View Full Version : MR Vader: non-removable to removeable conversion?

12-21-2015, 10:04 PM
Cleaning up in my basement I've found a Master Replicas Vader model that I got in a trade long ago. Older model with the fixed blade (I'm pretty sure it's a 2005) I'm thinking of gutting it and putting the parts into a custom hilt, but I'd like to make the blade removable in the process. Anybody ever pulled this off? Or am I better off just selling it?



Jay-gon Jinn
12-22-2015, 04:08 PM
Of course people have pulled it off. ;) There is a tutorial and kit in the shop here to do it, too: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?1-05-MR-Vader-Done-amp-kits-available The Kit: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MR-or-Hasbro-FX-Vader-conversion-kit-P343.aspx

12-22-2015, 07:43 PM
Sorry I should have been more specific I guess. I want to keep the stock LED string blade, but add a plug to it so it can be removed.

I remember seeing one somewhere years ago that utilized (I think) a 3.5mm audio jack?

12-23-2015, 05:18 AM
I don't think an audio-jack would be sufficient. With the LEDs in sequence, power line, and clash sensor in the blade, you're looking at 8 wire connections that need to be made between the string blade and soundboard.

12-23-2015, 08:20 AM
8 wires? Well that's a little intimidating. An audio jack is definitely not gonna cut it. I had no idea there was any type of sensor in the blade itself. I didn't want to disassemble it until I had some definitive data, and searching has so far been fruitless. Here in this forum anyway, I haven't looked elsewhere yet. Thanks Kouri...

12-23-2015, 10:03 AM
If you were willing to rewire the soundboard, you could solder a clash sensor directly to the board, removing the need for the clash sensor lead. That leaves one positive for power the the 6 negatives for the scrolling blade.

The only other option to lower wire count is to lose the scrolling effect and wire the six negative wires together - but without the scrolling, you might as well just convert for use of a single Cree/Rebel LED.

12-24-2015, 08:51 AM
The more I learn, I'm thinking about leaving the configuration as-is and installing it in a custom hilt. I appreciate the input, thanks...

Jay-gon Jinn
12-24-2015, 11:44 AM
There were actually a few of these Vaders and the Anakins that were made directly from Master replicas with the intention of removing the original blade....depending on how early yours was made, it may have the DIN connector you'd need already installed. It would be a simple matter of removing the retaining pins that are preventing the blade from being removed.

Here's the part those older models came with:


you could try and find something like that, or change the connector to an 8 wire style plug

12-24-2015, 09:46 PM
Yeah the slothfurnace tutorial on string blades used DIN-8 connectors. I don't see why you wouldn't be able to put one on your blade. Or you could sell the Vader, take the money and try building your own blade from scratch and do it however you like!

09-14-2016, 03:49 PM
How do I get that tiny pin back in the switch box?? That washer blocks the hole no matter how hard I squeeze

Cire Yeldarb
09-15-2016, 07:13 PM
How do I get that tiny pin back in the switch box?? That washer blocks the hole no matter how hard I squeeze

Try clamping it on the sides. It is should tighten things up enough so that you can pull out and/or replace the tiny pin very easily.
Make sure you wrap the clamp with tape so you do not damage the saber finish.