Battery Cell Wiring

[CET]

I just read the battery wiring thread, but I'm more confused than when I started.

I have this battery (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Panasonic-Protected-18650-37V-3400mAh-P855.aspx) but I'm completely lost on how to actually wire it up. I've tried soldering, but it just rolls right off. A simple video would be the best solution for me.

I'm also having the same issue with an anti vandal switch. 4 prongs but no instructions on what to do with them. I think instructions on the actual part page on the store would be marvelous!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Why didn't you just buy the Pre-wired version of that battery?

Regarding the switch, you will have to use a bench supply or a 2AA battery pack, and test the lugs to see which two are for the LED, an which 2 are for the "switch" portion. the LED lugs are opposite each other, so if the "north" post id the LED (+), then the led (-) would be at the "south" position, and the switch lugs are "East" and "west" (no polarity).

[Greenie]

Hello CET, that battery ideally requires a battery holder or you can use a pre wired battery (one with JST connector) cut off the JST plug and solder the wires. Both these suggestions are available on the same page you linked
The AV switch will have two pins (opposite) marked + and - these are for the accent led and must have correct polarity and a resistor, (20mA dynaohm in store). The other two (opposite) are for the activation switch and as such have no polarity they just make and break a circuit
As for a video, as always, I would direct you to Madcow's tutorial videos on YouTube. Rob is a legend round here :cool:
Hope this is of some help :mrgreen:


I guess FJK types faster than me :)

[CET]

I didn't get the pre-wired battery because it has 2600 and the one I got has 3400. Maybe I'll rethink that decision.

So, the additional posts on the switch are for an accent LED? Is that what I would use for a crystal chamber?

[darth_chasm]

There is a pre-wired version of the same battery you linked to above here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Panasonic-Li-Ion-18650-37V-3400mAh-PCB-Protected-Rechargeable-Battery-P853.aspx

The accent led Greenie referred to is the light ring in the switch. Many of the switches in the shop have a diagram in the additional images to the right of the main image that show how to identify the led posts. For example, the second image here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/16mm-Anti-Vandal-Short-Momentary-Blue-Dot-Switch-P619.aspx

Hope this helps.

[Greenie]

I didn't get the pre-wired battery because it has 2600 and the one I got has 3400. Maybe I'll rethink that decision.

So, the additional posts on the switch are for an accent LED? Is that what I would use for a crystal chamber?
:mrgreen:
As Darth Chasm says those terminals are for the lighted ring or dot on your AV switch. Acrystal chamber will require another led. Both of these 'accent' LEDs can be connected to a seperate pad on the sound board or in parallel with your main led depending on how you want them to operate. If you are using a Plecterlabs board they all have manuals which contain wiring diagrams and should be read before you pick up a soldering iron

[Zahc Zi Phan]

Another thing... If you are going to use those batteries to make a pack and want to solder directly to the ends, scuff up the ends a little with some sandpaper. It can help the solder to stick. You also need a relatively high temp soldering iron, the kind with a dial that you can turn up. There are videos online that show people soldering to individual cell pads. It's just a little tricky sometimes. Hope that helps!

[Bark]

Also be advised that prolong heat kills the battery's internals, so soldering batteries needs to be done quickly. When possible, I recommend just getting the pre-wired versions and clipping/soldering the wires, not the cells.

[CET]

Thanks guys, I'm going to go with the pre-wired gear. Less hassle, and I can reverse engineer what they did.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Another thing... If you are going to use those batteries to make a pack and want to solder directly to the ends, scuff up the ends a little with some sandpaper. It can help the solder to stick. You also need a relatively high temp soldering iron, the kind with a dial that you can turn up. There are videos online that show people soldering to individual cell pads. It's just a little tricky sometimes. Hope that helps! It's not only tricky, but can be very dangerous if you do not know what you're doing....Li-Ion cells can literally explode in your face if you overheat them while soldering directly to the cell like that. It's always best to buy cells with tabs if you want to make your own pack.