Calling All Cram-Fu Gurus

[Old Stormtrooper]

I'm playing around with some layout concepts. I'm using cheap materials that match the dimensions listed here, the store and the MHS Builder to build and play with real pieces like Tetris. What I would like to do is keep the overall length of my hilt as short as possible. It will have sound and I plan on a 7.4v power pack. Has anyone had any luck getting the battery to fit "under" the switch to "save" length? Any words of wisdom from the Masters on different configurations to maximize the cram?

MTFBWY

[darth_chasm]

What kind of switch? Easiest would be tactile switches with a switch ring. Another option is a short style AV switch with maybe a bezel.

[Old Stormtrooper]

I was possibly thinking AV Box 14 with 16mm short AVs. The recharge port and RICE port seem to be about 1 inch long which might make things difficult. I was also toying with 16mm short AVs with a sanded down bezel (store says the short won't thread with a bezel, but I think it might if I sand the flat area down to a thickness near a clocking washer or so). I would want an aux switch for sound effects and I'm playing around with (both 16mm AV short for now) mounting the main power at the "12 o'clock" position and the aux at the "10 o'clock" position immediately behind (towards the rear of the saber). Basically, I'm trying to explore different possibilities.

[NanoRex]

A short AV switch in an activation box will definitely fit over a 14500 cell in a standard MHS part. I don't think it will fit over an 18650 though.

[Silver Serpent]

If you really want to save space, you could use a soundboard that allows for a single-cell solution. Once you've dropped from a 7.4v pack down to a 3.7v pack, you'll find a lot of internal real estate has opened up.

[Old Stormtrooper]

I'm planning for a CF 7.5 and I could bridge the circuit for 3.7v operation. I'm also planning on using a Cree XML - RGBW, so I'm not sure how that would play out with a 3.7v solution.

[NanoRex]

Have you looked at using a side-by-side 14500 or 14650 battery pack? Those won't give you as much runtime, but will fit in 2 and 2.6 inch spaces respectively and can have the board mounted on top of them.

[Darth Vislir]

If you plan on color mixing
Are you taking in to account the color xtender board?
Look on pg 40 of the CF users manual

using the double tactile switch holder you could fit (if you are careful) the power extender board double taped on to the battery behind the switches.

[Old Stormtrooper]

Yup, I am planning on using the CEx. I've been looking at a 3D printed chassis for both boards and an 18650 battery. Or, I may end up building my own chassis. Using dowels for reference, I can't get 2 18650's to fit side by side. I haven't gotten a 14 size dowel to check that yet. Seems like a big trade-off in mAh for space.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yup, I am planning on using the CEx. I've been looking at a 3D printed chassis for both boards and an 18650 battery. Or, I may end up building my own chassis. Using dowels for reference, I can't get 2 18650's to fit side by side. I haven't gotten a 14 size dowel to check that yet. Seems like a big trade-off in mAh for space.

14xxx side by side packs fit fine within the standard ID of MHS hilts. ;)

[Old Stormtrooper]

14xxx side by side packs fit fine within the standard ID of MHS hilts. ;)

Definitely an option. If an 18650 2600mAh gets around an hours worth of use, how much can be expected out of a 14650 1050mAh pack?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Definitely an option. If an 18650 2600mAh gets around an hours worth of use, how much can be expected out of a 14650 1050mAh pack?

It depends™ . Mostly it depends on how many die you're running and how much Amperage you are feeding them. I saw something about a quad, so I'd say around 20-30 minutes max.

[NanoRex]

Do the math ;) The mAh value is directly proportional to the amount of runtime.

[Count Malik]

FWIW: I had a build once very similar to this- (CF, CEX, RGB LED, 7.4v 18500 pack, with full ports etc..) the switch boxes are handy but will still eat up alot more space than you might think- especially in the AV switch and ports area- i used a basic threaded tactile switch from the shop and had no issues with it, space wise. The AV switch would allow you to fit a 18650/18500 stick, but it is VERY tight and personally do not recommend it unless its your only option. (you have to put the battery, the CF and the CEX all in approximate distance of each other to give yourself enough clearance for your switches and ports.)

If you're thinking of doing a chassis of any kind you will not have space for it with the switch box set up.

So this is what I did: put the CF on the back end of the battery, let my speaker "float" in the pommel inside a speaker holder. The CEX was up on the top of the battery pack but had to be at a 40 degree angle or so, for the switches and stuff to barley fit over the top. Everything was inclosed in a piece of thin plastic tubing to protect from shortages and rattling... it fit nice and snug though and everything was pretty secure. This was for a 10.5" MHS hilt. It was also a big nightmare and wanted to rock myself to sleep in a corner! lol

I recommend either figuring out a better switch and port design, or use the x2 14500 cells the others were speaking of!

[Old Stormtrooper]

It depends™ . Mostly it depends on how many die you're running and how much Amperage you are feeding them. I saw something about a quad, so I'd say around 20-30 minutes max.

That's pretty much what I figured, just wanted a second opinion.

[Old Stormtrooper]

FWIW: I had a build once very similar to this- (CF, CEX, RGB LED, 7.4v 18500 pack, with full ports etc..) the switch boxes are handy but will still eat up alot more space than you might think- especially in the AV switch and ports area- i used a basic threaded tactile switch from the shop and had no issues with it, space wise. The AV switch would allow you to fit a 18650/18500 stick, but it is VERY tight and personally do not recommend it unless its your only option. (you have to put the battery, the CF and the CEX all in approximate distance of each other to give yourself enough clearance for your switches and ports.)

If you're thinking of doing a chassis of any kind you will not have space for it with the switch box set up.

So this is what I did: put the CF on the back end of the battery, let my speaker "float" in the pommel inside a speaker holder. The CEX was up on the top of the battery pack but had to be at a 40 degree angle or so, for the switches and stuff to barley fit over the top. Everything was inclosed in a piece of thin plastic tubing to protect from shortages and rattling... it fit nice and snug though and everything was pretty secure. This was for a 10.5" MHS hilt. It was also a big nightmare and wanted to rock myself to sleep in a corner! lol

I recommend either figuring out a better switch and port design, or use the x2 14500 cells the others were speaking of!

Was the tubing sized for the MHS hilt, or sized to the battery/boards? Do you think that shrink-wrap could work if I cut an opening for the micro-SD card?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Shrink wrapping everything is not a good idea. The board, etc do give off heat.

[Count Malik]

I wouldn't recommend heatshrinking everything for what FJK mentioned as well as any maintenance or upgrades you ever do on your saber.
I used this kind of tubing- http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/9-Electronics-shield-for-125-ID-tubes-P1009.aspx it fits perfect for MHS stuff although i got mine at a hardware store- the diameter is the same :)

[atomsk]

Just finished upgrading an older 11" hilt of mine. pretty small as far as 7.4v crystal focus builds go. I can confirm and used in this build: the 7.4v Li-ion 1600mAh 14500 side by side pack, with switch box 2 (16mm AV short, switch20, and recharge port) placed above the battery. I get half hour of runtime as im using a triCree GGW. with 7.4v I can run the two greens in series at 1000ma, with the white for FOC.

Runs on CF7.5 which is also mounted above the battery using the "Chassis Discs for PC 2.0 and 14500 side by side pack S5". But no CEX. Its a cram fit for sure. Definitely use 28awg+ wire and I'd advise caution using these chassis discs, they are fragile until its assembled (get a few extra). And I'd also definitely recommend clipping the leads shorter and heat shrinking the two switches and recharge port after theyre wired. That saved me enough space to fit a small length of dbl stick foam tape to further insulate the switches from the battery pack below them. Works fantastic, and its loud as hell. I've never tried the single cell hack on a crystal focus, Im too worried about the 30% volume loss @ 3.7v. But maybe its not as dramatic as I imagine.

[Das Ding]

I built a small saber a week ago, CF 7.5 with triCree, CEX and a 18500 2000mAh 7.4v pack i made in a MHS 7" hilt + pommel and emitter. The battery is exactly as long as the two boards + room for the sd-card and all fits perfectly in the MHS chassi between the speaker holder(which extends into the hilt) and a guarded switch in the standard position. I wired the recharge port past the speaker holder into the pommel and made a hole in the MPS insert, when i unscrew the pommel the insert rotates. No R.I.C.E. in my saber, but the port could be added to the MPS insert.

[Old Stormtrooper]

Thanks for the great advise. I'm thinking about going with building a chassis using these: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Acrylic-Chassis-Disc-for-PC-20-and-14500-side-by-side-pack-S5-P774.aspx . I want to make battery change out easy, so I'll "bore" out the battery hole just a bit and use a quick disconnect. I'll also probably use several discs so I can mount the CF7.5 and the CEx (modifying as needed).