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RoninBJJ
01-06-2016, 08:59 PM
So this will be my first saber build... Before I go through my parts list with a few questions for you all, lets start with me and my experience. I have taken a basic electronics class (in high school maybe about 9 years ago :p) and have basic skills for soldering. I have fixed minor electronics (radar detector) so I feel pretty comfortable with my soldering ability. I lack a lot of knowledge about amps, voltage, resistors, and other basic electronic verbiage that I see discussed here on a regular basis. So with that being said lets lay-out the parts list:

Saber Hilt
- Graflex 2.0 Saber kit* (here) (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Graflex-20-Saber-Kit-P1134.aspx) I had another design I was planning on doing that would utilize MHS parts, but I could never seem to accumulate all the necessary parts. So when this "saber kit" came up I grabbed it! Because who doesn't love a classic.
- Graflex LED adapter? not quite sure if I am going to need and purchase one of these as of yet.

Hilt electronics
- Nano Biscotti v2
- Li-ion pack 18650 3.7v 3400mAh
- 2W 28mm premium Speaker
- 2x tactile switches, momentary
- LED blue - I will not be using the white for FoC.
- LED Lens Tri
- 7/8" Aluminum heat sink
- 2.1 power jack w/kill key
- 0.47 ohm .5w resistor x 2
Misc
- 36" blade 7/8"
- Chassis disc for NB and 18650 li-ion, recharge port
- speaker mount V4
- all thread for chassis as well as spacers; jeez 4-40 threaded rod is difficult to find...
- I am also trying to find some braided brass/steel flex tube but every where I have gone doesn't have anything small enough.

Graflex Saber kit is already on order and should be here sometime next week. I already have a NB; I will be ordering the other parts after I narrow down a for more details.
I hope you guys can help with some of my newbie questions (LED selection and resistor). Please feel free to critique anything if it looks funky or if I am missing something.

I will post pics and details of the Graflex 2.0 Saber Kit when it arrives!


Update 1/9/16 Package is in route and should be here Tuesday, I will be doing a review that night with pics.

Update 1/10/16
- I am also thinking about perhaps throwing a crystal chamber into the mix. :-P But I am unsure how much room will be left after current electronics are installed. Soooooo, I am just going to wait and get all my necessary parts together first and then perhaps I can start dreaming.

UPDATE!!! 1/12/16

I just received my package from UPS! I have taken the time to do a few rough measurements and take a few pictures. Sorry if the pics are a little to big...
Blade holder is not shown in any pics because I need a smaller allen wrench to remove some screws holding it in place. All In all I very happy with the overall quality of the hilt. It is not a flimsy piece of metal that feels like it would crush under your grip, there are a few scratches on the hilt but it doesn't bother me. The bottom part of the hilt screws directly into the bottom of the blade holder, so it is important to be careful and make sure you unlock the clamp before unscrewing the two piece or you will cause some nice scratches on the 7-hole side of the hilt. Also the bubble card falls out of the clamp easily, I'm not sure if this is a common thing but I am assuming I will need to fill the space with some sort of material. DO NOT BUY the Graflex chassis disc! The diameter is to big and it will not fit past the threads of the hilt. I am sure with a little dremel-fu I could get them to fit, but not without jeopardizing the structural integrity of the disc. My 7/8" heat sink and B/B/W Cree LED, will be shipping the end of the week. I hope to start the build sometime next week, been practicing my soldering on old calculator chips/boards for the past few days and I am feeling pretty confident.

I will continue to update periodically between now and then. I will start sketching my internal layout, and wiring schematics over the next few days. If anybody has any questions about the hilt and parts feel free to ask, I all try and answer as best I can!

Entire kit:
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/2d3b6adf-b999-4f46-9da2-94dba7b64ae0_zpspptx05y1.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/2d3b6adf-b999-4f46-9da2-94dba7b64ae0_zpspptx05y1.jpg.html)

1st - TFA/ESB 2nd - ANH
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/696e3e9d-5952-4838-a438-8653dddfa922_zpspakoe6k6.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/696e3e9d-5952-4838-a438-8653dddfa922_zpspakoe6k6.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/5aba9c11-ff20-4a99-9005-bdc6075900f4_zpscgf6wklx.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/5aba9c11-ff20-4a99-9005-bdc6075900f4_zpscgf6wklx.jpg.html)

Graflex Body from different angle:
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/e9464da8-57c1-4713-af64-a7cba2a0c6c6_zpsmrl0cnol.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/e9464da8-57c1-4713-af64-a7cba2a0c6c6_zpsmrl0cnol.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/e5f4c3eb-4752-473a-aa15-b923a47c8459_zps10v7xbpd.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/e5f4c3eb-4752-473a-aa15-b923a47c8459_zps10v7xbpd.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/22e94b49-9728-4733-bdd1-b31e055d9b8a_zpswwjtta0k.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/22e94b49-9728-4733-bdd1-b31e055d9b8a_zpswwjtta0k.jpg.html)
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/c32fcb30-55cb-4806-9dbd-9b8c7eafed8f_zpsxsjhxhyo.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/c32fcb30-55cb-4806-9dbd-9b8c7eafed8f_zpsxsjhxhyo.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/ad0bda04-ba4c-4809-a01e-900128d5598a_zps6iswleq6.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/ad0bda04-ba4c-4809-a01e-900128d5598a_zps6iswleq6.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/f5f99118-a556-498b-ad66-d3dad55d7e8e_zpsjx2n8uut.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/f5f99118-a556-498b-ad66-d3dad55d7e8e_zpsjx2n8uut.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/0c84dbf2-56ba-4c86-a873-089404d90dad_zpslfuwcbaw.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/0c84dbf2-56ba-4c86-a873-089404d90dad_zpslfuwcbaw.jpg.html)




Thanks

UteOH
01-10-2016, 09:49 AM
After I cut my teeth on a simple stunt saber (parts on order), I will be attempting to assemble the hilt electronics for the TCSS Graflex 2.0 kit as well. I bet there are quite a few of us in the same boat, so I will be following this thread with interest.

I nabbed the same Graflex 2.0 kit from TCSS that you did. I love it! I assembled it yesterday. It is already a beautiful belt hanger. Does anyone know if it has the same internal dimensions as the Parks/Korbanth kits found elsewhere? The pictures I have found suggest that they are very similar/the same kits?

My slight differences from your set up: I will be using a Prizm card. I gather that they use the Petite Crouton chassis discs rather than the NB. Do you know if the TCSS discs fit the bottom section of the Graflex kit without further modification?

Have you figured out a solution for the 7/8" heat sink, or are you going to wait for the heat sink Tim is going to offer?

ColdVizjerei
01-10-2016, 10:07 AM
The pictures I have found suggest that they are very similar/the same kits?

It's the same Korbanth graflex 2.0 kit

UteOH
01-10-2016, 11:11 AM
It's the same Korbanth graflex 2.0 kit

Thanks, ColdVizjerei!

RoninBJJ
01-10-2016, 03:08 PM
After I cut my teeth on a simple stunt saber (parts on order), I will be attempting to assemble the hilt electronics for the TCSS Graflex 2.0 kit as well. I bet there are quite a few of us in the same boat, so I will be following this thread with interest.

I nabbed the same Graflex 2.0 kit from TCSS that you did. I love it! I assembled it yesterday. It is already a beautiful belt hanger. Does anyone know if it has the same internal dimensions as the Parks/Korbanth kits found elsewhere? The pictures I have found suggest that they are very similar/the same kits?

My slight differences from your set up: I will be using a Prizm card. I gather that they use the Petite Crouton chassis discs rather than the NB. Do you know if the TCSS discs fit the bottom section of the Graflex kit without further modification?

Have you figured out a solution for the 7/8" heat sink, or are you going to wait for the heat sink Tim is going to offer?

The info I have been able to gather so far is that the ID of the grip 1-5/16" (1.3125"). I ordered the Graflex specific NB 18650 chassis disc along with the kit, but the normal disk TCSS offers are used for 1.25" (and no smaller) so I am assuming they should be fine for the build. I also found a review by Shameem on the Korbanth Graflex 2.0 and it looks like he used the recharge port chassis disk which leads me to believe I am right in my assumption.

UteOH
01-10-2016, 03:55 PM
That's good info. I may start to collect the supplies I need for my chassis build soon.

I will be interested to see how you like the heat sink, do you have the optic yet?

RoninBJJ
01-12-2016, 04:57 PM
That's good info. I may start to collect the supplies I need for my chassis build soon.

I will be interested to see how you like the heat sink, do you have the optic yet?

I noticed you were still researching the blade options. I just ordered a thick-walled 34" clear blade from a seller who is running a discount on shipping:
http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=47099.msg617983#msg617983

I purchased the optic along with tri cree B/B/W from saberbay the other day. The blade will be one of the last things I order, but right now I am leaning towards the 32" from Vader's Vault. Also Update with pics above!

Sith4Life
01-12-2016, 08:48 PM
Hey I to have the same kit and want to do the same set up! Will you or can you post up you insides to this hilt also?
Thanks!

ForeverAJedi
01-12-2016, 08:57 PM
I got my Graflex kit today as well and I will begin to gather my parts soon, so I'll be watching this thread.

One thing I noticed is that anything I read on this kit, people are using the Nano Biscotti. Any particular reason why?

Also, it's interesting that your calculator bubbles fell out of your clamp, I have the opposite issue as I can barely get mine halfway installed.

Please post what you plan to do regarding the activation button!

RoninBJJ
01-12-2016, 09:10 PM
I got my Graflex kit today as well and I will begin to gather my parts soon, so I'll be watching this thread.

One thing I noticed is that anything I read on this kit, people are using the Nano Biscotti. Any particular reason why?

Also, it's interesting that your calculator bubbles fell out of your clamp, I have the opposite issue as I can barely get mine halfway installed.

Please post what you plan to do regarding the activation button!

Well I guess I am going to have to mod the clamp to get it to hold, perhaps some slivers of PVC to fill the space. As far as the activation buttoes goes, I was planning on having one for the red button and one inside the clamp. Honestly I didn't want to drop $100+ on a board that is to advance for what I am trying to accomplish; NB fits my wants and needs for this build. Perhaps a CFv8 will be used for my second build :rolleyes:.

I will take more pictures of the inside when I can get my hands on some smaller allen wrenches. Which should be tomorrow. Stay tuned!

RoninBJJ
01-13-2016, 08:47 AM
Put this schemtaic this morning while i should of been working...;)

I don't think I did the recharge port correctly, I am going to re-watch TCSS youtube tutorial on how to do this. Please, please, please give me some feed back!

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/9dfd9d45-b8c8-46e9-aefe-350623641be3_zps52vmmay7.png~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/9dfd9d45-b8c8-46e9-aefe-350623641be3_zps52vmmay7.png.html)

Silver Serpent
01-13-2016, 09:22 AM
You are correct. The recharge port is wired incorrectly.

The black wire from the battery (-) should NOT connect directly to the NB. The rest of the wiring is acceptable, though I'd personally move the switch (-) wires to the orange (-) wire.

One question: Why do you have two switches? The NB only requires one. If you just want to be able to turn the saber on and off from multiple places, that's fine. It's just not needed.

UteOH
01-13-2016, 11:06 AM
I am going more, for an ESB look, so I am using the printed circuit board. It also fits very loosely, and would fall out without adaptation. For the time being, a small piece of cardboard under the board stabilizes it nicely. I will cone up with a more permanent solution after I decide where to put the aux. switch. As I see it, the two choices are: (1) Under the clamp (bubble strip or circuit board), or (2) Under the second (glass eye) button. Does anyone have any suggestions about the aux. switch placement?
Since I am not an experienced builder, I elected to use a 3D printed chassis.

Sith4Life
01-13-2016, 11:57 AM
What switch is that? Name?
thanks

NanoRex
01-13-2016, 12:03 PM
What switch is that? Name?
thanks

It's a tactile switch. Switch 17 in the store.

Sith4Life
01-13-2016, 12:04 PM
is that what goes under the red graflex? seems big? couldnt you use the?
SPST Momentary tactile switch?

UteOH
01-13-2016, 06:03 PM
is that what goes under the red graflex? seems big? couldnt you use the?
SPST Momentary tactile switch?

Unlike Ronin, I am installing a Prizm sound card, hence the need for an auxiliary switch.

The kit comes with two (idenitcal)momentary mini switches and with red buttons that can be glued to the shaft of the switches. These fits well in the red button collar, which I plan to use for the main switch.

The questions is where to put the second mini switch, or use a different switch all together as the auxilliary switch.

Sith4Life
01-13-2016, 06:27 PM
Unlike Ronin, I am installing a Prizm sound card, hence the need for an auxiliary switch.

The kit comes with two (idenitcal)momentary mini switches and with red buttons that can be glued to the shaft of the switches. These fits well in the red button collar, which I plan to use for the main switch.

The questions is where to put the second mini switch, or use a different switch all together as the auxilliary switch.

I see, I will be doing the same set up Ronin so all I need is the the single for the main and only button in the graflex it's strictly an on and off switch, the nano also has a deep sleep mode so no need for an auxiliary port/hole the auxiliary port goes inside you open the hilt charge then close.

I'm new to this my first build also I got my graflex of the RPF the same 2.0 as found on TCSS so this switch is the only one to use for the red button in the graflex? The glue thing scares me will it hold up? Has this been done?

Sith4Life
01-13-2016, 06:32 PM
Unlike Ronin, I am installing a Prizm sound card, hence the need for an auxiliary switch.

The kit comes with two (idenitcal)momentary mini switches and with red buttons that can be glued to the shaft of the switches. These fits well in the red button collar, which I plan to use for the main switch.

The questions is where to put the second mini switch, or use a different switch all together as the auxilliary switch.

I see, I will be doing the same set up Ronin so all I need is the the single for the main and only button in the graflex it's strictly an on and off switch, the nano also has a deep sleep mode so no need for an auxiliary port/hole the auxiliary port goes inside you open the hilt charge then close.

I'm new to this my first build also I got my graflex of the RPF the same 2.0 as found on TCSS so this switch is the only one to use for the red button in the graflex? The glue thing scares me will it hold up? Has this been done?

UteOH
01-13-2016, 07:59 PM
This is my first build, too.

I have been studying the instructions I found for the Korbanth build. Same kit, apparently.

Some suggest gluing in a small piece of brass tubing in the red anodized button so that it sis higher. They it's glued in place. I think with careful use of epoxy, we can get a strong bond.

RoninBJJ
01-13-2016, 09:36 PM
You are correct. The recharge port is wired incorrectly.

The black wire from the battery (-) should NOT connect directly to the NB. The rest of the wiring is acceptable, though I'd personally move the switch (-) wires to the orange (-) wire.

One question: Why do you have two switches? The NB only requires one. If you just want to be able to turn the saber on and off from multiple places, that's fine. It's just not needed.

So I watched TCSS recharge port turtorail on youtube and I think I have it correct now. I removed the second switch, I was going to try and have two power switches. One in the clamp the other for the red button, but I don't have time nor the patience for those kinds of shenanigans.
1) Wired the (-) battery wire to the (-) tip(blue) of the RP.
2) Wired (+) battery to the (+) tip(purple) of the RP. The purple wire will then be twisted together with the (+) of the LED and solder to (+) pad of the board.
3) Orange wire (-) twist together with (-) of switch and connect to board (-) pad for battery.
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/a2a7ad4a-7c23-497f-abec-497f36e8f198_zpsuergo7qv.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/a2a7ad4a-7c23-497f-abec-497f36e8f198_zpsuergo7qv.jpg.html)


I am going more, for an ESB look, so I am using the printed circuit board. It also fits very loosely, and would fall out without adaptation. For the time being, a small piece of cardboard under the board stabilizes it nicely. I will cone up with a more permanent solution after I decide where to put the aux. switch. As I see it, the two choices are: (1) Under the clamp (bubble strip or circuit board), or (2) Under the second (glass eye) button. Does anyone have any suggestions about the aux. switch placement?
Since I am not an experienced builder, I elected to use a 3D printed chassis.

I removed the clamp from the hilt and found that I could squeeze it together and tighten the the screw and the circuit board fit nicely... But it was to tight to fit back over the hilt. Sooooo back to square one.
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/fcf2ccf5-c78e-4f62-a2dc-6dcf884ca2c3_zpsrcgauy65.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/fcf2ccf5-c78e-4f62-a2dc-6dcf884ca2c3_zpsrcgauy65.jpg.html)


I see, I will be doing the same set up Ronin so all I need is the the single for the main and only button in the graflex it's strictly an on and off switch, the nano also has a deep sleep mode so no need for an auxiliary port/hole the auxiliary port goes inside you open the hilt charge then close.

I'm new to this my first build also I got my graflex of the RPF the same 2.0 as found on TCSS so this switch is the only one to use for the red button in the graflex? The glue thing scares me will it hold up? Has this been done?

I am going to wire the red button as my one and only switch. That being said I am going to have to modify the switch because the tactile button is to short and the red button will not reach it. I am going to probably grab some epoxy and place it within the inside of the red button in order for it to make proper contact with the tactile switch.

Here are a few more pics after I was able to remove the blade holder from the top section the the hilt:

So there are 3 screws that hold the blade holder in place all located at the top of the hilt. All three screws are pictured here.
1st - is at the front of the saber just above where the glass eye (retention screw) goes.
2nd - is on the side of the saber with a little rectangular plate
3rd - located, and connected to, the red button on the opposite side of the glass eye. It is not a screw that can be removed with an allen of screw driver; I used pliers.
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/240fd1bb-8e05-43f7-bd37-efbfe7c95ff1_zps2iypijd1.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/240fd1bb-8e05-43f7-bd37-efbfe7c95ff1_zps2iypijd1.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/aaeb14fb-c195-413c-a538-55c24c16747a_zpsrzearhe8.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/aaeb14fb-c195-413c-a538-55c24c16747a_zpsrzearhe8.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/b02eba16-9fa6-4a5f-8d21-1f89d2f0b199_zpsqbucpsgb.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/b02eba16-9fa6-4a5f-8d21-1f89d2f0b199_zpsqbucpsgb.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/b1fea4b7-9800-48cf-aae9-e0436af506c0_zpstytss1ua.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/b1fea4b7-9800-48cf-aae9-e0436af506c0_zpstytss1ua.jpg.html)

I also measured the the length of the lower part of the hilt so I can start planning my internal layout. It is roughly about 4.75" from the pommel to the blade holder so should be plenty of room for what I have planned.

Sith4Life
01-14-2016, 09:56 AM
nice Ronin these are helpful. my biggest fear is the red button set up hope it works. also your heat sink? where did you find it i was to TCSS was creating one to hold the LED's Its Not manufactured any where? WARNING!!!!! i was watching the how to videos and it said to build your chassis first to acomadate the size of the hilt if that makes any sense?

Sith4Life
01-14-2016, 10:02 AM
Thanks for the heads up on the chassis discs which ones do we use that will hold the nano and battery pack? and the charge port?

Replicant
01-14-2016, 10:10 AM
To clarify, the chassis parts sold here DO NOT fit this kit?

Sith4Life
01-14-2016, 10:38 AM
none? i was just told it was the 1.25 disks work

RoninBJJ
01-14-2016, 11:12 AM
nice Ronin these are helpful. my biggest fear is the red button set up hope it works. also your heat sink? where did you find it i was to TCSS was creating one to hold the LED's Its Not manufactured any where? WARNING!!!!! i was watching the how to videos and it said to build your chassis first to acomadate the size of the hilt if that makes any sense?

If you go back to my original post I have a link to Saberbay on etsy, this is where I bought both my led and 7/8" heat sink from. I think they mean assemble your chassis and make sure it fits within the pieces you have... Perhaps modification have to be done and pieces subtracted.


Thanks for the heads up on the chassis discs which ones do we use that will hold the nano and battery pack? and the charge port?

I would assume the normal chassis disc, not the graflex specific, would work. I have not tried though, all I know is the graflex specific did not fit past the threads of the lower section of the hilt. There is a pic of it on the original post.


To clarify, the chassis parts sold here DO NOT fit this kit?

The graflex chassis disc NB-18650 did not fit mine.


none? i was just told it was the 1.25 disks work

I believe the normal 1.25 do work, the graflex specific didn't with mine.


I may put together a small video review and link it to my thread might be a little easier to comprehended then still pics.

Sith4Life
01-14-2016, 12:28 PM
sweet! :D

Replicant
01-14-2016, 01:07 PM
awesome. I'm thinking of trying this build with a simple crystal chassis design. I cant wait to see how this works out for you.

Replicant
01-14-2016, 01:10 PM
Hey I to have the same kit and want to do the same set up! Will you or can you post up you insides to this hilt also?
Thanks!

^^^
This

Sith4Life
01-14-2016, 02:08 PM
So Did the heat sink and LEDs from saberbay fit comfy??? I will order mine if they did.

RoninBJJ
01-14-2016, 05:09 PM
awesome. I'm thinking of trying this build with a simple crystal chassis design. I cant wait to see how this works out for you.

I scrapped my crystal chamber idea, at least for the time being. The blade holder takes up a large amount of room and only leaves enough room for about a 4.5"~ for a basic chassis. You have a couple of options at this point:
1) You can order 3D printed chassis but it requires pretty heavy modifications. Not something I am willing to do...
2) You can wait for a different blade holder to possible be made, perhaps the one by TCSS, and hope that it takes up less room than the current blade holder.


So Did the heat sink and LEDs from saberbay fit comfy??? I will order mine if they did.

I have not received it as of yet. I order both the heat sink and B/B/W Tri Cree LED w/ optics from him and he said it would ship tomorrow (Friday). I set the order back by adding the LED to my order last minute. Justin took the time to answer all my question and in timely manner, super helpful.

So I will really try and upload a video tonight with views of the internals and other small little details and obstacles.

Sith4Life
01-14-2016, 05:18 PM
I guess he was familiar w this new graflex 2?I hope things don't rattle around inside bing smaller then a real graflex

RoninBJJ
01-14-2016, 05:47 PM
I guess he was familiar w this new graflex 2?I hope things don't rattle around inside bing smaller then a real graflex

It isn't exactly new, if you follow the first link you will see the original concept thread for this hilt. The first run was delivered in October 2015 I believe. The second link is the is how I found out about the 7/8 heat sink sold by Saberbay. Seems like everyone has been happy with their purchase.

http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=46738.0

http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=48378.0

UteOH
01-14-2016, 07:14 PM
I scrapped my crystal chamber idea, at least for the time being. The blade holder takes up a large amount of room and only leaves enough room for about a 4.5"~ for a basic chassis. You have a couple of options at this point:
1) You can order this 3D printed Graflex2.0 Crystal Chassis (http://www.imperialroyalarms.com/thread/5979/g3d-chassis-thread-graflex-saber?page=1&scrollTo=72458) But it requires pretty heavy modifications. Not something I am willing to do...
2) You can wait for a different blade holder to possible be made, perhaps the one by TCSS, and hope that it takes up less room than the current blade holder.



I have not received it as of yet. I order both the heat sink and B/B/W Tri Cree LED w/ optics from him and he said it would ship tomorrow (Friday). I set the order back by adding the LED to my order last minute. Justin of Saberbay took the time to answer all my question and in timely manner, super helpful.

So I will really try and upload a video tonight with views of the internals and other small little details and obstacles.

So, I received my heat sink, LED, and optic from Justin today. The heat sink fits nicely in the blade holder (see pic). It is 17mm tall. Looks like it will work great.

I am also including my simple work around for the loose circuit board. Open the clamp release lever. Place the circuit board in with cardboard shims (2 thin packaging cardboard pieces did it for me). Close the release clamp. Nice and tight! Took me less than a minute.

I ordered the "Knight" version of the 3D printed chassis you mentioned. It comes in two sections: the second section is specific for the sound card you choose and inserts in the first. Includes a crystal chamber if desired. Will let you know how it fits when it arrives.

I agree the red button needs modification to work with the micro switch. Since the latter fits into the main switch hole on the hilt so well (with the retaining nut), I plan to use it. I will reference my earlier comment: glue a short piece of rod into the recess of the anodized button. This will make the recess much shallower. The button will sit higher, easier to activate.1300213003

Sith4Life
01-15-2016, 03:39 AM
Nice thanks for the photos!

Sith4Life
01-15-2016, 06:57 AM
What micro switch are we using?

Sith4Life
01-15-2016, 01:59 PM
Also guys what's the length of this chassis any one know?

RoninBJJ
01-15-2016, 09:06 PM
So, I received my heat sink, LED, and optic from Justin today. The heat sink fits nicely in the blade holder (see pic). It is 17mm tall. Looks like it will work great.

I am also including my simple work around for the loose circuit board. Open the clamp release lever. Place the circuit board in with cardboard shims (2 thin packaging cardboard pieces did it for me). Close the release clamp. Nice and tight! Took me less than a minute.

I ordered the "Knight" version of the 3D printed chassis you mentioned. It comes in two sections: the second section is specific for the sound card you choose and inserts in the first. Includes a crystal chamber if desired. Will let you know how it fits when it arrives.

I agree the red button needs modification to work with the micro switch. Since the latter fits into the main switch hole on the hilt so well (with the retaining nut), I plan to use it. I will reference my earlier comment: glue a short piece of rod into the recess of the anodized button. This will make the recess much shallower. The button will sit higher, easier to activate.1300213003

My heat sink and LED arrived yesterday as well. I will most likely drill and tap my blade holder to hold the LED module in place just below the red activation button. I will also have to open a section of the ribbed portion of the blade holder via dremel in-order to allow for the switch wires to come through and connect to the red activation button. So I have my work cut out for me over the next few days... I am really not happy about cutting into the blade holder, but I don't see any other way to have a functional red button activation without doing so. If anyone has any suggestions I am all ears!

Sith4Life
01-16-2016, 05:12 AM
My heat sink and LED arrived yesterday as well. I will most likely drill and tap my blade holder to hold the LED module in place just below the red activation button. I will also have to open a section of the ribbed portion of the blade holder via dremel in-order to allow for the switch wires to come through and connect to the red activation button. So I have my work cut out for me over the next few days... I am really not happy about cutting into the blade holder, but I don't see any other way to have a functional red button activation without doing so. If anyone has any suggestions I am all ears!

Guys there's this guy shameem can't spell his last name properly sorry he's done this build a few times with the V.2 and hasn't cut it up I'm waiting on anwser I hope he can shed some lite.

UteOH
01-16-2016, 06:59 AM
Guys there's this guy shameem can't spell his last name properly sorry he's done this build a few times with the V.2 and hasn't cut it up I'm waiting on anwser I hope he can shed some lite.

According to the detailed instructions that are published by the guy who designed my chassis, opening a window in the blade holder is necessary. If you find a less destructive option, Sith4life, I would love to hear it!

Btw, the inner diameter of the hilt is different at the level of the internal blade holder and below. Which measurements do you need?

I have been seeing lots of variability on resistor values.

Ronin, you and I are using the same TriCree from Justin.
I tracked down the specs from Cree here: http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED-Components-and-Modules/XLamp/Data-and-Binning/XLampXPE2.pdf

All three of the XP E2 LED's have a forward current of 1000mA.

At that voltage, here are the forward voltages of the various colors:
Green: 3.7 V
Royal blue: 3.4 V
Red: 2.65 V

The Prizm sound board sends the entire voltage of the power supply to the main LED's via a common anode.
I am using a 18500 at 3.7 V
So the required resistors are:
Green: none.
Royal blue: R=3.7-3.4/1=0.3; P=0.3 * 1^2=0.3W, so 0.3 ohms @ 0.3 W (rounding up to 0.47 ohms @ 0.5 W available in the store).
Red: R=3.7-2.65/1=1.05/1=1.05ohms @ 1.05 ohms (rounding up to 1.2 ohms @ 3 W available in the store).

You guys agree with the calculations?

RoninBJJ
01-16-2016, 08:56 AM
Guys there's this guy shameem can't spell his last name properly sorry he's done this build a few times with the V.2 and hasn't cut it up I'm waiting on anwser I hope he can shed some lite.

Yeah I have watched his review multiple times. That blade plug is probably around 2-3 inches which means that LED module sits about where the blade holder chokes just before the ribbed section. So he must of drilled and tapped the holder. As far as opening a window for the switch wires to go I don't see any other way to have an active red button with out doing this mod. But as soon as you hear back from him please let us know.


According to the detailed instructions that are published by the guy who designed my chassis, opening a window in the blade holder is necessary. If you find a less destructive option, Sith4life, I would love to hear it!

Btw, the inner diameter of the hilt is different at the level of the internal blade holder and below. Which measurements do you need?

I have been seeing lots of variability on resistor values.

Ronin, you and I are using the same TriCree from Justin.
I tracked down the specs from Cree here: http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED-Components-and-Modules/XLamp/Data-and-Binning/XLampXPE2.pdf

All three of the XP E2 LED's have a forward current of 1000mA.

At that voltage, here are the forward voltages of the various colors:
Green: 3.7 V
Royal blue: 3.4 V
Red: 2.65 V

The Prizm sound board sends the entire voltage of the power supply to the main LED's via a common anode.
I am using a 18500 at 3.7 V
So the required resistors are:
Green: none.
Royal blue: R=3.7-3.4/1=0.3; P=0.3 * 1^2=0.3W, so 0.3 ohms @ 0.3 W (rounding up to 0.47 ohms @ 0.5 W available in the store).
Red: R=3.7-2.65/1=1.05/1=1.05ohms @ 1.05 ohms (rounding up to 1.2 ohms @ 3 W available in the store).

You guys agree with the calculations?

I would double check with Justin on the forward voltage.

This is the info taken directly from his website:
llumination Color: Red
Wavelength: 630 nm
Luminous Intensity: -
Luminous Flux/Radiant Flux: 80.6 lm
If - Forward Current: 350 mA
Vf - Forward Voltage: 2.1 V
Mounting Style: SMD/SMT
Power Rating: 3.5 W

info for the GREENS
Product Category: High Power LEDs - Single Color
RoHS: RoHS Compliant Details
Illumination Color: Green
Wavelength: 535 nm
Luminous Flux/Radiant Flux: 130 lm
If - Forward Current: 350 mA
Vf - Forward Voltage: 3.7 V
Mounting Style: SMD/SMT
Power Rating: 3 W

Info for the Royal Blue

Illumination Color: Royal Blue
Wavelength: 465 nm
Luminous Flux/Radiant Flux: 625 mW
If - Forward Current: 350 mA
Vf - Forward Voltage: 3.1 V
Mounting Style: SMD/SMT
Power Rating: 3 W

Here is the info from the link you provided:
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/091042c0-badb-4329-96c8-1d59eada13d0_zpsi4gamxbo.png~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/091042c0-badb-4329-96c8-1d59eada13d0_zpsi4gamxbo.png.html)

So there are two different Red and Blue LEDs that have different forward voltage characteristics. One rated at 350mA and the other for 1000mA. Looking at the info Justin provided on his website the forward voltage is 350mA not 1000mA. Which I did not account for either... I messaged him right now to see what the deal is; If I am correct in my assumption than my resistor value would be 1.7ohm 1.3w, after rounding 2ohm 1w resistor, instead of my original resistor of 0.47ohm 0.5w.

UPDATE: Justin got back to me and he said it is fine to be run at 1amp (1000mA) so no change for me!

UteOH
01-16-2016, 09:59 AM
I will go with Justin's (more conservative) numbers as well. It can't hurt dropping the forward voltage a bit, running fewer amps through the LED's. Cooler temps, longer life, perhaps. I can live with slightly less brightness.

RoninBJJ
01-19-2016, 05:14 AM
Still waiting on the last few parts to arrive. I received a message from Shameem about the graflex he built, and yes he did have to open a window/hole in the blade holder in order to wire the red button. So... Looks like I got some dremel work I need to start working on. Once I receive the rest of my part I will start posting pics, or perhaps a video of the build while I do it.

Sith4Life
01-19-2016, 10:02 AM
Still waiting on the last few parts to arrive. I received a message from Shameem about the graflex he built, and yes he did have to open a window/hole in the blade holder in order to wire the red button. So... Looks like I got some dremel work I need to start working on. Once I receive the rest of my part I will start posting pics, or perhaps a video of the build while I do it.

Makes sense, I dont have my kit yet this week. So is the button an actual button you can wire?

RoninBJJ
01-19-2016, 10:19 AM
Makes sense, I dont have my kit yet this week. So is the button an actual button you can wire?

There is a small tactile switch that is placed under the red button.

greyfox
01-21-2016, 09:18 AM
I have a question about the Graflex 2.0? How do I install the red buttons in the button holes? They just keep falling out...

Sith4Life
01-21-2016, 11:04 AM
Guys the 2.0 kit that TCSS offers is this the same one tha Korbanth from the RPF is selling???
Looks it

Sith4Life
01-21-2016, 11:07 AM
I have a question about the Graflex 2.0? How do I install the red buttons in the button holes? They just keep falling out...

are you adding electronics???

maggard08@gmail.com
01-21-2016, 12:58 PM
Hey, what's the inside diameter of the pommel end? I know it won't hold the chassis disc but will it hold a speaker/battery holder?

greyfox
01-21-2016, 01:07 PM
are you adding electronics???

No, without electronics...but there still has to be a way to make the buttons stick in the holes? or am I wrong?

Crasicus
01-21-2016, 02:00 PM
are you adding electronics???

Could you possibly explain with electronics as well? How does the red button connect to the switch? It seems like the black bit of the switch needs to be longer, but I'm sure I'm overlooking something.

RoninBJJ
01-21-2016, 02:29 PM
I have a question about the Graflex 2.0? How do I install the red buttons in the button holes? They just keep falling out...

Glue, I am going to have to glue (carefully) the red button to the actual activation switch.


Guys the 2.0 kit that TCSS offers is this the same one tha Korbanth from the RPF is selling???
Looks it

Yes, it is the same.


Hey, what's the inside diameter of the pommel end? I know it won't hold the chassis disc but will it hold a speaker/battery holder?

I believe it is the same diameter as the MHS parts but I am not enitrely sure. I will start building the chassis tomorrow, so I will have a much better idea then.


No, without electronics...but there still has to be a way to make the buttons stick in the holes? or am I wrong?

Other than glue or epoxy, no. At least I don't see any other way at the moment.


Could you possibly explain with electronics as well? How does the red button connect to the switch? It seems like the black bit of the switch needs to be longer, but I'm sure I'm overlooking something.

It does need to be longer, I am going to have to add a piece to the the red button so it actually makes contact with the switch. All my parts will be here tomorrow, I am going to video document the build so stay tuned. My goal is to finish it by Sunday.

Crasicus
01-21-2016, 02:39 PM
It does need to be longer, I am going to have to add a piece to the the red button so it actually makes contact with the switch. All my parts will be here tomorrow, I am going to video document the build so stay tuned. My goal is to finish it by Sunday.

Thanks, that'd be really helpful :)

RoninBJJ
01-23-2016, 07:39 AM
Update:

So I have received all of my parts and have started on my build. Here are a few pics of some modifications and what not:

8-32 drill and tap for LED module
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/98e60f83-bdbc-4713-993b-553704a4bb95_zpsyulabwmc.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/98e60f83-bdbc-4713-993b-553704a4bb95_zpsyulabwmc.jpg.html)

Hole made from switch wires (red button)
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/8c0fd8bc-e62f-4a37-aa7a-ab2899145efd_zpsnqjni9pc.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/8c0fd8bc-e62f-4a37-aa7a-ab2899145efd_zpsnqjni9pc.jpg.html)

Sanded down ribbed section to allow a space for wires to lay safely
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/fd32f4af-4bc6-4726-bae9-35df25ada2ba_zpswxktkamz.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/fd32f4af-4bc6-4726-bae9-35df25ada2ba_zpswxktkamz.jpg.html)

Couple pieces I picked up from Lowes to make a custom blade plug, I am still searching for some small pieces of hardware to put inside.
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/c5e74c6b-c3ad-4ff4-b937-ca5ccc683027_zpsvrmsmkcs.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/c5e74c6b-c3ad-4ff4-b937-ca5ccc683027_zpsvrmsmkcs.jpg.html)

LED and recharge port wired and ready to go
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/e0782c5c-ac08-49ed-bb52-fb4fe6cfa3e1_zpslm4qfsej.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/e0782c5c-ac08-49ed-bb52-fb4fe6cfa3e1_zpslm4qfsej.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/8c57dd18-f4cf-4d96-ab84-bb983d4757b3_zpszla7pt5u.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/8c57dd18-f4cf-4d96-ab84-bb983d4757b3_zpszla7pt5u.jpg.html)

Chassis:
- Chassis disc are the standard 1.25 MHS compatible disc
- Spacers are nylon 1/2" and 1/4", TCSS was sold out of both 1/2" and 3/4" spacers
- had to make modifications to the speaker holder so the battery would sit a little further down which would allow for a more compact chassis
- Do to the length of the chassis the blade holder will not screw all the way into the lower part of the hilt but it doesn't ffect anything
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/71e5bde9-51a3-4c54-8c29-adbe8ca6c98a_zpssa7enwqu.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/71e5bde9-51a3-4c54-8c29-adbe8ca6c98a_zpssa7enwqu.jpg.html)
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/5be90a38-7d6d-4486-8e17-2c6427fd4b91_zpsbup7ld54.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/5be90a38-7d6d-4486-8e17-2c6427fd4b91_zpsbup7ld54.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/d450ad3b-5c9b-4a8e-ae4a-65aedc626f1e_zpszc7apwvv.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/d450ad3b-5c9b-4a8e-ae4a-65aedc626f1e_zpszc7apwvv.jpg.html)

I am going to continue to work on it today after work, so more updates will come later

Sith4Life
01-23-2016, 08:10 AM
Good luck!

UteOH
01-23-2016, 01:18 PM
Looking great! Love watching your progress.

My printed chassis came in the mail today. Yesterday I got notification from TCSS that my other parts have been shipped. I should have just about all I need to start soon.

Since I have not built before, I have to do some practice soldering. I am actually going to do a stunt saber first for a little more practice. Then I will start this Graflex project.

Since I am using a different sound card (Prizm) with two switches and a different different chassis solution, I am considering starting a different thread so that anyone following won't get confused. Do you agree, RoninBJJ?

RoninBJJ
01-23-2016, 08:47 PM
Looking great! Love watching your progress.

My printed chassis came in the mail today. Yesterday I got notification from TCSS that my other parts have been shipped. I should have just about all I need to start soon.

Since I have not built before, I have to do some practice soldering. I am actually going to do a stunt saber first for a little more practice. Then I will start this Graflex project.

Since I am using a different sound card (Prizm) with two switches and a different different chassis solution, I am considering starting a different thread so that anyone following won't get confused. Do you agree, RoninBJJ?

I would start a separate one for sure.

OK, I spent 7 hours today working on my Graflex... I HAVE FINISHED!!!
I have included a few more pics and a short video overview. I really didn't feel like editing 12+ hours of footage of my entire build time.

So here are a few pics during my build today:

Modification to chassis disc, this was to allow the speaker wire to reach the sound board.
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/7cde9ed1-4fc7-4ae1-9900-a3e4fa3610a3_zpsn6ejimpj.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/7cde9ed1-4fc7-4ae1-9900-a3e4fa3610a3_zpsn6ejimpj.jpg.html)

Chassis w/ NBv2 installed and wired, I installed the recharge port at the top of the chassis so most of the wires would be wired from the top down.
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/4bb3e9d5-0ee3-401d-a265-66c178bd5a39_zps9badjlhl.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/4bb3e9d5-0ee3-401d-a265-66c178bd5a39_zps9badjlhl.jpg.html)
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/35a48cf1-aff2-432c-8d32-13767bbaf43f_zpsgtpqlvsu.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/35a48cf1-aff2-432c-8d32-13767bbaf43f_zpsgtpqlvsu.jpg.html)

Switch wires:
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/3a620c07-7c6d-4e62-9f43-ea7fd4b3f4df_zpsmznvbrkz.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/3a620c07-7c6d-4e62-9f43-ea7fd4b3f4df_zpsmznvbrkz.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/1421e0d8-17d2-4084-a61a-1f0359aa1fcf_zpslqvxs4hv.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/1421e0d8-17d2-4084-a61a-1f0359aa1fcf_zpslqvxs4hv.jpg.html)

Important little bit here: make sure you apply heat shrink around the switch. when the metal from the hilt touches the to solder contacts it will activate the saber.
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/842e8807-abd0-4db8-bb84-4122da8f294d_zpsgronol8i.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/842e8807-abd0-4db8-bb84-4122da8f294d_zpsgronol8i.jpg.html)

Few more pics:
Finally found the parts I was looking for to complete my blade plug
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/e87a5d9a-71a6-41a2-9375-a24049ab17b8_zpsgpmdir7r.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/e87a5d9a-71a6-41a2-9375-a24049ab17b8_zpsgpmdir7r.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/950fc58a-73d8-4615-a9c8-3528eaa2c2ad_zps9ib86xlq.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/950fc58a-73d8-4615-a9c8-3528eaa2c2ad_zps9ib86xlq.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/6313d1db-58e2-4836-a285-f9256cf26a16_zpspmncmnpx.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/6313d1db-58e2-4836-a285-f9256cf26a16_zpspmncmnpx.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/c09b515e-d661-4175-a218-5f8988cd8642_zps9sxydzgd.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/c09b515e-d661-4175-a218-5f8988cd8642_zps9sxydzgd.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/3d55b8a4-c54c-44ce-9785-c16fbdf1a502_zpssvzodf7b.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/3d55b8a4-c54c-44ce-9785-c16fbdf1a502_zpssvzodf7b.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/92676eb4-f091-4bd7-9dd5-cac5c3d13fc1_zpscsinktxu.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/92676eb4-f091-4bd7-9dd5-cac5c3d13fc1_zpscsinktxu.jpg.html)

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/1f0e565a-3e07-44d6-b40c-db021ec2f313_zpse1efgegm.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/1f0e565a-3e07-44d6-b40c-db021ec2f313_zpse1efgegm.jpg.html)

Quick video overview: Had to switch to photobucket movie, youtube said I violated something but wouldn't say what...:neutral:
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/th_E3F44F75-1452-4EE4-8499-99A81039FCDA_zpsxfqldbjt.mp4 (http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/E3F44F75-1452-4EE4-8499-99A81039FCDA_zpsxfqldbjt.mp4)


If you have any questions please feel free to ask!

Squints
01-23-2016, 09:27 PM
Great job and congrats on your first build

Sith4Life
01-24-2016, 08:27 AM
Wow just like that nice job!
Bummer can't see video

RoninBJJ
01-24-2016, 09:22 AM
Great job and congrats on your first build

Thank you, now to start planning the second!


Wow just like that nice job!
Bummer can't see video

Uploaded another video using photobucket. YouTube said it was flagged and deemed in violation of something or other.

UteOH
01-24-2016, 05:28 PM
Ronin,

Great job! Loved your video. I will be sure to protect the contacts on the switch.

What did you use to build up the height of the switch button and what did you use to glue the red button to the switch shaft?

I liked your blade plug, too. Nice.

darth_chasm
01-24-2016, 05:44 PM
Few more pics:
Finally found the parts I was looking for to complete my blade plug
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/e87a5d9a-71a6-41a2-9375-a24049ab17b8_zpsgpmdir7r.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/e87a5d9a-71a6-41a2-9375-a24049ab17b8_zpsgpmdir7r.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/950fc58a-73d8-4615-a9c8-3528eaa2c2ad_zps9ib86xlq.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/950fc58a-73d8-4615-a9c8-3528eaa2c2ad_zps9ib86xlq.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/6313d1db-58e2-4836-a285-f9256cf26a16_zpspmncmnpx.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/6313d1db-58e2-4836-a285-f9256cf26a16_zpspmncmnpx.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/c09b515e-d661-4175-a218-5f8988cd8642_zps9sxydzgd.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/c09b515e-d661-4175-a218-5f8988cd8642_zps9sxydzgd.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/3d55b8a4-c54c-44ce-9785-c16fbdf1a502_zpssvzodf7b.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/3d55b8a4-c54c-44ce-9785-c16fbdf1a502_zpssvzodf7b.jpg.html)http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/92676eb4-f091-4bd7-9dd5-cac5c3d13fc1_zpscsinktxu.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/92676eb4-f091-4bd7-9dd5-cac5c3d13fc1_zpscsinktxu.jpg.html)


Hmmm, looks familiar.

Nice job.

RoninBJJ
01-24-2016, 05:44 PM
Ronin,

Great job! Loved your video. I will be sure to protect the contacts on the switch.

What did you use to build up the height of the switch button and what did you use to glue the red button to the switch shaft?

I liked your blade plug, too. Nice.

Thank you, I used a small piece of a rubber band glued it into place with E6000 glue. Only use a small amount of glue and I mean small! You do not want the glue to leak.

Now all I need is my blade. I am going to order a VV 36", standard clear, shine thru bullet tip blade tonight or tomorrow. It should arrive roughly around Wed/Thur.

I have also started working on some custom boot sounds as well as modifying some of the existing saber sounds.


Hmmm, looks familiar.

Nice job.

Your work inspired me to make my own blade plugs, I searched 4 different stores to try and find something that I really liked. I just happened to stumble upon the same little brass dowel you used and I couldn't pass it up!

Halliwax
01-24-2016, 07:44 PM
hello, i am a total newbie. i have been reading about FX sabers for couple months now. after seeing your thread Ronin, you went into such great depths of explanation it really cleared things up for me!

you also catergorising all the parts you used in the first page really helped me under stand by going back and viewing your parts list while reading through the thread. i actually read it twice from start to finish, the first read i wrote down some questions to paper to eventruly ask you in my post. but after the second read i found allot of my questions where answered! further proving all the great detail of information you have stored in this thread!!

i am totally new to this so i am hoping to copy your exact build, that why its fool proof to a novice like me. i JUST found the chassis parts you used which was one of my questions, i didnt notice it was in the MHS section. i have found almost all the parts you have ordered so far, and am little confused on the resistors.

i notice there was couple questions about the resistors you used, and you confirmed you had the right resistor. do you mind linking me to the correct resistor? i can't seem to find it, i am probably looking in the wrong place.

another resistor question i have, does it have to be facing a correct way when soldering into a wire? i remember when i tired up a old tractor for a friend the resistor had to face a certain why with a black line marking which direction?

again, i want to thank you and all have contributed to this wealth of information! i have been looking for a black series FX luke, but now knowing that i can build a graflex 2.0 to look like TFA I'm giving up my search and going to go this route. thank you all

danny

RoninBJJ
01-24-2016, 08:26 PM
hello, i am a total newbie. i have been reading about FX sabers for couple months now. after seeing your thread Ronin, you went into such great depths of explanation it really cleared things up for me!

you also catergorising all the parts you used in the first page really helped me under stand by going back and viewing your parts list while reading through the thread. i actually read it twice from start to finish, the first read i wrote down some questions to paper to eventruly ask you in my post. but after the second read i found allot of my questions where answered! further proving all the great detail of information you have stored in this thread!!

i am totally new to this so i am hoping to copy your exact build, that why its fool proof to a novice like me. i JUST found the chassis parts you used which was one of my questions, i didnt notice it was in the MHS section. i have found almost all the parts you have ordered so far, and am little confused on the resistors.

i notice there was couple questions about the resistors you used, and you confirmed you had the right resistor. do you mind linking me to the correct resistor? i can't seem to find it, i am probably looking in the wrong place.

another resistor question i have, does it have to be facing a correct way when soldering into a wire? i remember when i tired up a old tractor for a friend the resistor had to face a certain why with a black line marking which direction?

again, i want to thank you and all have contributed to this wealth of information! i have been looking for a black series FX luke, but now knowing that i can build a graflex 2.0 to look like TFA I'm giving up my search and going to go this route. thank you all

danny

I'm glad my thread helped you out! If you have any questions please ask away. Here is the LINK (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/47ohm-5w-resistor-P947.aspx) to the resistors I used; and as far as them going a certain direction I have no idea... Either they don't have to be going a certain direction or I put both of them in the correct direction, but honestly in all my research about saber building I never saw anything on that subject.

I really wanted to make a detailed video of the entire process start to finish, but the time it would of taken me to edit all the video together would of taken forever. There were definitely some frustrating and nerve racking times, very challenging but rewarding when you finally finish.

GOOD LUCK!

Halliwax
01-24-2016, 08:41 PM
I'm glad my thread helped you out! If you have any questions please ask away. Here is the LINK (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/47ohm-5w-resistor-P947.aspx) to the resistors I used; and as far as them going a certain direction I have no idea... Either they don't have to be going a certain direction or I put both of them in the correct direction, but honestly in all my research about saber building I never saw anything on that subject.

I really wanted to make a detailed video of the entire process start to finish, but the time it would of taken me to edit all the video together would of taken forever. There were definitely some frustrating and nerve racking times, very challenging but rewarding when you finally finish.

GOOD LUCK!

thank you so much for the fast reply!! and thanks so much for the direct link, i was looking all this time with no luck lol. as for the resistor now thinking back i dont believe it was a resistor that i had to put in a special way, i think it was a diode.

i know I've read this thread acouple times, but i just wanted to clarify, NO LED drivers are required for this right? everything you have in your schematic is all i need for wiring/electronics?

i just message korbanth to see if he has any extra 2.0's. you dont know how excited i am for this now, thanks to your help. I've been so depressed after passing up 2 FX Lukes at a barns and nobles in town... it was right before xmas and i needed the cash for gifts, when i went back after xmas they were cleaned out. been on every website and email list with no luck yet, now i can completely give up and go with something more accurate!

again thanks for everything!
danny

RoninBJJ
01-24-2016, 09:29 PM
thank you so much for the fast reply!! and thanks so much for the direct link, i was looking all this time with no luck lol. as for the resistor now thinking back i dont believe it was a resistor that i had to put in a special way, i think it was a diode.

i know I've read this thread acouple times, but i just wanted to clarify, NO LED drivers are required for this right? everything you have in your schematic is all i need for wiring/electronics?

i just message korbanth to see if he has any extra 2.0's. you dont know how excited i am for this now, thanks to your help. I've been so depressed after passing up 2 FX Lukes at a barns and nobles in town... it was right before xmas and i needed the cash for gifts, when i went back after xmas they were cleaned out. been on every website and email list with no luck yet, now i can completely give up and go with something more accurate!

again thanks for everything!
danny

I was looking at the fx Kylo for the longest time, but then the graflex saber kit popped. I am seriously thinking about ordering the Kylo ren hilt that korbanth made as well but $$$$. It good you didn't drop the cash on the fx it is well worth the experience of "building" your lightsaber.

No LED drivers, everything I listed originally is more or less everything. I did end up using some nylon spacers instead of the TCSS ones because they were all sold out. Word of advice, watch Rob (Madcow) YouTube videos. His tutorials are priceless!

Update:
I have discovered some rattling in my hilt, I narrowed down the source... It is because I didn't put the putty, that Rob P. Had suggested to put in the housing in order to minimize the speaker vibration. So I may just leave it as is or pop the speaker out and fix it.

Sorry for grammar/spelling errors I am doing this on my phone.

Halliwax
01-24-2016, 09:35 PM
I was looking at the fx Kylo for the longest time, but then the graflex saber kit popped. I am seriously thinking about ordering the Kylo ren hilt that korbanth made as well but $$$$. It good you didn't drop the cash on the fx it is well worth the experience of "building" your lightsaber.

No LED drivers, everything I listed originally is more or less everything. I did end up using some nylon spacers instead of the TCSS ones because they were all sold out. Word of advice, watch Rob (Madcow) YouTube videos. His tutorials are priceless!

Update:
I have discovered some rattling in my hilt, I narrowed down the source... It is because I didn't put the putty, that Rob P. Had suggested to put in the housing in order to minimize the speaker vibration. So I may just leave it as is or pop the speaker out and fix it.

Sorry for grammar/spelling errors I am doing this on my phone.

is he on youtube too? I'm curious about this putty?

RoninBJJ
01-24-2016, 09:38 PM
is he on youtube too? I'm curious about this putty?

Rob P. is the previously mentioned Rob (Madcow)

Halliwax
01-24-2016, 10:08 PM
Rob P. is the previously mentioned Rob (Madcow)

i found him on youtube, boy does he have allot of videos! this is going to keep me busy! lol

i was curious why you chose not to have a Foc? is there a down side to it?

RoninBJJ
01-25-2016, 04:56 AM
i found him on youtube, boy does he have allot of videos! this is going to keep me busy! lol

i was curious why you chose not to have a Foc? is there a down side to it?

Power extender was sold out. And I wanted to start building immediately, so basically my own impatience...

Halliwax
01-25-2016, 09:51 PM
Power extender was sold out. And I wanted to start building immediately, so basically my own impatience...

thank you, i was just curious if there was any negative reason why you didnt. much appreciated!

RoninBJJ
01-26-2016, 07:37 AM
Added some custom boot sounds! I am currently working on some custom ignitions/swings/clash, but here is a little sample of my new boots.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NC8lcjU0O28

erlomd
01-28-2016, 11:24 AM
great job! Im waiting for my parts to arrive so I can do a build thread like this! awesome work!

SPACEMONKEY1
01-28-2016, 01:43 PM
Ronin, great thread man!!! Just put together my Graflex last night, minus electronics. Taking my time with parts and stuff, but this thread is showing me the way!!!

ColdVizjerei
01-28-2016, 03:41 PM
I noticed you mentioned that one of the screws wasn't a screw that could be removed with an allen wrench so you used pliers.
Were the other ones removed with an allen wrench? If so, would you be able to provide the size of the wrench?

Sith4Life
01-28-2016, 05:32 PM
13184Ok so I'm building the red buttons get attached to the little switches with a dab of glue? I don't feel red button making contact and clicking, trick? Also how do I get the red button in the housing of the button holder?

RoninBJJ
01-28-2016, 05:40 PM
great job! Im waiting for my parts to arrive so I can do a build thread like this! awesome work!

Thank you, and good luck! Just purchased a new project today DM1 (Darth Maul Staff Saber) from Korbanth, super excited about that one as well!


Ronin, great thread man!!! Just put together my Graflex last night, minus electronics. Taking my time with parts and stuff, but this thread is showing me the way!!!

Thank you! I am glad my thread can be of some help, I couldn't find a lot of info on this build so I decided to make a thread that would provided people with some basic info for a basic build.


I noticed you mentioned that one of the screws wasn't a screw that could be removed with an allen wrench so you used pliers.
Were the other ones removed with an allen wrench? If so, would you be able to provide the size of the wrench?


13184Ok so I'm building the red buttons get attached to the little switches with a dab of glue? I don't feel red button making contact and clicking, trick? Also how do I get the red button in the housing of the button holder?

I will post pics/vids for both these question here in about an hour after I get home from work.

Sith4Life
01-28-2016, 05:59 PM
Thank you, and good luck! Just purchased a new project today DM1 (Darth Maul Staff Saber) from Korbanth, super excited about that one as well!



Thank you! I am glad my thread can be of some help, I couldn't find a lot of info on this build so I decided to make a thread that would provided people with some basic info for a basic build.





I will post pics/vids for both these question here in about an hour after I get home from work.


Sweet!

RoninBJJ
01-28-2016, 06:57 PM
Here is a short video about the few question asked earlier. Much easier than taken a bunch of pictures and then writing descriptions for each one... If there is anything else please let me know!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGNJgnWXMUg

ColdVizjerei
01-28-2016, 07:26 PM
ah gotcha, thanks for addressing the questions!

How about the other screws tho? I'm guessing that you used some sort of hex key or allen wrench for those?

RoninBJJ
01-28-2016, 07:29 PM
ah gotcha, thanks for addressing the questions!

How about the other screws tho? I'm guessing that you used some sort of hex key or allen wrench for those?

No problem, I am here to help!

The other screws are all hex/allen wrench.

ColdVizjerei
01-28-2016, 07:33 PM
Would you happen to have the size of the hex/allen wrench that you used? Unfortunately, none of mine fit so I'm going to have to find the correct size.

RoninBJJ
01-28-2016, 08:11 PM
Would you happen to have the size of the hex/allen wrench that you used? Unfortunately, none of mine fit so I'm going to have to find the correct size.

I used a T6 and T7 not sure if you would call it a hex or Allen wrench, more of a star shape key.

ColdVizjerei
01-28-2016, 08:21 PM
ah interesting, I might actually have some of those star shaped key things lying around somewhere!
Don't know why it didn't occur to me to give those a try. Thanks for the info! :)

Quixotic Jedi
01-28-2016, 09:17 PM
I used a T6 and T7 not sure if you would call it a hex or Allen wrench, more of a star shape key.

Those are called Torx bits.

Sith4Life
01-29-2016, 04:33 AM
Here is a short video about the few question asked earlier. Much easier than taken a bunch of pictures and then writing descriptions for each one... If there is anything else please let me know!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGNJgnWXMUg


Your the man! Thanks

Padawan311
01-29-2016, 10:51 AM
Thank you for creating this thread! I am also about to start my first build ever on the Graflex 2.0 and this will be a huge help and great resource!

Sith4Life
01-31-2016, 08:00 AM
Ok I'm built! Electronics will be in a month keep u posted!

RoninBJJ
01-31-2016, 10:02 AM
Your the man! Thanks


Thank you for creating this thread! I am also about to start my first build ever on the Graflex 2.0 and this will be a huge help and great resource!

You both are welcome, let me know if there is anything else I can help you with.


Ok I'm built! Electronics will be in a month keep u posted!

Looks great!!! I really like the printed circuit board (gold and green?). Are you going to wire the red button or clamp for ignition?

Lobezno
01-31-2016, 06:45 PM
Nice build, I'm still waiting for ALL, but getting some ideas :D

Question, how do you attach the chassis to the lower end, do you use the same screws than the grips? Can you post some pictures of that view, without the pommel?

Thanks a lot, and congratulations!

EDIT:
How long is the chassis? I have planned to fit a CF V8, but my first design is 1/2'' longer than yours, non-viable... I assume the cell is just over the speaker, right?

Sith4Life
02-01-2016, 08:18 AM
Main one by bunny ears ignation the other will be my clamp.

SPACEMONKEY1
02-01-2016, 12:46 PM
Ronin, how is your chassis attaching to the blade holder? just wondering since I most likely will not be dueling with mine if I can get some kind of gasket to have the chassis fit snug against the inner wall. you think this is an option? Or do I need to come up with a chassis solution that mounts it to the bottom of the blade holder? Thanks for any info you have man. Really appreciate this thread.

RoninBJJ
02-01-2016, 05:32 PM
Nice build, I'm still waiting for ALL, but getting some ideas :D

Question, how do you attach the chassis to the lower end, do you use the same screws than the grips? Can you post some pictures of that view, without the pommel?

Thanks a lot, and congratulations!

EDIT:
How long is the chassis? I have planned to fit a CF V8, but my first design is 1/2'' longer than yours, non-viable... I assume the cell is just over the speaker, right?


Ronin, how is your chassis attaching to the blade holder? just wondering since I most likely will not be dueling with mine if I can get some kind of gasket to have the chassis fit snug against the inner wall. you think this is an option? Or do I need to come up with a chassis solution that mounts it to the bottom of the blade holder? Thanks for any info you have man. Really appreciate this thread.

I will take a few pics and post them of my chassis when I get home from work. Plus VV blade came in the mail today! But essentially my chassis is not connected to the blade holder. It is merely connected to the top portion of the hilt by the wire from the switch and LED. I will explain in either a video or pics with descriptions, because I really want to show off that new blade... Also My Darth Maul Hilt should be in sometime this week as well. Not sure if I will post a thread to this forum as it may be against the rules since it isn't a MHS hilt, but then again I don't think this Graflex is either.

Lobezno
02-01-2016, 06:28 PM
I see, it's just pushed down with the grenade, minus those... 2 millimetres? of the screw... I'll probably end making my own 3D printed chassis, that's why I wanna know the exact length. It will be based on yours, but with the recharging port driving up to the grenade, built in a small cylinder. Not a beauty, but functional and cheap.

Very much appreciated, looking forward to see those pictures and the legendary blade ;)

RoninBJJ
02-01-2016, 08:00 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnotZQmgFak

So just another quick video, the blade is really something.

I sanded down the screws to allow for a little bit more room for the chassis, I'm not sure if that helped or not...
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/10ce2e60-402b-4b22-89e9-da8d717be5f4_zpss27mofe3.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/10ce2e60-402b-4b22-89e9-da8d717be5f4_zpss27mofe3.jpg.html)

Lobezno
02-01-2016, 08:38 PM
Wow, the blade is beautiful. That's The Blue, looks nice and full.

Thank you for the video, it seems I'll have to measure very, very carefully.

Halliwax
02-01-2016, 08:38 PM
Added some custom boot sounds! I am currently working on some custom ignitions/swings/clash, but here is a little sample of my new boots.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NC8lcjU0O28

"the force, its calling to you" that is a perfect quote for this saber! nice thinking!!

Halliwax
02-01-2016, 08:50 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnotZQmgFak

So just another quick video, the blade is really something.

I sanded down the screws to allow for a little bit more room for the chassis, I'm not sure if that helped or not...
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w396/ronincjn/10ce2e60-402b-4b22-89e9-da8d717be5f4_zpss27mofe3.jpg~original (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/ronincjn/media/10ce2e60-402b-4b22-89e9-da8d717be5f4_zpss27mofe3.jpg.html)

hey ronin, i heard your little concern about ur grips not going all the way up to the clamp, that is perfectly fine. the sabers on screen have that gap as well, and is a big debate right now on other forums. i personally like the gap/spacing between it. as always beautiful job!

RoninBJJ
02-01-2016, 09:25 PM
How long is the chassis? I have planned to fit a CF V8, but my first design is 1/2'' longer than yours, non-viable... I assume the cell is just over the speaker, right?

Yes I opened up the hole in the top of the speaker holder to allow the battery to sit just above the speaker. If you can get the battery into the blade holder you should have plenty of room I would think. If i were to do it over I would do a fully inclosed chassis with the (Top to bottom) LED/heatsink - battery - NB - recharge port - speaker. I really wish I had access to a lathe, I have so many ideas bouncing around in my head but don't have the tools to bring them life.


"the force, its calling to you" that is a perfect quote for this saber! nice thinking!!


hey ronin, i heard your little concern about ur grips not going all the way up to the clamp, that is perfectly fine. the sabers on screen have that gap as well, and is a big debate right now on other forums. i personally like the gap/spacing between it. as always beautiful job!

Thank you, I was super excited when I mixed the audio with Vader's breathing. The gap doesn't bother me really at all, good to know, thanks!

Heyjude7
02-02-2016, 06:43 AM
Hey Ronin, what would you do differently with a Lathe? I have access to one and am awaiting my Graflex 2.0 at the moment. Im trying to figure out what I need to make light and sound and have been sketching and drawing up different designs. I don't want a crystal chamber just a working hilt.
I was thinking of boring out the stock blade holder. do you think that is possible or not enough metal ?

RoninBJJ
02-02-2016, 08:21 PM
Hey Ronin, what would you do differently with a Lathe? I have access to one and am awaiting my Graflex 2.0 at the moment. Im trying to figure out what I need to make light and sound and have been sketching and drawing up different designs. I don't want a crystal chamber just a working hilt.
I was thinking of boring out the stock blade holder. do you think that is possible or not enough metal ?

I wouldn't do any thing to the hilt itself, more create parts to make a fully in-cased chassis and make some custom pieces for a crystal chamber and full reveal chassis.

maggard08@gmail.com
02-06-2016, 09:19 PM
What did you use for a heat sink? I'm sorry if you've already explained this, but I started reading when you created this thread now I finally have the kit and we're like 11 pages deep now lol

ColdVizjerei
02-06-2016, 09:43 PM
I'm sorry if you've already explained this, but I started reading when you created this thread now I finally have the kit and we're like 11 pages deep now lol


...really? lol
C'mon mannn, 11 pages isn't so bad and you'd probably learn something useful if you read thru all of it. Additionally, the info you're looking for is literally the first post on the first page.



Hilt electronics
- Nano Biscotti v2
- Li-ion pack 18650 3.7v 3400mAh
- 2W 28mm premium Speaker
- 2x tactile switches, momentary
- LED blue - I will not be using the white for FoC.
- LED Lens Tri
- 7/8" Aluminum heat sink
- 2.1 power jack w/kill key
- 0.47 ohm .5w resistor x 2

RoninBJJ
02-06-2016, 09:57 PM
What did you use for a heat sink? I'm sorry if you've already explained this, but I started reading when you created this thread now I finally have the kit and we're like 11 pages deep now lol


...really? lol
C'mon mannn, 11 pages isn't so bad and you'd probably learn something useful if you read thru all of it. Additionally, the info you're looking for is literally the first post on the first page.

LOL, Just FYI it doesn't seem like Justin is going carry anymore of the 7/8 heatsinks... I have a new Darth Maul I just received that I need those darn heat sinks for! But I have read, somewhere, that TCSS will be adding a 7/8 heat sink to the store sometime soon.

Lobezno
02-07-2016, 05:37 AM
I got mine (7/8'' heatsink) one week ago or so... He's still doing, but it seems there's too much demand. I contacted him about the heatsinks and when available he kindly notified by e-mail.

maggard08@gmail.com
02-08-2016, 06:26 PM
Yeah I saw where it says 7/8 heat sink and I have read through most of this thing as he's been updating but maybe I don't feel like going back through 11 pages of comments to find one sentence when I can just ask him?. I also noticed tcss doesn't sell 7/8 heat sinks. Where would you buy one? It's not like Walmart sells bulk lightsaber parts. This is the only parts store I've really found for this type of hobby.

Lobezno
02-08-2016, 07:12 PM
Yeah I saw where it says 7/8 heat sink and I have read through most of this thing as he's been updating but maybe I don't feel like going back through 11 pages of comments to find one sentence when I can just ask him?. I also noticed tcss doesn't sell 7/8 heat sinks. Where would you buy one? It's not like Walmart sells bulk lightsaber parts. This is the only parts store I've really found for this type of hobby.

I could tell you where to buy the heatsink, but now you've revealed yourself so nice... I think it's better for you to read this pages, when you feel it, take your time ;)

maggard08@gmail.com
02-08-2016, 10:39 PM
Whatever man. I have other crap going on in my life and I don't have unlimited time to read every thread on this forum to hope to stumble across an answer I'm looking for. I thought the purpose of internet forums was to interact and help other people out. Not act like a mule's rear end when someone asks a question. I'm not "so nice" when I read these replies to folks just starting out trying to get into this hobby and everyone is jumping down their throats and giving them crap for simply wanting to find out new information. I've personally spent an easy 600 bucks on my own saber build so far and still haven't finished it waiting for the parts I need to get back in stock and now I'm trying to help my brother get his graflex kit set up and I'm catching flack from you guys for asking someone ELSE about their process with it being his first go around. If you want to help, then great! That's what I come here to find. If you want to act like bigots and snobs, then don't reply to my comments. I wasn't asking you in the first place. I was asking Ronin.

Silver Serpent
02-09-2016, 08:25 AM
We're all volunteers here (well, most of us), and we're more than happy to point people in the right direction. Spoon-feeding is not done on these forums on a regular basis. We encourage people to read and try to find their answers on their own first. These forums have been up for a long time, and nearly EVERY question that gets asked has been answered a dozen times already.

Getting angry and yelling at volunteers is the fastest way to get them to stop helping you.

That being said, there may be someone making/selling 7/8" heatsinks. If it's not TCSS, we are not allowed to link their site to you on these forums. Your best bet would be to have one machined for you. A heatsink is not a complicated thing, it's just a piece of thermally conductive metal that fits into your hilt. Aluminum is fine, copper is better.

darth_chasm
02-09-2016, 08:56 AM
As an FYI that may help reduce search time. Once you're in a thread you can search that specific thread for what you're looking for. Look for "Search Thread" in the bar above the first post.

maggard08@gmail.com
02-09-2016, 03:03 PM
See thank you. It's that type of info I'm looking for. I don't expect to be spoon fed. But don't expect me to sit here when others make me feel ignorant for asking a question. I think it's great that this community exists to encourage and share knowledge. That's why I signed up. There are thousands of threads and posts so there's so much information to absorb. I'll play nice and respect the opinions of others and share in their experiences, but not when they talk down to me. Just simply not going to. So thank you silver serpent for your help in the matter. I understand the policy on not listing a competitor completely, but tcss doesn't offer that particular piece. I've also seen all kinds of posts where people are getting sink parts to build blade plugs for their sabers at home improvement stores. Isn't that kind of the same concept? Unfortunately I don't have the machinery to make my own heat sink, nor do I know anyone who could do it for me :/ I guess it'll be a neat looking shelf piece with an 18650 battery, speaker, nbv3 and tri cree led hanging out of the end lol. Thanks for your thoughts on it genuinely. But I don't know how to make that kind of stuff at home. Maybe eventually they'll sell one in the shop. If I can nab one when they do that is. Parts go like astro glide in a prison shower. I literally need two more hilt parts to complete my saber and I've been checking every two hours since before Christmas lol

RoninBJJ
02-09-2016, 11:29 PM
See thank you. It's that type of info I'm looking for. I don't expect to be spoon fed. But don't expect me to sit here when others make me feel ignorant for asking a question. I think it's great that this community exists to encourage and share knowledge. That's why I signed up. There are thousands of threads and posts so there's so much information to absorb. I'll play nice and respect the opinions of others and share in their experiences, but not when they talk down to me. Just simply not going to. So thank you silver serpent for your help in the matter. I understand the policy on not listing a competitor completely, but tcss doesn't offer that particular piece. I've also seen all kinds of posts where people are getting sink parts to build blade plugs for their sabers at home improvement stores. Isn't that kind of the same concept? Unfortunately I don't have the machinery to make my own heat sink, nor do I know anyone who could do it for me :/ I guess it'll be a neat looking shelf piece with an 18650 battery, speaker, nbv3 and tri cree led hanging out of the end lol. Thanks for your thoughts on it genuinely. But I don't know how to make that kind of stuff at home. Maybe eventually they'll sell one in the shop. If I can nab one when they do that is. Parts go like astro glide in a prison shower. I literally need two more hilt parts to complete my saber and I've been checking every two hours since before Christmas lol

Hey man,

Sorry I have been busy and haven't responded. I did have the 7/8 heat sink linked originally but I took it down because I realized it was against the rules. But I think I can safely say, since they do not offer the parts yet, that if do a quick search on etsy you should find what you are looking for ;)

You are welcome to PM if you like.

Suppies
02-23-2016, 08:48 PM
Hey man I too got the Graflex chassis disc and they don't fit, how did you manage to get yours to work?

OLDY
02-24-2016, 01:56 AM
Hi forum.
I am quite new to this forum. Please forgive me if I'm asking the most obvious question.

Graflex 2.0 Saber Kit is out of stock for quite a while now, do we have any guesses on when it's coming back?

Also, it says on the description;

We plan to offer a 7/8" LED module as well as a 1" blade holder that supports a LED module in the coming weeks.
Does this mean the 2.0 kit will include the said holder and LED module in the future or they will be sold separately?
Do we know exactly when this "coming week" is?

Thank you.

UteOH
02-24-2016, 03:58 AM
The Graflex 2.0 kit has been very popular. It has been in stock a couple times since TCSS started to carry it, but sells out quickly. I nabbed one of the first ones. It is worth the wait.
The 7/8" LED and heat sink are in stock on the website as we speak. Check the Graflex page in the store, you will find them. I would grab them while they are in stock.
The best way to stay up to date on current stock levels is to watch the TCSS Facebook page. Tim posts there when new stuff comes in stock.
Chronic stock shortages have been my biggest frustration. I wish TCSS could scale up the operation. I think they would be more successful, as I feel many just give up.

NanoRex
02-24-2016, 06:30 AM
Korbanth said that more Graflex 2.0s are being manufactured and will be arriving in April, and continue to be produced until June, then will be retired.

OLDY
02-24-2016, 05:02 PM
Thank you both.
I guess I'll check back in here around April then.

RoninBJJ
02-25-2016, 07:58 AM
Hey man I too got the Graflex chassis disc and they don't fit, how did you manage to get yours to work?

The Graflex Chassis disc will not work with this kit, I had to purchase the MHS chassis discs instead. If I were to do it again I would either grab one of the 3D printed chassis with Crystal chamber or fabricate my own internal chassis (which I might actually still do...).


The Graflex 2.0 kit has been very popular. It has been in stock a couple times since TCSS started to carry it, but sells out quickly. I nabbed one of the first ones. It is worth the wait.
The 7/8" LED and heat sink are in stock on the website as we speak. Check the Graflex page in the store, you will find them. I would grab them while they are in stock.
The best way to stay up to date on current stock levels is to watch the TCSS Facebook page. Tim posts there when new stuff comes in stock.
Chronic stock shortages have been my biggest frustration. I wish TCSS could scale up the operation. I think they would be more successful, as I feel many just give up.
^This


Korbanth said that more Graflex 2.0s are being manufactured and will be arriving in April, and continue to be produced until June, then will be retired.
Yeah, doesn't hurt to check out Korbanth threads on "another" forum. He updates pretty regularly.

skywalkerxc
04-20-2016, 07:23 AM
Hey I'm looking into building a similar saber with the graflex kit, and was wondering if the 18650 battery could fit inside the black rotj-looking interior piece? I'd like to try and fit a small crystal chamber in and was hoping to save space. Thanks

RoninBJJ
04-28-2016, 03:53 PM
Hey I'm looking into building a similar saber with the graflex kit, and was wondering if the 18650 battery could fit inside the black rotj-looking interior piece? I'd like to try and fit a small crystal chamber in and was hoping to save space. Thanks

Sorry I haven't responded, been rather busy as of late. Anyways, yes the battery (@3/4") will fit in the blade holder (7/8"). Just make sure you leave enough room for the wires to from the led to pass through.