DCLS-004 Build Log

[darth_chasm]

UPADTE 2018:

So photobucket screwed a lot of us and ruined a lot of great archives. This build log being one of them. I've tried to update this as best I can but some pictures are gone forever.

The early iterations of the design are gone. But this is where I ended up.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/921/TGBec3.png (https://imageshack.com/i/plTGBec3p)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/921/6MYgy9.png (https://imageshack.com/i/pl6MYgy9p)


__________________________________________________
Here we go again!


This one is pretty involved and will probably take a while to finish and I'm sure a lot of things will change along the way.


I have a design for the exterior, but am holding off sharing it until I can confirm with Tim what can be done.

Electronics are Prizm, 18650

As far as the internals are concerned, I am planning on a full reveal dual crystal core. I've decided to go the 3D printed route because of the flexibility it lends in me being able to do exactly what I want thus maximizing my ability to save space. As a side note, please don't ask where, how, who in regards to the 3D printing. We all now the rules :)


Ok, here we go.


Here?s a quick full view and a little see through to see how things are taking shape internally.

There are 6 main components to the chassis at this point. May increase/decrease as I go. It?s all modular so that I can pretty much just stack and build as I go. Starting from left to right: Rear End Cap, Battery/Board Housing, Forward Battery/Board Housing End Cap/Crystal 1 Seat, Crystal 2 Seat, Locking Disc and Switch Mount, and Mini Speaker Holder.

The rear end cap will obviously be used to keep the battery in place as well as serve as the mounting place for a mini RICE and recharge connections. The plan is to also have a mini slide switch to be used rather than a kill key. Again, all for the sake of saving space and maximizing the real estate for the crystal display.

You can see below I?ve cut a notch in the battery cylinder so that I can loop the wire back into the housing. Having the battery the other way would require the wires to go past the board. Not really ideal.

The battery/board housing has a lift off lid for two purposes. One, to persevere the appearance and two, for easy access. The lid has 4 small pegs that fit into corresponding holes in the main housing. The board sits nicely in a form fit ?pocket? that allows access to the SD card and wire passage above and below.

The crystal display is still a very much WIP. I?m tinkering with the design of pieces and checking out pricing for both plastic and metal. Ideally, I would like some metal pieces, but if it proves to be too cost prohibitive, I?ll most likely go the plastic route and do some creative painting. Here?s a look of the progress so far.

The locking disc and switch mount are 1 piece. The reason I made this piece so long is to have it run the length of the threaded sections and provide some stability. It will be held in place with a couple strategically placed set screws. The locking lip will sit between the two extensions and provide just a little more stability and aid in spacing.

Last is the mini speaker mount. Fairly straight forward. Allows enough room for all main led wires. I plan on cutting some holes/slots in the extension it sits in to allow for sound escape.

The entire core measures 7.625" long. The battery/board housing and rear end cap measure in at 3". An the crystal chamber is a whopping 2.6"!!

Well, that?s it for now. I?ll update as I go and most likely change things.

[NanoRex]

Wow, it's impressive to see how much planning goes into your sabers! Can't wait to see how that crazy crystal chamber turns out!

I also love how your naming system has three digits ;)

[FenixFire]

Based on the detail and especially the smallish snap fits I would recommend only FDM or SLA printing. Stay away from the polyjet or Zcorp printing sold on a very common printing site. FDM will give you the best functional strength but SLA will give you the highest detail and least post process finishing. I could defiantly see the crystal holders in a brass casting from a printed master. PM me and I can give you recommendations on the SLA materials you would want to request. But you will have to find your own provider...I don't offer the service so I'm not trying to sell it.

[ColdVizjerei]

I love how detailed your concept sketches/pics are!

[darth_chasm]

Wow, it's impressive to see how much planning goes into your sabers! Can't wait to see how that crazy crystal chamber turns out!

I also love how your naming system has three digits ;)


I love how detailed your concept sketches/pics are!

I love the whole process of saber building, but the designing and planning are the most enjoyable to me. Doing the detailed renderings, drawings etc helps me figure things out. Like and other design process, it's a method of discovery and problem solving.


Based on the detail and especially the smallish snap fits I would recommend only FDM or SLA printing. Stay away from the polyjet or Zcorp printing sold on a very common printing site. FDM will give you the best functional strength but SLA will give you the highest detail and least post process finishing. I could defiantly see the crystal holders in a brass casting from a printed master. PM me and I can give you recommendations on the SLA materials you would want to request. But you will have to find your own provider...I don't offer the service so I'm not trying to sell it.

Thanks for the info and recommendations! I will definitely be picking your brain as I progress. To be honest, I'm not sure what process the place I've used previously uses. Their warehouse is very close by, so I may take a trip over just to check things out, ask questions, and learn.

I neglected to mention that I'll also be using some found parts for the chamber. That will help with material variation. I'm really interested in doing the brass crescents via casting. I previously made similar, simpler ones out of copper washers by hand...not fun at all. I'm trying to avoid that as much as possible.

No pieces currently snap together. All the main components will have two 4-40s running through them just like a traditional chassis set up. As designed, the pegs on the lid just slide in the holes, but maybe some sort of resistance would be good. Maybe even lose the pegs and use some small magnets.

[FenixFire]

I read the ears on the board cover as snaps. The printed master, then brass cast is very reasonable. I did my replacement wedding ring for $35 through a popular site just to test them out...lost my original titanium one while helping my elderly neighbor fix his snowblower. No good deed goes un punished...slept on the couch for 3 weeks.

If you find the wire routing and board mounting difficult, one thing that might make the wire routing simpler is to do the board housing in 2 halves length wise, with a channel running the length of the board. This will allow you to mont the board in 1 side, run the wires, and close the housing.

[Squints]

Lookin real good so far, I'm gonna be watching this one come together

[darth_chasm]

@Fenix

That sucks, both the loss and the dismissal to El Coucho.

I see. No, the board just sits in there. I was messing around with a few ideas for retention, but I think I'm going to simply use some double sided foam tape to keep it seated.

The current design of the brass pieces is coming out to about $16 apiece. At 4-6 pieces, thats a little much. I may have room to reduce some thicknesses to drop the price a bit, but it'll be pennies at best. I do have a knack for blowing money on what I want though, so I'll probably end up pulling the trigger.

[FenixFire]

No it adds up quick...I have 150k worth of SLA parts for a series of prototypes for a series of international focus groups.

[FenixFire]

Btw what cad software are you using? It looks like 123design or fusion360. It has a nice and fairly correct perspective to the views.

[FenixFire]

Random thought as I was getting off for the night. Try getting quotes for the following to see how it effects the pricing. Break each ring and 1/2 the post into separate sections to get rid of the undercuts from having a two ring piece. Also quote it with two sections combined. In this process the labor for the mold making is the most costly, so depending on many factors either of those options might be cheaper than the other.

[darth_chasm]

Btw what cad software are you using? It looks like 123design or fusion360. It has a nice and fairly correct perspective to the views.

Yep, 123d. Easy to use, gets the job done for these purposes. I also use AI to make svg's that I import into 123d, but I'm trying to ween myself off of doing that.


Random thought as I was getting off for the night. Try getting quotes for the following to see how it effects the pricing. Break each ring and 1/2 the post into separate sections to get rid of the undercuts from having a two ring piece. Also quote it with two sections combined. In this process the labor for the mold making is the most costly, so depending on many factors either of those options might be cheaper than the other.

Will do. Thanks for the tips.

[Cire Yeldarb]

Impressive! Really want to see more of what you have planned for the outside too

[Greenie]

Whoa! That's an impressive design and excellent CAD work. Number four already, I can't keep up. My number two is a WIP, 95% done. Just a few aesthetics. I have number three in mind. :idea:
Can't wait to see this one come together, with such meticulous planning, I guess it'll be awesome ;)

Oh, and thanks buddy :mrgreen:

[darth_chasm]

Small update. I reworked the design of the brass disk structure. I'm really happy with the way this piece came out. Kind of looks like some weird spine or ribcage. It's all one piece now. I learned that combining the pieces as one reduced the printing cost. I also learned that I can do it in steel in a selection of finishes rather than having it cast in brass. This brings it down in cost quite a bit.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/Nq33pq.png (https://imageshack.com/i/poNq33pqp)

I also redesigned the the forward end cap which also serves as the seat for the crystal. This piece is pretty awesome looking with all the little details. It will house the 5mm led holder and a diy 4 segment smd bar graph that I'll be making.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/mgaZP5.png (https://imageshack.com/i/pmmgaZP5p)

[jedi jack]

That's gorgeous! I think it's super cool and eagerly await its fabrication.

[NanoRex]

I really love this new design for the chamber! My favourite part is actually the first black piece you showed. The detail on that part is astounding!

Will you be making your own PCB for the bar graph? How will that be mounted?

[darth_chasm]

Will you be making your own PCB for the bar graph? How will that be mounted?

Still debating. I have the PCB designed and ready to go for production, but I have a feeling it may be more of a headache than I want to deal with. I think it'll work just fine with some perf board trimmed to size. I'll probably secure it in there with either hot glue or some Locktite putty.

[FenixFire]

Nice work.

[darth_chasm]

Nice work.

Thanks and thanks for the tips. I found out the process for the plastic parts is SLS. And the steel is done with bronze induction. I'm sure you know more about that.

[FenixFire]

If you have not seen an SLS part, see if you can get a sample first. They tend to have a rough powdery look and feel to them, and are difficult to impossible to sand smooth. I will check in my office in the morning to see if I have a sample I can take a close up photo of. For texture and not to disclose any confidential features. If the somewhat rough/porous surface is not contrary to the look you are going for that it will be a good choice. If it is printed in a black and you put a matte or flat clear over it, it might give a fair resemblance of black cast iron.

[darth_chasm]

If you have not seen an SLS part, see if you can get a sample first. They tend to have a rough powdery look and feel to them, and are difficult to impossible to sand smooth. I will check in my office in the morning to see if I have a sample I can take a close up photo of. For texture and not to disclose any confidential features. If the somewhat rough/porous surface is not contrary to the look you are going for that it will be a good choice. If it is printed in a black and you put a matte or flat clear over it, it might give a fair resemblance of black cast iron.

Yep, the parts I've done in the past are the same and I'm good with it. See below. I want the core to have a bit of a used feel to it and I think the texture will lend itself to that end. I do plan on painting as well to help the idea along. I like the idea of cast iron. That would be cool.

I also read that the steel will most likely be somewhat pitted, which is great for what I'm going after.

I really appreciate the tips and comments. Keep em coming as I move forward.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/mditomo/IMG_0532_zpscxjypqml.jpg (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/mditomo/media/IMG_0532_zpscxjypqml.jpg.html)

[rlobrecht]

Wow, that it amazing looking. It reminds me a lot of Madcow's Vector saber.

[darth_chasm]

Tiny update...1206 tiny ;)

Here's a prototype of the bar graph. Prototype because it is a little sloppy and I think I can do better. Anyway, have a look.

***Image Missing***

[Greenie]

Oh yeah, that's gonna be awesome, but man those ARE tiny. :mrgreen:

[Squints]

I really like where this is going amazing work as always sir.

[darth_chasm]

This is where I came to final designs. See 1st post for pics.

[NanoRex]

Dang, I can't wait to see this finished! You, my friend, are exceptionally talented at saber design. The reveal core just looks amazing at this point, and the exterior looks pretty cool as well :)

[Squints]

DUDE COME ON !!!!!!
It's amazing you have come a long way and this thing is gonna be mind blowing
I need to get some cad software and try it out, I have so many ideas just need to get my invisions on to screen and there are some sweet chassis ideas I have i would like 3D printed

[FenixFire]

Wow. This is truly coming together nicely. Very professional looking. I can't wait to see it completed.

[rlobrecht]

I can't wait to see this saber.

[darth_chasm]

Dang, I can't wait to see this finished! You, my friend, are exceptionally talented at saber design. The reveal core just looks amazing at this point, and the exterior looks pretty cool as well :)

Thanks bud, but I have a long way to go. Some say ideas are easy, making them real is the real challenge.


DUDE COME ON !!!!!!
It's amazing you have come a long way and this thing is gonna be mind blowing
I need to get some cad software and try it out, I have so many ideas just need to get my invisions on to screen and there are some sweet chassis ideas I have i would like 3D printed

123d Design my friend. Its free and easy.


Wow. This is truly coming together nicely. Very professional looking. I can't wait to see it completed.

Thank you sir


I can't wait to see this saber.

Me either ;)

I got a crazy idea last night. What do you guys think about me adding a hinge system to the lid? Something where the lid moves up and back. Similar to Iron Man's helmet.

Any thoughts on how to do it? Space is at a premium.

[NanoRex]

Some say ideas are easy, making them real is the real challenge.

This is what I'm afraid of for my build haha. It's crazy well planned and I tried to make the design as simple and robust as possible but I fear that everything will go wrong once I start :P


I got a crazy idea last night. What do you guys think about me adding a hinge system to the lid? Something where the lid moves up and back. Similar to Iron Man's helmet.

Any thoughts on how to do it? Space is at a premium.

That does sound like a crazy idea. I know of a couple ways you could make a relatively small set of linkages to achieve an Iron Man style panel, but how you make it depends on what material the linkage arms are made of. You could also (at the cost of slightly more space) make it a spring-loaded linkage which snaps open and closed with a small spring or even a rubber band. However it would be extremely difficult to make something that small, but still stable. I bet it's doable though.

EDIT: It might be possible to integrate such a linkage right into your chassis, as SLS parts can have integrated moving parts and hinges. However this might require some prototyping first.

[Squints]

You should try the hinge..I was thinking about doing to my metal chassis you can pick up miniature hinges at hobby lobby or Michaels

[darth_chasm]

Maybe something like this...

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t649/DarthChasm/DCLS-004/hinge_zpsfjnbvino.gif (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/DarthChasm/media/DCLS-004/hinge_zpsfjnbvino.gif.html)

[NanoRex]

Hmm...I'm not entirely convinced. I think you be better off with a four bar linkage or just straight up hinge. The setup you have there seems fragile, even if the arms were made thicker.

[darth_chasm]

Definitely this was just a test for the motion. As is it would snap like a twig. There would be two more arms on the opposing side and I'll need to build up some support material in the lid and body.

[NanoRex]

Here's a hand-drawn diagram of a simple four bar linkage that will give you an Iron Man sort of effect. It would also be pretty easy to add a spring to. However personally I would use a parallelogram linkage so that the cover always stays parallel to the body.

13071

[darth_chasm]

Thanks. I'll see what I can do. I think space is a big issue with either of those though. I may have to resort to the "keep it simple stupid" paradigm and go for a side hinge. :)

[bambua]

Other option I see what how you drew, some type of a sliding door would look cool too, think like a battery door on a remote. Either that or a couple posts that latch when you press on them, like a latching button and when you push it in it locks when you push on it again it springs upwards and out of the way.

- Bambua

[darth_chasm]

These are good options too. Thank you.

[Cire Yeldarb]

I like some of those reveal door ideas! Some seems a lot more complicated than others obviously though. Can't wait to see what you do!

[FenixFire]

I think you might be getting too complicated on the linkages and mechanisms, especially for printed parts. I would suggest taking a look at the battery/SD card door on a Canon Powershot Elph series camera. The mechanism is a simple friction fit hinge that allows it to slide and pivot. Most importantly I have seen it accomplished in an SLA build with only a slight material thickness increase. It was built on a standard resolution SLA500 so it had to be brought up to minimum print resolution. Work with the SLS provide and they will let you know what features may be too small to print.

[darth_chasm]

Sweet! Will do.

[Cire Yeldarb]

I would suggest taking a look at the battery/SD card door on a Canon Powershot Elph series camera. The mechanism is a simple friction fit hinge that allows it to slide and pivot.

Oh hey, I have one of those haha

[darth_chasm]

So I was doing a little research on hinges and I remembered one of Harp's builds where he made a hinged plate in an Obi grenade section. So, I PM'd him on FX to see if he was ok with me using the same idea and he was more than happy to let me go ahead with it. It's simple, elegant, and Harp has already done the proof of concept :)

If you've never seen his builds I suggest taking a gander, he's very talented. Here's the build I am referencing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1Tfj3pdTV0&feature=youtu.be

The design incorporates two 60 degree curved arms with pivot points on the edge of the main body and in the center of the lid. This creates a nice fluid up and over motion and leaves a heap of space to dig in there for the SD card or repairs, etc..

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/1FLRZB.png (https://imageshack.com/i/pm1FLRZBp)

[NanoRex]

Very simple and elegant! I like :)

I noticed you omitted the beveled corners on the lid. Why was that?

[darth_chasm]

This was a separate file that I made to test out all the mechanisms I was trying. At one point I took off the bevels for one of the ideas and never put them back. But they're still in the main file.

[Squints]

I like that one a lot better then the other ideas, and it will probably function the best

[darth_chasm]

In a little bit of a holding pattern on printing parts while I wait for some more things to be delivered. I want to make sure I have all the actual components like the led holders, ports and so on so I can measure them precisely and get their respective spaces carved out of the models just right.

So what do I do? I go and make tweaks to the design...again haha. Mostly cosmetic, some functional.

I included an led adapter into the design. If I can figure out how to do some plunger style buttons and use low profile tact switches, I think I can make the core removable without the need for connectors. I have an idea I think may work.

***See first post***

I'll be using some mill max gold plated solder cup headers for the rice and recharge connections, which you've already seen will be placed in the but of the core. If you look closely, you can also see that I carved in a couple of arrows to indicate polarity. Don't want to get that mixed up :). I'll also mark the male plugs coming from the cables.

***See first post***

I read the packaging wrong on those tiny faux hex bolts. There are only 20 not 50. So i reduce the number of spaces they would appear appropriately. No big loss.

***See first post***

I re-did the surface designs and shapes on the battery/board casing. You can also see where the hinges for the lid are positioned. I like that the somewhat integrate into the design. I also added some lines and shapes here and there throughout the pieces and cut some sound holes into the speaker/switch mount piece.

***See first post***

Aside from messing with the core design-I've decided to stop using the word final-I also toyed around with some crystal ideas. If you've ever went crystal hunting, you know that it can be a little bit of a PITA. No one wants to give you accurate sizes, you never know what you're going to get, etc. So rather than deal with all the fuss, and to do something a little different I think, I bought a bunch of tiny points and shards and thought it would be cool to do a crystal cluster for my focusing crystal. The primary crystal is a leftover from an old pack.

***Missing***

And finally, my hidden wiring solution. A few of us have been inspired by slothfurnace and his use of metal conduit and it was something I was thinking about incorporating a while back. But with all the interest and talk around it recently, I wanted something else, something different. SO I went out and picked up some 20 awg brass wire, chucked up a 3/32 rod in the drill and spun the wire to make some coil sleeving. This produced something around a 3/16 OD with enough ID to snugly fit 7 28 awg wires through. The ends of the coil will easily slip into their corresponding sockets I modeled into the body of the core. There are four conduits, so I have plenty of room for the 14 wires I need to route.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/921/DhXJvt.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plDhXJvtj)

[Silver Serpent]

You have some creative ideas going there. I'm intrigued to see where this ends up.

The crystal cluster is something I've not seen done in a saber before. It should give a very unique look to this build.

I like the idea of the coiled wire as well.

[Squints]

Looking good as always hahahah

I'm still trying to figure out 123d.. Can't figure out how to get all the detail

[FenixFire]

Your brass wire on the drill is how I make the links for chainmail.

[FenixFire]

Looking good as always hahahah

I'm still trying to figure out 123d.. Can't figure out how to get all the detail
Many features don't do it all in one. To be honest I have not seen anyone use it to the extent and with such precision. He is a master.

[NanoRex]

Man, this keeps getting better and better. I can't say I'm a fan of the crystal cluster, but definitely a really cool idea :) I really hope you can get the removable core working. That would be awesome.
One thing though: Don't you think there will be a bit of a brass overload if you use the brass wire tubing? Maybe a silver-coloured metal or copper would add more variation?

[darth_chasm]

Your brass wire on the drill is how I make the links for chainmail.
Ha that's cool


Many features don't do it all in one. To be honest I have not seen anyone use it to the extent and with such precision. He is a master.
Aw shucks


Man, this keeps getting better and better. I can't say I'm a fan of the crystal cluster, but definitely a really cool idea :) I really hope you can get the removable core working. That would be awesome.
One thing though: Don't you think there will be a bit of a brass overload if you use the brass wire tubing? Maybe a silver-coloured metal or copper would add more variation?
I think I've settled on bronze finish for the rib cage. There's other elements I'm not really showing yet too. Don't worry. It'll all get sorted out ;)

[darth_chasm]

Looking good as always hahahah

I'm still trying to figure out 123d.. Can't figure out how to get all the detail
Patience. I've spent hours upon hours doing, re-doing, fiddling. For the details, start with a basic shape, then add to and subtract from it. There are a lot of videos on YouTube to help you out too.

[Cire Yeldarb]

I really actually like the look of the crystal cluster! Definitely unique!

[darth_chasm]

I really actually like the look of the crystal cluster! Definitely unique!
ME TOO!! haha

Parts are all at the printers. Every thing checked out. I ended up putting some thin wires between multiple parts. In doing this, it reduces the component count, thus reducing post processing charges. They should arrive in about a week and half to 2 weeks.

In the meantime, I am doing some small prep work and testing. Below you can see I've wired up the 3 pin connector to my serial cable. I'll do the same with the 2 pin and the charger cable. You'll also see a short video of an audio test I did with one of my mini speakers. I originally tested it on a Nano and was not thrilled with the result. The test on the Prizm was a little better.

I'll hold off on any more updates until after the components have arrived.

***Missing***

[FenixFire]

ME TOO!! haha

Parts are all at the printers. Every thing checked out. I ended up putting some thin wires between multiple parts. In doing this, it reduces the component count, thus reducing post processing charges. They should arrive in about a week and half to 2 weeks.

In the meantime, I am doing some small prep work and testing. Below you can see I've wired up the 3 pin connector to my serial cable. I'll do the same with the 2 pin and the charger cable. You'll also see a short video of an audio test I did with one of my mini speakers. I originally tested it on a Nano and was not thrilled with the result. The test on the Prizm was a little better.

I'll hold off on any more updates until after the components have arrived.

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t649/DarthChasm/DCLS-004/IMG_0819_zps8fd0pebo.jpg (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/DarthChasm/media/DCLS-004/IMG_0819_zps8fd0pebo.jpg.html)
http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t649/DarthChasm/DCLS-004/th_IMG_0818_zpsn0gdgri9.mp4 (http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t649/DarthChasm/DCLS-004/IMG_0818_zpsn0gdgri9.mp4)

Are those snap strip connectors cut down?

[darth_chasm]

Are those snap strip connectors cut down?

They aren't listed as break away and the data sheet makes no mention of it. I order them with specific pin counts, so no snapping was needed.

However, they do have an indentation between the pins like the break away variety, though it seems more shallow.

[darth_chasm]

Sneak peak time. These gorgeous little goodies came in the mail today. Sorry for the terrible lighting in my Apt.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/CB7vYr.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnCB7vYrj)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/mwy9qG.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnmwy9qGj)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/NCty3b.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnNCty3bj)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/4zIMdW.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/po4zIMdWj)

All components fit nicely on the rods after a little touchup. Connectors, slide switch, led holders, switches etc all fit like a glove. I did goof on the seat for the sound board and forgot to move a couple of walls back after fiddling with them in 3D. So I'll have to do a little more altering for that. Don't think it will be too tough. After that I'll treat the core with some mystery mix to get a nice finish. Then try to figure out how to get some tiny tiny pins in the lid so I can make it functional. If that fails, the lid still snaps into place nicely, so no worries there. I'll get pics up of the process once I dive in.

Custom parts for the outside of the hilt were ordered this week too!

[NanoRex]

:O Looks awesome! I love the bronze-plated steel (if that's what it is). Have you considered painting some of the little grooves to break up the solid finish?

[darth_chasm]

Psst...


Have you considered painting some of the little grooves to break up the solid finish?


After that I'll treat the core with some mystery mix to get a nice finish. ;)

[ColdVizjerei]

This sneak peak makes me super hyped to see the end result!

[NanoRex]

Psst...



;)


Didn't think that that's what you meant by "mystery mix" ;)

[darth_chasm]

Gotcha. Yeah, it will look totally different once it's done. I did the print in black to get a nice base color upon which I'll do a few things to make it more visually interesting. Oh and yeah, that's bronze plated stainless steel. I'm actually very pleased with how the metal came out. You can definitely see the stepping and some imperfections in it, but I was prepared for that and it's actually what I wanted.

[Darth Vislir]

awesome my friend, that is going to be an awesome saber!!
Can't wait for the reveal. the details look great. Some dark gray model paint dry brushing can make those extra details pop, if you wanted more contrast to break up the black.

[FenixFire]

The brass coatings came out great.

[Squints]

Looks amazing sit. Can't wait to see this one finished

How did the metal printing come out? Is it grainy or smooth ?

[rlobrecht]

Absolutely fantastic. That looks great.

[darth_chasm]

How did the metal printing come out? Is it grainy or smooth ?

I wouldn't call it grainy, but definitely not smooth or even. It has texture for sure. Easiest way to describe it is perhaps "old metal."

[NanoRex]

I wouldn't call it grainy, but definitely not smooth or even. It has texture for sure. Easiest way to describe it is perhaps "old metal."

I'm interested in seeing some better pictures of the steel later on. I'm thinking of using a steel 3D printed part for a reveal core in a build, and I'm curious to see how it might look.

[darth_chasm]

This is about the best I can do without getting out the DSLR and photo tent. Not doing that until the end.

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t649/DarthChasm/IMG_0849_zpsavricqnt.jpg (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/DarthChasm/media/IMG_0849_zpsavricqnt.jpg.html)

[Squints]

The close up is awesome I like the look of it. I wanna get one of darthryo's chambers and was wonder how the metal print would turn out

Well now I know lol

[darth_chasm]

The close up is awesome I like the look of it. I wanna get one of darthryo's chambers and was wonder how the metal print would turn out

Well now I know lol

Keep in mind this is the stainless steel. If you decide to go brass or other metals, they are done differently (mostly lost wax/investment casting) so it will probably have a different result.

[FenixFire]

Keep in mind this is the stainless steel. If you decide to go brass or other metals, they are done differently (mostly lost wax/investment casting) so it will probably have a different result.

Did they actually do it in metal sls?

[darth_chasm]

No. Its done by laying glue into the steel powder. Then the green state is infused with bronze that melts and replaces the glue.

[darth_chasm]

Got the lid working!

I drilled small pilot holes into the hinge arms and fulcrum in the lid with a #61 bit, then opened up the holes with a 1/16 bit. Once the holes were drilled, I cut some 1/8" pieces of a 3/64" brass rod to use as pins for the arms and lid. The end of the arms that go into the base of the piece snap in and function by ball and socket.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/sMOds6.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmsMOds6j)

Everything all together...

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/921/7hgsJw.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pl7hgsJwj)

Opens smoothly...

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/btYZk5.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmbtYZk5j)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/4lyDQC.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pm4lyDQCj)

Here you can see the areas in the base I had to adjust from my goof. 10 minutes with the xacto and dremel and the board fits nice and snug. Also had to dremel out a bit of the inside of the lid to accommodate the capacitor on the Prizm. I couldn't do that in the model because it wouldn't pass the design checks for production. I'll touch up the white areas so they don't look so bad.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/5nBOV6.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pn5nBOV6j)

Thats it for now. I have some finishing supplies on the way. I'll update once I've gotten the finish the way I want.

[NanoRex]

That's freaking awesome.

[Hermitjensen]

agreed that thing is amazing!

[snilam]

I'm usually not a fan of printed chassis. But this my friend, is on another level! I'm looking forward to the completed build!

[darth_chasm]

Thanks guys. I'm really digging the way it's coming together.


I'm usually not a fan of printed chassis. But this my friend, is on another level! I'm looking forward to the completed build!

Hopefully with the things I have planned it'll be hard to tell it was printed :) Fingers crossed that they work out.

[darth_chasm]

Who says you can't turn plastic into metal? Not this guy. I got the midas touch.

Still have the end cap to do and a little more weathering. I may add some verdigris as well, not sure yet. But here she is...

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/5nBOV6.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pn5nBOV6j)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/921/nNY1bg.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plnNY1bgj)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/DuNfmF.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnDuNfmFj)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/wu3vOy.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/powu3vOyj)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/fl76e4.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmfl76e4j)

And for all the skeptics out there, no it's not paint. Yes it's really metal.

https://youtu.be/92s7I1pcadc

[Hermitjensen]

Dude...i wish you could see my face right now...my mouth is not closing.
That is a work of art! It looks like it was pulled from the dirt of Tython, or from the ruins of the Jedi temple, etc,etc you get the point lol It looks absolutely amazing, cant wait to see how this one turns out when completed :D keep up the awesome work!

[NanoRex]

Holy crap...I'm not sure my mind can be blown any more than this.

[Squints]

Mind blown!!!!

I'm gonna need to know how you did that...cuz that's a game changer.
That's why I keep changing my chassis design due to rigidity issues

[sks1138]

Wow!! That's coming along nicely. If I sent you some chunks of plastic can you make me some gold bricks.

[Generic Jedi]

That. Is. Awesome!

[atomsk]

dang. plated even? that is fantastic.
hmm.. or is it foiled? cant tell. looks great either way man.

[CET]

Nice work! What's your process?

[Greenie]

That's coming on nicely. Gonna be an awesome reveal. Excellent work as always sir! :mrgreen:

[FenixFire]

NICE WORK! Love the special sauce, tuned out great!

[Mineral]

Like a shiny new (actual copper) penny!

[darth_chasm]

Thanks for the kind words all. I'm really happy you guys like it! Trust me when I say those photos don't do it justice.

As for process or what it is etc., thats one of maybe two things I'm not going to outline in this build. It was a lot of research and experimenting, so I'd rather people do the work to figure it out. A magician has to keep some secrets right?


Wow!! That's coming along nicely. If I sent you some chunks of plastic can you make me some gold bricks.

Probably, but I doubt they'd be worth their weight in gold ;)

[darth_chasm]

Work on the core continues.

For now, I am focusing on the crystal chamber part. Specifically the piping and little accent pieces. I'll give an update on the actual crystal set up in a later post. If you remember from an earlier post, I decided I was going to give some coiled wire a try to see how it looked and I have to say, I'm pretty pleased with the outcome.

PREPPING THE COILS: This is a pretty easy process but does take some getting used to and a steady hand.

- First, you select the size rod you need for the desired coil ID. If you want to get super crazy with spacing and planning you can take the diameter of the wire you are coiling, multiply that by 2 and add that to the ID and you have your coil's OD.

-After you've selected the rod you want, chuck it up in your Dremel or hand drill. I chose the Dremel mounted in a vise, it's a little easier this way.

-Once your rod is in the Dremel, stick the end of your wire between two of the jaws of the chuck and bend it toward you. Then grab the wire with your forefinger and thumb and hold it firmly, but not too tight with your forefinger up against the rod. Make sure your Dremel or drill are on a low setting.

-Turn on the Dremel/drill and as the wire coils on the rod, move your hand along the length of the rod. Go too fast and you'll get gaps in the coils. Go too slow and the wire will begin to coil backwards over itself. Gaps are much easier to fix than overlapping. After a little practice you should be able to get some nice coils made.

Below, you'll see I've done several different sizes in varying colors.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/OOkWn9.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poOOkWn9j)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/921/DhXJvt.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plDhXJvtj)

PREPPING THE ROD:

To create some depth and interest, I decided to give a selection of the piping some bends.

-First cut your rod a bit longer than you need as bending it will take some of that length away. And, you can always trim the ends once your bends are in place.

-Then, bend as desired with your chosen tool. I use a wire bending jig that I picked up at the art store for maybe $7, but you can use anything you like, like pliers, table, etc. If you want precise angles, you can use 30/60 and or 45/90 triangles to help out. I chose to freehand.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/921/GF7VRW.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plGF7VRWj)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/KM8iOo.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmKM8iOoj)

Once these two steps are done, all you have to do is slip the coil on the rod and you're good. Some twisting may help when going over the angles in the rod. In this pic, you'll notice some little bits and bobs I picked up at the art supply. I used these in place of the little scale hardware I had planned. I ended up dropping and loosing a few and they're not cheap, so I went another route which you'll see below.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/921/oF79oS.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ploF79oSj)

Some of my coils, especially the brass, were a little too shiny for my liking. I chose to weather them a little with some Rub 'N Buff.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/shFB2M.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmshFB2Mj)

Here are a few pics of some of the pieces installed. I planned ahead and placed divots in the models so that everything can be sandwiched between the two chamber ends. This way there is no gluing/etc. and everything can come apart nicely if needed.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/921/1PO1TD.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pl1PO1TDj)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/AB9wbO.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poAB9wbOj)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/921/aEPMuQ.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plaEPMuQj)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/1moPoP.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pm1moPoPj)

Here you can see where I'm using some of those little jewelry pieces. You can also see I painted the inside of the board case to match the exterior. This way it looks uniform, but the interior remains non-conductive.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/921/aEPMuQ.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plaEPMuQj)

And last, just a little peak at the led module which came in yesterday. It fits so snug I can ditch the set screw I had planned.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/921/Tw3HrK.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plTw3HrKj)

Now I'll be cutting my crystals to size and figuring out some mounting hardware for them and the leds. Stay tuned!

[Hermitjensen]

once again, im in awe of the beauty of your work. I cant imagine it getting any better but im only guessing that you are no where near done with this, so really looking for each and every update :D

[Silver Serpent]

It's the little details that set a good saber apart from a great saber. You have a LOT of little details. I'm very interested to see where this ends up. I'm sure it'll be amazing!

[CET]

Beautiful work

[SPACEMONKEY1]

Stunning darth_chasm!!!! It looks absolutely amazing man!!!

[NanoRex]

That wire coil technique turned out very well. I'll be looking at using that for future builds :)

[Greenie]

DUDE!!!! Everything has already been said but as always, I'm loving your work. I suspect you have more time available to you than my wife and kids will allow me. ;) My progress is slow, so your continuous updates and quality work are annoying. LOL ;)

AWESOME! :mrgreen:

[darth_chasm]

Thanks guys. Forgot to mention that my hilt parts are on the way...can't wait to see the awesome job I know Tim and Ace have done!!


That wire coil technique turned out very well. I'll be looking at using that for future builds :)

By all means! It'll be nice to see the idea in different set-ups.


DUDE!!!! Everything has already been said but as always, I'm loving your work. I suspect you have more time available to you than my wife and kids will allow me. ;) My progress is slow, so your continuous updates and quality work are annoying. LOL ;)

AWESOME! :mrgreen:

Hahah... Admittedly, probably too much time on my hands. Recently, my days have been split between job hunting/interviewing and saber building.

[Kreyhn]

Your chassis is looking absolutely stunning. I feel a little bit ghetto with my PVC and sculpey methods of planning, but I do love watching your updates here nonetheless. You continue to inspire!

[darth_chasm]

Not going to say anything in this post. I will let the work of TCSS speak for itself!

The only pic I have left :(

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/rjfSWg.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmrjfSWgj)

[NanoRex]

Wow, that hilt looks absolutely incredible! Kudos to Tim and Ace. Now I'm doubly looking forward to receiving my customized parts :)

That is black chrome powder coating, right?

[Greenie]

That is gorgeous!! Love that design DC :mrgreen:

[darth_chasm]

No, just the lighting here. Just the plain aluminum for now.

[Generic Jedi]

Beautiful hilt...awesome chassis...I can't wait to see this one completed!

[NanoRex]

No, just the lighting here. Just the plain aluminum for now.

Are you serious? That's some crazy lighting you have going on. I was certain it had been coated haha

[darth_chasm]

Updated the post with another pic on a dark background.

[Noyl Wendor]

Ok that's awesome. I really dig that

[Mineral]

Will you have a not-round blade coming out of your not-round emitter?

[Hermitjensen]

I believe it is round (looking down on it) but its curved when you look from the side.

Looks great btw, cant wait to see the finished product. Really like the look of the hilt.

[darth_chasm]

^^ This :)

[darth_chasm]

Goofed on a couple of pieces totaling 0.25" in miscalculations, so reprinting those two pieces. But...having the extra pieces allows me to experiment a little with some patina.

Any opinions? I rather like it and I am going for something very old looking, so this seems to give that impression.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/OA5oqV.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmOA5oqVj)

[xl97]

Looks old/weathered and tarnished to me!

So I say good job!

this style of weathering actually HELPS the 3D printed finished IMHO.. usually I'm not a fan of the 'bumpy' finish from most 3D parts.. (better than layer/lines though!)

[NanoRex]

I think that gives the desired effect quite well. Although I tend to cringe when people do heavy weathering :P

[Generic Jedi]

That looks fantastic, Chasm!

[snilam]

that looks real good. I like that patina look on it. can't wait to see the finished product!

[Hermitjensen]

Further adds to my description awhile back saying this this looks like it was pulled out of a ruin or the ground lol
Excellent work as always.

[darth_chasm]

Further adds to my description awhile back saying this this looks like it was pulled out of a ruin or the ground lol
Excellent work as always.

It does! And xl97 hit it on the head. Going into this I knew I had to do something to combat the 3D print look. Rather than try to sand and polish the pieces with an expected minimal result I decided to go with the texture and make it work for me. Hence the evolution of the "old" saber. Something dug up from the Chasm ;)

[Denz]

Spectacular work! It is clear that you have put a lot of thought into this build.

Thanks for sharing your build progress.

I'm very impressed!

-Denzil

[darth_chasm]

Thanks all.

Finshed up all the pieces for the core (still deciding on patina, but looks likely I'll add it). Everything aside from the battery fits nicely. I just have to dremel out a little bit of space in the end cap to make it fit.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/921/nNY1bg.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plnNY1bgj)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/DuNfmF.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnDuNfmFj)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/wu3vOy.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/powu3vOyj)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/fl76e4.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pmfl76e4j)


***Other pics missing***

[ColdVizjerei]

I...can't handle the awesomeness!!! So much detail!

The Vader inspired wires are a really nice touch :D

[Greenie]

Dude ! I wanna see this finished. It gets better with each update :)
Nice touch with the exposed wires.

[Generic Jedi]

That saber is awsome! Even without the shroud, just awesome!

[SPACEMONKEY1]

Great job dc!!! Can't wait to see this one completed.

[xl97]

Just a tip/suggestion.
Siunce you seem to be going down more of the advanced electronics path (hot air re-flowing)..

I suggest investing in a $17 dollar toaster oven from wal-mart (or somewhere)

re-flows great... and you dont have to worry about the 'air pressure' moving your parts around.

(its how I bake all my stuff) :)

[darth_chasm]

Just a tip/suggestion.
Siunce you seem to be going down more of the advanced electronics path (hot air re-flowing)..

I suggest investing in a $17 dollar toaster oven from wal-mart (or somewhere)

re-flows great... and you dont have to worry about the 'air pressure' moving your parts around.

(its how I bake all my stuff) :)

Thank you sir. Now on the list of things needed! I did kind of hack my way through it. I used a heat gun and heated from the bottom trying to reduce the amount of direct air flow. I probably didn't have the board as level as it should have been either.

[snilam]

dude I'm trying to avoid your thread because I really want to see it all finished without spoilers but now and then I check in anyways. Its turning out excellent!

[Silver Serpent]

Just a tip/suggestion.
Siunce you seem to be going down more of the advanced electronics path (hot air re-flowing)..

I suggest investing in a $17 dollar toaster oven from wal-mart (or somewhere)

re-flows great... and you dont have to worry about the 'air pressure' moving your parts around.

(its how I bake all my stuff) :)

Wait, what? You can use toaster ovens as reflow ovens too? All this time I've only been using mine for paint.

*gears start turning*

[xl97]

yep..

you can get fancy and rig them up with temp controls and temp profiles..

or just 'wing it'.. for mine it usually need it around the 225 mark or so.. and roughly 3-5 minutes..

you'll see the solder paste get grey and 'dry' looking.. RIGHT before it flows and turns silver..

when that happens.. turn off oven and let sit until ready to pick up.


*** (do NOT use it for cooking ANY FOOD AT ALL once used for re-flowing solder paste)

[Kreyhn]

As a padawan viewing you build your fourth lightsaber, I must admit to my feeling of a lack of meaningful things to contribute and to my feeling of awe mixed with admiration. Since I certainly don't see myself in any position to give you any tips or hints, I'll simply say: Your work so far is incredible, and the lightsaber you are crafting is "most impressive".

[darth_chasm]

dude I'm trying to avoid your thread because I really want to see it all finished without spoilers but now and then I check in anyways. Its turning out excellent!

Haha best comment thus far. This isn't the post you're looking for. Move along. Move along.


As a padawan viewing you build your fourth lightsaber, I must admit to my feeling of a lack of meaningful things to contribute and to my feeling of awe mixed with admiration. Since I certainly don't see myself in any position to give you any tips or hints, I'll simply say: Your work so far is incredible, and the lightsaber you are crafting is "most impressive".

Thank you sir. I'm glad you're enjoying it. You yourself have a pretty cool thing going on with your first. I saw you're messing around with Illustrator. I've been using it and other software for about 20 years, 15 professionally. If you have any questions or need any advise feel free to PM me.

[darth_chasm]

Spent the past week or so working on my switch design. A lot of trial and error to get it working exactly right but I finally came up with a solid mechanism. I had Tim mill some slots and holes in one of the hilt pieces where the buttons would go. The plan was to fill those slots with inserts that I could then insert screws into to act as the switch actuators. In order for the core to be removable, the inserts and screws had to pretty much sit flush with the ID of the hilt and conversely, the switches had to sit flush with the core/chassis.

The project began with cutting and filing some brass bar stock to size and shape.

***Missing***

Then I had to add a little bit of support to the insert on the bottom side where it inserts into the wall of the hilt. After many failed experiments, I ground down the points and flats on a 4-40 nut, stripped the threads with a 1/8th bit for the 4-40 screw to freely move and finally soldered the "washer" to the brass insert.

***Missing***

After that, I drilled a countersink into the insert so the screw could sit flush inside it. This will help with accidental activation of the switches.

***Missing***

The last part of the actuator assembly was simply another 4-40 nut ground down and placed onto the end of the screw. This provides plenty of surface area to make contact with the switch. The screw head and threads were also cut and ground down to size.

***Missing***

There is just enough play for the screw and nut to make contact with the switch and activate it.

Probably the easiest part was grinding down the plastic actuator on the switch to make it flush with the chassis.

***Missing***

Now I just have to figure out how to keep the inserts in the slots. Im leaning toward some type of adhesive.

[CET]

That's freakin sweet man!

[Greenie]

Clever, very clever. ;). This is the bit I'm still figuring out for my latest project. Yeah, I'm working on a full core too, and your build log makes great reading. Nice work DC. :mrgreen:

[darth_chasm]

Clever, very clever. ;). This is the bit I'm still figuring out for my latest project. Yeah, I'm working on a full core too, and your build log makes great reading. Nice work DC. :mrgreen:

Oh man, can't wait to see what you have cooking. It'll be removable too? The buttons were definitely a brain teaser for a while there. I had the general idea the whole time. Figuring out the process of how to put it all together was the challenge. I'm sure you'll come up with something ingenious.

[MasterStoddard]

The core you came up with is looking amazing as heck. I wish I had a way to have something like this in my Outcast Saber to make it look even better.

[darth_chasm]

The core you came up with is looking amazing as heck. I wish I had a way to have something like this in my Outcast Saber to make it look even better.

Thank you!

Lost a little steam for a while but I'm back at it. I started to age the hilt a bit. This MAY be the end of the aging and if it is, I'll be moving onto completing some of the greebles I have planned.

The aging process was pretty straight forward. Nothing too fancy. I first etched the entire hilt to get a nice rough surface overall that would hold patina well. Then I used a ball-peen hammer to get the divots and small nicks and the edge of some regular and needle files to get the larger gashes and scratches. Once I got the marring the way I wanted it I hit the whole thing with Aluminum Black. After the AB set in I spun the hilt on the drill to sand away most of the patina leaving all the recessed areas darker...perfect for what I was trying to achieve. I used some verdigris patina solution and artist ink on the copper thumb screw and switches.

I really like how it came out. It looks old, but like it was cleaned up as best as possible.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/923/8KwQVt.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pn8KwQVtj)

[NanoRex]

Looks great! No plans for anodizing this one then?

[darth_chasm]

Looks great! No plans for anodizing this one then?

Thanks. Not on this one. I've decided to do another "clean" version down the road with a new idea for the core I've been pondering.

[Kreyhn]

O.O

This lightsaber is wonderful to watch develop. I am fascinated by the blade screw. You said it was copper, is that a custom part? (is that an appropriate question to ask in the forums?) Did you anodize the steel one in copper?

[darth_chasm]

O.O

This lightsaber is wonderful to watch develop. I am fascinated by the blade screw. You said it was copper, is that a custom part? (is that an appropriate question to ask in the forums?) Did you anodize the steel one in copper?

It's copper plated steel. Tattoo machine supply shops have great little greebles.

[darth_chasm]

I got most of the work done on the sleeve/control box today. I still have some clean up to do on the pieces and a bit of weathering to make it all match up with the hilt. I'd like to get a 1.5" sanding drum so I can get the box to sit a little more flush with the circumference of the sleeve. And, there are still a few design ideas I'm debating.

Sorry, I didn't get any pics of the progress on this. I just got so engrossed I forgot. The process was pretty simple. No fancy Jedi tricks here. I first cut the brass tube to a length equal to the large part of the handle between the grooves. Then I trimmed a piece of copper sheet to the same length and wrapped it around the brass. You may remember a few posts back I showed a preliminary test of it. Once those pieces were cut and shaped, I put them on one of my sacrificial pieces and drilled all the holes.

Next was the box. I cut a piece of 0.5" x 0.25" copper bar to length then spent the good part of a few hours shaping the radius. I did this with my half round file and some sand paper wrapped around my sacrificial piece. Last I drilled the holes to line up with the ones in the sleeves.

Here is the "contraption" mocked up on my spare. I haven't drilled any holes into the hilt yet.

***Missing***

And here it is loosely mocked up on the hilt.

***Missing***

I really like how it turned out. It harkens back to the OT and I think it adds to the intended old age look.

[FenixFire]

Dang, every time I turn around I am more jealous of your build!

BTW...the SLA built part in my sons CC...already shattered, just from the residual pressure of the set screws. My disapproval of photo-polymer based prototyping for anything even slightly functional still stands. Looks like ill be bronzed steel printing.

[darth_chasm]

That sinks, sorry to hear it. I was a little worried about that and decided to do a reverse set screw so the pressure is more on the hilt. I'll post pics when that part of the build comes along.

[darth_chasm]

I was looking for a way to get reddish brown, rust-like markings on the hilt that looked natural not painted. I was a little stumped until I began weathering the control box and sleeve while it was still on the hilt and an interesting thing happened. The patina solution for brass, copper, bronze had a rust-like effect on the aluminum. Soooo, I got what I was looking for unexpectedly.

I then began to apply the solution all over. Application was a mix of dabbing a cotton swap, dripping the solution and a bit of flick stippling. I made sure to keep the areas where hands go a little lighter in the weathering to make it look a little more natural and used. As if the use has worn some of that gunk away. The result is AWESOME!. This thing now looks like a long lost corroded treasure that just got dug up.

***Missing***

And here is the end cap I'll be using for the pommel. In a bit I'll be adding a custom d-ring to it.

***Missing***

[darth_chasm]

In the homestretch now. A few more things to do before I can wire this thing up and cross my fingers that everything lights up :shock:

I reached a final look for the weathering on the hilt. Unfortunately, after 24hrs the rust like color I got earlier turned very pale with a bunch of white crust so that had to go. I resolved to use some of my Rub N Buff which actually turned out ok.

I drilled and taped the holes for the thumb screws in the sleeve, removed the copper box and replaced it with a little lever. I liked the look of the box, but it was just too bulky for what I wanted.

I added a little greeble to the ribbed section of the emitter just to create a little more character. This also will hold the led module in place. I decided to not have it fully in the plastic holder I printed. Don't know why, just wasn't comfortable with that set up. Plus it gives me a little more room for resistors.

I drilled and tapped the chassis and am using a 6-32 set screw in reverse to hold the chassis in the hilt. Also drilled a small hole in the hilt for the hex key.

Finally got the crystal chamber fully assembled and set. I reconfigured a few things, added some, took some away. Essentially the same aesthetic, just a different arrangement.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/cIcjik.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pocIcjikj)

Now this list is probably more for me than anyone reading but here goes.

Still need...
- Clear Coat Hilt
- Cut slots in sleeve where additional screws were. They were not needed and rather than cut new metal I will cut slots for looks.
- Grind down all screws going into hilt.
- Make tubes for crystal chamber wiring. Not doing the coils for this. I thought it would be too many with the ones that are in there already.
- Make D-Ring and attachment.
- Glue button inserts in.
- Wire this baby up.

[Hermitjensen]

my god man this thing gets more and more beautiful with every update.
When i saw that first picture I though to myself "that thing must weigh a ton" then remembered its 3D printed material, fooling my brain there DC lol
cant wait to see what else you do to this, almost more then wanting to build my own :D

[NanoRex]

Wow, that looks phenomenal DC.

[FenixFire]

So when you coming to STL to finish up mine?

[darth_chasm]

Thanks guys.


So when you coming to STL to finish up mine?

Sounds like fun.

[RevanReborn]

Holy cow dude! Thanks for sharing these methods/ ideas etc.- loving the coil and rod, that just looks so amazing, I def wanna experiment with that. Stellar work all around, beyond impressive :).

[darth_chasm]

Holy cow dude! Thanks for sharing these methods/ ideas etc.- loving the coil and rod, that just looks so amazing, I def wanna experiment with that. Stellar work all around, beyond impressive :).

Thanks and no problem. I'm glad some people are finding the thread useful. No sense in doing it if not ;)

[FenixFire]

Thanks and no problem. I'm glad some people are finding the thread useful. No sense in doing it if not ;)

Useful...it's like the Holy Grail of how to build a killer saber. It is a work of art my friend, need to walk it over to the MoMA and tell them you found their next piece!

[darth_chasm]

Useful...it's like the Holy Grail of how to build a killer saber. It is a work of art my friend, need to walk it over to the MoMA and tell them you found their next piece!

Thank you sir. I've had fun building it which probably lends to how it's come out. :)

[darth_chasm]

As a professional designer I can tell you that 80% of the creative process is changing your mind...and changing it again...and again. So yeah, I've changed my mind again.

The coiled tubes for the wiring turned out to not be too much with the other coils, so I went for it and it all looks quite nice together. I added some brass sleeves to create a little differentiation. The openings in the sleeves were done with the triangle jeweler's file and then the were cut at 45 degrees with a razor saw in a small hobby miter box.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/cIcjik.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pocIcjikj)

And here's some eye candy of the lighting. I really like all the little areas the light shines through.

***Missing***

[rlobrecht]

Amazing work.

[CET]

That is some great work!

[FenixFire]

It's not changing your mind...you got to keep the smoke and mirrors going my friend...its called "Revisions!" Client meetings 101--never use "I was thinking" or "I changed my mind and went...." ;)

[darth_chasm]

Oy, this should be fun :|

***Missing***

[FenixFire]

Ok...no longer envious!

[NanoRex]

Now this is where the cram-fu really begins...

[darth_chasm]

Haha. Well, some of those wires are being combined and essentially halved in quantity. It looks scarier than it is... I think

[ColdVizjerei]

I believe in you!
Can't wait to see it all wired up :D

[darth_chasm]

Well, not too thrilled with the performance of my mini speaker (not TCSS). So it looks like back to the drawing board for at least the top part of the core. :(

[FenixFire]

Did you test it in the hilt? Mini-Speakers really need a good resonance chamber to create the deeper notes. Especially 20 mm and smaller, even more so if it is a piezoelectric drive instead of a magnetic drive. With a piezo the aluminum in the hilt may give it a metallic sound if there is any vibration in the parts, but since they are MHS threaded parts that should be minimal.

[darth_chasm]

Yeah, tested it in hilt. Its magnet driven, very similar to the TCSS one. Just does not produce the volume I want.

[FenixFire]

Well then it looks like another "Revision" is needed;)

[darth_chasm]

Yeah I think so. Here's a couple examples.

No handle


https://vimeo.com/164479378

[darth_chasm]

Sorry for double post. Can only do one vide per post.

With handle


https://vimeo.com/164479377

[Greenie]

Dude, I'm not seeing any vids.

[darth_chasm]

Dude, I'm not seeing any vids.

You're probably on mobile. You may need to login on a desktop.

[Greenie]

You're probably on mobile. You may need to login on a desktop.

I shall do that, sir. When I'm not at work. ;)

[Greenie]

Sorry for the double post. Remembered to check the vids. Now that seems fairly loud to me but I guess, in person, it may not sound the same as a recording. If it's not as you would like, you gotta revise or redo cos it will bug you. Plus this is one hell of a build and I suspect it's perfection all the way with you ;)

[darth_chasm]

Sorry for the double post. Remembered to check the vids. Now that seems fairly loud to me but I guess, in person, it may not sound the same as a recording. If it's not as you would like, you gotta revise or redo cos it will bug you. Plus this is one hell of a build and I suspect it's perfection all the way with you ;)

The hums and clashes aren't too bad. A little lower than I would like. The area it really fails is swings. Wasn't able to get them in the vid but they are barely audible.

My speaker holder should be here tomorrow so we shall see if the larger speaker helps. I'll post another video for comparison.

[PhoenixHawk]

Most impressive...like others have said already, a proper speaker chamber is needed.
I have been following your build. Having a small "posts" number...(I don't post that much)...I just read. And why repeat what others are already say'in. :wink: Anyways your build is most impressive indeed....love all aspects of what you have done(no need in listing them...others already have). I have wanted a 3D printer for years to do what you have done here, but the bloody things cost an arm and a leg..i.e. a small fortune...lol. I to am beginning the process of building my own saber...will take pic's when i start.

[darth_chasm]

Thanks bud. Glad you're enjoying the build. All the kind compliments just make me want to make it even better.

The speaker issues wasn't really a resonance chamber. There's plenty. Just personal preference more than anything. I have the new speaker and am much more pleased. Now I can finally map out the sound vents and get drilling:)

I got all the 3D stuff done from a service that produces SLS parts, so they're a little better resolution than a home printer that uses filament. But no doubt, with a little elbow grease and some acetone perhaps, you can get pretty decent parts from a home printer. The one thing I would worry about is the structural integrity of those parts. Especially with things like set screws etc.

Good luck with you build. I'll be sure to check it out.

[darth_chasm]

So close to the end!

Finished up the pommel. I used a couple of 16 gauge copper jewelry disc blanks, 1" washer, brass plated steel thumb screw and nut. I soldered the washer to one of the discs. The washer fits snugly into the open end of the pommel and holds everything in place. Then I drilled the two discs for the screw to pass through. I cut a strip of copper and formed it to act as the keep for the ring. And finally, formed the ring. I added a bit of twist to the ring to keep it from flopping around and making too much noise.

***Missing***

I felt the clamp I had on the ribbed section looked a little too common and of "our world" so I "revised" it by cutting a little piece of copper sheet, drilling and forming it to some thing I liked. Then I repurposed one of the button inserts I goofed on previously to act as a washer. I like this so much better.

***Missing***

Here's a little shot of the weathering in progress.

***Missing***

A while back I changed my plan to use a micro switch and installed a 1.35mm recharge port instead. I am using a bit of pen tube and a small screw inserted in one end as the kill key.

***Missing***

Lastly, I replaced the mini speaker with a 28mm premium. Much happier with this. Without going into too much detail, using the 28mm speaker makes it impossible to make the core fully removable. Im ok with that. Rather have it sound good than try to make a gimmick work.

[darth_chasm]

Last Update to the build log. Thank God, right? Anyway, no more major build things to show. Just some final touches then I'll post some beauty shots in the gallery and hopefully a video too.

Cut the sound vents and inserted the copper mesh. Two simple holes drilled then joined with small files. The mesh was a little difficult at first, but after a few tries I figured out the best way to go about it. I cut it to a rough pill shape slightly larger than the holes. Then used some bent brass rod and my fingers to form it in the hole on the outside of the hilt first. Once the basic shape was formed, I inserted the mesh from the inside and got it to a point where it filled the entire hole nicely. Last, I dabbed some super glue around the inside of the holes and slid the mesh into place.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/1R3BeF.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/po1R3BeFj)

So that's it for the build updates. I've learned a lot from this build and hope some others have as well. It has also given me a bunch of new ideas which I can't wait to start playing around with.

If there's anything you're interested in that I may not have covered fully or breezed over, please feel free to drop a comment or PM me. Happy to talk about most of what I've done. And again, thanks for all the positive feedback. It was really motivating and pushed me to make this the best that my abilities and resources allowed.


Gallery Pics

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?20108-DCLS-004-Reveal-Saber&highlight=dcls-004

[PhoenixHawk]

Looks real good bro...can't wait to see it all together glowing an humming and all that fun stuff. Can't start on my saber till they move to the new shop and get my saber parts back in stock so i can start building my dream saber...lol.

[Kreyhn]

What a place to be with your saber, and how incredible a job you've done with everything. I've absolutely loved following your build; you've come up with some quite creative ways of putting together this whole thing and making it a saber that truly stands out. I've even garnered a little inspiration from your doings. Thanks for sharing your process with us, Darth Chasm!

[RevanReborn]

Wow, DC! I think this has got to be the most inspirational thread I've ever followed :). Amazing work. I'm relatively new to the scene and I'm really looking to get into this style of building- eventually wanna achieve that wow factor, and amazing level of detail that you and guys like harp etc. do so well- VERY cool to be able to see all this. Thanks for keeping this going.

[darth_chasm]

Wow, DC! I think this has got to be the most inspirational thread I've ever followed :). Amazing work. I'm relatively new to the scene and I'm really looking to get into this style of building- eventually wanna achieve that wow factor, and amazing level of detail that you and guys like harp etc. do so well- VERY cool to be able to see all this. Thanks for keeping this going.

No problem. Glad you've found it useful. I have to say, I can only hope to be half as good as harp someday. He's a true master, I'm but the learner :).

[SPACEMONKEY1]

DC, this looks so amazing man!!! Great work!!! Look forward to seeing what you create in the future.

[jbkuma]

This is a thing of beauty.

[Anoril]

Wow!

I'm making a saber and I hope I can achieve something as beautiful and detailed as your incredible work! (But I know I won't ;) )

[darth_chasm]

Wow!

I'm making a saber and I hope I can achieve something as beautiful and detailed as your incredible work! (But I know I won't ;) )

Thanks! I am sure your build will be epic.

[darth_chasm]

Build log updated as best I can. Photobucket did a real job on us. I lost a ton of photos for this build which really pains me and I know upset a few people who enjoyed this build log. I've updated it the best I could. Sorry its not more complete.


http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?19220-DCLS-004-Build-Log&p=251315&viewfull=1#post251315

[Seth Skywalker]

Now that saber, is awesome! I never got to see it before, thanks to photobucket ( screw photobucket!:evil:), but this saber is beyond words. You sir, are inspiring me.

[Tom Tilmon]

006 was absolutely SICK.