Hasbro "Saber Builder"

[JakeSoft]

Yesterday was Force Friday, so of course I secured one of the new cheapie lightsabers with the intention of ripping it apart to make something cooler. I am referring to the new "Blade Builder" series.

It looks like Hasbro as gone to 16 Ohm speakers. This will make them incompatible with the 8 Ohm speakers that TCSS sells unless you add an 8 Ohm resistor in series. Failure to do so may cause under-loading of the boards amplifier circuit and cause it to break. I'm working a write-up of how to disassemble the new sabers, but for now I thought I'd post this info as a heads-up to the *real* saber builders here.

Update: I finished the tear-down guide. You can view it here:CLICK HERE (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?18512-Hasbro-quot-Blade-Builder-quot-Tear-Down-Guide)

[Kouri]

I'll be taking note of this, as I've been eyeing that $30 Kylo Ren for a custom crossguard build. Don't know how different the internals are compared to the rest of the blade builder series though, considering it only runs on two AAs.

Being a bit new to this, though, might one instead use two 8 Ohm speakers in series, rather than one resistor and one speaker?

[JakeSoft]

Being a bit new to this, though, might one instead use two 8 Ohm speakers in series, rather than one resistor and one speaker?

You might be able to do that in theory. Personally, I'd just use a resistor because I don't want to find space for another speaker in my build.

[JakeSoft]

For anyone interested, here is what the board looks like from the Luke Skywalker version.

http://i59.tinypic.com/4j7psl.jpg

[Halliwax]

The Luke is out???? I thought it didn't come out until November??? Luke ANH that is

[JakeSoft]

The Luke is out???? I thought it didn't come out until November??? Luke ANH that is

Nah, it's the Luke ROTJ version.

[Kouri]

Huh, what're the dimensions of that board?

[JakeSoft]

It's about 1 inch x 1 inch for the board itself. Add a little extra for the cash sensor hanging off the bottom (the green thing). It fit pretty easily into some 1 inch PVC pipe in a recent build.

[JCreazy]

I am assuming it would fit into an MHS1 build? I am holding out and hoping that a yoda lightsaber is released in the blade builder line.

[Miraluka]

I am assuming it would fit into an MHS1 build? I am holding out and hoping that a yoda lightsaber is released in the blade builder line.

Yeah, it would fit.

[JCreazy]

Hey JakeSoft, how is it coming along?

[AnimeMun]

How did you go about disassembly of one of the blade builders sabers? I got the Jedi Master kit and am looking to disassemble it for custom painting and maybe blade replacement.

[Spiritchaser]

I wonder if anyone knows how many amps these chips can drive to the led(s) before smoke comes out?

Could one drive two die of a tri cree? Three?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I wonder if anyone knows how many amps these chips can drive to the led(s) before smoke comes out?

Could one drive two die of a tri cree? Three?

Probably one.

[SithArts]

How are the tutorials coming? I just got my hands on the Vader electronic bladebuilder. I've finally decided to do a saber with sound and going this econo route. If like to use this and upgrade the speaker and do a red led. Any help will be appreciated. Looks like will need to break the plastic hilt apart. There is a ring at the bottom that has two pins it looks like holding it together for security.

[JakeSoft]

How are the tutorials coming? I just got my hands on the Vader electronic bladebuilder. I've finally decided to do a saber with sound and going this econo route. If like to use this and upgrade the speaker and do a red led. Any help will be appreciated. Looks like will need to break the plastic hilt apart. There is a ring at the bottom that has two pins it looks like holding it together for security.

I've got the pictures taken. I just haven't had time to do the writeup. You do end up needing to destroy part of the hilt, at least the way I did it.

[SithArts]

I've got the pictures taken. I just haven't had time to do the writeup. You do end up needing to destroy part of the hilt, at least the way I did it.

Sweet. Do you know if all the new builderblades are the same board and sound? I saw a kylo ren that comes with a two AA battery demo. Sounds cool and darker. It's board I'm guessing may be different than the rest. Can't wait to see how to get this started. Will you by chance write up the how to upgrade the speaker and led?

Also random question time, because when I signed up long ago I saw in the shop but never asked, what is the clash and swing sensors doing available separately? Are they sold to upgrade the Hasbro boards to react better? Or a whole different purpose?

Sorry so many questions but I do appreciate the info

[JakeSoft]

Sweet. Do you know if all the new builderblades are the same board and sound? I saw a kylo ren that comes with a two AA battery demo. Sounds cool and darker. It's board I'm guessing may be different than the rest. Can't wait to see how to get this started. Will you by chance write up the how to upgrade the speaker and led?

Also random question time, because when I signed up long ago I saw in the shop but never asked, what is the clash and swing sensors doing available separately? Are they sold to upgrade the Hasbro boards to react better? Or a whole different purpose?

I assume the Kylo Ren version is different somehow. I have the Luke ROTJ version and it's powered from 3 AAA cells.

[Jester980]

Yesterday was Force Friday, so of course I secured one of the new cheapie lightsabers with the intention of ripping it apart to make something cooler. I am referring to the new "Blade Builder" series.

It looks like Hasbro as gone to 16 Ohm speakers. This will make them incompatible with the 8 Ohm speakers that TCSS sells unless you add an 8 Ohm resistor in series. Failure to do so may cause under-loading of the boards amplifier circuit and cause it to break. I'm working a write-up of how to disassemble the new sabers, but for now I thought I'd post this info as a heads-up to the *real* saber builders here.

Man am I glad someone else thought of this! I am just getting started saber building and I'm trying to tweak an ultrasabers grab bag saber on the cheap as my first foray, so I am really excited to see what you do here.

My biggest concern is how much current the Hasbro chip can handle and what the easiest way to patch the soundcard and speaker into the ultrasaber's existing LED circuit. I've only had a little bit of education in electrical engineering but it looks like I need to figure out how to step down the current from the 4xAA batteries that power the LED to be in line with the 3xAAA batteries that power the Hasbro circuit board. If you have any suggestions on that I am all ears!



How are the tutorials coming? I just got my hands on the Vader electronic bladebuilder. I've finally decided to do a saber with sound and going this econo route. If like to use this and upgrade the speaker and do a red led. Any help will be appreciated. Looks like will need to break the plastic hilt apart. There is a ring at the bottom that has two pins it looks like holding it together for security.

Granted, I'm not a pro at this. This is actually my first post on these forums but here's what happened when I tried. I bought the Vader bladebuilder saber and tried using a fine point phillips screwdriver to push those two pegs out and pop the cap off, but the plastic is so soft that it either mashes the peg down or just destroys the peg entirely. Even slight force on that ring at the bottom started to tear the plastic. I tried a few different things to try to save the plastic hilt, but the points of contact for it seem to be glued together. (The hilt is made of 4-5 major pieces - the end cap, an interior gray spacer in case you want to make a staff with it, two sides of molded plastic for the hilt, and then a blade holder.) With the plastic being so soft, I ended up having to tear the saber hilt apart to get the chip and speaker out.

[Silver Serpent]

My biggest concern is how much current the Hasbro chip can handle and what the easiest way to patch the soundcard and speaker into the ultrasaber's existing LED circuit. I've only had a little bit of education in electrical engineering but it looks like I need to figure out how to step down the current from the 4xAA batteries that power the LED to be in line with the 3xAAA batteries that power the Hasbro circuit board. If you have any suggestions on that I am all ears!



If you still have a Radio Shack in your area, pick up a 5v regulator. That will do exactly what you're asking. If you don't have an RS (or equivalent) nearby, you'll have to look online.

[JakeSoft]

I updated the OP with a link to the tear-down guide.

[YdurSolrac]

I just bought this and took the board out of the saber, theres some pics of it here: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?18709-Cheapy-Kylo-Ren-Econo-Board-wiring-check&p=247320#post247320

[CET]

I JUST got a Target gift card for my birthday the other day. Plus they're on sale for 25% off right now. Plus free shipping on orders over $25. I just ordered 3 of these bad boys for under $50! New saber parts!

[Steli Demar]

Hey JakeSoft ? What type of LED did you use on this build?

[JakeSoft]

Hey JakeSoft ? What type of LED did you use on this build?

It's a red Luxeon Rebel @ 700 ma.

[utlonghorns416]

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[CET]

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[utlonghorns416]

Thanks for the information, im new to the site.

[jomo]

So I want to do this setup with a white Cree xp e2. What kind of resistor would I need?

[Bev]

So, after lurking around and reading about the econo board, I decided to try and make one.

Got a Hasbro ROTJ Luke Skywalker Bladebuilders, tested it, works...ish, and tear it down.

Thing is, it looks different from what I see in the forums.
1549215493

So before I do anything to it, I thought I'd ask for help here, so help?