Blade builders Econo board Question!

[Inf4mous]

Hey everyone i just started tearing apart my blade builders saber to salvage the sound board out of it and i noticed that when you power the saber on the led flashes like 3 times.. is there any way to disable that nonsense?

[FenixFire]

Unless you can access the chip and re-flash the programing I would say probably not. It is their attempted to simulate the ramping up of the blade.

[Inf4mous]

Unless you can access the chip and re-flash the programing I would say probably not. It is their attempted to simulate the ramping up of the blade.

thats depressing lol it looks so terrible, but this econo board is just temporary... i thought maybe there would be a simple fix for it.. thanks for the reply!

[clahey83]

one of the last schematics on this thread shows you how to run your LED off of the speaker's output. its for older sound boards but the basic operation is still the same
ive done it on several sabers and highly recommend it :)

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?10288-2010-Electronic-Lightsaber-w-DVD-Tutorial&highlight=hasbro+tutorial

[FenixFire]

Good catch, forgot about that...and it's how I am getting FoC for my son's saber.

[Inf4mous]

one of the last schematics on this thread shows you how to run your LED off of the speaker's output. its for older sound boards but the basic operation is still the same
ive done it on several sabers and highly recommend it :)

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?10288-2010-Electronic-Lightsaber-w-DVD-Tutorial&highlight=hasbro+tutorial

Thanks! i tried that diagram but my board wont power on.. im using a 4 pin momentary switch i think im wiring the switch wrong do you have a diagram for a momentary switch?

[FenixFire]

You might need a multimeter. Because two pins will be normally open, two will be normally closed...assuming it is not an illuminated switch. The brand I use most has square ends on the closed, round ends on the open. Board works when hooked to the normally open, or normally off side. Also check the wires, the factory ones are very weak...actually only have 8 thin strands in each. I had to completely rewire the boards...I used Ezra's saber so there were three boards and 10 separate wires.

[Inf4mous]

I actually just got the switch all wired up and working, but now im trying to figure out how to brighten the LEDS while driving them from the speaker like in the diagram

[FenixFire]

What battery and resisters? Mine are very bright, my son originally wanted a purple blade with Red FoC, while being able to flip a switch and have it back to blue...but with the red and blue both on it makes white with a hint of purple cast onto the walls of the shop if we turn off the lights. Though I do have the blue wired to the led negative and the red to the speaker. I see in the thread you listed someone did comment on the LEDs not being as bright. Are you using a single led die or a tri? If using multiple dies wire one to the led neg and the other to the speaker neg. You will have a dim/bright cycle at start stop, but it will be bright.

[Silver Serpent]

I've done the speaker-driven version before. It looks fine in a dark room, until you compare it to a direct-driven blade. In a well-lit room, it looks pretty sad. The problem is that the flickering effect is causing the LED to turn on and off completely many times per second. It's just not emitting nearly as much light as it could be.

This is the tradeoff for using the econo board. You can get cool flickering effects OR you can get a well-lit blade.