sparring?

Also, are you asking how to diffuse or what blade length? Kinda not sure of your question and figured I'd cover that stuff..
- Jay-mo

TheBaconWizard
01-25-2016, 12:11 PM
If blade length figures into your question, then it basically falls into one of 2 categories: Either you intend to use it mostly 1 handed, or mostly 2 handed.

Google can be your friend with regard to historical longsword lengths (with a bastardsword aka hand-and-a-half) being mid-way. If 2 handed is your thing, a simple guide to get you started is imagine the pommel sticking into your armpit while standing errect, then work it out from there. There are variations around that of at least 10% though. I am 6ft and find 36-7 inches works ok. However, exclude the huge zweihanders and montantes etc with the extra "cross guard" up the blade: these were used more like a pole-arm and in very specific tactical situations.

Katana length is another thing to look at, if you feel that kenjitsu is more likely your main fighting influence.

Do NOT be influenced by historical blades that have lots of hand protection. They became shorter and lighter as a result and the style of fighting switched to guards from a hand-forward position, whereas lightsaber will require your hands being out of the way when at rest. Also bear in mind that some weapons were intended for use with shield, and again will not serve you well if that is not how you intend to fight (anyone seen a lightshield?) This includes rapiers: the swept hilt required a different technique than cup-hilt and a longer blade, perhaps with dagger in the off-hand.

The weight of the blade is important. Not only do you not want to cave someone's skull-in with it, but speed is everything (and reach is arguably a step towards speed) while power is utterly irrelevant. In theory you'd want the point of balance to be somewhere just marginally in front of your hilt, but that's more luck than judgement since we are not blacksmiths tapering a metal blade.

chrisharrisonakk@yahoo.co
01-25-2016, 04:23 PM
I am planning to use it for sparring. For the time being, I'd prefer to use a pre-made blade which means I must choose between Corbin and TCSS. I was hoping to get input on which of the pre-assembled blades is the best. As for the cellophane: how hard is it to install?

Thanks

chrisharrisonakk@yahoo.co
01-25-2016, 04:29 PM
I am very familiar with the sizing of blades, being a blade collector. I am actually designing two sabers. One will mostly be a bastardized kendo form with hints of traditional and competition staff and Lucas' shii cho. The other will be a combination of those and my experience in fencing.

My question had to do with premade blades. I am curious what the comparison is between the tcss and corbin battle blades