My First Step Into a Larger World

[Cha-Li Obedi]

Good day all,

After a being a lifelong Star War fan (I made my dad take me to see ANH in the theater between 20 - 30 times) I finally discovered the wonderful world of saber building. After several months of lurking on the boards reading, reading, reading and watching every one of Madcow's videos about a dozen times a piece, I am starting my first build. I am building a shoto style saber for my 3 year old daughter (hey, a padawan has to start somewhere). Listed below are the parts I ordered and should be arriving any day now from TCSS.

I do plan on taking my time with this first build as I have a lot of future projects in mind and want to work on developing my techniques for soldering and acid etching. I plan on providing updates on the build as well as pictures of the final project.

Thanks so much and please feel free to leave any feedback on the parts list.

Parts List:
* MPS Pommel style 4
* MPS Insert style 4
* MPS Clip
* 4" Double female threaded connector
o Machine 16mm AV switch hole - Near end of the 4" Double female threaded connector
* 16mm AV Latching Blue Ring Switch
* Bezel for illuminated switches
* MHS choke style 3 long
* MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 9
o Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) - On blade holder between threaded part and cut out inserts
* 8-32 x .3" blue thumb screw
* LED Trans White Battle blade 1" OD (24 inches)
* 2AA Battery Holder with JST connector
* BuckPuck 1000mA 4-wire
* Rebel Star LED (Blue) & MHSV1 Heatsink Module

[Generic Jedi]

Welcome to the forums!

2 AA batteries will only put out 3 volts, and they don't last very long. The buckpuck needs at least 5 volts. You could use a 7.4 volt rechargeable battery pack. Or 14500 li-ion batteries, which are the same size as AA batteries, so they will fit your AA battery holder, and give you the voltage you'll need. You would also need a charger.

[Cha-Li Obedi]

Thanks so much Generic Jedi. I went with the AA holder vs the AAA holder so I had the option of utilizing li-ion batteries; however, I guess it's no longer an option. I didn't take the additional voltage needed with the BuckPuck. 14500 batteries and a new charger it is.

This is exactly why I'm so excited to be a part of this community.

Thanks again

[Cha-Li Obedi]

As expected the parts arrived and are just beautiful. Almost a shame to do anything to the finish. Here's a quick peek at it without any work. Next step: Acid Etching and practice soldering

12599
12598
12600

[Miraluka]

Good luck with your etching. And welcome.

[MasterStoddard]

Nice looking Saber. Good luck with the etching. Look forward to seeing the end result.

[Cha-Li Obedi]

So, I just had a brief panic attack. I have a 1000mA buck pick; however, do I also need a resistor for the A/V switch?

[JD8a27]

This resistor is for your illuminated switch http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/20mA-DynaOhm-Variable-Resistor-P847.aspx
not so sure about the buck puck though.

[Miraluka]

Yes you still need to resist the switch LED. That LED runs at 20mA, give it 1A and it'll pop like the 4th of July. If you use that dynaohm that JD linked, make sure it goes on the positive lead to the LED, and the - side of the resistor connects to the + side of the LED.

[Cha-Li Obedi]

Thanks so much guys. I just ordered a few DynaOhm variable resistors for this and another build utilizing the same electronics. As soon as I get all the parts together, I'd love a last look see from you all before I start the soldering. I'll also post pictures of the other build as soon as those ordered parts arrive.