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Bookworm
11-10-2015, 01:15 PM
Hallo everyone!
I admit it, I am new here, and I hope you forgive me my question and I haven't over-read something.

After reading the general econo-thread I came up for my desired layout with this wiring:
http://img5.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads/schaltdiagramm3dkgz89yvo.jpg (http://www.fotos-hochladen.net)

I hope I didn't make a calculation-error.
So far everything was clear, until I "unpacked" my board and got something like this:
http://img5.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads/img7160n0a7zbtkwd.jpg (http://www.fotos-hochladen.net)

The saber is the new Ultimate FX Vader (this one: http://www.entertainmentearth.com/images/AUTOIMAGES/HSA0861Blg.jpg ). Which of all these things are the LED- and/or +-contacts? There are just too many of them! And can I simply remove everything else or does it not work then anymore?
"Hit1" in the middle goes to the clash-sensor. How can I keep the thing on, while removing the rest? Or can I simply cut off the LED-strip?


Also does someone know which of the wires is for the "off", "trial" or "on"-version on the saber (and how to wire it to permanent on)?
This is the backside of the main-Board:
http://img5.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads/img6976i1r4d86z9w.jpg (http://www.fotos-hochladen.net) and http://www.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads/img6978whpfj3qmui.jpg (http://www.fotos-hochladen.net)
"TRY" with the yellow wires goes to the switch, green goes to the speaker.

This is the small card, that is placed under the switch for changing on/off/trial-mode:
backside: http://img5.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads/img71618dev6zm25y.jpg (http://www.fotos-hochladen.net)
front: The switch itself is labeled "SW1", VDD goes to the + of the batterie. http://img5.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads/img7165ywxqvjr7nu.jpg (http://www.fotos-hochladen.net)

I hope someone can bring some light into that mess and help me!
Greetings
Bookworm

JakeSoft
11-10-2015, 08:27 PM
You should check out this video:


https://youtu.be/BazhFnV0Fq4

Bookworm
11-10-2015, 09:57 PM
Hi Jake!
Thanks a lot, that should work!
Greetings
Bookworm

Bookworm
12-28-2015, 06:11 AM
Soooo.....
I build my first lightsaber with another eco-board (from the Ani-Saber) and the circuit (as shown above, just with other resistances, I miscalculated...) as well as everything else and it worked like a charm.
Next I tryed it with the upper mentioned Vader-board and it doesn't work. Current goes to the board (so the try-switch is in the right position), however, the board itself does not turn on. I tryed it with the main momentary-switch removed, with only the wires together, but that also do not turn the board on. Is there a way to test, if I fryed the board? What else can I do?

Edit: Found the problem: one of the contacs for the switch was broken :( Had to buy a new soundboard -> all worked well!

Black_Arachnis
03-07-2016, 05:22 PM
Also does someone know which of the wires is for the "off", "trial" or "on"-version on the saber (and how to wire it to permanent on)?
This is the backside of the main-Board:
http://img5.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads/img6976i1r4d86z9w.jpg (http://www.fotos-hochladen.net) and http://www.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads/img6978whpfj3qmui.jpg (http://www.fotos-hochladen.net)
"TRY" with the yellow wires goes to the switch, green goes to the speaker.

This is the small card, that is placed under the switch for changing on/off/trial-mode:
backside: http://img5.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads/img71618dev6zm25y.jpg (http://www.fotos-hochladen.net)
front: The switch itself is labeled "SW1", VDD goes to the + of the batterie. http://img5.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads/img7165ywxqvjr7nu.jpg (http://www.fotos-hochladen.net)

I hope someone can bring some light into that mess and help me!
Greetings
Bookworm


if you wire the White wire (BP23) to the Gray wire (GND). you can bypass the demo switch


[edit note: added pic of how to rewire the board to remove the demo switch]