Buryaman
10-14-2015, 10:51 AM
Good day/evening, fellows with the force.
I'll be straight to the point: having seen the diagrams in the 2010 hasbro economy sound card diagrams and the cheap-o setups that run single high power LEDs, I thought for a moment that maybe the TIP42 transistor and the 7805 regulator can be used in such a way that the board won't be fried and the LED blade would light up with the effects.
backstory: I rewired a hasbro mace windu saber (this one has blue leds, momentary switch, built in swing and clash sensor, and has the surprising - surprising at least for me - ability to run LEDs off of its speaker output straight up) with a *shudder* 317 regulator/s and a couple of 100 ohm resistors. I thought the regulator hooked up on the LED output ground would be isolated from the 12 volt circuit.
In short, I ran the card off of a 12 volt lithium polymer battery - not unlike those used for RC machines and airsoft blasters - and proceeded to summon the great big god of gray smoke. :D BLOODY BRILLIANT! :cool:
The LED strip I'm using is a commercially available 12 volt automotive strip light that is glued back to back and diffused with opaque wiring spiral and draws about 1 ampere on a li-po battery.
(don't worry, the lipo is secured inside a shell that fits inside the hilt that cushions hard blows, drops, and violent movements... it's the only power supply that brings out the darkness-smashing brightness of the automotive strip lights)
Now, having seen the diagrams,I have a few questions: would the TIP42C and the 7805 do the job?
I saw that the 7805 would have to dissipate the extra voltage as heat so I fully intend to heatsink the components (including the 42C)...
here's what I need the setup to do: isolate the card at 5 volts, allow full 12 volts to flow through the transistor and power the blade, and not self destruct in the process.
here are some piccies. 1217612177
I'll be straight to the point: having seen the diagrams in the 2010 hasbro economy sound card diagrams and the cheap-o setups that run single high power LEDs, I thought for a moment that maybe the TIP42 transistor and the 7805 regulator can be used in such a way that the board won't be fried and the LED blade would light up with the effects.
backstory: I rewired a hasbro mace windu saber (this one has blue leds, momentary switch, built in swing and clash sensor, and has the surprising - surprising at least for me - ability to run LEDs off of its speaker output straight up) with a *shudder* 317 regulator/s and a couple of 100 ohm resistors. I thought the regulator hooked up on the LED output ground would be isolated from the 12 volt circuit.
In short, I ran the card off of a 12 volt lithium polymer battery - not unlike those used for RC machines and airsoft blasters - and proceeded to summon the great big god of gray smoke. :D BLOODY BRILLIANT! :cool:
The LED strip I'm using is a commercially available 12 volt automotive strip light that is glued back to back and diffused with opaque wiring spiral and draws about 1 ampere on a li-po battery.
(don't worry, the lipo is secured inside a shell that fits inside the hilt that cushions hard blows, drops, and violent movements... it's the only power supply that brings out the darkness-smashing brightness of the automotive strip lights)
Now, having seen the diagrams,I have a few questions: would the TIP42C and the 7805 do the job?
I saw that the 7805 would have to dissipate the extra voltage as heat so I fully intend to heatsink the components (including the 42C)...
here's what I need the setup to do: isolate the card at 5 volts, allow full 12 volts to flow through the transistor and power the blade, and not self destruct in the process.
here are some piccies. 1217612177