Restarted...

[primi]

I believe this is actually my very first post here. But this project of mine was started years ago. This has to be some kind of a record for slow building a saber!

What I did right after discovering this custom saber building world is I got lucky. I started reading all about it and after 2 weeks I had a good idea about what I need and what I want. It was just a matter of waiting for those elusive CF boards that apparently show up and then disapear faster thay you can blink.

And I got lucky. Days after the decision was made they showed up, version 6.1. So I bought one. Err, no, I bought two. And a Color Xtender. Ordered some parts from the shop as well. And the batteries for 2 sabers.

When I had it all in one place though I started scratching my head. Cram-fu was needed! Lots of it. Maybe not for a seasoned builder but for the first timer it all started looking quite daunting. Plus I did not order any internal parts to hold it all together because my intention was to build my own solution. So the project stalled.

After I think 2 years I decided to at least bench test my CF to hear it for the first time in real life. Then I shelved it again. But now I'm back. No, really, i am!

To help my non existing cram-fu I decided to start by taking some measurements and drawing my parts in 3D. I did manufacture a few parts last year while bench testing to hold the speaker and some discs to go inside. But they were less than perfect. So I'm thinking of printing my own parts. Plus I really need to see the insides and the space I have to play with.

So here it is, nothing special and ultra custom, just a familiar shape from somewhere far, far away.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/sketch11.png

The idea was to have RICE and recharge ports at the back.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/sketch2.png

Followed by a 2W bass speaker (and maybe just maybe a small LED to illuminate the grill), 2x 18650 with CF and PeX on top. And I believe I have a LEDengine that I need to dig specifications of somewhere as well. RGBW most likely. And a lense.

I modelled CF card roughly because I did not want to attack it with callipers for obvious reasons and I suppose it will do just fine like that.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/sketch12.png

[primi]

So now I have to decide what to do with the insides and how to hold it all in place. Plus there is really very little room for the wires to go past the speaker and there are a number of them needed on the other side.

Another solution I need to figure out is do I make that pommel insert fixed or free to turn. I don't think fixed will work as there are lots of wires and lots of turns to get it screwed on.

[primi]

Oops, made a stupid mistake with the CF board, had some details on wrong locations. This is better. And prettier.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/sketch13.png

And it has holes now as well lol.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/sketch14.png

[amwolf]

Ok, I'm going to threadjack you for a question: what software are you using to model with? And the imagery overlay... I ask because my Autocad software is obsolete (which I do my designs with) and I'm looking for something new. I can't generate detail that fine. Or quickly.

I'll now return you to your regularly scheduled thread...

[primi]

It depends. Do you need it for business as well or just for fun? All that you've seen so far can be made with a free one called Sketchup. But I think you have to buy the pro version to get some extra features that are nice to have. But it's still cheap compared to the serious CAD programs for professionals. The prices on those are eye-watering. Think 10k to make the math easy after the purchase and some training.

I modeled the speaker. 2W bass I think it's called.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/sketch8.png

[primi]

I have a custom lens holder solution now, but still not sure wether you want your LED screwed in as far as it would go into the lens or is it better to have them further appart.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/sketch18.png

This is fully screwed in.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/sketch17.png

[primi]

I'd like to have a lever/clamp there but of course it has no function on this particular piece because it's constructed as a 1 piece MHS part. Would be nice to hide a push button under it. I think I saw somebody do it like that already but I don't have a good solution yet.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/sketch24.png

It's not screen acurate but it's not even ment to be. It's longer and doesn't start in the middle.

[primi]

Had to remodel my speaker holder, to get those thicker wires through I pushed the speaker to one side as far as it would go to still maintain correct wall thickness.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/sketch27.png

[Quixotic Jedi]

Interesting speaker holder mod. What are your wall thicknesses at your thinnest and thickest parts?

[primi]

Interesting speaker holder mod. What are your wall thicknesses at your thinnest and thickest parts?

It's 0.7mm on the left where it's the thinnest and then just below 3mm on the right. That allows for a 2.2mm cut for 2 wires and the rest are 1.2 mm. I can add a third thicker slot and I probably will but for charging purposses only I can get away with a thinner wire as well (so only need negative to charging port and then back and I only route a thinner positive for charging, full thickness just to CF).

[hapki]

Thanks for the info on Sketchup. I'll definitely check that out!

[Fixer]

Had to remodel my speaker holder, to get those thicker wires through I pushed the speaker to one side as far as it would go to still maintain correct wall thickness.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/sketch27.png

I really really need this part. I used the pommel insert you have above and designed the saber around the ports being in the pommel. I've had to rethink the design a bit, and it's functional but requires a lot of dis-assembly for recharge and RICE. We need to convince Tim to sell this in the shop.

[primi]

I really really need this part. I used the pommel insert you have above and designed the saber around the ports being in the pommel. I've had to rethink the design a bit, and it's functional but requires a lot of dis-assembly for recharge and RICE. We need to convince Tim to sell this in the shop.

You can have it 3d printed for something like 2 or 3 $. Tooling for injection molding this will cost them at least $1000 from what I know so not sure he'll be interested.

[sgcdialler]

You can have it 3d printed for something like 2 or 3 $. Tooling for injection molding this will cost them at least $1000 from what I know so not sure he'll be interested.

And this is why additive manufacturing/3D printing is here to stay. There are things you can do on a 3D printer that are prohibitive otherwise; I've seen examples of things done with a 3D printed part that you could never do with traditional injection molding or machining.

[primi]

This took a long time to model. And I only have 1 word for it: UGLY, UGLY, UGLY! :D

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/sketch28.png

Lots of truoble I had with this. Change of inside diameter in the middle absolutely murdered me. Because of that I can't make my 2 cells a solid stick now. They have to be flexible so that I can slide them in from the front. And I have less room in the front because of the smaller diameter. Would have been easier the other way around. But I think I have crammed everything in now and there should be enough room for wires and connectors as well.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/sketch29.png

Let's ask for a quote now...

[primi]

Let's ask for a quote now...

....21 euros. That's not that bad. If I got it right the first time. That we do not know.

[Quixotic Jedi]

Lookin' pretty good.

[primi]

....21 euros. That's not that bad. If I got it right the first time. That we do not know.

Nope, made a tiny mistake. CeX was turned wrong so I rotated it so that the wires don't cross unnecessarily. There will be a tiny connector for the speaker, has to be if you want to take it apart without soldering. It really is a tiny one and those wires are 1mm OD and it all looks huge.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/sketch33.png

There will also be a connector for the battery pack at the side. The rest of the wires can be soldered I think.

That's all nice and dandy but there's hardly any room for the switches! SMD ones are the only ones I can perhaps squeeze somewhere. But not sure yet what to do. Somebody from China is swimming with my package towards Europe as we speak. ;) Hundreds of them in a number of different shapes.

[primi]

I'm waiting for a number of different SMD switches. I modeled one of them and hopefully the specs I took from a technical drawing are correct.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/sketch36.jpg

One option would be to use them as a fake clamp triggered aux switch. So I suppose I need some kind of plastic insert for the activation box. Then a hole through the box and a spring loaded plunger style button, long enough to be pressed from the outside and long enough inside to reach the switch. Meditate on this I will. Suggestions welcome of course.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/sketch35.jpg

[primi]

No good solution yet for the buttons. Looks like these 2 side ones will also only be dummys. Don't see any other way to attach them, will just have to be glued in place. Not a fan of that at all. But there's nothing to thread into, just 2 thin sections and both holes would go through MHS threads as well.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/sketch37.jpg

And even if I manage to make room for the right "fake" button to be screwed in place, it's still only a dummy. Hmmm.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I'm waiting for a number of different SMD switches. I modeled one of them and hopefully the specs I took from a technical drawing are correct.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/sketch36.jpg



I'll warn you now that if these are the same ones I have, they are ridiculously tiny.

[primi]

I'll warn you now that if these are the same ones I have, they are ridiculously tiny.

Haha, I know! But I thought they look good so if nothing else perhaps they can end up being a decorative touch. Somewhere. At some point.

Am a bit surprised how strong they seem to be as well. If I ever do a lever activated button I'd still prefer a spring in there to push it away again. But for a membrane button I was a bit surprised how hard you have to press it.

[primi]

Work got in the way but a couple of days ago my buttons arrived. Well, some of them. Some are missing and some others I received 2 bags of. Those guys in China are making lots of mistakes like that lately.

And yes, those brass ones are tiny.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/DSC_0962-s1080.jpg

[Jay-gon Jinn]

What I see many people do for switches on these kinds of sabers is have them underneath the clamp card and actuate them by pressing the card.

[primi]

Hmm yeah, I think I saw something like that at some point somewhere. I was thinking of putting a momentary switch below the clamp so that I could press it with my thumb while in the heat of the battle. I suppose on top of the box could work as well but it's not that handy.

I'm ordering my nylon parts today to take advantage of some promotion they're having. Hilt electronics holder and lens holder. And I think I'll throw in a stainless steel lever as well.

[primi]

And I think I'll throw in a stainless steel lever as well.

Hopefully this will turn out good printed in stainless steel. Without the hole of course, that will have to be bored later.

http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/s57mtp/Saber/sketch38.png