first sabre

[craig roberts]

I have been through a list of components and need them reviewing to know if they are compatable and also if i have missed anything.

hilt style 4 with resesed 12mm av switch short, ring momitary blue.
MHSV1 blade holder style 17 , also a blade retention screw for a ressesed hole.
MPS pommel style 6 , MPS clip ,MPS insert style 1.
a rechargeable battery,3.7v li-ion 18650.
hilt electronics, two blue one white cree xp-e2 copper nova, 18 deg tri rebel/cree, cree rebel lense holder star lense , rebel star LED & MHSV1 heat sink module.
star thermal tape pad.
nano biscotte.version 2
MHS speaker mount V4 for 28mm speaker, a premium 28mm speaker
1 .5 ohm 3-5 watt resistor 1 power extendor.
acrlic chassis discs for recharge port s8,switchcraft 2.1mm power jack,kill plug.
2 acrylic chassis disks for nano biscotte 18500/18650 pack s3,chassis disc style 5, brass spacers,2 half inch for recharge port, 2 1"spacers,2 3/4"spacers,2 440 rods.4 4-40 hex nuts.
24 gauge sold by the foot, , black,blue,red,white,yellow,green.brown,grey,orang e,violet.
26 gauge sold by the foot, blue,brown,green,orange,white,yellow.gray,red,blac k.
heat shrink,1/8",1/16",3/32".
3.7v li-ion smart charger with 2.1mm plug.
1" OD 3/4"ID 1/8" walled tran white pollycarbonate tube.
servises. machine recessed 12mm AV switch hole.
drill and tap hole for ressesed blade holder screw

[Greenie]

Hello there, welcome to the forums. Your list is ok but a bit vague and as such I suspect more planning and research may be required and more exact decisions to be made. This is not a hobby to rush blindly into as it can become expensive and frustrating when you don't order the right/compatible stuff.
Still, the Nano Biscotte is considered to be an entry level sound board and a good place to start. It supports FOC and is an excellent bit of kit for the money. For this board, the best battery solution would be a 3.7v Li-Ion 18650. Your LEDs will require resistors, the values of which you will have to calculate with ohms law
You may also require a blade retention screw, pommel insert and clip and possibly numerous other parts depending on your designs

Take your time and MTFBWY

[craig roberts]

thank you, i have made them changes to my list. hopefuly people will keep helping until i have a complete build list.

[craig roberts]

I have amended my build list ,If someone could have a quick look over it to see if it could work. or if i have missed something
ps, sorry ive put this all on general Q&A

[craig roberts]

what is the recharge port called , is it refered to as a 2.1mm power jack?

[darth_chasm]

Yes the recharge port is a 2.1mm power jack. Take a look here regarding chassis construction.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?18383-Video-Basic-Saber-with-Sound-STYLE-2

[craig roberts]

I`ve finished my parts list but ive put it on the wrong page , instead of re writing it could someone take a look and assess it from here.

[Thalan the Exiled]

12208

here is a quick 3D render of your saber design. it has the 12mm recessed switch hole but no blade retention hole. i am addicted to 123D Design. i look thru the forums for things to render. this one gave me a reason to get the Blade holder 17 done for my personal 3D MHS builder. i am getting close to having all the parts done so i can just insert and snap together the pieces and see how they look.

[craig roberts]

good to see a picture of it i could not do that myself ,i would prefer the switch hole on the other side along with the retention screw , how do i explain that when i order it?

[Starwinder]

good to see a picture of it i could not do that myself ,i would prefer the switch hole on the other side along with the retention screw , how do i explain that when i order it?

If you're ordering the drill & tap service then there's a section you have to fill out where you would like the location to be. Also, when checking out, you'll have a chance to add a note about the order and that's where you can request if you'd like parts lined up a certain way.

[craig roberts]

Hilt style 4,
ressesed 12mm ,av switch short , ring momintary blue.
MHS V1 blade holder style 17.
blade retention screw for resesed hole.
MPS pommel style 6,MPS style clip,MPS insert style 1
rechargeble battery,3.7v li-ion 18650.
Hilt electronics ,
2 blue 1white cree xp-e2 copper nova
18 deg tri rebel/cree
cree rebel lense holder star lense.
rebel star LED & MHS V1 heat sink module,
star thermal tape,
nano Biscotte v2,
MHS speaker mount v4,
28mm premium speaker,
1.5 ohm 3-5 watt resistor,
1 power extendor,
Acrylic chassis for recharge port s8,
switchcraft 2.1mm power jack,
kill plug,
2 acrylic chassis discs for nano biscotte v2 18500/18650 pack s3,
MHS speaker mount V5,
brass spacers, 2 half inch, 2 1",2 3/4" ,
2 440 rods,
4 440 nuts,
24 gauge sold by foot, black,blue,red white,yellow,green,brown,gray,orange,violet
26 gauge sold by foot,black,blue,brown,green,grey,orange,purple,red white,yellow,
heat shrink, 1/8", 1/16", 3/32",
1" OD 3/4" ID 1/8" walled tran white pollycarbonate tube,
3.7v li-ion smart charger with 2.1mm plug.
services ,
machine recessed 12mm av switch hole,
drill & tap hole for recessed blade holder screw.

[Coopinator]

So I'm making a lightsaber with a NBv2, using a tri-cree with red/red/white, an illuminated switch, and a power Xtender to use the FoC powered by Panasonic Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 3400mAh battery.

RED as Forward Voltage @1000mA = 2.59v does this mean each red die (there's two) requires this much power or they can be run in parallel?
WHITE as Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.15v

The NBv2 provides 2A to the LEDs, how do you calculate the resistor you need given this information? And can the Red die be overdriven a little to produce more lumens or will my battery die too quickly, or is the battery too weak?

The PowerXtender 2.0 shows Output voltage/current : 12V / 1.5A. Will I need a resistor with this to run my white FoC? Or does it really matter if it only flashes and isn't continuous? And what does it mean when it says "NEW : Now with embedded SMD 2512 resistor footprint. [redacted] Use with 2 watt 2512 thick carbon film resistor."

As you can tell I'm very new to electricity. I can figure out the wiring diagrams by watching youtube videos that Madcow has made since it should be the same, but I'm using different equipment than he did in his video so therein lies my problem with the electricity.

I know this is a lot to ask anyone to answer, but it's a community so I figured I would ask. Please don't feel obligated to answer every single question (or any if you so choose) the information is just very spread out and hard to find and not all of it may be correct and I would hate to destroy a $70 board I waited so long to buy since they are always OoS.

[Greenie]

Hello there, welcome to the party :)
Your two main reds have to be wired in parallel with a resistor on each. To calculate the values you will need to use ohms law, for that your voltage will be the difference between battery V and the forward V of your led (3.7v - 2.59v of a red)
The difference for the white is nominal but a small resistor is considered good practice, for safety. If you fit one in line you can bypass the on board resistor on the PEX. The illuminated switch will require a resistor of high value (85ohms I believe) or a 20mA dynaohm.
I watched and followed Madcow's videos for this set up and even with your 'different equipment' the principals are the same and fairly straight forward
If you haven't yet, you should read the users manual for the NB several times. It contains wiring diagrams and examples of ohms law as well as instruction for configuration of the micro sd

I know I haven't really answered your questions in full but I hope this helps some. I'm sure the experts will add to this
Good luck with your saber. MTFBWY :mrgreen:

[Zacharyah]

Unless you want your innards to fall out the back you're going to want to order a pommel, pommel insert, and pommel retention ring.
I'd also recommend getting a dynaohm resistor for the AV switch LED, and most everyone on the forum would recommend resistoring each blade LED separately.
Also, from your list, I'm not exactly sure how you're planning on putting your chassis together. CD4 has a threaded OD so that you can screw it into the female threads of the main body, but it also has threaded 4-40 holes for the rods. I imagine that your chassis plan goes Speaker Holder>Chassis Disk>Spacer>Recharge Port>Spacer>NB Holder. If that's the case, I'd recommend leaving out the chassis disk altogether and using the MHS speaker mount V5. It locks between the pommel and main body like most of the chassis disks, but it doesn't thread in, so you don't have to worry about your wires getting twisted and untwisted when you take your chassis out of your saber.
Otherwise, from my view, it looks like a fairly complete list.
Edit: I just saw the other thread

[craig roberts]

thanks for looking it over ,cant belive i missed the pommel when putting list down on this page.
? what resistors would i need for the LEDs.
the two blue are going to be wired together in paralell.
I was going to go - speaker holder >chassis disk>acrylic chassis discs for recharge port, will it work?

[Coopinator]

No it helps, my inly Two questions still, how do I make sure my battery can power all of that, and mad cow wired his tri-rebel with one resistor, I should be able to do that with mine right?

[darth_chasm]

The 18650 3.7v LiIon is the battery of choice for your set up so you will be fine.

It is recommended to put a resistor on each LED for people just starting out. It is extra insurance against unwanted/unanticipated problems or equipment damage. Could you use one, technically yes. Should you if you're inexperienced and/or are not extremely comfortable with electronics, no. However, its ultimately up to you on how you want to setup your saber.

I'll leave you with these two points:

Madcow has been doing this for years and is one of the top saber smith's around. In other words, he knows what he's doing.

http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/22291/why-exactly-cant-a-single-resistor-be-used-for-many-parallel-leds

Good luck with your build.

[craig roberts]

when refering to the sabre ,is the back of the sabre were the tallest part of the shroud is?

[darth_chasm]

To "answer" your question regarding resistors from the other thread, this should help.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?17109-Tutorial-FJK-s-quot-Down-and-Dirty-quot-guide-to-Ohm-s-Law

FJK can we get the two threads merged when you get time? Seems a bit redundant.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

If you are going to ask a lot of questions especially revolving around one saber, please keep it to one thread so everyone can follow along.

Threads merged - FJK

[Greenie]

when refering to the sabre ,is the back of the sabre were the tallest part of the shroud is?

What does this mean??

[darth_chasm]

Check out posts 11 and 19. I think 11 was your list before the merge. 19 leads you to how to calculate your resistor needs.

[craig roberts]

sorry if i try to explain, the photo of your lightsabre has a blade retention screw in it, is that side of the sabre refered to as the back of the sabre. just so i can explain what side or placement of the momintary switch and blade retention screw are wanted.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

sorry if i try to explain, the photo of your lightsabre has a blade retention screw in it, is that side of the sabre refered to as the back of the sabre. just so i can explain what side or placement of the momintary switch and blade retention screw are wanted.

I think you are getting your terminology confused. The front and back of the saber are generally considered the emitter area and the pommel area. I think what you want to say is top or bottom. Top is usually the side where the switches (or box) are, and the underside (bottom) is just that, the opposite side.

[craig roberts]

I think you are getting your terminology confused. The front and back of the saber are generally considered the emitter area and the pommel area. I think what you want to say is top or bottom. Top is usually the side where the switches (or box) are, and the underside (bottom) is just that, the opposite side.

I better understand but still not sure as to the side people usually put switches or box on, could you possibly put a simple diagram on , I just wish to make sure the switch is on the cut side of the front ( blade holder) if that helps you understand .

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I better understand but still not sure as to the side people usually put switches or box on, could you possibly put a simple diagram on , I just wish to make sure the switch is on the cut side of the front ( blade holder) if that helps you understand .

Normally what happens is you post a picture of the saber you built from the MHS Builder. if you want something to specifically line up, then when you place your order, you need to email Tim, and specifically go over what you want.

[craig roberts]

thanks for the help MTFBWY

[craig roberts]

Hi to all out there , Wether its someone who does alot of builds or its someone from the custom sabre shop but i need a look to be done at my list of parts on thread 11 , I anctiously would like to know if its worth going ahead to getting it priced and ordered.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

HUH?!?!

I looked over your list and it seems ok to me. Whether it is worth going ahead and doing this or not is entirely up to you. You will likely need some basic tools to built this saber.

You might also want to work on your spelling, it's not always easy to figure out what people are trying to say when they misspell a lot, considering English isn't always the first language of some of the forum members here. ;)

[craig roberts]

HUH?!?!

I looked over your list and it seems ok to me. Whether it is worth going ahead and doing this or not is entirely up to you. You will likely need some basic tools to built this saber.

You might also want to work on your spelling, it's not always easy to figure out what people are trying to say when they misspell a lot, considering English isn't always the first language of some of the forum members here. ;)

Thanks for looking it over, and sorry about the spelling it's the reason I've started an English class recently, I've watched all the tutorials I've had access to about tools and such, if you think the parts list will work and parts are compatible I will go ahead and price it as I'm really looking forward to building.