Planning out my wiring, need a bit of help...

[JTP]

This will be my first saber so please excuse any ignorance on my part. I have a few parts coming in the mail and many more to purchase yet so if this doesn't work, no big deal, I'll just go back to my original plan. I am looking to wire a saber that has a 4AA pack (6V) powering a GGW CopperNova and a momentary switch with the green LED ring. I will also be incorporating a momentary-to-latching converter in this saber.

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The first image I took from this forum long ago and seemed to me to be my best bet to build the saber that I wanted, the only issue is that it uses a single LED setup which comes from CSS's completed heatsink module product. While I'm perfectly okay using that product, I would like to see my blade with a bit of a stronger green. From what I've read, using a GGW will give me the result I'm looking for.

The second image that I made in autodesk, then exported to adobe PDF, then shamelessly screenshotted is my new idea that I'd like to implement. It is completely identical to the original plan except for the extra LEDs. I'm afraid I am stuck on how to wire the two greens and the white to the buckpuck. I'm not even certain that I am able to do so, even if I use the 6-wire version. Additionally, would I even have enough power from the 4AA pack to run this setup?

What it all boils down to is the blade LED. I need to get those wires to the momentary-to-latching converter somehow so that I can use the switch I want. I would prefer to use a buckpuck if possible as that is much simpler for me, if not, I'll need a bit of info on how else to tackle this. If there is any way to accomplish this, I would greatly appreciate the insight.

[Generic Jedi]

I think you can wire both green LEDs in series, if you use a 7.4 volt li-ion battery pack. Solder the positive wire from the buckpuck to the positive pad of the first LED. The negative pad of the first LED is soldered to the positive pad of the second led. The negative pad of the second LED gets the negative wire from the buckpuck.

The forward voltage for a green Cree LED is 3.58 volts, so you need at least 7.16 volts to power two of them in series.

[JTP]

I see, thank you for the reply! So it would look something like this? 12764

In this instance, I would leave the white LED out of the equation; just not wire it at all, correct? A quick followup question, does having the white LED powered give any beneficial effects, or would it just wash out the purity of the two greens? Again, pardon any ignorance on my part.

[Silver Serpent]

You have it correct.

The white LED can be ignored for your build. Many people will use the white LED for the FoC (Flash on Clash) feature found on the sound boards sold at TCSS. Adding it in will lighten up the green a bit. Some people mix green+white for a color they refer to as "viridian".

[JTP]

Excellent, perhaps I'll experiment with that before I solder it. Thanks for the reply!

[JTP]

Just as a followup, say I decide in the future that I want to use a NBv2 card for sound and FoC, which can only take a power source up to 5.5v. I then would not be able to wire these LEDs in series based on what I've learned here. Doing a quick google search, I found a diagram which seems to reflect the same setup I am describing. If I should choose to do so, would I be safe following this wiring guide, or is it flawed in any way?


http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o564/Twygzz/saberwiringdiagram_zpsgk1tggex.png

[ColdVizjerei]

The tangle of blue wires all going to the board negative(1 from battery negative, 1 from switch, 1 from the power extender) is a bit confusing, so perhaps you'd want to redraw some of those lines to clear things up.

Asides from that, the rest of the diagram looks good.