First Saber Parts List

[thomasbu]

Greetings,

So I am constructing my first saber.... Here is part of my parts list

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/ViewWishlist.aspx?ViewCode=404faf3b-32e1-4881-9e0e-e76e7264c221

parts i'm getting when they are in stock:
Luxeon Rebel Star

I ordered this switch separately:
http://www.sears.com/unique-bargains-12v-green-led-light-illuminated-16mm/p-SPM7924460823

this is a stunt saber with no soundcard. I believe I have enough batteries and the resistor should be good for the illuminated switch.
What do you guys think?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Welcome to the Forums.

You will likely need some type of switch hole service for your switch, and a c-cli[p to hold your pommel insert in place. Also the switch you show might need more voltage than you think (12V). Make sure you check the specs on that switch carefully first. ;)

[thomasbu]

Okay, any recommendations for a battery pack? Should I get a different switch?

and what do you mean by a switch ole service, sorry!

I appreciate the input!

[Generic Jedi]

He meant "switch hole service" so you can attach your switch to the saber.

[thomasbu]

Ah okay,

I have the 16mm recessed hole for the saber and the switch i got is 16mm... maybe I get a new switch instead...

[Cire Yeldarb]

The Recessed Hole should fit your switch fine since they're both 16mm, but I would agree with FJK in saying double check those specs: because it may not work at the lower voltage of typical saber parts

[Generic Jedi]

A 16mm switch will fit in a 16mm switch hole, however your switch looks like one of the long style 16mm switches the store sells, so it might bottom out on the inside of the hilt. You could check out the short style 16mm switches the store sells. They will definitely fit.

[thomasbu]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

Is wiring a AV switch to a soundless saber much more complicated than the regular "Guarded" switch?

Thanks!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Not really, but you will need a latching switch (or the latching switch converter) if you are not using a sound card of some type.

[thomasbu]

Right, I read about that.

Another question, sorry guys, I had this LED sitting around, is this viable for a saber or should I go ahead and get a different one?
http://www.rapidled.com/philips-luxeon-rebel-cyan-3w-led/

Thanks again.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Right, I read about that.

Another question, sorry guys, I had this LED sitting around, is this viable for a saber or should I go ahead and get a different one?
http://www.rapidled.com/philips-luxeon-rebel-cyan-3w-led/

Thanks again.

It seems to be usable.

[BZWingZero]

It looks like a Luxeon Rebel on a different base. I have no idea on the quality of it compared to the ones you'd get from TCSS.

The CREE LEDs sold in the store are brighter.

[thomasbu]

Okay guys, Last post I swear (unless I messed this up)

Here is a list of electronics im going to use along with this led: http://www.rapidled.com/philips-luxeon-rebel-es-cyan-led/

1 of: 2.7ohm 10w resistor
1 of: 20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor
1 of: Star thermal tape pad
1 of: Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle
1 of: 1/8" Adhesive lined heatshrink tubing
1 of: MHS Heat Sink V4 (Flat Style)
2 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (White)
2 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Blue)
1 of: 2AA Battery holder
1 of: 16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary Green Dot Switch
1 of: Momentary to latching converter 2.2 to 16V

Thank you so much, I am but a simple librarian. I appreciate the help from everyone.

[Generic Jedi]

The 2.7 ohm 10 watt resistor is overkill for that LED. I wouldn't use a resistor at all. 2 AA batteries only put out 3 volts. To drive that LED at 350 mA, you need 3.05 volts.

You'll need this lens holder (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/CreeRebel-Lens-Holder-P999.aspx) to hold the lens on the LED securely.

[thomasbu]

Wouldn't you need that resistor for the switch instead? the lower resistor is for the LED.

Thanks for reminding me about the lens holder!

[Generic Jedi]

The 20mA DynaOhm is for the switch LED. You don't need a resistor for the actual switch. Just the switch LED.

[thomasbu]

Ah okay, Do you think I should switch battery packs or you think itll be fine? I appreciate your help

[Generic Jedi]

If you use a li-ion battery, you would need a resistor for your main LED, but you would get longer runtime.

[thomasbu]

Alright guys....
Here it is, thanks for the help!

http://imgur.com/a/mx8Jx

[atomsk]

nicely done! love that mhs combo. big fan of that cyan..

[thomasbu]

Thanks! I was going for a Quinlan Vos/Qui-Gon Jinn/ Kotor feel. I'm happy the thing even lights up!!

[lookinginalderaanplaces]

Hi everyone.

I am new to lightsaber building and to the forums. I was wondering if you all could help me with my electronic gut. I have my lightsaber build using instructions from http://bigyellowbox.tripod.com/, but I have no clue what parts I need for the electronic gut. I have some parts on my wishlist. They are a 12mm Anti Vandal Momentary Green Ring Switch, a Nano Biscotte Sound Module V3, a BuckPuck 1000mA 6-wire, a Luxeon Tri-Rebel Star (Green-Green-White), a MHS Heat Sink V3, and a 18deg Tri-Rebel/Cree Star Lens. What other parts would you all recommend I get? Is there any parts I should get rid of or switch since I am a beginner?

[Silver Serpent]

Welcome to the forums!

Toss the Buckpuck, since it doesn't work with the NB. The voltage requirements for the NB and Buckpuck are incompatible. Download and read the Nano Biscotte manual. When you've read it once, read it again. :)

You'll need some resistors, and an appropriate power source for your NB. A 3.7v li-ion cell is ideal. Don't forget a speaker as well.

[lookinginalderaanplaces]

Thanks.

[lookinginalderaanplaces]

Hi. This may be a stupid question, but is there any soundboard which are compatible with a buckpuck? I heard that the buckpuck is really good when it comes to allowing constant flow to the led light without the blade dimming.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Hi. This may be a stupid question, but is there any soundboard which are compatible with a buckpuck? I heard that the buckpuck is really good when it comes to allowing constant flow to the led light without the blade dimming.

No, the Soundboards don't work with a buckpuck. And depending on the board, they might have current drivers on them anyway. ;)

[lookinginalderaanplaces]

Okay. Thank you so much. This is helping me a lot.