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View Full Version : Cheapy Kylo Ren Econo Board wiring check



YdurSolrac
10-27-2015, 10:21 AM
Hi everyone, I recently built a lightsaber using a 2010 yoda board and I now have "the bug". I purchased the $29 Hasbro Kylo (Blade Builders) saber and ripped out the board. Unfortunately, the board is about 1.5'' wide so I may have to Macgyver the board in the pommel of my next saber. Can someone help me with this wiring diagram? I want to make sure the wiring is close enough to the other econo board diagrams. 1226812269 thanks in advance.

Kouri
10-27-2015, 03:49 PM
6v sounds like a sure fire way to burn out the board. Previous 4.5v economy boards burnt out at around 5.5 volts. I'd be a bit worried about throwing more than a single lithium ion at a board that originally ran on only 3v.

JakeSoft
10-27-2015, 05:19 PM
Take this for what it's worth, but I'm running the Luke Skywalker version (runs on 4.5 V stock) on 6 volts and it hasn't blown up yet.

YdurSolrac
10-27-2015, 05:22 PM
I'm not too worried about the voltage since the other hasbro diagram thread says 3-6v. Does the diagram look sound though?

EDIT: By the way, the sound is amazing if you give it enough tube to resonate. I think ill invest in a bass speaker for this build.

YdurSolrac
11-03-2015, 06:47 PM
With some help from the ask electronics reddit, I rewired the saber. This time I used an N Mosfet transistor and its working beautifully. I can now light the main LED with the first activation sound and the crossguard LEDs light up with the secondary activation sound. Here is a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVz2Ni6VLo0

The board was wired up to a 28mm bass speaker and it sounds so fantastic. This will all be fit into a Heiland two cell to make a shoto Vader/Kylo hybrid saber. I can post the new wiring diagram if anyone is interested. Thanks for looking!

quietstarr
11-06-2015, 01:36 PM
That's amazing and just the information I'd been looking for. I'd love to get a look at your wiring diagram if that's alright.

YdurSolrac
11-06-2015, 03:21 PM
That's amazing and just the information I'd been looking for. I'd love to get a look at your wiring diagram if that's alright.

Heres the updated diagram:12331
Where it says (Bridge here) thats the place where the main LED pos/neg is. I dropped a bead of solder here and wired to the gate pin. This is the N Mosfet I used from radioshack: https://www.radioshack.com/products/mosfet-transistor?variant=5717613189

also this video may help you out if this doesn't make sense:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVyi7yWuXxs

Jes'Kar Vos
11-08-2015, 04:23 PM
One small question... in the test video you've posted is this small white box left to the soundboard a resistor? If so which one is it? And do you think this led: https://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Power-LEDs-Cree/CREE-XP-Serie/CREE-XP-E2-PC-Amber-auf-Star-Platine-LT-2463_120_138.html will work with this set-up to? I am asking because i didn't see a resistor in your updated diagram. The amber led would be the one for my blade and I probably use the crossguard ones for a illuminated crystal chamber. And what does the indicator mean?

YdurSolrac
11-09-2015, 08:27 AM
One small question... in the test video you've posted is this small white box left to the soundboard a resistor? If so which one is it? And do you think this led: https://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Power-LEDs-Cree/CREE-XP-Serie/CREE-XP-E2-PC-Amber-auf-Star-Platine-LT-2463_120_138.html will work with this set-up to? I am asking because i didn't see a resistor in your updated diagram. The amber led would be the one for my blade and I probably use the crossguard ones for a illuminated crystal chamber. And what does the indicator mean?
Yes, the small white box in the video was a resistor. That one was a 3.9 ohm 5 watt capable resistor. Also the LED you posted will work. Just calculate the proper resistor using the tech data from the site on a resistor calculator. The indicator in my diagram is one of the crossguard LEDs being used on the hilt to "indicate" that the power is on. It's just for asthetic reasons.

Jes'Kar Vos
11-09-2015, 09:19 AM
Thank you for the answer^^ I guess that will help a lot for my sabre. As soon as it is finished I'll post some pics and progress here on the board^^ and if you don't mind I would copy your wire lay-out for my build, because it seems just perfect for what I want to try^^

YdurSolrac
11-09-2015, 09:24 AM
Thank you for the answer^^ I guess that will help a lot for my sabre. As soon as it is finished I'll post some pics and progress here on the board^^ and if you don't mind I would copy your wire lay-out for my build, because it seems just perfect for what I want to try^^

Absolutely! Can't wait to see what you make! I'm getting in the last of my parts today so I'll post soon also.

Jes'Kar Vos
11-09-2015, 04:25 PM
Well thank you then^^ I'd really like to see yours too :D mine can be expected around mid december I guess^^
May the Force be with you

quietstarr
11-13-2015, 01:27 PM
So I JUST lucked out and found this exact Kylo saber at a Bargain Hunt for 8 bucks (along with a bunch of the Target helmets >.> Hello future Revan mod!). Planning on putting all this wonderful info to even further good use. Thanks again for sharing!

YdurSolrac
11-13-2015, 02:22 PM
So I JUST lucked out and found this exact Kylo saber at a Bargain Hunt for 8 bucks (along with a bunch of the Target helmets >.> Hello future Revan mod!). Planning on putting all this wonderful info to even further good use. Thanks again for sharing!

You lucky dog! I'm trying to figure out how to keep the LED on when the flash on clash happens because it flickers off completely and it's annoying. Maybe I can run a wire from the speaker contact to the LED? Anyone have any advice?

Nayanak
11-22-2015, 03:29 PM
to eliminate the flash on clash you just splice a wire connected to the speaker negative to the gate control instead of using the boards led controller, you end up with a nice unstable kind of flicker driven by the speaker, at least thats how it worked on the older boards it should work the same here might, if you leave the cross guard leds where you have them it might also make them flash off on a clash and the blade stay on but ficker harder, which going on the fact that the cross guards are vents for the unstable power of the blade, as it strikes another saber it would be exerting more energy to the contact point and the vents may actually stop venting energy for a moment on a hit, *takes off theory craft hat*

Credit goes to skottsaber. This eliminates the Flash on clash and provides a nice flicker effect.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1237687/TCSS%20Posts/speakersetup.jpg

Wrecker
12-12-2015, 12:26 PM
I'm currently looking into wiring this into an US Renegade without an illuminated switch, but also with the blade flickering as shown by Nayanak. I have zero knowledge on electronics aside from "that looks cool." Would anyone like to help?

CET
12-18-2015, 02:39 PM
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1237687/TCSS%20Posts/speakersetup.jpg

This diagram doesn't make sense to me. There's an LED wire coming off of the board, but it doesn't connect to anything. It's that on purpose? That means the LED power is coming directly from the battery?

Heeltoeshift
12-30-2015, 11:51 AM
Absolutely! Can't wait to see what you make! I'm getting in the last of my parts today so I'll post soon also.


Well thank you then^^ I'd really like to see yours too :D mine can be expected around mid december I guess^^
May the Force be with you

Hey guys; did you finish up your builds? I would be super-interested to see what your finished product looked like as well as the ID of your hilt, as I have heard that this board is fairly wide.

I am looking to potentially do my first build with this in a crossguard saber.

utlonghorns416
12-31-2015, 09:48 PM
Subscribed

soundwave809
01-26-2016, 03:02 PM
Where exactly did you solder the switch on the board because the original switch on the saber was a push button? A picture would be greatly appreciated!

Soulbp
01-31-2016, 02:03 PM
Is the original poster still around? In the diagram you mention a bridge... Were you saying you bridge +/- with a bead?

Jonlo Garoc
02-06-2016, 12:54 PM
I'm a bit confused about the main led leads. Does the (Bridge here) mean the pos/neg leads have been soldered together?

soundwave809
02-06-2016, 02:24 PM
I'm a bit confused about the main led leads. Does the (Bridge here) mean the pos/neg leads have been soldered together?

Yes solder together

YdurSolrac
11-21-2016, 11:54 AM
Hey, sorry for the delay, actually, I put this project down because of how annoying this board is. I have since completed this build after frying two boards with bad soldering. Below are some tips on how to make it work and a revised, tested and working wiring diagram:
14617

tips:
the board is soldered using RoHS non leaded solder so its difficult to use that type of solder when rewiring it because the temperature requirements are high and the board is very fragile so use rosin core 60/40 instead the temperature for this is way lower and allows you to make quick tacks of solder which will be useful in the switch portion. I also used an xacto blade bottom to make sure none of my soldering touched overlapped in the switch portion of the board. Its easy to accidentally bridge the connection and make it very difficult to remove it safely. THIS IS THE MOST DIFFICULT PART.

I used one of the crossguard LED's for the illumination of my AV switch.

For space, I glued the board onto a single AA cage and glued the N MOSFET to the top of the cage as well as I soldered the resistor from the Gate to the Source so that I dont have an extra wire.

The resistor between the Gate and Source pin is to fix a problem I had with the LED remaining on after deactivation. The MOSFET carried a static charge and left the LED on, so the 10k OHM resistor acts as a pulldown resistor and drains the static charge.

If youre smart, maybe you can figure out a way to wire another mosfet into the build so that when the saber clashes, there can be a FoC effect from the speaker wire.

YdurSolrac
11-21-2016, 11:56 AM
see the latest post for a revised diagram

Swiftey90
02-12-2017, 11:56 AM
hi there Thanks for the information all you guys have been posting it's been really helpful for myself
I'm fairly new to blade building and I got the Hasbro Kylo Ren aswell as my first led controller and soundboard to use in my first. I want to wire an extra battery stepping up the voltage input to 4.5v. From what I have read the board will take that. Am I able to wire my led directly to this circuit with only a resistor on the positive directly from the battery and the negative going into the board or do I need that transistor? Many thanks guys