NEED HELP 2005 MR Mace Windu Build

[morecoffeee]

Okay so i have a 2005 MR Mace Windu (Hilt Only) no speaker/battery box, nothing.

I have been wanting to add sound and a TRI CREE LED kit because i like there colors the best.

I just need help with a list of all the parts i need, i have no idea where to start, never customized or built a saber before.

[ UPDATED INFO ] +NEW PICS of Inside Hilt

Sooo for some reason i think they glued the activation switch for this hilt, don't know if i can still work with it...

I don't know what size battery/speaker box to go with the Mace Conversion Kit from TCSS :/ if you guys can help me out that would be dope

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[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Thread cleaned... Let's try this again...

[morecoffeee]

Im currently looking at the Basic Saber-build linked on your signature thing, but im still having trouble finding parts i need for a Force FX Conversion , i bought the hilt empty so i don't know what kind of electronics were inside beforehand.

there's not many threads out there that help with what im looking for

[Darth Vislir]

It's in stock too.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MR-FX-Mace-conversion-kit-P326.aspx

[morecoffeee]

It's in stock too.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MR-FX-Mace-conversion-kit-P326.aspx

I'm currently trying to figure out all the parts i need to make this hilt have sound/LED/blade , it's currently empty. I don't have any old parts to use as a reference so i dont know which "exact" parts i need :(

[Darth Vislir]

If you are trying to recreate the parts from the original mace you'll have a hard time. eBay does, once in a while, have the guts of old sabers on sale; although, they are few and far in between. The adapter that I put up, will make your saber accept a led star and a detachable 1" blade. The electronics are up to you at that point. It's whatever will fit in the hilt. I'd suggest Nbv2 sound board when it comes back in stock. Until that soundboard is available however, you can go to the custom saber shop YouTube page and learn 90% of the theory and parts needed to make your saber functional. Including how to make a purple blade by color mixing. Good luck, and may the force be with you.

[morecoffeee]

If you are trying to recreate the parts from the original mace you'll have a hard time. eBay does, once in a while, have the guts of old sabers on sale; although, they are few and far in between. The adapter that I put up, will make your saber accept a led star and a detachable 1" blade. The electronics are up to you at that point. It's whatever will fit in the hilt. I'd suggest Nbv2 sound board when it comes back in stock. Until that soundboard is available however, you can go to the custom saber shop YouTube page and learn 90% of the theory and parts needed to make your saber functional. Including how to make a purple blade by color mixing. Good luck, and may the force be with you.

Awesome!! thanks so much

[Kouri]

1" PVC pipe also slides into these MR hilts readily. Can use it to cook up a decent chassis to hold all your electronics together.

[Darth Vislir]

Just pulled the trigger on a empty Yoda hilt. I'll be in your shoes come early Jan.

[morecoffeee]

Just pulled the trigger on a empty Yoda hilt. I'll be in your shoes come early Jan.

awesomeee!! I'm still waiting for mine to arrive in the mail, but when it gets here atleast ill have an idea of what size parts i can work with :D

[Miraluka]

I'm just going to throw this out there... SF doesn't possess any special, exclusive LED colors... What they do have are inferior, outdated LEDs and inefficient optics that create very disappointing blades. Building a tri CREE module from TCSS will result in a much better looking blade. Hell, a 3W rebel produces a better looking blade than a "12W" SF LED. (That's not an exaggeration. I have photos if you want them)

All that being said... it's your saber and your decision, but you're reeaaally better off with TCSS parts.

[morecoffeee]

I'm just going to throw this out there... SF doesn't possess any special, exclusive LED colors... What they do have are inferior, outdated LEDs and inefficient optics that create very disappointing blades. Building a tri CREE module from TCSS will result in a much better looking blade. Hell, a 3W rebel produces a better looking blade than a "12W" SF LED. (That's not an exaggeration. I have photos if you want them)

All that being said... it's your saber and your decision, but you're reeaaally better off with TCSS parts.

Yeah that would be cool if you can post some photos :D

[Miraluka]

Yeah that would be cool if you can post some photos :D

SF "12W" Green and 3W Rebel Lime.

Lights on
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww48/Rikou-Namae/20150316_042439.jpg (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/Rikou-Namae/media/20150316_042439.jpg.html)

Lights off
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww48/Rikou-Namae/20150316_042454.jpg (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/Rikou-Namae/media/20150316_042454.jpg.html)

Also here is a SF "12W" Amber on the left and an amber tri CREE XP-E2 on the right.
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww48/Rikou-Namae/Amber%20Compared.jpg (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/Rikou-Namae/media/Amber%20Compared.jpg.html)

Trust me, there is really no contest.

[morecoffeee]

SF "12W" Green and 3W Rebel Lime.

Lights on
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww48/Rikou-Namae/20150316_042439.jpg (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/Rikou-Namae/media/20150316_042439.jpg.html)

Lights off
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww48/Rikou-Namae/20150316_042454.jpg (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/Rikou-Namae/media/20150316_042454.jpg.html)

Also here is a SF "12W" Amber on the left and an amber tri CREE XP-E2 on the right.
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww48/Rikou-Namae/Amber%20Compared.jpg (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/Rikou-Namae/media/Amber%20Compared.jpg.html)

Trust me, there is really no contest.

Not gonna lie, they look like real lightsabers xD

[Kouri]

Not gonna lie, they look like real lightsabers xD

Gotta love that white-blade-with-colored-aura effect you get on camera with a bright blade.

Also, if you really like the SF color blends, you can just take the color combos from his 12w, divide the die by two, and build a custom Cree with a third die open for FoC. So Yellow would be a custom Amber/Green/FoC, Arctic Blue a RoyalBlue/Green/FoC, Red a Red/Red/FoC...

[morecoffeee]

Okay so i finally got the hilt in the mail, annnnddd it's completley empty, so now i have nothing to work with, i thought it would atleast come with the original speaker box but i guess not, now i have no idea where to start, i think i should just order some parts and see if they fit?

[Darth Vislir]

Take some pictures and put them up. I haven't messed around with that particular hilt, but the basic concept should be the same. whats going to hold your led and blade and then the rest is all about cramfu. Don't buy without a plan. That's how you end up with a drawer full of miscellaneous stuff you never use.

[morecoffeee]

Take some pictures and put them up. I haven't messed around with that particular hilt, but the basic concept should be the same. whats going to hold your led and blade and then the rest is all about cramfu. Don't buy without a plan. That's how you end up with a drawer full of miscellaneous stuff you never use.

Okay just uploaded some :D

[morecoffeee]

You think something like this would work as a replacement?

~ http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHS-speaker-mount-V6-For-28mm-Speakers-P892.aspx

[Darth Vislir]

that is going to be too big i believe, you are going to probably have to measure the inner diameter and go from there. you can probably make a chassis from pvc. its cheap and you can experiment with different lengths.

this might help
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?9691-FX-Sabers-Master-List

[Kouri]

MR hilts typically have an ID of ~1.37". Chassis options are either 1" PVC (OD ~1.32") or grinding down some of the TCSS Graflex chassis discs (OD ~1.39").

I'd personally recommend the PVC route. SCH40 PVC has an ID ~1", while Class200 has an ID of ~1.18" A few wraps of tape around the pipe will give it a snug fit in the hilt. I'd recommend running a search for Madcow-styled PVC chassis. Enough room for an 18650, NBv2/v3, and the speaker just super-glues onto the end of the pipe. TCSS conversion kit takes care of the blade/LED holder.

[Darth Vislir]

MR hilts typically have an ID of ~1.37". Chassis options are either 1" PVC (OD ~1.32") or grinding down some of the TCSS Graflex chassis discs (OD ~1.39").

I'd personally recommend the PVC route. SCH40 PVC has an ID ~1", while Class200 has an ID of ~1.18" A few wraps of tape around the pipe will give it a snug fit in the hilt. I'd recommend running a search for Madcow-styled PVC chassis. Enough room for an 18650, NBv2/v3, and the speaker just super-glues onto the end of the pipe. TCSS conversion kit takes care of the blade/LED holder.

Pretty much what I had in my head, just didnt know the dimensions.

[Count Voodoo]

Also here is a SF "12W" Amber on the left and an amber tri CREE XP-E2 on the right.
http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww48/Rikou-Namae/Amber%20Compared.jpg (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/Rikou-Namae/media/Amber%20Compared.jpg.html)

Trust me, there is really no contest.

Holy Smokes I love that Amber Tri-Cree-XP-E2. is that with all three Amber dice or is that two with a FoC for the third? Very awesome!

[Miraluka]

That is all 3 amber. It was a tri I bought specifically to compare to the SF LED. Not much difference between 2 and 3 dice but either way, I don't have any photos of the tri amber with only 2 dice connected. Can't do any new comparison photos either, as I've gotten rid of all of my SF LEDs.

[Count Voodoo]

Awesome! My next build I was thinking 2 amber dice with a FoC white. Was curious how 2 dice compared. Glad to know there is not much lost. Sweet saber!