how do you paint a tube perfectly, with just a spray can

[987654321a]

how would you go about painting a sink tube or an MHS section to make it pro looking like do clo's. i know you mask some parts off but gravity ruins all my projects with paint on them. the paint runs down the sides, what paints do you guys suggest i use. also for my airbrush, i need a good air compressor preferably 20-30 psi, and what paint should i get for it? i used acrylic paint and it came with the airbrush and was a perfect paint, but chipped easily, i know not to use enamel in my airbrush because it just is sticky as hell. any suggestions and opinions?

[xwingband]

Lots. Of. Light. Coats.

The key in your post I see is dripping. You almost never want that. Even if it takes ten coats the results will always look better in the end.

I'm not familiar with airbrushes but go epoxy. You may have to mix it to get it, but it's worth it. Or you can just use the epoxy spray cans out there.

[WeirdoTransvestite]

For you, if it looks like enough, you used too much. You should still be able to see what's underneath after the first or second coats.

More paint means longer drying times.

[987654321a]

thx for the replies guys, but can anyone with airbrush experience tell me which paints to buy for it?

[Do-Clo]

The easy way is to go to Lowes and pick up a spray can of appliance epxoy paint, no mixing and no spray gun or airbrush to clean when done.

The big thing is to use thin coats of paint but that has already been said, (it must be important). The instructions on the can will tell you how much time to allow between coats of paint.

[Firebird21]

:roll:


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=563



:wink:

[jjshumpert]

model masters enamels, mixed 40/60 with enamel thinner, 2 coats of cheap sandable primer from walmart, 5 coats of color, and then 2 coats of testors enamel clear coat, and that will last just short of forever... plus model masters has some really awesome colors

[Firebird21]

I have never had very good luck with Testor's paint as far as durability and gloss is concerned, but it's easy to use and damn easy to get.

Good for models, but for something that is handled all the time, it's not that great. Just handling it will lower the gloss and my leave prints.

If you want to use it, let it dry for a couple of days at about 70* to be sure that has time to cure.



The best paint to use is automotive type catalyzed or "activated" paints. (I believe the actual technical term is Acrylic Enamel) Unfortunately it's hard to use without experience and hard to get in small quantities. Fortunately, if the supply store will give you a small amount, they may just give it to you, it's easier than trying to ring up such a small amount.


Of course there's always Powder Coating, but that's $$$ :cry:

[jjshumpert]

the model masters paint is way tougher that the testors, and the testors enamel clearcoat is pretty durable itself, its the only product from testors i use, and ive put it to the test in auto applications and stands up for quite a long time

[james3]

I am convinced that Firebird and Tetmatek can do all my painting.

To heck with it, let an expert do it.

[Do-Clo]

Another option for paint that would hold well for handling would be engine paint that you get from your auto parts store It comes in many colors and is in a spray can for easy use.

[Firebird21]

Spray cans:
Pros:
-Easy to use
-Easy to find
-No special equipment needed
-No training needed (Just read the directions)

Cons:
-Generally not as durable as catalyzed paint
-Easier to chip and peel.
-The spray can does not have a good spray pattern (leads to mottling, dry spray, runs, orange peel...
(Note: Spraying the paint from the can into an Air Brush bottle and using the A/B can give you a much higher quality spray pattern and ultimately a better finish)
-Lower gloss level
-Just about anything that comes out of a spray can, and/or any paint that is not activated or catalyzed is considered low quality. (There are exceptions)


Automotive Paint (Activated or Catalyzed paint systems):
Pros:
-Very high quality (This is professional quality)
-Very durable
-Holds gloss when handled
-Almost limitless colors available
-Manufacturer Technical support
-Minimal chipping

Cons:
-Very hard to use without training or a general knowledge of the particular paint system
-Expensive (Usually because you need to buy 4x more than you need for a saber application, unless you have a really nice salesman who can "hook you up" :wink:)
-Special equipment needed (a Spray Gun or Air Brush and an Air compressor or "Canned Air")
-Can get very messy if you don't know what you're doing
-Equipment cleaning



All paints require the same amount of prep work or they are all useless. If you put the highest quality paint on a surface that is not properly prepped, it may peel off in one big sheet even as soon as the paint is dry to the touch.

70% of a quality paint job is a result of the prep work done before the can of paint is even open!
20% is paint application
10% is the paint you use
(Don’t quote me on the figures… You get the idea!)

I’ve seen an entire car painted with a spray can, or 10, and it looked excellent, and I’ve seen the highest quality paints used so poorly that you’d think they used a paint roller, sneezed on it, wiped their nose on it, brought it to the beach to paint it…. Just down right horrible.

Use what you’re comfortable with, pay the little extra to get the quality your saber needs and deserves, be it Spray Cans or Mixers, and take your time to do it right!!!


Me, Tet, JJ, and whom ever else is out there that has or does paint for a living will be glad to help you if you have a problem.

And please read my tutorial so you know what you’re doing. Linky (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=563)

[987654321a]

i read your tutorial, but wow, very well done.

[MasterStoney]

first off you can't spray a sink tube without sanding or scuffing it first, the paint will not stick. you need to scuff the surface with 600 grit or a red scotch brite pad. one of the paints i would suggest is house of kolor striping enamal, i use this for airbrushing and it is very durable. if you do not want to to clear over this you will have to add a catalyst (hardener). you can buy the HOK striping enamal in 4oz bottles and i think you can get the catalyst also in a small container (not sure i buy mine by the quart). you will also need reducer. or try and take it to a local body shop and see what they would charge you to shoot it. they may do it pretty cheap. or hell, scuff it and puff it (puff it meaning spray can, i call them puff cans)

[987654321a]

thanks for the help stoney, i didnt say i was a complete newb in painting just needed advice to make the paint not run, and i now am following everyones suggestions.

[MasterStoney]

my bad, when you say your paint is dripping off the surface it just sounds like you are.

[987654321a]

well its not dripping off but the problem was that i oversprayed hoping one spray would do

[vortextwist]

well its not dripping off but the problem was that i oversprayed hoping one spray would do

once is never enough.

[987654321a]

uhh thats been explained lol