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View Full Version : Nano Biscotte v2 Wiring Help?



Bwhalen0119
09-17-2015, 01:57 PM
Alright You Saber Masters, I am am trying to build a NBv2 sound saber + FoC + Illuminated AV Swtich and a Custom Tri Cree (W/W/rB) Inside of a MHS V2 Saber...

I thought all my math would work out, but when i power on the saber it begins to repeat Swing sounds...when I am not touching it. Of course I looked this up in the NB Manual and re did my math and resigned to Bring the Drive down in the Config.txt to accommodate for the possible over draw from my Blade LEDs (2 W wired in Parallel) because when the LED is not connected the board runs like a dream.

But no luck. SO I'm guessing I am in need of a re-wire and/or a resistor.
Here is a wiring diagram, Have I royally Messed this up? Should I start from scratch?

11973

Forgetful Jedi Knight
09-17-2015, 02:11 PM
Yes, you need to put a resistor on each of your White LEDs. ;)

ColdVizjerei
09-17-2015, 03:49 PM
Just curious, how do the colors on the blade turn out? It looks like you're using the rB for FoC and the two white dies for the main blade, is that correct?
If so, how does the rB look upon triggering? Is it a very light blue?

Forgetful Jedi Knight
09-17-2015, 04:10 PM
Would probably be a light Blue to a Silvery color.

jt_trouble
09-18-2015, 06:21 AM
Did you fully charge the battery?

Bwhalen0119
09-25-2015, 10:42 PM
Yes, you need to put a resistor on each of your White LEDs. ;)

Thank you so much for getting back to me, FJK. (BTW. Huge Honor your saber work ROCKS!)

I figured that was going to be my issue. Now would you recommend that I undo the Parallel mod that I did to my two White LEDs (like Madcow does in the TCSS "Wiring Multi Die LEDs" video) and instead wire them separately with say a .47ohm .5w Resistor (from TCSS) per each. Or could I get away with leaving them Parallel Bridged and just adding One .47ohm .5w Resistor on the +wire? I ask because, as I am sure you are aware, space is rare inside these hilts.:D


Just curious, how do the colors on the blade turn out? It looks like you're using the rB for FoC and the two white dies for the main blade, is that correct?
If so, how does the rB look upon triggering? Is it a very light blue?

I am Wiring my two Whites as ONE blade. I wanted a really REALLY bright white blade that FoCs a Blue-Silver. Or at least that is the plan. I haven't gotten the Dies to play along due to the lack of Resistance in my White Circuit.


Did you fully charge the battery?


Yes, it is fully charged. And oddly enough when the main Blade LEDs are not connected, the boot/on/off/swing/clash sounds activate Perfectly.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
09-26-2015, 05:41 AM
Thank you so much for getting back to me, FJK. (BTW. Huge Honor your saber work ROCKS!)

I figured that was going to be my issue. Now would you recommend that I undo the Parallel mod that I did to my two White LEDs (like Madcow does in the TCSS "Wiring Multi Die LEDs" video) and instead wire them separately with say a .47ohm .5w Resistor (from TCSS) per each. Or could I get away with leaving them Parallel Bridged and just adding One .47ohm .5w Resistor on the +wire? I ask because, as I am sure you are aware, space is rare inside these hilts.:D

Yes, it is fully charged. And oddly enough when the main Blade LEDs are not connected, the boot/on/off/swing/clash sounds activate Perfectly.

That's not odd, that's what happens when the LEDs are trying to pull too much current through the board. THAT is why I recommend resistors. You should put one on each. You can do it if you try and it shouldn't take up that much extra room.

Bwhalen0119
09-26-2015, 07:10 PM
You got it! Awesome. Thanks FJK. I will keep you informed as to my progress.