New Wiring Diagram/Wiring check for RGB PC 3.5 with Recharge and RICE ports

[MontyBMan]

Hey guys, I've been lurking for a while and reading the user manual for the Petit Crouton. I was fortunate to get one of them and before I start soldering everything I was wondering if this looked sound. I've seen similar wiring diagrams throughout the forum and in the user manual, but I wanted to make one that was easier for me to understand and had the wiring for everything I planned to do...

So, does it pass the accuracy test? And the aesthetic test :D

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c99/jiraya99/Pictures/Wiring%20Diagram%20Final.png (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/jiraya99/media/Pictures/Wiring%20Diagram%20Final.png.html)

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

The diagram looks good. However, I am concerned about your battery choice. The 14500 packs do not have the "juice" to really run the Tri-Crees if you plan on doing color mixing and such.

[MontyBMan]

The diagram looks good. However, I am concerned about your battery choice. The 14500 packs do not have the "juice" to really run the Tri-Crees if you plan on doing color mixing and such.

I run into problems with the hilt though... when it comes to storage. I'm essentially upgrading a stunt saber that used to just be an LED, a latching switch, a 4AAA Pack and a resistor.

Do you think it would be better to modify the board to accept 3.7v and use a 18650 3.7V 3400mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery or something similar? using the 7.4v 18650 pack is right out as it's too long.

Edit: I'm assuming that Item # PANBT and PAN18650P are both PCB Protected, just one has a JST Connector on it, correct?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You could either use the 14650 pack OR do the hack. There are pluses and minuses to each.

[MontyBMan]

I can see where you're coming from there. From what I've seen the PC can run reliably using a single cell 3.7v 18650. I'll probably just end up using a 3.7v 18650 or if I can find a way to fit it I'll try the 7.4v 18650 pack.

I can see where using an 800 mA battery would run down quick, since it needs to drive the soundboard as well as three LEDs.

I'll see where my build goes from there and adjust my resistors accordingly... thanks for the help :D

[MontyBMan]

Updated Wiring diagram, should be 100% accurate but please critique if anything ends up sticking out as wrong. I would just edit the first diagram but both have their merits.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c99/jiraya99/Wiring%20Diagram%20Final%20EDIT.png (http://s25.photobucket.com/user/jiraya99/media/Wiring%20Diagram%20Final%20EDIT.png.html)

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Looks Ok. Obviously as we have previously discussed, the resistors will depend on the battery solution you ultimately decide to use. I also take it your switches are not using any type of LED?

[MontyBMan]

Right, the switches are the little momentary technical switches mounted inside the hilt, so no need to resistor those as they don't have any LEDs. Thanks for the feedback FJK :)