View Full Version : Translucent Brass or Copper Examples?

09-15-2015, 08:32 AM
Does anybody have Translucent Brass or Transparent Copper pics?

09-15-2015, 10:53 AM

09-15-2015, 12:29 PM
That's an elegant looking 'weapon'. Nice pc, I like :p

09-16-2015, 08:16 AM
Thanks -
They look great : ) I think I might be sold on brass ; )

09-16-2015, 09:10 AM
Thanks Greenie :)

The lines on the bottom were smoothed with sand blasting before the coating was put on, and it looks pretty good in my opinion. It isn't smooth like the rest of the coated area. I know the pictures aren't the best, but I'd say the shiniest part is a touch brighter than the normal colour you see when holding it. Do you want me to get more pictures tonight? Those were the ones I had on my phone.

09-16-2015, 12:58 PM
If you haven't already shown it here, hell yes! We all like to see what people are building ;)

Generic Jedi
09-16-2015, 02:50 PM
Does the translucent brass powder coat match real brass, like the brass switches?

09-16-2015, 11:56 PM
Do you want me to get more pictures tonight? Those were the ones I had on my phone.

Totally. Always happy to see photos of various powder coatings. I actually have a saber on order with a custom powdercoating job, it's killing me, wondering what it's going to look like. :mrgreen:

09-18-2015, 06:18 AM
Two more...I put my brass-insert pommel beside the powder coating for comparison. It's close, but real brass is a richer, slightly darker colour.11974

This one shows the handle a bit better: 11975

09-18-2015, 11:37 PM
Thanks for the pics :) They are all great :)

09-18-2015, 11:39 PM
Agreed! Oh and cool idea for the notched fluting on your hilt, interesting and practical chamber concept you have there :)

Generic Jedi
09-18-2015, 11:53 PM
Thanks JediCarpet. Nice saber!

11-11-2015, 07:46 AM
Two more...I put my brass-insert pommel beside the powder coating for comparison. It's close, but real brass is a richer, slightly darker colour.11974

This one shows the handle a bit better: 11975
The parts that I got look nothing like yours. I was very disappointed. One of them barely has any color and the other one looks like it hasn't been powder coated at all. The only reason I didn't return them is because I live in Argentina and postage would have cost me as much as the parts.

11-12-2015, 04:54 PM
Has anyone found out what Copper Transparent looks like yet?

11-13-2015, 01:51 PM
I'd also like to see and copper examples. I've got a design plan, but I haven't decide between brass or copper coating. I think some examples would really help.

Ari-Jaq Xulden
11-13-2015, 05:40 PM
Has anyone found out what Copper Transparent looks like yet?

Very difficult color. Took me about 60 attempts to get the color I wanted. Too thick of a coat, cook too long and it looks completely different. From pale fake looking all the way to orange.

11-13-2015, 08:18 PM
Thank! That looks good. I may try that if choke 2 comes back in stock soon.

11-13-2015, 08:21 PM
Nice color!

11-14-2015, 12:13 AM
Wow that's a nice color!

Ari-Jaq Xulden
11-14-2015, 06:14 AM
Lots of failed attempts

Too light. Sticky residue left from improper flow.

Too dark in grooves.

Too thick. Orange IMO.


Bleed over lines during flow. Trans over Black. Trying to cheat. Gross look IMO.

As stated, I went trough much trial and error to achieve the desired appearance. In the end I even settled for a slightly unfinished look, to myself.

Also repeating the process to have other pieces match is equally as difficult as achieving the proper look. Two trans colors next to one another is impossible. Originally I wanted trans copper next to trans gold. Never could get gold right at all. Two tone should be reserved for 1 color next to either black or raw aluminum. Even Clearcoat over trans will not work. Hope that helps.

11-14-2015, 09:04 AM
I don't have all my parts yet, but I'm planning on using a product called rub 'n buff to apply 3 different colors: Autumn Gold (looks like rose gold) Ruby (rich red metallic) and Spanish Copper (looks like the dark chocolate copper, similar to oiled brass). I've seen it used on wood and plastic. It is amazing the way it can turn a nerf gun into steampunk.

11-14-2015, 10:54 AM
I looked up rub n buff and it says that it's wax based. Would that come off with use?

Edit: From an Amazon review

I used this to detail a prop pistol from the video game Halo.

Clean the surface well, or it won't bond well.

You don't need to be generous with this stuff, a little goes a LONG way.

rub it on, let it dry for an hour.

Buff the shine how you want it.

WAIT. WAIT FOR DAYS. DO NOT HANDEL. If you do, you'll notice that the wax will rub off. I got it to not rub off on my pistol after letting it sit in a cool, air conditioned environment for 7 days.


It's been several months since using the product on my prop and its holding up well. The prop went through a few conventions and sweaty hands but has shown no signs of coming off. The material it was bonded to is plastic, smooth cast 300 to be precise. It's worked great. My main suggestions are again, clean the surface, let it dry completely and apply this stuff and work it how you want it. Then, you have to fight the urge to touch, handle, or monkey with it. Seriously, patience is a virtue.

11-16-2015, 06:14 AM
Other suggestions I've seen for using this is to dilute it (it comes in a tube, so I'm assuming it is somewhat paste like) and use a brush to paint it on. Also consider putting a sealer on after it is all set and dry.

01-01-2016, 11:02 AM
Had my first battle with rub n buff. It was difficult to apply to the polished aluminum, but I did get a fairly decent copper coating. It looked a bit like a satin finish. I tried to add a darker Spanish Copper to the grooves on my extension and it just wasn't happening. Pulled out the mineral spirits and cleaned everything off. Still trying to determine what my next step will be.

Update. Next Step appears to be using SurfinChemical to put a patina on the aluminum. I'll mask off the insides of the pieces that have been drilled for switches and mask off the entire outside of the hilt, extension, choke, and tonfa grip. Rubber stoppers will plug up the ends and provide a handle because the dry patina is somewhat easy to brush off when handled. Then I'll take an exacto knife and slit open the grooves on the hilt, grip, extension and choke. A nice 45 Second dunk in the Alukot should leave me with a nice dark patina on the rings, grooves, and other recessed areas. Quickly peel off the outer masking tape and dunk again for 15 seconds should give me a nice bronze finish on all the raised surfaces.

This could take a while to complete as it is taking forever to get the obi-wan extension-choke.