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samthe0ne
12-14-2015, 01:35 AM
12567HI!

I've recently found out that the local maker-space at my regional library had a 3D-printer and a computer with Solid Works, and since Ive quite adept in Solid Works Im planning to use it to print my first lightsaber (sorry The Custom Saber Shop, Im unemployed and dont have the Money to buy a MHS-saber this time). Is there anything that I have to Think about when making this happening, except the obvious with Connection-Points, or is it just to start designing and print?
I would LOVE to get serious inputs in this matter, since Im a novice in 3D-printing :)

Yours Truly Samuel G

xl97
12-14-2015, 09:53 AM
Is there anything that I have to Think about when making this happening

IMHO.. yes, there is. I would think about where you posted this?

You come to someones 'house' (more or less).. and announce you wont be purchasing from said 'house'.. yet go on to ask for advice on how to not spend money here? (seriously?)

At this point.. this is a 3D printer question.. and advice is probably best sought elsewhere.. (like the makerspace/library of the people who run the 3D printers probably?)

worry about your models
exporting/prepping for 3D print..
and the QUALITY (resolution) of the printer you plan on using... but above all.. have some respect for the forums here that are attached to a 'store'.

(I dont think spending time, money and resources for others to go elsewhere is the goal here)

samthe0ne
12-14-2015, 10:07 AM
IMHO.. yes, there is. I would think about where you posted this?

You come to someones 'house' (more or less).. and announce you wont be purchasing from said 'house'.. yet go on to ask for advice on how to not spend money here? (seriously?)

At this point.. this is a 3D printer question.. and advice is probably best sought elsewhere.. (like the makerspace/library of the people who run the 3D printers probably?)

worry about your models
exporting/prepping for 3D print..
and the QUALITY (resolution) of the printer you plan on using... but above all.. have some respect for the forums here that are attached to a 'store'.

(I dont think spending time, money and resources for others to go elsewhere is the goal here)

well that was kind of a rude way to put it in my opinion...

1: I WILL buy a MHS saber, ASAP
2: Im adept in Solid Works and know how that program works, and therefore can design my own saber quite easy.
3: Im also adept in CNC-machining (the same principle in 3D-printing with G-codes and such) so if I had the possibility I've already done my own parts in aluminium and never searched after a Place like this at all on the internet.
4: I thought that this was an open forum for all lightsaber-lovers, and not just only for shoptalk.

I Think that I know at least 1 or 2 people on this forum that has at least concidered 3D-printing a hilt to at least see the design Before commiting to buy a saber. Now, what I wanted in this thread was to know if there were anybody that could help me a bit to make a good 3D-print and make my Dream of owning a good saber come true: I would STILL have to buy the Electronics from this Place (at least soundboard, blade and a few other small items) if I wouldn't go with HHCLS aproach and solder my own LED-string instead, which wouldnt be a too big of a problem for me, I love to build my own things.

Yours Truly Samuel G

xl97
12-14-2015, 10:27 AM
I understand.

But my point is still the same. This place (forums and store) are mostly for the parts sold here, and getting support for those parts (MHS, electronic or otherwise)..

And your point #4 is in-correct. It is NOT an open forum. It is a forum owned and operated by a person who has a store front attached to it.

It is -not- for talking about products in other places.
It is -not- for talking about other vendors. (especially those in direct conflict with the site/store)

I read your initial post as something like:


"Sorry I cant afford to buy stuff at TCSS, ... but still help me spend my time/money elsewhere."

If you have all the skill noted above, modeling, CNC..etc.. I dont quite understand why you would even go the 3D printing route.. unless it was for a internal chassis or something? I dont think you'll get any sort of decent quality for an outside/hilt piece that is done at a library type 3D printer... (but thats just my opinion.. you have the skills/experience)... quality on those type of printers would take many, many hours IMHO.. your best bet would be to get it done by a company like shapeways..etc (but thats expensive too)

if you can model it.. than your local makerspace probably has CNS lathe/mills too..

maybe that is a better [place for you to see help/advice?

Even therpf.com is better.. and more of the forum you are looking for. (open for said tech questions)


but hey, I'm not a moderator, and your post is still up/here.. you've been giving advice on where else to look.

good luck.

samthe0ne
12-14-2015, 10:45 AM
@xl97
thanks man, and ok, I can follow that Point you made. Thats quite frankly my biggest concern: that I wouldnt save any Money on 3D-printing a saber in a makerspace due to timelimits, but the thing that started to turn those Wheels in my head was that they take 0,0590 USD/gram, and that is WAY much cheaper than order 1 pommel and get it shipped to Sweden. I have a PM for you too ;)

Trhuster
12-14-2015, 11:29 AM
@xl97
thanks man, and ok, I can follow that Point you made. Thats quite frankly my biggest concern: that I wouldnt save any Money on 3D-printing a saber in a makerspace due to timelimits, but the thing that started to turn those Wheels in my head was that they take 0,0590 USD/gram, and that is WAY much cheaper than order 1 pommel and get it shipped to Sweden. I have a PM for you too ;)

Mabey i can help you out with some stuff regarding your 3d-printed saber. I see we are both from Sweden, feel free to drop a mail at trhuster@gmail.com

samthe0ne
12-14-2015, 11:37 AM
@Trhuster

Mail on the way!

Cire Yeldarb
12-14-2015, 01:48 PM
Yeah, you could definitely 3D print that (more and more people seem to be doing that lately, where the most common use for 3D printing has traditionally been chassis parts). My only concern with 3D printed hilts is their durability if one was planning on dueling with them, Especially if you are not planning on printing in Metal.

Or you could use the very traditional building material of PVC, especially if you have CNC Machining experience that may make the whole thing easier.

samthe0ne
12-14-2015, 02:00 PM
Or you could use the very traditional building material of PVC, especially if you have CNC Machining experience that may make the whole thing easier.

Yes, I do have the experience of using a CNC machine, but, since im out of work I dont have any machine to use that experience in XP. Thus, im looking for the possibilities of using a 3D-printer instead.

Cire Yeldarb
12-14-2015, 02:08 PM
Like I said, its definitely possible, people been doing it increasingly frequently lately. My only concern is hilt durability if not 3d printing in metal...

You could also do it in PVC by hand, take a look through the forums and you'll see many amazing pieces made in this manner, things you would never expect! I just mentioned CNC since you mentioned you had the experience

Mineral
12-14-2015, 02:10 PM
I 3D printed the details, pommel, shroud, switchbox, for my kid's otherwise pretty standard PVC stunt-saber (with switches, blades, and blade tips purchased from TCSS). It really improved the overall look and feel of the saber (IMHO).

The regular MakerBot filament would make brittle and breakable dueling saber bodies, but they make great detailed greeblies and ornaments. At the very least, I would recommend PVC as a blade holder. I've knocked some printed objects off of a shelf onto the tile floor, and if they have any weight to them at all, they can shatter. I would guess you'd have at least fractures after the first few blows of a saber duel.

If it's just to be pretty, then print away! Just make sure you buy the stuff you can't print from TCSS!


Yes, I do have the experience of using a CNC machine, but, since im out of work I dont have any machine to use that experience in XP. Thus, im looking for the possibilities of using a 3D-printer instead. You can cut PVC with a sharp knife and some patience :)

FenixFire
12-14-2015, 03:33 PM
As a product designer with extensive experience in prototyping and 3d printing, coming up on 15 yrs. If the printer is one of the very low-end hobby built systems like most public maker spaces I have seen, I would not attempt a hilt or blade holder. I would only attempted them on something capable of 100 micron layers or better, both for resolution and an increase in strength from my own experiences. I would also stick to printers capable of running true ABS materials over the more common PLA based materials. PLA is biodegradable and will breakdown over time especially with the bacteria and oil transfer from your hands. I have designed several PLA based pens that use that bacteria transfer as the initial phase of decomposing the material. Keep in mind even the manufacturing quality Fortus machines you get roughly 75% of the ABS's shear strength in your parts; so design accordingly. If designing a non-dueling sabre go for it. if looking to actually full speed dual...I would say good-luck.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
12-14-2015, 03:55 PM
I understand.

But my point is still the same. This place (forums and store) are mostly for the parts sold here, and getting support for those parts (MHS, electronic or otherwise)..

And your point #4 is in-correct. It is NOT an open forum. It is a forum owned and operated by a person who has a store front attached to it.

It is -not- for talking about products in other places.
It is -not- for talking about other vendors. (especially those in direct conflict with the site/store)

I read your initial post as something like:


"Sorry I cant afford to buy stuff at TCSS, ... but still help me spend my time/money elsewhere."

If you have all the skill noted above, modeling, CNC..etc.. I dont quite understand why you would even go the 3D printing route.. unless it was for a internal chassis or something? I dont think you'll get any sort of decent quality for an outside/hilt piece that is done at a library type 3D printer... (but thats just my opinion.. you have the skills/experience)... quality on those type of printers would take many, many hours IMHO.. your best bet would be to get it done by a company like shapeways..etc (but thats expensive too)

if you can model it.. than your local makerspace probably has CNS lathe/mills too..

maybe that is a better [place for you to see help/advice?

Even therpf.com is better.. and more of the forum you are looking for. (open for said tech questions)


but hey, I'm not a moderator, and your post is still up/here.. you've been giving advice on where else to look.

good luck.

I am late to this "party", but I WILL reinforce what xl97 has said, as I am a Mod. This Forum is attached to and host by a store.

FenixFire
12-14-2015, 06:07 PM
As for the parts in the store they are very reasonable, much cheaper than one could get the same parts turned and machined from most prototyping houses.

xl97
12-14-2015, 06:41 PM
As for the parts in the store they are very reasonable, much cheaper than one could get the same parts turned and machined from most prototyping houses.

no doubt.

and quality!


and thats (again) thanks to the owner investment. :)

FenixFire
12-14-2015, 08:41 PM
Like I said, its definitely possible, people been doing it increasingly frequently lately. My only concern is hilt durability if not 3d printing in metal...

If that were the case you could buy 3-4 complete builds for the price of one metal-fdm hilt.

FenixFire
12-14-2015, 09:41 PM
well that was kind of a rude way to put it in my opinion...

1: I WILL buy a MHS saber, ASAP
2: Im adept in Solid Works and know how that program works, and therefore can design my own saber quite easy.
3: Im also adept in CNC-machining (the same principle in 3D-printing with G-codes and such) so if I had the possibility I've already done my own parts in aluminium and never searched after a Place like this at all on the internet.
4: I thought that this was an open forum for all lightsaber-lovers, and not just only for shoptalk.

I Think that I know at least 1 or 2 people on this forum that has at least concidered 3D-printing a hilt to at least see the design Before commiting to buy a saber. Now, what I wanted in this thread was to know if there were anybody that could help me a bit to make a good 3D-print and make my Dream of owning a good saber come true: I would STILL have to buy the Electronics from this Place (at least soundboard, blade and a few other small items) if I wouldn't go with HHCLS aproach and solder my own LED-string instead, which wouldnt be a too big of a problem for me, I love to build my own things.

Yours Truly Samuel G
G-code is antiquated when 3d printing. I actually haven't used it or any win cad based software in years. Any decent fdm machine will have the ability to print directly from solid works, pro/e, fusion, or most any other main stream software.

By the way; based on some biomechanics studies of bat and racket swings of the same motion as dueling, the force of impact could exceed 37000 newtons or 8400 lbs of force when full speed dueling. Potentially doubled (2 sabers impacting at equal speed) as that was the average force measured for a single bat/racket swing on ball contact.

samthe0ne
12-15-2015, 01:47 AM
I am late to this "party", but I WILL reinforce what xl97 has said, as I am a Mod. This Forum is attached to and host by a store.

Okey, And Im sorry if I offended you guys with this matter, that was never my meaning. Feel free to delete the thread if you Think that it is too far out of Place.

samthe0ne
12-15-2015, 01:50 AM
no doubt.

and quality!


and thats (again) thanks to the owner investment. :)

Oh, make no mistake I LOVE the quality here!!! And if the market wasnt so small here in Sweden/Scandinavia I would also love to put up a TCSS-shop/manufacture-line here (that would have been very fun) but I guess that it wouldnt be economical for the owners in the headquarters in US.

samthe0ne
12-15-2015, 01:52 AM
G-code is antiquated when 3d printing. I actually haven't used it or any win cad based software in years. Any decent fdm machine will have the ability to print directly from solid works, pro/e, fusion, or most any other main stream software.

By the way; based on some biomechanics studies of bat and racket swings of the same motion as dueling, the force of impact could exceed 37000 newtons or 8400 lbs of force when full speed dueling. Potentially doubled (2 sabers impacting at equal speed) as that was the average force measured for a single bat/racket swing on ball contact.

Yikes... hmm, oh well, right now I dont have anyone to duel with, which makes that problem a bit smaller, but still...

samthe0ne
12-15-2015, 02:11 AM
If that were the case you could buy 3-4 complete builds for the price of one metal-fdm hilt.

Yeah, thats kind of what ive seen in price-pictures too.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/ViewWishlist.aspx?ViewCode=0d5f9eee-7a73-e511-ae2e-525400ecc974
I know there are a lot of items missing on that list, but still, Before I get all the parts to Sweden (if I remember my old Estimates right) im hitting 300 USD, which would be way over my budget if I ordered Everything at once. Not to speak about customs and those other bits and pieces.

samthe0ne
12-15-2015, 02:13 AM
As a product designer with extensive experience in prototyping and 3d printing, coming up on 15 yrs. If the printer is one of the very low-end hobby built systems like most public maker spaces I have seen, I would not attempt a hilt or blade holder. I would only attempted them on something capable of 100 micron layers or better, both for resolution and an increase in strength from my own experiences. I would also stick to printers capable of running true ABS materials over the more common PLA based materials. PLA is biodegradable and will breakdown over time especially with the bacteria and oil transfer from your hands. I have designed several PLA based pens that use that bacteria transfer as the initial phase of decomposing the material. Keep in mind even the manufacturing quality Fortus machines you get roughly 75% of the ABS's shear strength in your parts; so design accordingly. If designing a non-dueling sabre go for it. if looking to actually full speed dual...I would say good-luck.

Ok, thanks!