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View Full Version : NBv3 wiring check please!



War Machine
01-20-2016, 09:16 PM
Hey guys, I'm working hard on my first saber w/ a NBv3 soundboard. Just need an experienced forum member to check my initial wiring diagram for me. I'm new to this and I feel like I've got something wrong here... splicing wires is confusing the hell out of me

13103


also can't seem to find the forward voltage of the red LED's in the RRW Luxeon Tri-rebel. TCCS product page doesn't have it

(Edit: I'm planning on having the AV switch lit after pulling the kill key)

Jay-gon Jinn
01-20-2016, 10:36 PM
Found this info on the single red rebel in the store: Red 106lm @ 700mA 2.4v - Run at 700mA do not go over 700ma in your calculations for the resistor, much more than that and the rebel tend to burn out. You'll also want to run the two reds in parallel, each with their own resistor, rather than in series as you have it in the diagram. The forward voltage will be added together in a series set up, and the 3.7 volts from the battery will not be enough to light the led properly in that case. Everything else looks good, but don't try nd solder three wires to the ground pad on the board....the two ground terminals on the switch can share a sinlge lead back to either the board or to the ground on the recharge port for a cleaner wiring job.

War Machine
01-21-2016, 05:20 AM
doesnt my diagram show the Red LED's wired in parallel? Or am I misunderstanding Madcows video?

Also, where would I add the second resistor ?

Silver Serpent
01-21-2016, 05:58 AM
That Tri-star is wired parallel in your diagram.

Rather than having two wires crossing each other over the top of the star, it would be better to have a Y-splice on your (+) and (-) wires leading to the LEDs. You can put the appropriate resistors on each of the (+) wires leading to the two LED dice.

darth_chasm
01-21-2016, 06:08 AM
They are in parallel; however, the issue of not having a dedicated resistor for each die remains in this type of set up. Madcow may do this, but he is aware of the risks involved.

Basically, if the diodes vary in voltage, which they very well may, the one with the lower voltage will attempt to "steal" all the current, leading to shorter lifespan. When that one blows, the next one will. It's much better to buy two resistors for some pocket change rather than have to replace a $20+ led star.

To wire in two resistors simply make a Y junction between the board and the leds. Add the resistors to the branches of the Y.

NanoRex
01-21-2016, 08:09 AM
Also, you might as well add one extra wire and resistor to get the Flash on Clash working.

Jay-gon Jinn
01-21-2016, 09:43 AM
doesnt my diagram show the Red LED's wired in parallel? Or am I misunderstanding Madcows video?

Also, where would I add the second resistor ?
Yep, you did...my mistake, misread the pads on the star in your diagram.

War Machine
01-21-2016, 11:12 AM
Thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated! here's an updated wiring diagram with your suggestions and calculated resistor values:

R = (3.7v - 2.4v) / 0.7A = 1.86 ohm

P = (0.7A)^2 * (1.86 ohm)= 0.9 Watts

13106

Am I right in assuming the red LEDs on the tri-rebel have the same specs as the Single Red rebel stars?

If so is this resistor the one to use? : http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2ohm-1w-resistor-P946.aspx

EDIT: Sorry, the picture uploader made my diagram tiny for some reason.

Silver Serpent
01-21-2016, 11:21 AM
Yes, the single Reds are the same ones used on the Tri-Rebel. Your calculations look correct to me.

JWLaRue
01-21-2016, 05:09 PM
Wouldn't the FOC LED also require a resistor?

-tnx,
Jeff

Forgetful Jedi Knight
01-21-2016, 05:11 PM
Wouldn't the FOC LED also require a resistor?

-tnx,
Jeff

Yes it would.